Extra 2X2
#201
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From: Hanworth,
CA, UNITED KINGDOM
ORIGINAL: tIANci
Ijust picked up the 2x2 Extra and the workmanship is really nice. I am new to composite planes, I tried to dry fit this plane and noticed that my HORIZONTAL stabs are not flush, especially the port side one. There is a gap of about 1/16" (the leading and trailing edge) and I would like to know if its because of a mere dry fitting or there is something I need to do to make it flush. Any input would be great.
I think my plane will be coverted for EP. At about 13 lbs she is perfect for EP. Thanks guys!!!
Ijust picked up the 2x2 Extra and the workmanship is really nice. I am new to composite planes, I tried to dry fit this plane and noticed that my HORIZONTAL stabs are not flush, especially the port side one. There is a gap of about 1/16" (the leading and trailing edge) and I would like to know if its because of a mere dry fitting or there is something I need to do to make it flush. Any input would be great.
I think my plane will be coverted for EP. At about 13 lbs she is perfect for EP. Thanks guys!!!
I had the same sort of problem with the starboard side,a gap from the LE back, too arkward to sand, I applied release agent to the fuse, and applied a epoxy/micro balloons mix to the edge of the stab, fitted the stab on, wait for cure, remove and trim excess.
Tony
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From: Hanworth,
CA, UNITED KINGDOM
ORIGINAL: tIANci
Tony ... thanks for the reply ... what is a release agent?
Tony ... thanks for the reply ... what is a release agent?
any of these would do for this job on the stabs.
Walk thru -
Very lightly sand the mating edge of the stab ( just to key it slightly )
Apply sellotape all around right to the edge of the stab
Apply some 'release agent' to the fuse slightly larger in area where the stab meets the fuse
Apply a little 'release agent' to the CF rod around the area where in protrudes from the fuse, and the front locating GF pin ( just to ensure that if the mix drips onto the rods it will come apart)
Mix up some 1hr/30min epoxy with some micro-balloons, mix till you get a very stiff mix ( will not fall off the mixing stick)
Apply a bead of the mix all around the edge of the stab
Slide the stab on and position
Let cure till it goes like ' very hard rubber '
Slide stab off, using a new model blade carefully cut excess off till flush with the tape, remove tape, if you want to be really fussy you can finish off flush, but really you only have the thickness of the tape and it hardly shows.
Tony
#204
Senior Member
I know what you mean now! Appreciate it a lot ... thanks!!! How does your plane fly Tony? Really good? Did you remove the overhanging bit on the aileron? At the bottom that is ... the ailerons seem spongy when you deflect it down compared to up. I think I am not going to do anything as I will not be using her for 3D. She is so beautiful that I want to fly her for IMAC only.
#205
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From: Hanworth,
CA, UNITED KINGDOM
ORIGINAL: tIANci
I know what you mean now! Appreciate it a lot ... thanks!!! How does your plane fly Tony? Really good? Did you remove the overhanging bit on the aileron? At the bottom that is ... the ailerons seem spongy when you deflect it down compared to up. I think I am not going to do anything as I will not be using her for 3D. She is so beautiful that I want to fly her for IMAC only.
I know what you mean now! Appreciate it a lot ... thanks!!! How does your plane fly Tony? Really good? Did you remove the overhanging bit on the aileron? At the bottom that is ... the ailerons seem spongy when you deflect it down compared to up. I think I am not going to do anything as I will not be using her for 3D. She is so beautiful that I want to fly her for IMAC only.
The best setups I have seen are the electric conversions..!!
The ailerons do get tight downward, I did not remove the overhang, but I have made a small slot to clear the aileron horn when going to full deflection.
Attach some pics.
There are some posts on here by Buzz Lightyear who used a OS140RX and is flying IMAC, he setup is really good.
Tony
#206
I have a 2x2 that I put together this summer. It's a nice flying airplane however I am having some tracking issues in knife flight, it pulls to the belly. Invert flight is nice, all most hands off. I set it up with 3 degrees right and 1 degree up thrust. running a DA50 22X10.
wing and stab are at zero incidence. I added a rudder elevator mix to help correct the tracking in knife edge but I would really like to know how to adjust the plane so it will track straight with out any mixes. I'm looking for help or suggestions.
Dave
wing and stab are at zero incidence. I added a rudder elevator mix to help correct the tracking in knife edge but I would really like to know how to adjust the plane so it will track straight with out any mixes. I'm looking for help or suggestions.
Dave
#207
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From: Hanworth,
CA, UNITED KINGDOM
ORIGINAL: dwextra
I have a 2x2 that I put together this summer. It's a nice flying airplane however I am having some tracking issues in knife flight, it pulls to the belly. Invert flight is nice, all most hands off. I set it up with 3 degrees right and 1 degree up thrust. running a DA50 22X10.
wing and stab are at zero incidence. I added a rudder elevator mix to help correct the tracking in knife edge but I would really like to know how to adjust the plane so it will track straight with out any mixes. I'm looking for help or suggestions.
Dave
I have a 2x2 that I put together this summer. It's a nice flying airplane however I am having some tracking issues in knife flight, it pulls to the belly. Invert flight is nice, all most hands off. I set it up with 3 degrees right and 1 degree up thrust. running a DA50 22X10.
wing and stab are at zero incidence. I added a rudder elevator mix to help correct the tracking in knife edge but I would really like to know how to adjust the plane so it will track straight with out any mixes. I'm looking for help or suggestions.
Dave
Mine is exactly the same, the basic F3A ' trim charts' states -
Fly model on normal pass, roll to knife edge, left and right, use rudder to hold model level
A. Model does not change pitch
B. Model pitches to canopy
C. Model pitches to belly
A. No adjustment needed
B. Either move CG aft; or increase wing incidence; or mix down elevator with rudder
C. Reverse of B
So, you adjust one thing, and it will affect something else..!!! bit of a 'two edge' situation.
The only model I have flown that did not have any coupling issue's was a Yak, absolutey no elev inputs required in KE, except for steering it and cross wind..! The Yak setup was very close to a zero/zero/zero ( everything virtually on the thrust line..)
Tony
#208
Senior Member
Tony ... thanks for the tip on the little cut out ... I hope to keep her light with EP. Just realised that you only need to bite the bullet for batteries and you can have as many big EP planes as you want because the motor and ESC is really cheap nowadays. I got a Mid West CAP 232 80" too ... that was built pretty light for me but the Comp ARF is so much lighter!
Yeah ... Buzz's set up is really light and he must be having a ball ... I have the YS160 but I doubt I want to go with an engine for my plane, will be more fun with EP. I guess I am getting tired of the mess from nitro engines etc. I just want to plug N play ... appreciate your assistance! Thanks.
Yeah ... Buzz's set up is really light and he must be having a ball ... I have the YS160 but I doubt I want to go with an engine for my plane, will be more fun with EP. I guess I am getting tired of the mess from nitro engines etc. I just want to plug N play ... appreciate your assistance! Thanks.
#212
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From: Hanworth,
CA, UNITED KINGDOM
ORIGINAL: CHV69
Can this plane be built to weigh less then 11 lb ready to fly?
Thanks
Carl
Can this plane be built to weigh less then 11 lb ready to fly?
Thanks
Carl
JMHO..I think you would be really pushed to get the 2x2 less than 11lbs RTF, the airframe weighs in at around 7lb 2oz, you could lose a few oz with a CF wing tube. Lightest I.C I know about is Buzz lightyears OS 140 2x2, just shy of 12lb I think..Electric versions come in around 12-13lb, depending on motor/cells
Good flying
Tony
#213
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From: , FL
Hello everyone,
I'm building an Extra 2x2, and on the left wing I can get a maximum aileron down throw of less than 45mm instead of the recommended high rates of 50mm. (I can get up to 65mm on the right wing.) I spoke with a Comp-ARF rep, and they told me that this would be more than enough throw.
What is your experience? How much aileron down-throw do you use for 3D rates?
Thanks,
Marc
I'm building an Extra 2x2, and on the left wing I can get a maximum aileron down throw of less than 45mm instead of the recommended high rates of 50mm. (I can get up to 65mm on the right wing.) I spoke with a Comp-ARF rep, and they told me that this would be more than enough throw.
What is your experience? How much aileron down-throw do you use for 3D rates?
Thanks,
Marc
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From: Hanworth,
CA, UNITED KINGDOM
ORIGINAL: marclaukien
Hello everyone,
I'm building an Extra 2x2, and on the left wing I can get a maximum aileron down throw of less than 45mm instead of the recommended high rates of 50mm. (I can get up to 65mm on the right wing.) I spoke with a Comp-ARF rep, and they told me that this would be more than enough throw.
What is your experience? How much aileron down-throw do you use for 3D rates?
Thanks,
Marc
Hello everyone,
I'm building an Extra 2x2, and on the left wing I can get a maximum aileron down throw of less than 45mm instead of the recommended high rates of 50mm. (I can get up to 65mm on the right wing.) I spoke with a Comp-ARF rep, and they told me that this would be more than enough throw.
What is your experience? How much aileron down-throw do you use for 3D rates?
Thanks,
Marc
Look at my post #205, I have cut out part of the 'TE' to allow the aileron to travel 'down' further, I get 55m down, could go a bit more, but will start to stall the servo.
Good flying
Tony
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From: , FL
ORIGINAL: devcon9
Hi Marc
Look at my post #205, I have cut out part of the 'TE' to allow the aileron to travel 'down' further, I get 55m down, could go a bit more, but will start to stall the servo.
Good flying
Tony
ORIGINAL: marclaukien
Hello everyone,
I'm building an Extra 2x2, and on the left wing I can get a maximum aileron down throw of less than 45mm instead of the recommended high rates of 50mm. (I can get up to 65mm on the right wing.) I spoke with a Comp-ARF rep, and they told me that this would be more than enough throw.
What is your experience? How much aileron down-throw do you use for 3D rates?
Thanks,
Marc
Hello everyone,
I'm building an Extra 2x2, and on the left wing I can get a maximum aileron down throw of less than 45mm instead of the recommended high rates of 50mm. (I can get up to 65mm on the right wing.) I spoke with a Comp-ARF rep, and they told me that this would be more than enough throw.
What is your experience? How much aileron down-throw do you use for 3D rates?
Thanks,
Marc
Look at my post #205, I have cut out part of the 'TE' to allow the aileron to travel 'down' further, I get 55m down, could go a bit more, but will start to stall the servo.
Good flying
Tony
The problem with my wing is that I can't get more than 45mm, because the rear spar is too far back. I already sanded the edge of the aileron. If I sand of more, I will get a huge gap, so this is not an option. I told the Comp-ARF rep, but they don't want to replace the faulty wing, because the throw would be "more than enough". So I simply wonder what the experience of other 2x2 owners is.
Thanks,
Marc
#217
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From: Friendswood,
TX
I too have just bought a slightly used 2X2. I am very excited about it. The previous owner followed the instruction very well and constructed everything properly. He included the manual and wing bags with the consignment sale at my LHS. I have the following questions about the aircraft. Please help me with them.
- Each wing came with two plastic nuts. The manual does not reference this. What is the purpose? for double-nut locking?
- The fuselage sides where the wings butt up to show wear as others have pointed out. What can I do about this? nothing to worry about?
- I can see that with sudden accelleration/decelleration in flight that the wings can buckle the fuselage sides at both leading and trailing edges. If I mechanically fasten the anti-rotation dowels at the leading edge as part of the wing installation, it will eliminate this problem. Has anyone come up with a solution that allows quick installation? aluminum rods with slits cut at both ends to capture both wing dowels and cinched down with pipe clamps?
- The 2-piece landing gear appeared to have pulled the fuselage halves apart some. Has anyone tried to fasten a short strap across the two gears? strap made out of 1/8" sheet aluminum? plywood?
- I am installing a new DL-50 on the bird and metal gear servos ST125, HS-5645. Acceptable? concerns?
Thank you in advance for your help.
- Each wing came with two plastic nuts. The manual does not reference this. What is the purpose? for double-nut locking?
- The fuselage sides where the wings butt up to show wear as others have pointed out. What can I do about this? nothing to worry about?
- I can see that with sudden accelleration/decelleration in flight that the wings can buckle the fuselage sides at both leading and trailing edges. If I mechanically fasten the anti-rotation dowels at the leading edge as part of the wing installation, it will eliminate this problem. Has anyone come up with a solution that allows quick installation? aluminum rods with slits cut at both ends to capture both wing dowels and cinched down with pipe clamps?
- The 2-piece landing gear appeared to have pulled the fuselage halves apart some. Has anyone tried to fasten a short strap across the two gears? strap made out of 1/8" sheet aluminum? plywood?
- I am installing a new DL-50 on the bird and metal gear servos ST125, HS-5645. Acceptable? concerns?
Thank you in advance for your help.
#218
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From: Schaffen, BELGIUM
Hi Coronabob...
My english is not very good, but i'll give it a try...
- One plastic nut for each wing is ok, the other one is a spare. If you wanna use 2 for each wing, no prob...
- Put some microwave oven foil on the fuse. Apply some silicone on the inside of the wing where it meets the fuse and put the wing on the fuse. Let it dry. Remove the foil.
- Sounds like you have some space between wingtube and the wing. Just put some clear tape around the wingtube, just enough until your wing fits tight around the tube.
- I've put some plywood between the gears. But if you have a really hard landing, it'll break too...just try to land smoothly
- A DL-50? Isn't that a chinese DA-50...should work... About the servo's, i prefer a hs5985 all around. The control surfaces are quite big. You don't wanna have flutter, it'll just tear off the wing...ask Bart [sm=omg_smile.gif]
Although the new C-arf extra 300 2.12m is the better version of the 2x2, you will enjoy this one!
Gr Gaaaz
My english is not very good, but i'll give it a try...
- One plastic nut for each wing is ok, the other one is a spare. If you wanna use 2 for each wing, no prob...
- Put some microwave oven foil on the fuse. Apply some silicone on the inside of the wing where it meets the fuse and put the wing on the fuse. Let it dry. Remove the foil.
- Sounds like you have some space between wingtube and the wing. Just put some clear tape around the wingtube, just enough until your wing fits tight around the tube.
- I've put some plywood between the gears. But if you have a really hard landing, it'll break too...just try to land smoothly

- A DL-50? Isn't that a chinese DA-50...should work... About the servo's, i prefer a hs5985 all around. The control surfaces are quite big. You don't wanna have flutter, it'll just tear off the wing...ask Bart [sm=omg_smile.gif]
Although the new C-arf extra 300 2.12m is the better version of the 2x2, you will enjoy this one!
Gr Gaaaz
#219
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From: Friendswood,
TX
Gr Gaaaz,
I have patiently waited to hear from someone. Your English is perfect. Thank you so much for responding.
Yes, the DL50 is the Chinese DA50. You could not have put it in a better way. Your recommended fix for the wing rubbing sounds like an excellent solution. Regarding the landing gear, I have placed a piece of plywood to tie the two halves together. I normally land softly but not 100% of the time.
Thank you again.
I have patiently waited to hear from someone. Your English is perfect. Thank you so much for responding.
Yes, the DL50 is the Chinese DA50. You could not have put it in a better way. Your recommended fix for the wing rubbing sounds like an excellent solution. Regarding the landing gear, I have placed a piece of plywood to tie the two halves together. I normally land softly but not 100% of the time.
Thank you again.
#220
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From: London,
ON, CANADA
Gentlemen, I have a prototype 2X2 and I Know this has already been asked several times but will a O.S 1.60 with a pipe be enough or what about a Saito 220??? will it still hover with either of these motors?? Thanks Colin.
#221
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Hi colyn
Yes i have one of these with an OS1.60fx. This engine is excellent power option for the CA 2m. Will keep it extremely light and will fly perfect. Just remember to mount th levator servo's in the front and run a Dowel/pushrod combo with a Y to the 2 elevator halves. For this choose a hi-torque metal geared servo. The above setup will give you a model at approx 11.25 Pounds. It will be the best flying you will ever do. Also you do not have to go through the cost of the DA version. The only caveat is that this power combination is adequate for a IMAC routine, if you plan to fly 3D, you will have to opt for a heavier Gas engine.
Regards
Ravi
Yes i have one of these with an OS1.60fx. This engine is excellent power option for the CA 2m. Will keep it extremely light and will fly perfect. Just remember to mount th levator servo's in the front and run a Dowel/pushrod combo with a Y to the 2 elevator halves. For this choose a hi-torque metal geared servo. The above setup will give you a model at approx 11.25 Pounds. It will be the best flying you will ever do. Also you do not have to go through the cost of the DA version. The only caveat is that this power combination is adequate for a IMAC routine, if you plan to fly 3D, you will have to opt for a heavier Gas engine.
Regards
Ravi
#222
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From: PERTH, AUSTRALIA
Hi Any CompARF Flyers,
Does anyone know how to set the differential on the CompArf ailerons? I have only 4 flights on my 2x2 with a DA 50 with cannister and although the plane flies well I still have plenty of trimming to do. I am using a JR 9X Tx.
Thanks
Lang
Does anyone know how to set the differential on the CompArf ailerons? I have only 4 flights on my 2x2 with a DA 50 with cannister and although the plane flies well I still have plenty of trimming to do. I am using a JR 9X Tx.
Thanks
Lang
#223
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From: Schaffen, BELGIUM
Hi Langster,
my TX is a Graupner MX-22. Should be more or less the same as your JR 9X.
I've set my aileron difference -25%
Also i programmed rudder to aileron and rudder to elevator mix:
LinearMIX Rudder->Elevator +23% -23%
LinearMIX Rudder->Aileron -9% -9%
my TX is a Graupner MX-22. Should be more or less the same as your JR 9X.
I've set my aileron difference -25%
Also i programmed rudder to aileron and rudder to elevator mix:
LinearMIX Rudder->Elevator +23% -23%
LinearMIX Rudder->Aileron -9% -9%




