Senior header tank
#1
Thread Starter

Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Ellsworth,
WI
Hey gang, enjoying the building season? Question on fuel systems with a header.
I set my Sig Senior up with a header tank fuel system. A 40oz dubro main tank under the CG and a 4oz dubro header tank. I installed a third line into the main tank to fuel/defuel it. The header clunk line went to the Saito fuel "intake," the vent line on the header went to the clunk line on the main tank, the main tank vent went to the press. tap on the Saito's muffler. Does this setup sound correct?
I flew the airplane maybe half a dozen times and spent a long time tuning the Saito (I broke it in for about 45minutes using the manual instructions and the same fuel setup) . The tuning stuff I think was inexperience on my part. I got a tach and some help and we eventually got her sounding the way a good running Saito sounds. It is a sweet sounding engine. I wound up having a lot of trouble fueling and defueling it. The third line to the main tank never worked. I eventually got the fuel into it via the header clunk line. I couldn't ever defuel it more than a drible though and wound up using a bicyle pump to push the fuel out. This eventually forced the cap on the little header loose (I'm guessing) and it sprayed glow fuel all over the inside of my Senior. I've been spending more time than I want replacing/sanding out the soaked balsa.
My questions; Is this setup correct? Does a third linke to the maintank work on this setup? What is the proper way to fuel/defuel this setup? I'd love to set it up this way again. I think I can get 40minutes plus on this setup, probably more with that Saito tuned in right. Its a blast to fly and with the long flight times its super easy to get my stepson some sticktime. He tends to like his pz trojan though
.
I set my Sig Senior up with a header tank fuel system. A 40oz dubro main tank under the CG and a 4oz dubro header tank. I installed a third line into the main tank to fuel/defuel it. The header clunk line went to the Saito fuel "intake," the vent line on the header went to the clunk line on the main tank, the main tank vent went to the press. tap on the Saito's muffler. Does this setup sound correct?
I flew the airplane maybe half a dozen times and spent a long time tuning the Saito (I broke it in for about 45minutes using the manual instructions and the same fuel setup) . The tuning stuff I think was inexperience on my part. I got a tach and some help and we eventually got her sounding the way a good running Saito sounds. It is a sweet sounding engine. I wound up having a lot of trouble fueling and defueling it. The third line to the main tank never worked. I eventually got the fuel into it via the header clunk line. I couldn't ever defuel it more than a drible though and wound up using a bicyle pump to push the fuel out. This eventually forced the cap on the little header loose (I'm guessing) and it sprayed glow fuel all over the inside of my Senior. I've been spending more time than I want replacing/sanding out the soaked balsa.
My questions; Is this setup correct? Does a third linke to the maintank work on this setup? What is the proper way to fuel/defuel this setup? I'd love to set it up this way again. I think I can get 40minutes plus on this setup, probably more with that Saito tuned in right. Its a blast to fly and with the long flight times its super easy to get my stepson some sticktime. He tends to like his pz trojan though
.
#3

My Feedback: (11)
Not so sure I understand your set up right.
I also use 3 lines.
#1. with clunker is the pickup line goes to engine fuel intake.
#2. Filler line which is connected to the muffler to pressurize the tank. I disconect it from mufler for refuling.
#3. The third line is strictly an overflow tube that blows out extra fuel when the tank is filled up, I plug it with a screw after refuling. This prevents me from flooding the engine when fueling.
Worth noting that #2&3 are tubes which are bent up towards the top of the tank.
You can drain the tank by using the fuel line attached to the engine but that may be cumbersom.
If u turn the model upside down u could use any of #2 or #3 to drain the fuel with.
Worth noting all of the fuel lines attached to the engine or tank should be secured to their tubes with clips.
Hope I didnt confuse u.
Rafeek
I also use 3 lines.
#1. with clunker is the pickup line goes to engine fuel intake.
#2. Filler line which is connected to the muffler to pressurize the tank. I disconect it from mufler for refuling.
#3. The third line is strictly an overflow tube that blows out extra fuel when the tank is filled up, I plug it with a screw after refuling. This prevents me from flooding the engine when fueling.
Worth noting that #2&3 are tubes which are bent up towards the top of the tank.
You can drain the tank by using the fuel line attached to the engine but that may be cumbersom.
If u turn the model upside down u could use any of #2 or #3 to drain the fuel with.
Worth noting all of the fuel lines attached to the engine or tank should be secured to their tubes with clips.
Hope I didnt confuse u.
Rafeek
#4
Thread Starter

Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Ellsworth,
WI
Thanks for the help, I have other models setup w just the two lines. This model uses the smaller header tank behind the firewall so a larger tank can be placed further back in the fuselage where there is more room. The header feeds the motor, the pressure tap from the motor pressurizes the larger main tank (further back in the fuse) through its vent line and fuel is then pushed from the main tanks clunk to the headers vent line thus filling the header. Clear as mud? Fueling gets tuff because you have to push fuel past the header into the main tank. I'd get a single tank for the nose, but I don't think I can get 40oz up there
#5
Senior Member
My Feedback: (4)
Well, first off, it's not the best of setups.
Let's do a little "Tank 101" here. The reason you want to keep the tank close to the engine is so the engine doesn't have to draw fuel from a long distance. This is not so bad when you're plane is level, but when it's nose-up it's having to lift a long column of fuel up through the fuel line.
So in your case, the header tank is doing virtually nothing - You should even consider removing it.
You see, even though it is close to the engine, and the engine is drawing from it, IT is drawing from the main tank. So in esscense, the engine is drawing from the main tank. In other words, imagine having a long line directly from the engine to the main tank and then having a large bulge in that line just behind the engine. That is basically what your header tank is. (I'm working on a computer without Photoshop or I'd draw a picture).
What this boilds down to is: If your engine runs fine with the tank back at the CG, you might as well pitch the header tank as it is only complicating things.
As to your fill problem, check the lines inside the tank, sounds like something is plugged
Let's do a little "Tank 101" here. The reason you want to keep the tank close to the engine is so the engine doesn't have to draw fuel from a long distance. This is not so bad when you're plane is level, but when it's nose-up it's having to lift a long column of fuel up through the fuel line.
So in your case, the header tank is doing virtually nothing - You should even consider removing it.
You see, even though it is close to the engine, and the engine is drawing from it, IT is drawing from the main tank. So in esscense, the engine is drawing from the main tank. In other words, imagine having a long line directly from the engine to the main tank and then having a large bulge in that line just behind the engine. That is basically what your header tank is. (I'm working on a computer without Photoshop or I'd draw a picture).
What this boilds down to is: If your engine runs fine with the tank back at the CG, you might as well pitch the header tank as it is only complicating things.
As to your fill problem, check the lines inside the tank, sounds like something is plugged
#6

My Feedback: (158)
ORIGINAL: kargo
Hey gang, enjoying the building season? Question on fuel systems with a header.
I set my Sig Senior up with a header tank fuel system. A 40oz dubro main tank under the CG and a 4oz dubro header tank. I installed a third line into the main tank to fuel/defuel it. The header clunk line went to the Saito fuel ''intake,'' the vent line on the header went to the clunk line on the main tank, the main tank vent went to the press. tap on the Saito's muffler. Does this setup sound correct?
I flew the airplane maybe half a dozen times and spent a long time tuning the Saito (I broke it in for about 45minutes using the manual instructions and the same fuel setup) . The tuning stuff I think was inexperience on my part. I got a tach and some help and we eventually got her sounding the way a good running Saito sounds. It is a sweet sounding engine. I wound up having a lot of trouble fueling and defueling it. The third line to the main tank never worked. I eventually got the fuel into it via the header clunk line. I couldn't ever defuel it more than a drible though and wound up using a bicyle pump to push the fuel out. This eventually forced the cap on the little header loose (I'm guessing) and it sprayed glow fuel all over the inside of my Senior. I've been spending more time than I want replacing/sanding out the soaked balsa.
My questions; Is this setup correct? Does a third linke to the maintank work on this setup? What is the proper way to fuel/defuel this setup? I'd love to set it up this way again. I think I can get 40minutes plus on this setup, probably more with that Saito tuned in right. Its a blast to fly and with the long flight times its super easy to get my stepson some sticktime. He tends to like his pz trojan though
.
Hey gang, enjoying the building season? Question on fuel systems with a header.
I set my Sig Senior up with a header tank fuel system. A 40oz dubro main tank under the CG and a 4oz dubro header tank. I installed a third line into the main tank to fuel/defuel it. The header clunk line went to the Saito fuel ''intake,'' the vent line on the header went to the clunk line on the main tank, the main tank vent went to the press. tap on the Saito's muffler. Does this setup sound correct?
I flew the airplane maybe half a dozen times and spent a long time tuning the Saito (I broke it in for about 45minutes using the manual instructions and the same fuel setup) . The tuning stuff I think was inexperience on my part. I got a tach and some help and we eventually got her sounding the way a good running Saito sounds. It is a sweet sounding engine. I wound up having a lot of trouble fueling and defueling it. The third line to the main tank never worked. I eventually got the fuel into it via the header clunk line. I couldn't ever defuel it more than a drible though and wound up using a bicyle pump to push the fuel out. This eventually forced the cap on the little header loose (I'm guessing) and it sprayed glow fuel all over the inside of my Senior. I've been spending more time than I want replacing/sanding out the soaked balsa.
My questions; Is this setup correct? Does a third linke to the maintank work on this setup? What is the proper way to fuel/defuel this setup? I'd love to set it up this way again. I think I can get 40minutes plus on this setup, probably more with that Saito tuned in right. Its a blast to fly and with the long flight times its super easy to get my stepson some sticktime. He tends to like his pz trojan though
.
Draining problem??
Assuming you are draining from the third line?? and the muffler line is vented, should drain fine.
You must have had something kinked or blocked to not drain right. check you plumbing for crap in the line, clogged filter??
good luck
Also,
I tend to agree with Minnflyer, you really don't need the header tank unless you see a lot of foaming.
#7
Senior Member
My Feedback: (14)
Running a header tank is bad news and problematic. Yes, you can find such practices in some full scale devices, but you will invariably find a pumped and pressure regulated fuel delivery system that has been well engineered. Not a purely suction fed carburetor, like the types we use in modeldom.
I'll bet I can get an hour or more of flight time while flying a four-stroke .70 glow engine and using a 12 ounce fuel tank, simply by throttling back. A 40 ounce tank is way too large for a suction fed engine and the problems that such a large fuel tank will cause are not moderated with the use of a header tank.
Ed Cregger
I'll bet I can get an hour or more of flight time while flying a four-stroke .70 glow engine and using a 12 ounce fuel tank, simply by throttling back. A 40 ounce tank is way too large for a suction fed engine and the problems that such a large fuel tank will cause are not moderated with the use of a header tank.
Ed Cregger
#8

My Feedback: (158)
ORIGINAL: rafeeki
Not so sure I understand your set up right.
I also use 3 lines.
#1. with clunker is the pickup line goes to engine fuel intake.
#2. Filler line which is connected to the muffler to pressurize the tank. I disconect it from mufler for refuling.
#3. The third line is strictly an overflow tube that blows out extra fuel when the tank is filled up, I plug it with a screw after refuling. This prevents me from flooding the engine when fueling.
Worth noting that #2&3 are tubes which are bent up towards the top of the tank.
You can drain the tank by using the fuel line attached to the engine but that may be cumbersom.
If u turn the model upside down u could use any of #2 or #3 to drain the fuel with.
Worth noting all of the fuel lines attached to the engine or tank should be secured to their tubes with clips.
Hope I didnt confuse u.
Rafeek
Not so sure I understand your set up right.
I also use 3 lines.
#1. with clunker is the pickup line goes to engine fuel intake.
#2. Filler line which is connected to the muffler to pressurize the tank. I disconect it from mufler for refuling.
#3. The third line is strictly an overflow tube that blows out extra fuel when the tank is filled up, I plug it with a screw after refuling. This prevents me from flooding the engine when fueling.
Worth noting that #2&3 are tubes which are bent up towards the top of the tank.
You can drain the tank by using the fuel line attached to the engine but that may be cumbersom.
If u turn the model upside down u could use any of #2 or #3 to drain the fuel with.
Worth noting all of the fuel lines attached to the engine or tank should be secured to their tubes with clips.
Hope I didnt confuse u.
Rafeek
#9
Thread Starter

Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Ellsworth,
WI
Thanks for the input gang. Now that I've got it all torn appart I'll do some test runs without the header. I found this idea somewhere, and it seemed to work great when I broke in the saito. The main tank was a full foot lower than the engine. I might have got the idea from a source using a much stronger and larger gas engine.
Is there anything else that can be done to help this setup work other than a smaller tank or a pump?
Anyone else run this mod on their senior? I heard it was a common thing to do.
Is there anything else that can be done to help this setup work other than a smaller tank or a pump?
Anyone else run this mod on their senior? I heard it was a common thing to do.
#10
Thread Starter

Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Ellsworth,
WI
This is where I initially got the idea;
header tanks;
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10...tm.htm#1049404
press regulators
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_39...tm.htm#3980908
Is my main tank simply too big? Could I fit a couple same size tanks with this setup? What about a Cline regulator/pressurized tank or a Iron Bay regulator to help with fuel feed at all attitudes?
Maybe my setup had something to do with my troubles getting my saito tuned in. It wound up running backwards a lot
. I know minnflyer has mentioned the fuel setups are a common problem with engine run issues.
Thanks again gang
header tanks;
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10...tm.htm#1049404
press regulators
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_39...tm.htm#3980908
Is my main tank simply too big? Could I fit a couple same size tanks with this setup? What about a Cline regulator/pressurized tank or a Iron Bay regulator to help with fuel feed at all attitudes?
Maybe my setup had something to do with my troubles getting my saito tuned in. It wound up running backwards a lot
. I know minnflyer has mentioned the fuel setups are a common problem with engine run issues.Thanks again gang
#11

My Feedback: (-1)
Your engine does need a tune up. On stunt planes like Extras or Sukhois I run the YS 1.20 four stroke engines. I think the biggest tank I have is a 16 ounce. My rule of thumb is one ounce per minute of flight but it really isn't that much, more like an minute and a half and that's in a stunt plane. A 40 ounce tank in your plane is great if you plane on flying around for over an hour. A 12 ounce tank in the senior would be more in line for normal use. 16 ounces if you want real long flights. Your plane doesn't require a lot of power so about 2 or 2.5 ounces per minute would be more in line. A smaller tank would even fit where it's supposed to go.
#12
Thread Starter

Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Ellsworth,
WI
yeah I know, thanks for the info, I like the rule of thumb. But like everyone else I've got to ignore all the good advice I get and be greedy
I might try for just the single tank up front yet, it depends on how well the test runs go. I've got quite a bit of work to do on the Senior, and some work to do at work so I've got a while to decide what I'm going to do. With the gouge you gave, a couple 12 oz tanks would be 40 minutes of flying.
This airplane is sort of a continual project. It was probably a little outside my build skill so its kinda beastly and getting more beastly, but its a lot of fun to fly.
Thanks again
I might try for just the single tank up front yet, it depends on how well the test runs go. I've got quite a bit of work to do on the Senior, and some work to do at work so I've got a while to decide what I'm going to do. With the gouge you gave, a couple 12 oz tanks would be 40 minutes of flying.This airplane is sort of a continual project. It was probably a little outside my build skill so its kinda beastly and getting more beastly, but its a lot of fun to fly.
Thanks again
#13

My Feedback: (-1)
That's just sort of a way I decide what size tank I'm going to install. I don't have any big floaters in my hanger so it's hard to gage how long a big Senior would fly with that size tank, I never saw what size engine you have but it looked like a 100GK?? To float around at 1/3 throttle it would fly all day. I do know a few guys that will do that but I can't focus that long myself. I do it with my little electric but get eye strain after about 20 minutes. I'm fooling with a header tank right now, it's installed but I haven't test flown the plane yet. It's a small pattern plane but the fuel tank is about a foot behind the engine. It runs and will fly well but after I use up a bit of fuel there isn't enough pressure. I added a 2 ounce header right behind the engine to see what would happen? One 16 ounce tank should fit right behind your fire wall and give you a lot of flight time and remove any fuel flow problems you have.
#14
Thread Starter

Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Ellsworth,
WI
A fuel tank in the nose of the airplane? Come on
. Its probably what I'll have to do. I forget who makes them, maybe its sulivan, but its called a flex tank. I used one in my 4*40 to get the biggest tank I could in it. It worked very well, even made getting the cap in a bit easier. The senior seemed to run well, but never more than a acceptable idle. Its a Saito .72. I just liked the idea of long flight times to make it easier to both work with my son and get some stick time myself. Another issue with the tank size was the room in the nose, it gets hard to get the fuel tank cap at the right height for the motor position.
. Its probably what I'll have to do. I forget who makes them, maybe its sulivan, but its called a flex tank. I used one in my 4*40 to get the biggest tank I could in it. It worked very well, even made getting the cap in a bit easier. The senior seemed to run well, but never more than a acceptable idle. Its a Saito .72. I just liked the idea of long flight times to make it easier to both work with my son and get some stick time myself. Another issue with the tank size was the room in the nose, it gets hard to get the fuel tank cap at the right height for the motor position.
#16
Thread Starter

Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Ellsworth,
WI
Again, thanks to everyone for their help.
Another one of the reasons I used the header tank setup was the difficulty the cap of the fuel tank at an acceptable height relative to the motor. I've read this should be no more than half an inch below (and I know I'm not using the right term here) the fuel intake on the motor. The instructions used an 8oz tank and I of course wanted a lot more than that. The instructions (see link) show an 8 oz tank tucked right up against the stringers for the nose, its back end right up against the 1/4inch cross piece (step 64 picture 62). The space is really limited unless you cut out that cross piece like you do in step 61 picture 60 (they do this for sliding the tank in and out, with the header I didn't need to remove this).
Do you guys think I'll be able to get away with the motor an inch above the fuel tank cap? I might be able to mount the motor inverted or sideways and solve this issue. Any suggestions?
Thanks, Kargo
Another one of the reasons I used the header tank setup was the difficulty the cap of the fuel tank at an acceptable height relative to the motor. I've read this should be no more than half an inch below (and I know I'm not using the right term here) the fuel intake on the motor. The instructions used an 8oz tank and I of course wanted a lot more than that. The instructions (see link) show an 8 oz tank tucked right up against the stringers for the nose, its back end right up against the 1/4inch cross piece (step 64 picture 62). The space is really limited unless you cut out that cross piece like you do in step 61 picture 60 (they do this for sliding the tank in and out, with the header I didn't need to remove this).
Do you guys think I'll be able to get away with the motor an inch above the fuel tank cap? I might be able to mount the motor inverted or sideways and solve this issue. Any suggestions?
Thanks, Kargo
#17
Senior Member
My Feedback: (14)
ORIGINAL: kargo
Again, thanks to everyone for their help.
Another one of the reasons I used the header tank setup was the difficulty the cap of the fuel tank at an acceptable height relative to the motor. I've read this should be no more than half an inch below (and I know I'm not using the right term here) the fuel intake on the motor. The instructions used an 8oz tank and I of course wanted a lot more than that. The instructions (see link) show an 8 oz tank tucked right up against the stringers for the nose, its back end right up against the 1/4inch cross piece (step 64 picture 62). The space is really limited unless you cut out that cross piece like you do in step 61 picture 60 (they do this for sliding the tank in and out, with the header I didn't need to remove this).
Do you guys think I'll be able to get away with the motor an inch above the fuel tank cap? I might be able to mount the motor inverted or sideways and solve this issue. Any suggestions?
Thanks, Kargo
Again, thanks to everyone for their help.
Another one of the reasons I used the header tank setup was the difficulty the cap of the fuel tank at an acceptable height relative to the motor. I've read this should be no more than half an inch below (and I know I'm not using the right term here) the fuel intake on the motor. The instructions used an 8oz tank and I of course wanted a lot more than that. The instructions (see link) show an 8 oz tank tucked right up against the stringers for the nose, its back end right up against the 1/4inch cross piece (step 64 picture 62). The space is really limited unless you cut out that cross piece like you do in step 61 picture 60 (they do this for sliding the tank in and out, with the header I didn't need to remove this).
Do you guys think I'll be able to get away with the motor an inch above the fuel tank cap? I might be able to mount the motor inverted or sideways and solve this issue. Any suggestions?
Thanks, Kargo
If you were going to run an 8 oz. fuel tank, having the fuel feed line exiting the centerline of the fuel tank up to three or even four inches below the carb's spraybar would probably work just fine. However, as we both know, that is not the situation that you are in.
The problem I see is with the 40 oz. fuel tank as it burns off fuel, or as you climb and dive the model. As stated previously, in other articles, your engine is using suction feed with no regulation other than that provided by the SIZE, SHAPE and LOCATION of the fuel tank. Your little Saito .72, while a fine engine, lacks the sophisticated carburetor/fuel system that your ultra long duration flights require.
Ed Cregger
#18
Thread Starter

Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Ellsworth,
WI
Thanks for the reply Ed. Something I was wondering after reading your previous post; How big can I go with the Saito .72? 40oz is to big, What about 24?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD723&P=0
It would fit more or less, although there wouldn't room for anything else except maybe under the arched stringer area. So the size is improved, and the location with respect to distance from the motor. The cap would be within an inch and a half or so of the spraybar (thanks for the correct term
).
I know its just your best guess, but its probably a lot better than mine.
Kargo
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD723&P=0
It would fit more or less, although there wouldn't room for anything else except maybe under the arched stringer area. So the size is improved, and the location with respect to distance from the motor. The cap would be within an inch and a half or so of the spraybar (thanks for the correct term
).I know its just your best guess, but its probably a lot better than mine.
Kargo
#19
Senior Member
My Feedback: (14)
I wouldn't go over 12 ounces without going with a pressurized/regulated fuel system, such as a Cline or the other brand, which is safely tucked away in my brain, but which will not surface to the fore so that I can type it for all to see. Ah, I remember, the name is Iron Bay.
Some folks have even used a Walbro carb's fuel pump and regulator function to accomplish the same trick. With such a large, light weight model as the Kadet Senior, the small additional weight of the Walbro carb will be negligible, but you would be hard pressed to find a better pump and regulator. Some of the folks on this forum have mentioned the fact that they did hijack a Walbro carb in this manner for use with glow fuel. Anyone?
With the Walbro set up, your 40 oz. tank would work, but I would look into baffling the innards so that your model doesn't suddenly find itself very tail heavy when you raise the nose to climb. Good luck.
Ed Cregger
Some folks have even used a Walbro carb's fuel pump and regulator function to accomplish the same trick. With such a large, light weight model as the Kadet Senior, the small additional weight of the Walbro carb will be negligible, but you would be hard pressed to find a better pump and regulator. Some of the folks on this forum have mentioned the fact that they did hijack a Walbro carb in this manner for use with glow fuel. Anyone?
With the Walbro set up, your 40 oz. tank would work, but I would look into baffling the innards so that your model doesn't suddenly find itself very tail heavy when you raise the nose to climb. Good luck.
Ed Cregger
#20
Thread Starter

Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Ellsworth,
WI
Thanks again Ed.
I looked into the walbro carb fuel pump, and quickly got lost. rcu search wasn't cooperating/working. I'll look again today. If I don't go with that (the main advantage I see being cost) I'll probably go with the iron bay regulator. I'm still not sure what I'll do about the tank. I see what you're saying about the baffles, but with the dubro tank I have no idea how to do that. I think it would require a metal tank. And I think I have leak problems now
I'll probably go with a smaller tank I can fit upfront and a regulator/pump.
What do you think about two twin tanks of similar size (16+16)? This would handle the baffle issue without trying to weld up a tank.
Kargo
I looked into the walbro carb fuel pump, and quickly got lost. rcu search wasn't cooperating/working. I'll look again today. If I don't go with that (the main advantage I see being cost) I'll probably go with the iron bay regulator. I'm still not sure what I'll do about the tank. I see what you're saying about the baffles, but with the dubro tank I have no idea how to do that. I think it would require a metal tank. And I think I have leak problems now
I'll probably go with a smaller tank I can fit upfront and a regulator/pump.What do you think about two twin tanks of similar size (16+16)? This would handle the baffle issue without trying to weld up a tank.
Kargo
#23
Thread Starter

Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Ellsworth,
WI
Will do. I think I'll shy away from the walbro carb pump as it might take more figuring out than I want to do. I'll try the 2 oz tanks with an Iron Bay regulator and see how it goes. 32 ounces should be more than enough to get my son and I both some stick time. The 16oz tank will also let us put some more stuff up front which will help w my portly seniors heavy aft end.
Thanks again
Thanks again


