Another glue stick user here. Put it on, cut the piece, peel it off, spread more glue on, use it again. I just cut two fuse sides and two sets of doublers all from one paper pattern used this way, first for the two sides, then cut up some and used twice more for the doublers. If you leave the paper on the wood too long it will become hard to peel off, though.

Nicely done Gene. Very helpful, as usual. As it happens, I just finished doing two copies of an old Tri-R models Mooney 201, one for me and one for a friend. Copying a kit or building from plans is the way to go. And as you said, Don't overthink this stuff, it's pretty simple.

I spent a bit of time going over things yesterday, just fitting parts to the wing before I started gluing. I knew from the last time I built this plane there were some mistakes, like parts not fitting. I couldn't remember what the mistakes were but I found them right away. Then I couldn't remember what I did to correct them. If you line up these ribs to the TE spars it puts your ribs about a 1/2 inch away from the LE and LE spars?? Now I can't remember what I did to fix this problem?? Way too much thinking. Today was 90 degrees and no wind so I went out to the field for some thinking, no reason to allow the blood flowing out my ears to stain my shop floor. I guess I was having too much fun flying and shooting the breeze because nothing really came to me. I sort of forgot to do any thinking!!
When I got home I walked to my shop and SHAZAM!!!!!!!!!! If I moved the ribs to the LE everything fit excapt at the TE. The ribs glue to a sheet and the spar. If I go to the front first I can just move the sheet and TE spars forward and everything fits!! Just makes the wing a little narrower then shown on the plans!!
All plans have errors drawn into them. I go over everything a few times looking for those errors. They are usually found in the wing ribs. Now is the time to make the fix, not after the glue dries.
Not always so simple, if it was, everyone would be building from plans.
Find the mistakes!! If I ever find a set of plans without a mistake they will be the first.

Gray Beard - When you are sanding the parts to shape, shouldn't you sand just to the outside line? That's what I've always done. If you sand to the inside of the pattern line, wouldn't you be making the part on the line side? If the line is say 1/16" all the way around, when you're done sanding, wouldn't the part be 1/8" smaller overall?

FB

Gene,

I appreciate the keep it simple (and cheap!) approach.

If you get a chance to take a picture of the can of glue you used - that would help with the visual when I (we) are at the store looking for the right stuff. I hate buying the wrong thing and then having another $5.00 can of crap that does not work for my needs.

Between "real" jobs, once a long time ago, I worked briefly in a factory that produced men's suits. We used a spray on glue to hold patterns on the stacks of material when we cut pant and jacket parts. What was nice about the glue was that it had a very low tack and it didn't leave any residue on the material. The patterns peeled off easily and were able to be used again without adding more glue. If I could remember exactly what we used and could find it, it would be perfect for cutting airplane parts. Anybody ever heard of this stuff? I think it actually said something about "pattern glue" on the can, but I don't recall for sure as this was nearly twenty years ago.

Many times, the plans that come with a kit do not have all the parts profiled in a way that makes them easy to cut out.

Heree you are Rick, I was going to be a smart ass and take a couple of photos of that stuff you mentioned and tell you it never happens to me. I have so much wrong stuff in my shop but over time it does seem to get used for something.
OK, the lines, that is an age old question and I still don't have the correct answer. If you look at your plans you can see the ink pen lines get fat and thin, usuall on the outside due to the inkers hand pressure. I have tried sanding to the inside and outside of the line and what I discovered was it made no difference as long as you sanded everything the same way. If your off your only off the lines thickness. Your choice, just do them all the same.
Dre, we have been over thnking this silly glue thing to death. One of the problems is keeping the templates attached to the wood during cutting and sanding. If it lifts when you are cutting your kit?? OOPS!!! It happens. I have used contact cement, that's when I had a real problem, it sticks really well. The covering heat gun will remove pretty much any glue and contact cement and heat posed no problem, just more work. This is supposed to be fun and not work. This Duro just works but most any spray mount glue will too.
I think I stated these are builders plans. Very few kit plans ever showed the parts in profile. You buy builders plans from model aviation {AMA} plans service, MAN { model airplane news} plans service, RCM {remote control models} plans service and a host of others. There are people that do nothing else but design and sell plans for planes. Every part needed to build the plane is shown in profile on builders plans.
I save all the kit plans after a build but that's just in case of an OOPS and I need to make repairs. I have been up on a soap box preaching to folks to make templates of every kit they buy. You can build a complete plane with them or just do repairs.
OK, enough about glue. Use what you like, it isn't a big deal. I just happen to have this Duro from something I made for my grand kids. I probably bought it at Michale's when I bought the silver glitter. I tried it on templates and it worked. It isn't going to kill your build if you leave the templates on the wood. Over time I'm sure they will dry up and fall off on there own. Then you just figure out how to get them out of the fuse or do what I would do, ignore them. I don't sweat the small stuff.
Gene
NO MORE SILLY GLUE POSTS!!

Thanks guys.

So far it's just a lazy build, not in any hurry. Did some sanding yesterday and I started to epoxy the tail feathers on. Just put the Hor Stab on a while ago. Sheeting the fuse was a kick. A bit of thick CA and a squirt bottle of water. Last one I built took 6 weeks, so far lazyass has spent 3 months so far. Other then the 2 ounce bottle of the thick CA nothing else has been spent on my kit. The wing took a lot longer then the fuse. with glassing and painting I figure I will be flying it before the summer is over.

I don't glue anything.

I just cut the plans or trace a template. I pin all the paper on wood then hit the thing with a can of colored spray paint.

Paper acts like a taped edge. Been doing it this way forever. Well almost.

Sometimes I'll trace a template with a fine tip pen. I do this with a kit bash because I only need a few parts.

Spray painting the paper template while pinned to the wood, works for me.

Gluing templates is a long past subject, it sort of turned into a poop question. The thread was just to show how easy it is to cut your own kit and people fixated on glue?? It just doesn't mater as long as the parts get cut.
I noticed you do graphics, how well do they stick to paint??

Vinyl material, which is used for graphics and lettering, is applied to painted surfaces all the time.

Painted cars, trucks, boats, trailers even window glass!

Vinyl is also applied to gel-coat finishes.

I use the same vinyl for model graphics. No secrete about that!

Just visit my RCU Gallery. There's plenty of models that sport my graphics. All applied by the builder.

Such talent they have!

<span style="font-family: Comic Sans MS">charles, do you have a website? i've sent pics to a couple of places, and never received any responses. i'm quite displeased with the customer service. perhaps i couple PM you a couple of photos of what i need with deminsions and the overall of the plane scheme, and we could chit-chat about it?</span>

4 mounths later the plane is built. Last one I built took 6 weeks but that was then and this is now. I just started the glassing process today but someone wanted to know the weight after glassing so I hung it on a scale. Just the plane, no gear or anything in it came in right at 6 pounds. When I finish the glassing and before paint I will weigh it again to see how much weight the glassing adds. An 80 inch plane at 6 pounds isn't bad, lighter then most ARFs and it's fully sheeted, has real glue and epoxy not to mention it is all top grade wood. Keep in mind I also had to make mods and use aircraft ply so it would hold up to the Brison 2.4 gas engine. For a glow four stroke it could have been even lighter. How easy is this. A big plane for about $100.00. Covering would be fast and easy, I could have it in the air in a week.

Cool Gary,

I am very glad to see real Men in this hobby still :>) As for the ARF bunch, they can have em.
I love to build airplanes from plans myself, been in RC for years myself..

Great Post Gary,, hope to se more like this one..

Happy Landings

Chip

Crash,

I'm never the first guy they call or pitch. Still I've been doing graphics, as long as if not, longer than most of them. 17 years.

I can't afford to advertise and my website is outdated. My website doesn't tell the entire story as to my offerings.

My work can be seen in my RCU Gallery.

I'm here to serve modelers, just PM me or send an e-mail.

Click on "Avaiojet" my website is there.

"Model graphics from a Model Builder." 58 years of it.

Gene, I'm really enjoying this thread. Even though thinking hurts my head too, I'm learning something in spite of myself. The pictures you're showing of the finished pieces, before assembly, look like factory cut stuff. Mine probably won't turn out that good, but I guess you get better at it after doing it a few times. I like it.

Finally finished except for the detail work, I need bigger tires, spinner and batteries. This was built in my spare time, I no longer spend 10 hours a day out in the shop. Last time I built this plane it took me about 6 weeks. Total cost for an 80 inch Sukhoi 29 1/4 scale, right about $200.00. It pays to build from plans!! Weight of the plane was 6 pounds, then it went to 7 after glassing then up to 8 with the paint. Plans are an open bay wing, I sheeted the complete plane. The plane was designed for a 1.20 four stroke glow engine. I did some design work on the plans and went with a Brison 2.4 40cc gasser. It can be built cheaper if you just build as drawn.
A kit today for a little 60 size plane is $200.00+ so buying plans and cutting your own kit makes a lot of sense.
WHERE HAVE ALL THE KITS GONE???? They are as close to you as any plans service.
Gene

This is the second Sukhoi 29 mini me has piloted He has also flown a 35% extra. I don't throw anything away, it can be used in another plane sooner or later like this canopy and landing gear. I guess I could have gone to the toy store and gotten a nice dolly to use as a pilot.

Wow, that looks great! Love the pattern on the wings.

Alan

Thanks, it took weeks to mask off!!! I went to the Halloween Store and bought a cheap pair of fish net stockings, put them over the wing then did a light shoot of black over the wing. Still can't talk the wife into wearing them though.
Because the engine is gas I was able to use cheap Latex paint bought at any hardware store. I still have to stripe the bottom but I haven't decided to use a small roller or feather it ion with an air brush. I'm thinking of a silver pin stripe between the yellow and black then rivets too. I have time until I get the money for the batteries and other minor things. All it takes is time and money!!

I was wondering how you did that. Looks like snake skin. Wifey won't come around huh? lol

We are old farts, one of us thinks older then the other. The idea was a rip off of NUB painting a tank on American Chopper for a snake skin look. This was the first time I tried it. I keep trying new things on every plane I build. If I wanted to do a clear coat {weight} it would really pop.