f150dan

My Feedback: (18)

I finally got to take this truck out for a test run. I need to mess around with the throttle linkage to get it working correctly though. I also need to adjust the shift points a little bit.

When I was running it, sometimes I would lose radio signal for a little bit. I know I wasn't out of range because I would be quite close to the truck. I am using my JR XS3 radio in it. I was running the stock 4 AA thing for the reciever, but I have a 6v reciever pack I'm gonna through in it to see if that helps. It has 1 645MG steering servo that is barely adequate for it. Do you have any suggestions for the steering servo?

f150dan

My Feedback: (18)

I'm pretty sure I found my problem. That little 4 AA pack had a loose connection in it.

Amec, do you have a link to that SH pipe?

amec

I use this servo
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TowerPro-MG99...QQcmdZViewItem
Works and lasts well and is cheap.

If you contact this ebay seller ( world_hobby )he will give great prices and fast shipping. He doesnt seem to have any servos on ebay at the moment but he does have them. He also has the SH engines at good prices.

amec

I got the pipe off an ebay seller here in Australia. I will contact him and see if he has any more to sell. Please pm me with your email so i can pass it on if need be.

black mamba

Check out my sig for what to do to a basher. In this configuration the truck is a blast to mess with and will wheelie all day long if you want it to. The only future mod I plan on doing is going to a Axial .32 engine because the .25 that's in it now is about 3 years old and is due to be replaced.

f150dan

My Feedback: (18)

I think I finally got the carb dialed in on this S.25. What temp does this motor like to run at? Right now I'm running it at 228-230, but I haven't gone any hotter or leaner. Should I?

IBrakeForNobody

My Feedback: (16)

Temperature? Whats that? I tune by how the engine preforms (i.e. smoke from the pipe, acceleration, top end). I do have a temp gun, but it almost never sees the light of day. You do realize that manufactures suggest running an engine at a certain temperature because most newbies don't know what a properly tuned engine sounds/looks/preforms like. I can say that my Nitro Star .25 ran anywhere from 200 degrees to 250 degrees using a temp gun, tested once a day.

Oh and ThunderBirdJunkie, for adapting a Roto-Start to the Mach 427, I *believe* that you could just buy the backplate for Losi's Spin Start which is a direct bolt on, and get the starter shaft for the Spin Start and insert it directly into the Roto-Start unit. I got to check if the Spin Start shaft is 5.6mm because if it is, then it will slide directly into the Roto-Start.

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

IBFN-the problem with that is, A: the input for the shaft is far to low-you can't get at it with the rear shock tower intact. Also, the Losi Spin Start is actually too LONG and it would interfere wtih the rear shock tower. Also, you STILL have the issue of the backplate being too big, and preventing you from running bigger than a 16 tooth clutchbell with a 49t spur (which is theo nly spur available for the X)

amec

The Losi spin start shaft is not the correct diameter to use in the roto start unit. I tried, it is too large. However the spin start units sell very cheaply on ebay.

black mamba

Don't worry too much about temps...tune it for performance. You can't tune it too lean because when you get to that point, performance will fall off big time...and thus you will richen it up in response. Pretty fool proof science huh? Save the temp readings for the racers that need to tune by temps for lap to lap consistency.

poe

Can you use old savage spurs with the X?

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

poe, only if you use theo ld style Savage slipper setup.

f150dan

My Feedback: (18)

Well, I was just wondering what other people were running. Performance is pretty good at 230, but I didn't know if it had more in it or not. I leaned it out a bit more, but performance just kept on getting better. I haven't found the point to where it drops off yet. I still will only do wheelies from a deap stop though. I will wheelie when its rolling very slow or if it hits something to get the front end started.


Is there any cheap performance tips for this motor besides a motor saver air filter? I've already got that.

black mamba

You could remove one of the head shims for more compression. RC car action did a writeup on this and "home porting".....do a search on their website for the info. Other than intake and exhaust mods, there's not really anything else you can do short of going into the engine like RCCA did. You could run 30% nitro for a little more power if you aren't already.

f150dan

My Feedback: (18)

Well, I run 20% O'Donnell so I might try some 30% fuel. I'll also pull the head off and see how many shims it has. The thing is pretty tight to pull start right now anyway. Pulling a shim might be a mod a little later down the road though.


I stripped the steering servo today. Its a Hitec 645MG servo. When I got the truck it was already installed along with a purple aluminum bellcrank system, but it was running a regular servo horn and no servo saver. Should I put a servo saver on it? Whats a good steering servo upgrade. I would like to have more torque then the Hitec 645MG. I though about getting a digital servo for it, but I've heard you need something special to run them. Right now I have a Reedy reciever pack and a JR XS3 radio. What else would I need for a digital servo? Whats a good regular servo?

f150dan

My Feedback: (18)

If I go digital, I'm thinking about the JR DZ9000T (320oz/in and .15). I'm also thinking about upgrading my throttle/brake servo to the JR Z590 (85oz/in and .15). What do you think about that setup?

How long will the reciever pack last running a digital steering servo?

f150dan

My Feedback: (18)

If I do spend that kind of money on a digi steering servo, I will probably run a servo saver along with it. And since the aluminum bellcrank eliminated the stock saver, what do you guys think about this one? [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001131028&I=LXFUL5&P=K]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001131028&I=LXFUL5&P=K[/link] Its an Associated servo saver for the MGT and its made for JR servos.

I am also gonna order these

[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001131028&I=LXFYL2&P=K]HPI Dual Disk Brake Set Stainless Steel[/link]

[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001131028&I=LXEUZ3&P=K]HPI Steering Upgrade Set Savage[/link]

[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001131028&I=LXGFR8&P=K]Hot Bodies Aluminum Chrome Tuned Pipe w/Manifold Savage[/link]

[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001131028&I=LXKYM2&P=K]Pro-Line Ford F-650 Body T-Maxx/Savage/Revo [/link]

and hopefully this

[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001131028&I=LXKYU8&P=K]Associated LRP Z.28R Spec 3 w/Pull[/link]

What do you think about that Hot Bodies pipe? I am just wanting one a little quieter then the HPI ribbed one I'm running now. When I had my truck apart applying locktite to everything, I noticed the bellcrank setup still had plastic bushings in it so thats why I'm ordering those bearings. Also, when I was messing around with the gearing the other day, I pulled the CB off to check the clutch and springs. It already had aluminum clutch shoes on it. I have no idea who made them, but they were wore pretty good. I used a Dremel to smooth them back out and I smoothed the inside of the CB also. When I replace them, should I go back to aluminum or try a different clutch?

What about this clutch?

[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001131028&I=LXDVK9&P=K]Hot Bodies Heavy Duty Composite Clutch Shoes Savage[/link]

or this one?

[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001131028&I=LXGZL0&P=K]MIP Clutch Kit Savage[/link]

amec

I have been told that the hot bodies pipe is not much good. I havnt used one though. Those steering bearings seem a little expensive, do you have a bearing shop nearby? Probably get them for a couple of dollars. The zspec you will be happy with. I love my sh prospec (same engine).
I have yet to hear back from that sh exhaust seller i told you about the other week. I will try to contact him again.

Hey dan, check your pm.

f150dan

My Feedback: (18)

Thanks for the help Amec. I sent a PM back at ya.

f150dan

My Feedback: (18)

Even though I stripped the 645MG outta my Savage, I was still wanting to run it today. So I had to rob one from my crawler (its got 2, so I can do without rear steer for a little while). I didn't want to risk damaging it too, so I installed a Associated MGT servo saver on it. That should work until I can get that JR DZ9000T here and installed.

I also decided to replace all of the purple aluminum on this truck with blue. I will then try to sell the parts for whatever I can get out of them. I will have a stock main chassis, hinge pin supports, bottom skid, fuel tank guard, bellcrank steering, and a wheelie bar in purple aluminum if anybody is needing them. And a silver aluminum HPI ribbed pipe. There will probably be a few other parts as well.

amec

You dont have alum bulkheads do you?

f150dan

My Feedback: (18)

No I don't. If I did, I would hook you up though. Do you need any of the other parts?




Also, does anybody know where I can get a Savage SS sticker kit from? I've looked all over towerhobbies and I can't seem to find one anywhere. After I paint up the new body, I would like to have a few SS stickers for it.[]

amec

Alum diff housings?

savagenitrosmoker

so overall, how's yer truck been to ya?

f150dan

My Feedback: (18)

No Amec, pretty much just the parts I listed.

savagenitrosmoker, Its been a great truck man. Once I got the needles dialed in, I haven't touched them in over a week and its still running great. I am so glad I got a Savage. I've been wanting one forever though.