Mx-400 purchase
08-24-2007, 08:27 PM
#301
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RE: Mx-400 purchase
oh yeah, been nice from Sunday - Wednesday 65-70 deg. days, Thursday - Saturday 85-95 with 70 deg. dewpoint, I hate working outside with the oppressive heat. But it keeps the heli-crack addiction going.
09-07-2007, 12:37 PM
#305
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RE: Mx-400 purchase
ORIGINAL: whstlngdeath
Jeff,
Forget the instructions that Futaba gives you for the gyro. Turn on the AVCS feature and set the gain to 75%. When you are ready, connect the battery and don't touch or move the heli until the gyro initializes, about 5 seconds. Start to spool up the blades and see if the heli wants to start spinning around, or if it generally stays pointed in the direction it started at. If it stays, then you're ok, if it starts to spin uncontrollably, then reverse the direction switch on the gyro. Attempt a hover and see what the nose of the heli wants to do. If the tail starts to wag constantly, lower the gain a little at a time until the wag stops. If the nose starts to drift slowly in either direction, add a little more gain until this stops. The key to the Futaba GY240 gyro is that when you land to make a adustment, and you happen not to disconnect the battery, before you spool up again move the rudder stick left and right fast, several times and let the stick center. This will re-initialize the gyro and center the tail blades. If you don't do this, the gyro will continue to move the tail blades if you move the heli any, and then the blades will not be centered. This will make the heli jump and yaw the next time you spool up. I got in the habit of re-initializing the gyro before every spool up, and it really helps.
This method is for AVCS mode only. I never set up my gyro with the AVCS off, and it works great. Another thing you have to look at is how smooth the tail rotor is. There cannot be any binding, wobble or vibration at all. Look at the tail fins when you are spooled up and check for any vibration. The fins will show this as a high frequency vibration. Make sure the slider at the tail is super smooth. No binding. I lubed the steel tail shaft with lithium grease. Check the tail blades and see if they are turning true. Put the heli on a table, hold a straight object, (I used a CD case), flat on the table next to the blades, and spin the main rotor by hand. Look at the tail blades, and as each one passes by the CD case, (or whatever you use), make sure that each blade is the same distance from the straight edge. If one is closer to the object than the other, then there is a wobble in the tail rotor, or one of the tail blades is warped. Mine had both a warped tail blade, and the center hub of the tail rotor was not drilled straight. It sat on the shaft a little crooked. I ended up replacing the hub, grips and blades with a T-rex unit and carbon blades. Now all of my gyro problems are solved, and I can adjust the gain over 80% and tail locks solid. The tail is the most important part to tuning these small helis, and a little extra time and effort here will pay off with a easier to hover machine. Let me know how it goes...
Jesse
Jeff,
Forget the instructions that Futaba gives you for the gyro. Turn on the AVCS feature and set the gain to 75%. When you are ready, connect the battery and don't touch or move the heli until the gyro initializes, about 5 seconds. Start to spool up the blades and see if the heli wants to start spinning around, or if it generally stays pointed in the direction it started at. If it stays, then you're ok, if it starts to spin uncontrollably, then reverse the direction switch on the gyro. Attempt a hover and see what the nose of the heli wants to do. If the tail starts to wag constantly, lower the gain a little at a time until the wag stops. If the nose starts to drift slowly in either direction, add a little more gain until this stops. The key to the Futaba GY240 gyro is that when you land to make a adustment, and you happen not to disconnect the battery, before you spool up again move the rudder stick left and right fast, several times and let the stick center. This will re-initialize the gyro and center the tail blades. If you don't do this, the gyro will continue to move the tail blades if you move the heli any, and then the blades will not be centered. This will make the heli jump and yaw the next time you spool up. I got in the habit of re-initializing the gyro before every spool up, and it really helps.
This method is for AVCS mode only. I never set up my gyro with the AVCS off, and it works great. Another thing you have to look at is how smooth the tail rotor is. There cannot be any binding, wobble or vibration at all. Look at the tail fins when you are spooled up and check for any vibration. The fins will show this as a high frequency vibration. Make sure the slider at the tail is super smooth. No binding. I lubed the steel tail shaft with lithium grease. Check the tail blades and see if they are turning true. Put the heli on a table, hold a straight object, (I used a CD case), flat on the table next to the blades, and spin the main rotor by hand. Look at the tail blades, and as each one passes by the CD case, (or whatever you use), make sure that each blade is the same distance from the straight edge. If one is closer to the object than the other, then there is a wobble in the tail rotor, or one of the tail blades is warped. Mine had both a warped tail blade, and the center hub of the tail rotor was not drilled straight. It sat on the shaft a little crooked. I ended up replacing the hub, grips and blades with a T-rex unit and carbon blades. Now all of my gyro problems are solved, and I can adjust the gain over 80% and tail locks solid. The tail is the most important part to tuning these small helis, and a little extra time and effort here will pay off with a easier to hover machine. Let me know how it goes...
Jesse
09-07-2007, 06:17 PM
#306
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RE: Mx-400 purchase
Check for slop or binding in the tail unit and pushrod, or damage to the tail servo or gyro mounting. Also, make sure you solve any vibration problems-- they'll keep the gyro from working well and shorten the tail servo life significantly.
ORIGINAL: hobby_man
I had my mx400 flying great after months of learning curve. I smaked the heli on the ground and had to rebuild the head and the tail. I went to tesst fly it after the rebuild. The issuse I am having is WAG, I turned the gain to 10% and it still wags, nothing is binding, will moving the rudder stick real fast left and right help this issue? The heli is searching/wag while in flight, its like the gyro is bouncing back and forth, go left, no go right , back and forh
I had my mx400 flying great after months of learning curve. I smaked the heli on the ground and had to rebuild the head and the tail. I went to tesst fly it after the rebuild. The issuse I am having is WAG, I turned the gain to 10% and it still wags, nothing is binding, will moving the rudder stick real fast left and right help this issue? The heli is searching/wag while in flight, its like the gyro is bouncing back and forth, go left, no go right , back and forh
09-07-2007, 07:45 PM
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RE: Mx-400 purchase
Definitely sounds like it could be a vibration issue. Make sure the main and tail shafts aren't bent, the main and tail blades track properly and are balanced, etc. There's other possible causes, as well, like a damaged servo or binding somewhere. That's always half the battle of a rebuild...getting everything adjusted and working as well as it did before.
09-07-2007, 09:10 PM
#308
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RE: Mx-400 purchase
ORIGINAL: Orion1024
Definitely sounds like it could be a vibration issue. Make sure the main and tail shafts aren't bent, the main and tail blades track properly and are balanced, etc. There's other possible causes, as well, like a damaged servo or binding somewhere. That's always half the battle of a rebuild...getting everything adjusted and working as well as it did before.
Definitely sounds like it could be a vibration issue. Make sure the main and tail shafts aren't bent, the main and tail blades track properly and are balanced, etc. There's other possible causes, as well, like a damaged servo or binding somewhere. That's always half the battle of a rebuild...getting everything adjusted and working as well as it did before.
Your tellin me, (about the setup) I'm about 1 battery cycle away from trashing this whole heli hobby, its really cuting into my airplane flying time.
Its a vibration issue. with out the rotor blades the heli is smoth as silk all the way up to full throttle. Once I put install the blades the problems begin.
I just cant get them balanced, and then one blade is heavier that the other so on run up the heli looks like an out of balance washing machine.
I was into this really heavy 20 years ago, not much has changed for the better In my eyes. The gyro's are better, and everything else is plastic instead of metal.
I found a bag of plastic control rod ends from my GMP King Cobra. They lock onto the ball and NO and I mean NO drag on the metal ball. The rod ends that came with my MX's are POS I cant belive what a POS mold they came from. The bind on every ball on the heli, you have to spend hours reworking them or trash them and use a different system.
check out these control rods
JUST VENTING[X(]
I loaded up the U-Can_Do 46 into the truck for the weekend, I'm going to vent off some frustraions by putting the plane through a few routines.
09-07-2007, 09:56 PM
#309
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RE: Mx-400 purchase
hobby_man,
Yeah, helis really are a full time job setting up and keeping them working properly (well, for me anyway). Then all it takes is one mechanical or electronics failure or mistake flying and you're back to square one. I already had two helis and was trying to decide between the MX or my first plane and went with another heli, but the plane is for sure next. I was looking at the Great Planes Mini Delta for about $100 for everything I need to get it flying. I was thinking it would be a lot easier and cheaper to maintain than a heli and worst case scenario is a whole new airframe for $25. I might pick it up soon. Anyway, some other things to check is that your transverse (feathering) shaft isn't bent and that the rotor head T runs fairly true. The plastic T was one problem I had with my MX right out of the box - it was WAY too far off (It would never run smooth like that). I've seen this problem with the 36 plastic T's, as well. As for the transverse shaft, you can check it by running the blades at a very low headspeed. If the blades don't track properly at a very low RPM then it just won't work right. Also make sure the transverse shaft is tight enough on the O-rings. I had a problem with the low speed tracking and tightening up the feathering shaft solved the problem. For the flybar I make sure it's less than .5mm off and I prefer less than .2mm to .3mm. BTW...those are some nice solid looking linkages on your plane! That's good you have an alternate R/C vehicle to fly when you're having probs with the heli. Being totally grounded is the worst! (especially on those perfect days).
Yeah, helis really are a full time job setting up and keeping them working properly (well, for me anyway). Then all it takes is one mechanical or electronics failure or mistake flying and you're back to square one. I already had two helis and was trying to decide between the MX or my first plane and went with another heli, but the plane is for sure next. I was looking at the Great Planes Mini Delta for about $100 for everything I need to get it flying. I was thinking it would be a lot easier and cheaper to maintain than a heli and worst case scenario is a whole new airframe for $25. I might pick it up soon. Anyway, some other things to check is that your transverse (feathering) shaft isn't bent and that the rotor head T runs fairly true. The plastic T was one problem I had with my MX right out of the box - it was WAY too far off (It would never run smooth like that). I've seen this problem with the 36 plastic T's, as well. As for the transverse shaft, you can check it by running the blades at a very low headspeed. If the blades don't track properly at a very low RPM then it just won't work right. Also make sure the transverse shaft is tight enough on the O-rings. I had a problem with the low speed tracking and tightening up the feathering shaft solved the problem. For the flybar I make sure it's less than .5mm off and I prefer less than .2mm to .3mm. BTW...those are some nice solid looking linkages on your plane! That's good you have an alternate R/C vehicle to fly when you're having probs with the heli. Being totally grounded is the worst! (especially on those perfect days).
09-07-2007, 10:08 PM
#310
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RE: Mx-400 purchase
ORIGINAL: Orion1024
hobby_man,
Yeah, helis really are a full time job setting up and keeping them working properly (well, for me anyway). Then all it takes is one mechanical or electronics failure or mistake flying and you're back to square one. I already had two helis and was trying to decide between the MX or my first plane and went with another heli, but the plane is for sure next. I was looking at the Great Planes Mini Delta for about $100 for everything I need to get it flying. I was thinking it would be a lot easier and cheaper to maintain than a heli and worst case scenario is a whole new airframe for $25. I might pick it up soon. Anyway, some other things to check is that your transverse (feathering) shaft isn't bent and that the rotor head T runs fairly true. The plastic T was one problem I had with my MX right out of the box - it was WAY too far off (It would never run smooth like that). I've seen this problem with the 36 plastic T's, as well. As for the transverse shaft, you can check it by running the blades at a very low headspeed. If the blades don't track properly at a very low RPM then it just won't work right. Also make sure the transverse shaft is tight enough on the O-rings. I had a problem with the low speed tracking and tightening up the feathering shaft solved the problem. For the flybar I make sure it's less than .5mm off and I prefer less than .2mm to .3mm. BTW...those are some nice solid looking linkages on your plane! That's good you have an alternate R/C vehicle to fly when you're having probs with the heli. Being totally grounded is the worst! (especially on those perfect days).
hobby_man,
Yeah, helis really are a full time job setting up and keeping them working properly (well, for me anyway). Then all it takes is one mechanical or electronics failure or mistake flying and you're back to square one. I already had two helis and was trying to decide between the MX or my first plane and went with another heli, but the plane is for sure next. I was looking at the Great Planes Mini Delta for about $100 for everything I need to get it flying. I was thinking it would be a lot easier and cheaper to maintain than a heli and worst case scenario is a whole new airframe for $25. I might pick it up soon. Anyway, some other things to check is that your transverse (feathering) shaft isn't bent and that the rotor head T runs fairly true. The plastic T was one problem I had with my MX right out of the box - it was WAY too far off (It would never run smooth like that). I've seen this problem with the 36 plastic T's, as well. As for the transverse shaft, you can check it by running the blades at a very low headspeed. If the blades don't track properly at a very low RPM then it just won't work right. Also make sure the transverse shaft is tight enough on the O-rings. I had a problem with the low speed tracking and tightening up the feathering shaft solved the problem. For the flybar I make sure it's less than .5mm off and I prefer less than .2mm to .3mm. BTW...those are some nice solid looking linkages on your plane! That's good you have an alternate R/C vehicle to fly when you're having probs with the heli. Being totally grounded is the worst! (especially on those perfect days).
One of my issues is these blades, the fiber and fiber glass blades are junk. (align 325 fiber, some heli mac fober glass blades) they came with the washers and screws. I have a set of wood blades I balanced and covered, they work great.
NOTE: the u-can do is so old the epoxy fillet on the Horizontal stab is yellow LOL[
]
09-08-2007, 12:06 AM
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RE: Mx-400 purchase
ORIGINAL: hobby_man
Thanks for the input, all the shafts are new and I cheked them for run out with and indicator B4 install. I see my linkage on the tail does not bind but it takes a more pressure than it should to move it. Even though I polished the shaft, it shold move easier than it does.
One of my issues is these blades, the fiber and fiber glass blades are junk. (align 325 fiber, some heli mac fober glass blades) they came with the washers and screws. I have a set of wood blades I balanced and covered, they work great.
NOTE: the u-can do is so old the epoxy fillet on the Horizontal stab is yellow LOL[]
Thanks for the input, all the shafts are new and I cheked them for run out with and indicator B4 install. I see my linkage on the tail does not bind but it takes a more pressure than it should to move it. Even though I polished the shaft, it shold move easier than it does.
One of my issues is these blades, the fiber and fiber glass blades are junk. (align 325 fiber, some heli mac fober glass blades) they came with the washers and screws. I have a set of wood blades I balanced and covered, they work great.
NOTE: the u-can do is so old the epoxy fillet on the Horizontal stab is yellow LOL[
]
If you can't get a set of blades to balance/track, then definitely get rid of them. It seems that you can get really good align stuff, and really bad, as well. I have a set of the FG 325 Pros that work great, save for being a little too flexy, but I had a 430XL motor that burned after maybe 10 flights. Don't get me started on their support.
Some sets of blades just will not track, period, and the heli suffers for it. Dunno-- if the problem is the blades, though, try a set of MAH 315s (helihobby has them at http://helihobby.com/html/main_rotor_blades.html, go down to "Tapered 315mm CF MAH"). You still need to take care and balance them well (mass and span both), but they track better than any other blade I've used, and the MX flies beautifully with them. My tips aren't a little off, not less than a mm off, they are exactly in plane and the edge of the rotor disc is razor sharp.
09-08-2007, 08:34 AM
#312
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RE: Mx-400 purchase
RCHover has the cheapest MAH 315s right now and their customer support is 100% better than Helihobby's. I order from both, but only from Helihobby if RCHover is out of stock.
http://www.rchover.com/inc/sdetail/13636
Don't give up on the heli. You do know that the links are one way right? Like osterizer said, if you can't balance them then toss them. The MAHBlades come matched and balanced. I have never rebalanced a set of MAHBlades yet and they track dead on.
I found the 400 much easier to track bladers on than the 450.
BTW, even if the blades are slightly out of balance they will never track.
http://www.rchover.com/inc/sdetail/13636
Don't give up on the heli. You do know that the links are one way right? Like osterizer said, if you can't balance them then toss them. The MAHBlades come matched and balanced. I have never rebalanced a set of MAHBlades yet and they track dead on.
I found the 400 much easier to track bladers on than the 450.
BTW, even if the blades are slightly out of balance they will never track.
08-18-2008, 11:17 AM
#315
RE: Mx-400 purchase
Well, I have been outa the RC heli hobby for about 8 months and decided to come back after tons of upgrades and misfortunes to my MX-400. Here it is sitting. I got the bug again. Have hovered it once or twice.
I puffed both the DN batteries but probably mentioned that before in some earlier post. This was due to the stock motor and Speed control.
I am looking to purchase this config now to upgrade.
http://www.advantagehobby.com/produc...cat=351&page=1
Will this get hot or will the 35 amp be proficient for the batteries. I see no Heat sink on it so makes me wonder.
Alot of you suggested the CC, pheonix 35 amp. Maybe Ill go that route. Stick with the align motor listed though.
I need to know what the proper gear, like a 11t, 12t or 13t would be for the setup.
My battery of choice will be the DN's again as I was stupid the 1st time and destroyed them due to overheating with my setup. They have newer series out there now in the DN's and I already Have the DN Balancer charger but it works with the Thunder power charger I have as well.
http://www.xushobby.com/servlet/Detail?no=261
Frustruating as it is, I really loved dinking around with it, especially since I got to the point of Rolls and then stopped after the crash. I have also now scene that the MX 400 is Obsolete and limited amount of companies have parts.
Should I bother with it risking more damage or just buy as many parts now to put in the box for the inevitable later on. I can bite the bullet and get a trex from my brother in law, but its an older version but still acessible in parts.
Tail config will be changed over to the Align if that is the case and I still need to upgrade the main and tails to Carbon. Looking at around 350.00 to get it to flying specs that will be sufficient. But The electronics and batteries are a necessity for any heli purchase.
I had to buy a new Gyro as the other one was damged in the crash and I didnt trust it, Need to send in to be repaired.
Anyway, I have appreciated all of the comments and suggestions in the past and look forward to hearing from you all again. Hows your MX coming?
I puffed both the DN batteries but probably mentioned that before in some earlier post. This was due to the stock motor and Speed control.
I am looking to purchase this config now to upgrade.
http://www.advantagehobby.com/produc...cat=351&page=1
Will this get hot or will the 35 amp be proficient for the batteries. I see no Heat sink on it so makes me wonder.
Alot of you suggested the CC, pheonix 35 amp. Maybe Ill go that route. Stick with the align motor listed though.
I need to know what the proper gear, like a 11t, 12t or 13t would be for the setup.
My battery of choice will be the DN's again as I was stupid the 1st time and destroyed them due to overheating with my setup. They have newer series out there now in the DN's and I already Have the DN Balancer charger but it works with the Thunder power charger I have as well.
http://www.xushobby.com/servlet/Detail?no=261
Frustruating as it is, I really loved dinking around with it, especially since I got to the point of Rolls and then stopped after the crash. I have also now scene that the MX 400 is Obsolete and limited amount of companies have parts.
Should I bother with it risking more damage or just buy as many parts now to put in the box for the inevitable later on. I can bite the bullet and get a trex from my brother in law, but its an older version but still acessible in parts.
Tail config will be changed over to the Align if that is the case and I still need to upgrade the main and tails to Carbon. Looking at around 350.00 to get it to flying specs that will be sufficient. But The electronics and batteries are a necessity for any heli purchase.
I had to buy a new Gyro as the other one was damged in the crash and I didnt trust it, Need to send in to be repaired.
Anyway, I have appreciated all of the comments and suggestions in the past and look forward to hearing from you all again. Hows your MX coming?
08-18-2008, 04:34 PM
#317
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RE: Mx-400 purchase
I'm personally not enthralled by Align electricals, but a lot of people have used those parts and gotten good service from them. The 430L and 35A ESC should be plenty. That's not much of a discount, though, for a package deal- at those prices you have a lot of choices available.
08-18-2008, 05:54 PM
#318
RE: Mx-400 purchase
Thanks for the responses, I was surfing and came across this company.Have not heard of them but the Speed control looks promising.
http://www.innov8tivedesigns.com/Sco..._jan21_002.htm
They also couple with there own series of Brushless motors.
Dealer http://www.innov8tivedesigns.com/index.php?cPath=22_24 for them
Any word on them?
@Red7fifty - I plan too
Just want to make sure the electronics are up too par this time. 100 bucks down the tube on batteries really was a bummer. I am not doing that again..
BTW: I am running the Helimax 2580KV and 25 amp SPC so you know anything ....would be an upgrade..
I want electronics that will last. When I crash this heli again and , I know I will. The electronics will go to the new T rex or whatever comes next..
http://www.innov8tivedesigns.com/Sco..._jan21_002.htm
They also couple with there own series of Brushless motors.
Dealer http://www.innov8tivedesigns.com/index.php?cPath=22_24 for them
Any word on them?
@Red7fifty - I plan too
Just want to make sure the electronics are up too par this time. 100 bucks down the tube on batteries really was a bummer. I am not doing that again..BTW: I am running the Helimax 2580KV and 25 amp SPC so you know anything ....would be an upgrade..
I want electronics that will last. When I crash this heli again and , I know I will. The electronics will go to the new T rex or whatever comes next..
08-18-2008, 06:28 PM
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RE: Mx-400 purchase
The Scorpion motors are excellent, though they do need maintenance (oiling the bearings periodically). I have a JustGoFly on my MX450 that is also a good motor for it.
08-18-2008, 06:48 PM
#320
RE: Mx-400 purchase
Holy Mackeral Osterizer, Just went and looked at the JustgoFly - Saw the 450TH and watched the videos with that motor. It screams. Stating a 13t pinion to keep it at 2700. Ill need the Carbons before I put that on. Great Price too. Might be the way to go on the motor. Different motor shaft size though as the pinions I have are the smaller version.
Tell me if I am correct here. Larger Pinion equals Higher Head speed..RPMS and smaller Vise versa.
went back ...Think the video was the 500th, not the 450
Tell me if I am correct here. Larger Pinion equals Higher Head speed..RPMS and smaller Vise versa.
went back ...Think the video was the 500th, not the 450
08-18-2008, 07:07 PM
#321
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RE: Mx-400 purchase
Hello, jw637362,
That's a great looking heli in that picture you posted!
I've been working on my MX400 for a while and took it out this past Saturday.
I had that "why does he spin left??" issue that was discussed earlier and did the gyro reverse thing and it fixed it.
Some of those excellent red anodized parts on your heliI've seen beforeothers I haven't. Could you say where you got the upgraded
red items? They look fantastic.
Great job and thanks, guys for the helpful tips. I'll continue to read and learn.
Cheers,
Dave
That's a great looking heli in that picture you posted!
I've been working on my MX400 for a while and took it out this past Saturday.
I had that "why does he spin left??" issue that was discussed earlier and did the gyro reverse thing and it fixed it.
Some of those excellent red anodized parts on your heliI've seen beforeothers I haven't. Could you say where you got the upgraded
red items? They look fantastic.
Great job and thanks, guys for the helpful tips. I'll continue to read and learn.
Cheers,
Dave
08-18-2008, 07:20 PM
#322
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RE: Mx-400 purchase
Ha, nah, the pinion isn't that far off. I was probably using an 11 or 12T. Yes, lower pinion tooth count = lower head speed. The 450 and 500 are both good motors; the 500 has a bit more power, but is still pretty efficient, whereas the 450 is a bit more efficient but less powerful. Unless you're flying it hard you'd never notice the difference, and the 450TH on 3S packs and a 12T pinion would give you about 2300 RPM- no carbons required . The 3.17mm shaft is very common in 450-size helis, so you can get pinions everywhere for it.
. The 3.17mm shaft is very common in 450-size helis, so you can get pinions everywhere for it.
ORIGINAL: jw637362
Holy Mackeral Osterizer, Just went and looked at the JustgoFly - Saw the 450TH and watched the videos with that motor. It screams. Stating a 13t pinion to keep it at 2700. Ill need the Carbons before I put that on. Great Price too. Might be the way to go on the motor. Different motor shaft size though as the pinions I have are the smaller version.
Tell me if I am correct here. Larger Pinion equals Higher Head speed..RPMS and smaller Vise versa.
went back ...Think the video was the 500th, not the 450
Holy Mackeral Osterizer, Just went and looked at the JustgoFly - Saw the 450TH and watched the videos with that motor. It screams. Stating a 13t pinion to keep it at 2700. Ill need the Carbons before I put that on. Great Price too. Might be the way to go on the motor. Different motor shaft size though as the pinions I have are the smaller version.
Tell me if I am correct here. Larger Pinion equals Higher Head speed..RPMS and smaller Vise versa.
went back ...Think the video was the 500th, not the 450
08-18-2008, 08:24 PM
#323
RE: Mx-400 purchase
Well then I got the motor covered. Purchasing the 450th Justgofly. Thanks for that tip.
The speed control is next. CC pheonix or the Scorpion, will read reviews on the scorpion some more. Says it has a "Soft Brake" but not a soft start.... Same thing?
@ S_Dave - Thankyou for the compliment. This heli has been a project. The initial Picture I posted of it seen below was prior to the first crash after boom strike during a loop, the other is after complete rebuild.
To answer you questions on the Red anodized stuff. Found it all over the internet what my LHS did not have. Basically the MX400 is now the MX450 as far as the head is concerned only mech version , not ccpm. I started out with just the center bell aluminum and rebuilt it as I went. You can find the parts mainly at these places, but you can find them anywhere really on the net.
I put the MX450 Canopy on it. Fiberglass version.
Not sure what version you have of the MX 400 but Ill tell you now, If you are using the Helimax 2580KV and the 25Amp Helimax Speedcontrol... CHange them out soon. Drwas to many amps and will fry your batteries. That is the stage I am in now.
Upteen Posts here from the Pros on it and I read everyone of them and still Puffed my Batteries Live and Learn.
But other than that. Love the MX400 Heli, Fun to fly and it is My 1st CP heli. I taught myself to fly with it.
Keep in Mind that this heli, MX400 is a rebadged - X400 that comes from Overseas and sold under Helimax as the MX' SO you can look up parts for the X400 as well.
Thanks again
Tower Hobbies
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...00&S2=&S3=&S4=
GrandRC
http://www.grandrc.com/x_400_mod_parts
Helimax
www.helimax-rc.com
The speed control is next. CC pheonix or the Scorpion, will read reviews on the scorpion some more. Says it has a "Soft Brake" but not a soft start.... Same thing?
@ S_Dave - Thankyou for the compliment. This heli has been a project. The initial Picture I posted of it seen below was prior to the first crash after boom strike during a loop, the other is after complete rebuild.
To answer you questions on the Red anodized stuff. Found it all over the internet what my LHS did not have. Basically the MX400 is now the MX450 as far as the head is concerned only mech version , not ccpm. I started out with just the center bell aluminum and rebuilt it as I went. You can find the parts mainly at these places, but you can find them anywhere really on the net.
I put the MX450 Canopy on it. Fiberglass version.
Not sure what version you have of the MX 400 but Ill tell you now, If you are using the Helimax 2580KV and the 25Amp Helimax Speedcontrol... CHange them out soon. Drwas to many amps and will fry your batteries. That is the stage I am in now.
Upteen Posts here from the Pros on it and I read everyone of them and still Puffed my Batteries
Live and Learn.But other than that. Love the MX400 Heli, Fun to fly and it is My 1st CP heli. I taught myself to fly with it.
Keep in Mind that this heli, MX400 is a rebadged - X400 that comes from Overseas and sold under Helimax as the MX' SO you can look up parts for the X400 as well.
Thanks again
Tower Hobbies
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...00&S2=&S3=&S4=
GrandRC
http://www.grandrc.com/x_400_mod_parts
Helimax
www.helimax-rc.com
08-18-2008, 09:07 PM
#324
Senior Member
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Location: Sykesville,
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RE: Mx-400 purchase
The Scorpion's soft start feature is the acceleration delay. It looks from the docs for the Commander that the max spin up time is 1 second, which would be a bit hard for me. I like the Phoenix, what can I say? The Jeti Spin 33 is also good in this size heli, but it's more complicated, and I had one burn up on me, which has never happened with the Castles.
08-19-2008, 10:22 PM
#325
RE: Mx-400 purchase
Go here......http://www.arktaiwan.com.tw/
Check out the Upgrade parts for the Ark 400. Pay specific attention to the New Tail Rotor Assembly.
Part #'s
ARK 245 Tail Slider
ARK 246 Full Tail Assy
HUGE improvement made here. Better slider and a more fluid motion. Less chance to bind. I just got an email back from them and its 14.00 USD for shipping.
ARK 242. Red aluminum Standoffs
ARK 311 Rotor Head Assy - They actually went to the standard system of utilizing the ALuminum Stabilizer control arms. As in the Other line of Helis we wont mention.
4002-215, Stainless Skid Set. No more mods to trex version..No more broken plastic. I am glad to see that they are improving the MX400 even if it is in the X400 name.
Check out the Upgrade parts for the Ark 400. Pay specific attention to the New Tail Rotor Assembly.
Part #'s
ARK 245 Tail Slider
ARK 246 Full Tail Assy
HUGE improvement made here. Better slider and a more fluid motion. Less chance to bind. I just got an email back from them and its 14.00 USD for shipping.
ARK 242. Red aluminum Standoffs
ARK 311 Rotor Head Assy - They actually went to the standard system of utilizing the ALuminum Stabilizer control arms. As in the Other line of Helis we wont mention.
4002-215, Stainless Skid Set. No more mods to trex version..No more broken plastic. I am glad to see that they are improving the MX400 even if it is in the X400 name.
