gorilla glue vs. epoxy
#26

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ORIGINAL: fred985
are you trying to say some people dont have the brains God gave the apes ?
are you trying to say some people dont have the brains God gave the apes ?
#30
Not long ago, I posted on the forums that I tried GG and was shocked at how bad it turned out. Since then, I have actually followed the directions and followed others advise on how to use it correctly. I would not use anything else to glue on wing skins now. Ive used it in framing, firewalls, sheeting. Some places I would probably still use epoxy. But for the most part. I am converted to GG. You just have to learn to use it SPARINGLY lol. Thats my two cents and Im not that smart :P
wbg
wbg
#31

My Feedback: (59)
ORIGINAL: <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); ">Old</span>ScaleGuy
Gorilla glue = [:'(]
Just my 2 cents.
Gorilla glue = [:'(]
Just my 2 cents.
ORIGINAL: <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); ">Old</span>Rookie
I agree with OldScaleGuy.
Gorilla glue is the worst for our hobby use. What a pain in the azz.
This stuff isn't worth the effort it takes to use it properly.
Greg
I agree with OldScaleGuy.
Gorilla glue is the worst for our hobby use. What a pain in the azz.
This stuff isn't worth the effort it takes to use it properly.
Greg
ORIGINAL:<span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); "> Old</span>Rookie
There are no uses for Gorilla Glue that you listed, that couldn't be done <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 255); ">better, faster, as strong if not stronger, and with less hastle</span>....using alphetic, cyanoacrylate, or epoxy glue.
I can't even think of a use in modeling where Polyurethane type of glue is specific to.
Greg
There are no uses for Gorilla Glue that you listed, that couldn't be done <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 255); ">better, faster, as strong if not stronger, and with less hastle</span>....using alphetic, cyanoacrylate, or epoxy glue.
I can't even think of a use in modeling where Polyurethane type of glue is specific to.
Greg
http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform...wing/index.htm<br type="_moz" />
#32
Wahoo, I find your last post both offensive and off based. First off, I've used GG for projects around the house and will admit that it's a good product. That being said, I've found that the cleaning required to remove the excess foam MAKES IT UNSUITABLE FOR MY MODELING USE. Just because others feel the same way doesn't mean that they're wrong and you're right as you seem to be implying in my opinion. As for your comment about telling beginners to use dope and tissue over Monokote for strength and ease of use, how do you know any of those products will still be around in 20 or 30 years or even kits other than ARFs, for that matter, when you get that much so called experience. What you also need to remember is that it's easy to belittle others when you disagree, it's hard to show others that you're the one to listen to, especially with posts like the one you just made.
#33
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From: Brisbane, AUSTRALIA
Wahoo, I find your last post both hilarious and spot on.
However, having used both GG and epoxy in model building and full scale boat building, i'd have to advise that epoxy (handled properly) is easier to use and more reliable Than GG (handled properly) for the application proposed at the start of this thread.
Yojoelay
However, having used both GG and epoxy in model building and full scale boat building, i'd have to advise that epoxy (handled properly) is easier to use and more reliable Than GG (handled properly) for the application proposed at the start of this thread.
Yojoelay
#34

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From: Crown Point, IN
Just a tip from an "old timer" on extending the life of CA type glues. When finished using the glue wipe excess from tip with paper towel,
gently tap a bottom corner on a hard surface to get glue back to the bottle and then put the nozzle back on as tightly as possible. the
nozzle will not clog, the glue stays in liquid form, and the nozzle is not "impossible to remove.
The oldtimer who taught this and many other "tricks" to me is gone now but some of his glue is still usable after many years.
gently tap a bottom corner on a hard surface to get glue back to the bottle and then put the nozzle back on as tightly as possible. the
nozzle will not clog, the glue stays in liquid form, and the nozzle is not "impossible to remove.
The oldtimer who taught this and many other "tricks" to me is gone now but some of his glue is still usable after many years.
#35
I tried using Gorila Glue Instant because it was at the grocery store in a bottle large enough that two squirts and it wasn't empty. Then I went ot the LHS and bought some useful CA - Gorila Glue Instant quite simply is not instant! And it's more expensive than generic slow CA.
I did find some of the brown foam type GG at Home Depot because "some day" I am going to skin a foam wing and am glad I read the above where it talks about using it in places that might have some oversize holes and on foam. But the white, as far as I can tell, is the same as Elmers and more expensive - and I wouldn't use Elmers white on a model anyway. Actually, I don't use Elmers white on anything any more but love the wood (yellow) on many things, especially on repairing CA'd joints that won't take CA any more.
I did find some of the brown foam type GG at Home Depot because "some day" I am going to skin a foam wing and am glad I read the above where it talks about using it in places that might have some oversize holes and on foam. But the white, as far as I can tell, is the same as Elmers and more expensive - and I wouldn't use Elmers white on a model anyway. Actually, I don't use Elmers white on anything any more but love the wood (yellow) on many things, especially on repairing CA'd joints that won't take CA any more.
#36
I use the regular white GG and I think it grabs quicker than Elmers and Titebond. I can't use CA so GG wood glue is my go to glue. I do use the GG foaming glue to skin wings. I scrape most of it off the skin with a credit card. Mist some water in the air and wave the core through it then apply the skin. Works for me. I don't have any clean up as I didn't use the whole bottle on the skin. you need a very thin layer and it works great. That is just my penny's worth.
#37
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From: Bogota, COLOMBIA
ORIGINAL: Warbirdguy
Not long ago, I posted on the forums that I tried GG and was shocked at how bad it turned out. Since then, I have actually followed the directions and followed others advise on how to use it correctly. I would not use anything else to glue on wing skins now. Ive used it in framing, firewalls, sheeting. Some places I would probably still use epoxy. But for the most part. I am converted to GG. You just have to learn to use it SPARINGLY lol. Thats my two cents and Im not that smart :P
wbg
Not long ago, I posted on the forums that I tried GG and was shocked at how bad it turned out. Since then, I have actually followed the directions and followed others advise on how to use it correctly. I would not use anything else to glue on wing skins now. Ive used it in framing, firewalls, sheeting. Some places I would probably still use epoxy. But for the most part. I am converted to GG. You just have to learn to use it SPARINGLY lol. Thats my two cents and Im not that smart :P
wbg
Yet you very rudely told us not to say anything to try to convince you otherwise when you irrationally tried it at reinforcing joints from the outside, not thinking of reading the instructions first. As I said then, it's the best to glue skins to foam cores as it expands and greatly increases the area, specially on the weaker and porous foam. Yep, I agree with your last statement[>:]
You wrote:
"The wing was already glued up with carpenters wood glue, Im not a beginer I just put some around the joints in the corners and on one section of sheeting I used it between the ribs and sheeting. Once again, I am not a beginer, just first and last time GG will be used for anything in my shop. My choice. does not mean you guys didnt have good luck with it. I just dont like it and not anything that can be said about it pertaining to RC will convince me otherwise. So save all yoru comments on how I did it wrong to yourself."
Then,
"Uh, I have skinned a fair share of wings in my life. Been building for 30 years. Never had an issue with it till I posted here
The small area I did try the GG you could not get a card into. As far as "if it looks wet, to much glue, and if it looks dry, you need more???? WTH LOL. What if it looks...damp? LMAO Too complicated and I still see no benefits.
I think the OP got his answer. Seems Gorrilla Glue sales reps or investers have hijacked this thread now. Im not using the stuff on any of my planes. You can write your long, foggy, unclear, responses till you pass away of old age. Not going to change my mind
As far as Im concerned, anything wrote about GG and foam wings is just Blah Blah Blah Blah
Epoxy is the way, unless you dont know how to use it properly. If you did, you would not be looking for another glue that would require no intellegence to use."
#39
Banned
"Ill respond later, gezzz all that typing and it timed out and lost it all....you would think the webmaster would have fixed that problem by now. "
I use "notepad", type my message, then cut and paste. No timeout problems then. I also got tired of having to retype everything.
Les
I use "notepad", type my message, then cut and paste. No timeout problems then. I also got tired of having to retype everything.
Les
#40

My Feedback: (18)
A lot of modelers are using Gorilla Glue, but I haven't read any method of cleaning the junk off fingers. At least soap & water works with the carpenter glues and alcohol does the job with epoxy. Controlling the runoff on polyurethane is also problematic. I've used it, cursed it and watched it dry out, so I'll stick with the alphatic resins, CA and epoxies.
Bob
Bob
#41
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From: Bogota, COLOMBIA
Yes, I haven't found a solvent to clean up either, I just remove as much as I can with a paper towel, then justwait for it to dry and peel it off my hands, easy but hardly ideal. As for the expanded glue out of the joint, it sands as easily as balsa when completely dry so no problem there
#42
Again, read the directions. Use mineral spirits to remove excess and to clean hands and tools. Follow the manufacturers directions and you have very little problems, and another tool in yourbagof tricks.No salesman here,use what ever floats your boat, but some should not be knocking something they don't know how to useproperly and trying to sound like they are the authority on all things justbecause they have been building for xxx years. I know lots of people who have been doing it wrong forxxx years.

ORIGINAL: colmo-RCU
Yes, I haven't found a solvent to clean up either, I just remove as much as I can with a paper towel, then justwait for it to dry and peel it off my hands, easy but hardly ideal. As for the expanded glue out of the joint, it sands as easily as balsa when completely dry so no problem there
Yes, I haven't found a solvent to clean up either, I just remove as much as I can with a paper towel, then justwait for it to dry and peel it off my hands, easy but hardly ideal. As for the expanded glue out of the joint, it sands as easily as balsa when completely dry so no problem there
#43

My Feedback: (18)
raptureboy, it's all just opinions. I didn't knock the product, it has its uses, but it doesn't present itself well for me in building aircraft. Can you put a name to the mineral spirits? I've used alcohol, lacquer thinner and acetone. I agree, it's easy to sand and I've used it to repair foam for that reason, but I'm not about to sand a joint I just glued because I couldn't control the ooze. Epoxy works great, does not need to be, and should not be clamped tight because it is a contact adhesive and relies on a thin ribbon to secure the joint.
Bob
Bob
#44

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From: Park Ridge, NJ
I tried using GG on a 40% Radiowave Extra and it failed. Perhaps for smaller applications where we are not dealing with the heavy banging 2 cycle gas engine, but I would never recommend its use for any firewall in a giant scale plane.
#45

My Feedback: (81)
ORIGINAL: OldScaleGuy
Gorilla glue = [:'(]
Just my 2 cents.
Gorilla glue = [:'(]
Just my 2 cents.
I would NEVER recommend it for load bearing r structural applications except on maybe small glow powered aircraft and lower (electric)
Jeff
#46

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From: Prior Lake,
MN
ORIGINAL: Gray Beard
Relax, some products are just beyond the use of some people?? In this case I think perhaps the Gorilla glue may have out thought the user? Things like that have been know to happen.
Relax, some products are just beyond the use of some people?? In this case I think perhaps the Gorilla glue may have out thought the user? Things like that have been know to happen.
Typical fan boy response. Are you a fan boy Gray Beard?
I have had good success with Gorilla Glue. I never said once that I had problems using the product, just that it wasn't worth the trouble to use the awful stuff. I've used it to glue parts of two MoJo 60 planes, and to laminate.
I have found that cyanoacrylates, alphetic resins, and epoxy are all generally stronger than needed for model building. My reply to the OP was intended to point out that all of the glues we use are strong enough for his use, and that polyurethane glue will work as well, but why bother? It is a pain in the azz to use.
I guess I don't care for your condescending remarks about my perceived inability to use glue properly. It is not flattering to you, and shows your ignorance. Belittling people only shows your ignorance, and not the person you felt compelled to put down.
When it gets down to it, I don't give a damn what you use for glue, but you have to realize that other people may not always share your opinion of a products worth.
Just saying

Greg
#47
Gosh I think we all need to lighten up. What difference does it make what kind of glue a builder uses. If you don't like the product don't use it.



