MrTooTall

Hello everyone,

This is my first post here. Not only that but it will also be my first build. I do not have expirence with building these so please do not slam me if Imake a mistake. Iam 18 years old and I am not all that of a builder, Iam a systems admistrator/programmer by trade.

For this build I am going to be using the Great Planes Super Sportster 60 Kit for $130 from a local hobby shop.
Along with the kit I bought:
1- 30 Min Epoxy
1- Thin Epoxy
1- Gap Filler
1- CAActivator
100- Hobby Pins


To start I built a work table using the following:
1- 4x8 Roofing Plywood $10
2- 2x8 Foam Insulation Board $17
4- 2x4x10 Wood ForLegs $10
2- Saw Horse Kits $12
1- Smooth Floor Tile $0

Ihad the floor tile laying around from redoing my floors.
I placed the foam insulation board onto of the plywood. Cutting out a section for the floor tile and my supplies. Cut the boards into a 4 foot length and two 3 foot lenth. Used the wood to create sa*****s that are 3ft tall.
I will post pictures when Iget home tonight.

I glued the stab together and some other peices. Ido have a question, Iam going to sand the elevator so that it is a <, my idea was to get a peice of wood and create a custom sanding block and attach sand paper to it so that all my sanding is the same for both elevators. And the same thing for the stab Iwant to make a ( in a peice of wood so that It will be the same all the way around. Does this sound good? Any better ideas? One last thing, what grit do you guys think Ishould be using for the edges?

GarySS

My Feedback: (13)

Welcome to kit building. Ask as many questions as you need during construction.

Your subject is perhaps at a higher level than what one should attempt first time, but have at it!!!. Of prime importance is to build the wing straight, get the fuselage straight lengthwise, make sure your horizontal and vertical tail surfaces are square with the fuselage and ultimately with the wing. You should have maybe a couple of little bubble levels to help. I like to use some thin lengths of wire to aid in measuring equal distances from wing tips to tail tips. (Wire doesn't stretch)

First, I would make sure your building table is absolutely flat from all directions. That is essential in getting a straight wing and probably fuselage. A steel 36" straight edge or yard stick laid on the surface from all directions should tell you how it is.
If the foam insulation board is of the soft variety your stick pins might not hold. I tried one once and discarded the foam after one project. I would recommend a fiberboard to hold pins quite well.

Most modelers would say don't sand tail surfaces to sharp or nearly sharp trailing edge tip. Just round them off. This is to reduce the chance for flutter when flying. I DID taper my tail surfaces on my first trainer and didn't have any problem so I don't know who is really right. Your Sportster will probably fly faster than my trainer though.

Two recommendations specifically regarding the Sportster. On the little vertical wing landing gear blocks, glue thin ply reinforcing strips on the edges to keep them from splitting along the grain due to shocks from landing. Spread out the elevators (you will have to alter the construction somewhat) to allow the rudder to swing out a little more each way (maybe a half an inch) Refer to the plan to see how restrictive the stock rudder throw is.

Here is picture of my Sportster I had years ago:

MrTooTall

Thank you very much GarySS,

I noticed that this was going to be a tough run. I was unsure about buying the foam board but to my surpise my pins hold very well. I didnt get the cheapest one, Igot the pink board. And it seems to be tough enough for the pins. Ill give sanding a try tonight.

mikeh251

I lay that pink stuff on a flat surface and build straight wings. Hey, welcome to the hobby young buck and enjoy it!!!!! Lots of good info out there and in here at this website. I know it costs money, but the flight sims for computer r/c practice is maybe the most valuable tool there is.

huck1199

Pick up a bottle of TitebondII at the hardware store.  CA is good but can be hard to use in certain situations.

KitBuilder

I use upsdie down 2x4 cieling tiles for my building surface once I have a flat surface established.

I have the Super Sportster 60 waiting for the next build. Post pics if you can. I plan on kit bashing quite a bit into a 1930's type racer but am interested in seeing how it builds normally.

MrTooTall

Alright thank you guys for your comments. I am having a slight bit of trouble with the landing gear block and the wing. Does the picture I included in this look correct?The directions seamed very vague about the landing gear slot.

Also the sanding idea worked well. Itook an old peice of banboo. and used it curvature with sand paper to round my edges.

KitBuilder,
The pictures I am putting up are probably the worst example of the right way to build it. I am sure I have already messed something up. I hope I didnt.

Oh and ignore the mess on the first picture.I had two other people helping me work on it today.
Thanks again guys.

SeamusG

TooTall - keep that accelerator away from your CA. Just the fumes can ruin the CA.

Good luck on your build and thanks for the build thread.

TomCrump

Welcome to the building side of the hobby ! The GP Sportster 60 is a great model, both to build, and to fly.

You may want to look at this thread: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=947643 It may answer a few questions for you, if you have a problem.

KitBuilder

I saw your LG question in another thread in begiinners i think. I answered based on my experience over there and had some ohter questions as well. Take ke a look... going forward you can just post all your stuff here.. makes it easier.

There are many ways to skin a cat in this hobby. While often there is a right way to do something, just as often it can be a matter of preference. As you build... and with help you'll figure out your "preferences". You seem highly organized and detailed.. to very good traits in model building!

KitBuilder

Tom...I was looking through the thread quick and saw your comments about taxiing . One reason I went with the sportster instead of the 4star was due to the gear locatin in the wing which would assist the bashing into a golden age racer. Was takeoff squirrely as well needing lots of rudder

KitBuilder

error

gunneredwards

My Feedback: (4)

from my memory when i built my ss.... that is the way to install the landing gear blocks. Just make sure when you drill through the long block to be straight with the smaller block and centered where the wire sits. I remember putting the small block on the other side and drilling the hole and then test fitting with it on the proper side and glueing then. I also remember glueing some extra bass wood around the small block to the rib to beef it up, I had snapped mine off a couple of times as this was my 2nd plane. Had to recover the wing a couple of times and finally installed extra supports. This is a great flying plane and I loved the taildragger configuration. I never have had much luck with trike gear.

biam

WOW!! You have a lot on the ball for someone your age, I was doing my best just to get out of high school at 18! welcome to building, you came to the right place for a lot of good advice. My super sportster is the easiest plane to fly and land in the hanger, I'm sure you will enjoy both experiences, building and flying it. covered mine in a military theme, olive drab on top, white on the bottom. .52 magnum f.s for power.

f16man

The ss was the plane I flew between my trainer to my byron f16 ducted fan in 1980. It is a great flying plane but with a bit of cg tweeking it can be a plane to keep you on your toes and realy hone your skills, mine started with a K&B 60 but soon got replaced with a os 77 ducted fan engine and was a bit crazy at well over the 100mph mark! Anyway build her straight and light as possible and you will love that SUPER SPORTSTER........

757jonp

My Feedback: (48)

Fond memories here of the SS 40 I built in the early 80's. I flew that thing until it just plum wore out and later on built a SS 60 to replace it. Only gripe I had with them was the placement of the landing gear. I solved it by mounting aluminum gear on the forward wing bolts, worked great.

shd3920

Hope you didn't glue the landing gear rails and blocks in yet . . .

This is based on the Great Planes Super Sportster 40 manual (I believe the 60 size is exactly the same). On page 8, you were to laminate wing ribs W-2 and W-3 with doublers LGD. These doublers are to hold the landing gear rails into the cutouts formed in step D2..

Page 8, step D2 you are to cut out the appropriate notch into each W2 and W3 ribs based on whether you wanted tricycle gear or tail dragger, there are separate notches to cut out for each version. The landing gear rails are glued into these notches. The landing gear rails protrude enough for sheeting to be added later.

On page 10 of the manual, step D2 you glue the landing gear rails into the slots, then add the grooved landing gear blocks in position on the inside (bottoms) of the rails and against rib W-2. Then you drill the holes to accept the landing gears.

Hope this helps.

SeamusG

There are few original approaches to building techniques. These pics are from a Bridi Killer Chaos build.

pic 1 - overall approach (either for tail dragger or tri-cycle approach)
pic 2 - rib with both options noted
pic 3/4 - rib doublers for the tail dragger approach
pic 5 - new doublers (thicker ply than with kit) positioned and fitted
pic 6/7 - doublers glued in
pic 8 - located on a wing jig 'cause the Chaos wing is tappered top and bottom
pic 9 - LGplate epoxied in w/ 30 min epoxy.

MrTooTall

Thank you for your post kitbuilder. Here are some pictures. Ignore the rib number 3 because it is actually rib 2.

KitBuilder

Ok.. your good.... be sure to put the hardwood tri-stock where it shows on the left.

These are nice plans... you can see for the traildragger option that due to the angle of the main gear block due to its location in the front curve of the rib... that the bottom hole is in the back and the they show the "through" hole farther forward. Also shows is the 'side" due to the slight angle and the partial side of the tri-stock. This won't affect the drilling of the hole... that hole is not angled.. it's still straight down. Angled folward following installation.

As you put the bottom sheeting on near the end... it will be good to slightly curve the bottom of the hardwood block to match the the curvature of the rib. In fact.. this is easier to do before gluing in position in the wing due to the hardwood taking more effort which can damage the softer balsa sheeting. If already glued in ... masking tape sunugged up to the block will help protect the softer balsa sheeting.

larryak

My Feedback: (32)

Way to go guys! Your help and responses (especially Gary ss) are what this hobby/sport are all about. Hang in there Mr. Too Tall. I can tell that you are going to make it. Keep us posted. Larry

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

Looks great so far, you're gonna love your Super Sportster. I flew my SS 40 this morning. Although not a trainer, it is a great 2nd plane. And a good first kit if you pay attention to the details. After you finish this one and get comfortable flying it get yourself an Ultra Sport 60 and you'll be hooked forever.

KaP2011
Ultra Sport Brotherhood #110

jmpups

My Feedback: (1)

This is the best thread I have ever read. You have made me happy to know, first off that there are new modelers that want to build A kit not an ARF. And secondly to know that you are supporting your local Hobby Shop. This Hobby needs more of You. Thanks, jmpups.

groovy67

My Feedback: (1)

MrTooTall,my first kit was a ss 40(1986) and it was a great flying plane...wish I still had it.
Just take your time and you'll do fine.If you can fly a trainer you should have no problems with this plane....stable and lands slow.
Great Plane kits and Top Flight kits have great instructions and are reasonably easy to build.

Good luck with the build and hope you enloy this crazy addiction as much as the rest of us that have succommed to RC...lol.


John

MrTooTall

Thank you everyone for the support. Today I assembled one of the wings. Its drying right now. Not sure if it is correct but Ill post pictures tomorrow.

I am having a hell of a time with the motor mount and the firewall 1. Because the schematic, the wood, and the mount all do not fit together. As the schmatic is wrong. I will post pictures of this tomorrow as well. Im not sure if the motor mount that is included with kit, the firewall are supposed to not be correct to the schematic.

Thanks again!