RE: axe cp thread
 

So are the Carbon Blades worth the money on the AXE CP? Most of my damage on my wood blades are from tip strikes, you know from getting too close to walls, broom handles, trash cans, etc....

RE: axe cp thread
 

Just got my Axe Cp yesterday I have to say that I am plesantly supprised at the stability of this rigid heli. It wants to keep pulling to the right. I know this is the nature of scale helis because of the torque of the blades. Is there really any way to counter act this?

Any advice on learning to fly would be greatly appreciated.


If no one has realized I just have to put out a warning. The blades hurt when spinning at half throttle.

RE: axe cp thread
 

Hey r/cheliman, does it pull to the right while hovering? If it is, and the trim tab does not take it out you might need to adjust your gyro gain. Mine will pull around on the ground until I get it in the air and then it will hold the tail pretty good.

RE: axe cp thread
 

It pulls mostly on the ground but when its in the air it still leans but significantly less. Do you know which way to turn the the gyro nobs. I am new to this and don't really want to have to sit around and correct my own stupid misakes.[:-]

RE: axe cp thread
 

Have you tried to adjust the trim tabs on the radio?

RE: axe cp thread
 

Yes I have the trim set to counter act it but they are almost all the way to the side and it is more responsive to one input than the other. I know adjusting the gyro will let me center out the tabs but I am not sure which way to turn the nobs.

RE: axe cp thread
 

RC heliman [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5303920]here's a link[/link] to the way I adjusted my 3-in-1 board. BTW my adjustments were way off if yours are close it may be better to use small adjustments.

As for advice on flying. Helis are unique it one very important respect. The same surface (rotor blades) provides both lift and thrust. With a heli cyclic input requires adjustment of the throttle and tail rotor at the same time. When you fly in a horizontal direction (cyclic input) your taking some of the heli's vertical lift and turning it into horizontal thrust. This means the heli will drop so you have to add throttle to maintain altitude, and because your adding throttle you need to input some right rudder to counteract the added torque. This takes a while to master, but knowing that everything is related may help. Also be aware of your cyclic movement. Use small inputs. If the heli starts to slide sideways on the ground throttle down let it settle and try again. Always focus on the nose of the heli to lessen rudder confusion. Lastly I haven't read it myself, but I've heard Radd's school of flight is a wealth of info.

Good Luck

RE: axe cp thread
 

Thanks for the advice.

I have realfight G3.5 and have read through Radd's vertical floght school. I have also done a lot of research of learning so that I wouldn't rebuy my heli in spare parts.

RE: axe cp thread
 

Whoops, lol.:D

RE: axe cp thread
 

Messed around with the gyro this morning and was able to get as close to perfect as I think I can.

Just finished flying and got a little to close to the frig. [:o] Ruined the trailling edge of the blade. Still flies but with a little vibration. Is this normal for it to keep flying?


Well thanks for the advice and Safe Flying. [8D]

RE: axe cp thread
 

I picked up my AxeCp about two weeks ago, and, after a few test hovers, managed to break one of the blade grips. I figured not a big deal, I ordered a bunch of parts and a new set of main blades just in case.

However, now that I have the blades remounted, I can't get the heli off the ground. I'm not really sure what to do next. I've contacted Heli-Max support, and they suggested adjusting the main blade linkages in and out until you achieve lift at teh least possible throttle. I have been going back and fourth adjusting the linkages and ended up snapping one of the ball links off the OTHER blade grip. Grr. Talk about frustrating. I have now, to the best of my ability, repaired and reassembled the whole mechanical assembly (I believe they call this the 'Head').

I only seem to get lift, which, for the sake of testing, is my copter restrained to the ground with less than an inch of play, when I flip the idle up at half throttle. Apparently the pitch then changes, and the copter wants to take off. This of course is infeasible, as I don't even know how to hover sucessfully yet.

I've been told that a pitch gauge is the next step in my repair process, but they're like 50$ for the cheap ones. I realize that repairing it is not going to be cheap in general, but is there anything I can do right now to expidite or properly repair / adjust the main rotor assembly so that I can achieve proper lift? I suppose that I can go and strip down teh whole mechanical assembly and replace almost every part on it, but I believe the worst that really happened in my first crash is the grip getting broken, and MAYBE the flybar getting lightly bent.

If anyone has ideas that might help, I'd appreciate them. TIA!

--Si

RE: axe cp thread
 

unplug the motor and turn on the tx then plug in the batt. with the motor unpluged the blades won't spin. But by moving the throttle up and down that will change the pitch in the blades. that way you can see where your pitch is. You migth want to unplug the tail motor too. if the picth isn't increasing as you increase the throttle then there is your problem. Now when you click the idle up switch, the motor would go to full and the throttle only controls the picth in the blades.

Sounds like something along those lines to me.

Go to your LHS and ask them to us a pitch guage on it or somebody you know that might fly heli's

RE: axe cp thread
 

It might fly but viberation will kill a heli. Every see the Myth busters show about helis and out of balance. they killed a Century Hughes 500 5 Blade about $2000.00

They put it in a vise and added weight to one blade. spun it up and increased the throttle and it killed itself. Right there in the vise! Including a boom strike and complete distruction. It killed me to watch them destroy it. Then Grant says "Thats why we can't own nice things"

Plus it makes your screws lose. lol[8D]

RE: axe cp thread
 

strtykrincognito I think you may have the blade grips flipped. The ball-link connections on the blade grips should be on the same side as the trailing edge of the blades. Also you can't go by the manual. It's backwards in the diagram.

RE: axe cp thread
 

Also it might be a good idea to check your swash plate and make sure it hasn't seperated. If it has that's all I do is snap it back together.

RE: axe cp thread
 

Yeah either your blade grips are upside down or your blades are on backwards. Spin up is clockwise and trailing edge should be to your right if your looking at the gyro adjustment side of the heli with the blade pointed at you. The trailing edge is the thin side of the blade just incase you didn't know. :)

RE: axe cp thread
 

The...documentation...is...BACKWARDS?!?!?! #$%^&*@. How do they get away with this!?!? Well, yes, then they are backwards! [:@] I cannot put into words the anger I feel right now. Now I get to sit at work for the next eight hours fuming about how I've spent several days trying to fly a darn copter that I reassembled wrong. I suppose live and learn, but come on?!?

Oh, and Rotor13B, thanks for the tip, but at least some basics I know. :) I have flown fixed-wing 'foamies' before.

The tips on pitch adjustment with the motor disabled I will most certianly try tonight. I'll let you folks know the verdict later.

Thank you very much for your help.

RE: axe cp thread
 

Just unplug the red or black wire to the motor so it won't run don't disassemble the motor
Chaseman81

RE: axe cp thread
 

I was just making sure. Sometimes the most obvious thing is overlooked. ;)

RE: axe cp thread
 

I really want to throw my AR6000 receiver (my LHS just got them in today, FINALLY) into my new AXE CP.

It looks like simply a matter of removing the existing receiver and installing the AR6000.

Can someone confirm, I'd like to be sure before I go removing the analog stuff.

Thanks!

RE: axe cp thread
 

I went ahead and installed the AR6000 into the AXE.

Here are the connections:

1. BAT port - not connected
2. THR - connected to ESC/Gyro unit
3. AILE - connected to Right Rear Servo
4. ELE - connected to Front Center Servo
5. RUD - Connected only to single Orange Wire going to ESC
6. GER - not connected
7. AUX - connected to Left Rear Servo

Page 90 of the DX6 manual was key to figuring this out. I just enabled CCPM and now everthing is moving the right direction for any given stick input.

Now, I just need to fine tune to a point where she might be able to hover decently. I will anchor the aircraft down and observe the behavior for different throttle settings. I now need to figure out the Idle Up mode versus Normal mode of operation...

RE: axe cp thread
 

If you go over to [link]http://www.helifreak.com[/link] and go to Finless tech room and download CCMP part one and two. I know the set up is for a trex but it should be able to help you out with leveling and CCMP interactions. Also download the throttles and curves video.

RE: axe cp thread
 

Thanks for the tip, I will check that out. Meanwhile...

GOURDS!@!!

This was really a mind bender... almost as tough as figuring out Flaperons on my favorite plank...

Ok, they way I see it is you have to assign the Flight Mode switch to the two main pitch curves and throttle curves.

Now then, the default is crazy-aggressive-3d-stunt mode. This is based purely on just looking at the servos move as I play with the radio.

So, I let the "Stunt" mode leave all that be. Fine. The switch should be "UP" for this mode. Ok, got it.

Now, when I flip the switch "DOWN" I want a neutral, flat pitch when the stick is all the way down. Correction, maybe a slight negative pitch? And, of course, throttle should be at ZERO = motor OFF.

So, I think a neutral, flat pitch is right around 50%, right? Full negative pitch seems to be 0%. Full positive pitch is very steep at 100%.

At Mid-stick, I want maybe 75%, and I guess for now 100% at full up stick. I'll never hit that as I'm learning, but there it is.

So, here it what I think it should be:

PLN = 50% (Neutral, flat pitch)
P2N = 75%
PHN = 100%

TLN = 0%
T2N = 50%
THN = 100% (This Throttle curve is the default anyway)

So far, so ok I think.

Now for the other switch, upper right, which I guess will be the "Throttle Hold Switch".

My guess is, that when the switch is DOWN, all is normal, but flipping this switch "UP" is a safety feature - it sets a neutral pitch and forces throttle to ZERO. Seems logical.

So then,

PLH = 50%
P2H = 50%
PHH = 50%

Right? and HLD = 0% which is throttle off.

For the "Stunt Mode", its like this when the Flight Mode switch is "UP" AND the Throttle Hold switch is "DOWN":

PLS = 0% (Full negative pitch when stick is all the way down)
P2S = 50% (Neutral pitch at mid-stick)
P2H = 100% (Full positive pitch at full up stick)

TLS = 100% (Stunt Throttle setting at full down-stick)
T2S = 80% (I'm guessing here about Stunt Throttle setting at mid-stick)
(The Full Up Stick setting for Stunt Throttle is assumed to be 100% by the radio)

I am now getting close to another live bench test, but already I can see that left/right cyclic movement is not balanced.

More as it develops...

RE: axe cp thread
 

YEs! Very helpful, that video! Mostly, my self taught figuring things out was pretty close. This video is for DX7 and he says he'll make a video for DX6 later. Cool.

A lot of the information carried over to DX6. My only glaring discrepancy is the Pitch Curve in Throttle Hold mode. He says it should be linear from full negative to full positive pitch. Hmm, I guess its because maybe you are flying and accidentally hit the Throttle Hold switch?

Anyways, thanks for that pointer - I hope he does a DX6 video soon. Time for another anchored bench test! [>:]

RE: axe cp thread
 

I did a bunch more tweaking. Looks pretty good, but I need more rotor speed at about 70% of full up stick, and maybe a little less pitch. I got it so that in Normal Flight mode, with down stick, we have zero throttle and a small negative pitch. Looks perfect. Good rise in pitch and throttle up to about that 70% point. I did not dare to take it higher!! [>:]

I see now I have to balance the rotor speed with the pitch at any given stick input - that is another good selling point for the DX7 - extra points on those pitch and throttle curves. I finally now really really understand that.

But, I gotta make do...