Builders:
Has anyone out there CA'd wire into the inner control rod tube and made it stay? Seems if the wire were cut off with the threaded end protruding and about 1/2" of the smooth wire were glued into the inner tube of the same size, it would be an easy solution to hooking up servos, eliminating Z-bends and screw lock connectors that have such a bad rap. Anyone?
Max

I'm not sure I totally understand what you're getting at, but let me give it a whirl. I often screw in a piece of threaded rod into nyrod pushrods backwards. That is, there is about 4 inches of wire inside the inner pushrod with just half the threaded portion sticking out. I then scre on a clevis. Works great for me.

I have CA'd wire into inner rod many times. I just rough up about 1" of the end, add Medium CA to the hole in the rod, and insert the rod (quickly, you only get one chance!)

Others will say that this is a formula for disaster, but for most 40 - 60 size planes, you shouldn't have a problem. I have used this method on some fairly aerobatic planes, I wouldn't use it for everything, but it works just fine for many applications.

Why not buy the 2-56 threaded studs from Sullivan and screw them in? This method has worked very well for me, and I never have to wonder if the glue will hold. I have NEVER had a threaded version come apart, even after a nasty crash.

What he (cknaack) said. Those Sullivan 2-56 studs are the perfect length for geeting good thread bite in the inner rod and clevis. We're speaking of Sullivan inner rod, of course.

Anyway, I make linkages like this a lot on throttle, because the natural flexibility of this system, which makes it less than desirable for a rudder or elevator connection, provides the needed "give" for a linkage to move through the arc of a typical throttle linkage without binding.

Here's the one I just installed on a new ARF...

The only problem with those studs is that for MANY applications, they are too short. For example, if your pushrod exits the fuse, and you still have 4 or 5 inches before it reaches the control surface, you need a longer wire.

You raise a good point for those applications.

If that was the case, I would either solder a clevis on the non threaded end and screw the threaded end into the rod, or bend the non threaded end at 90 degrees and use a goldberg clip at the throttle. In both cases, it will still be more secure than CA, hands down!

cknaack:

I've done it both by turning the threaded end into the inner Nyrod, and using CA to hold the plain wire inside the Nyrod.

Just went into the other room to check, and yes, the rudder and elevator pushrods are both plain wire CA'd into the Nyrods at the tail of my C-3/10 twin. The plane has twin Magnum XL 46 engines, and it's eight years old. So I'd say the wire/Nyrod/CA combination works, and works well.

Bill.

I really appreciate all the input from you folks. I love the idea of soldering a clevis on the non threaded end of a rod, but I understand that causes static in the radio, or it MAY cause static. I also love the idea of threading the Sullivan threaded rods into both the nyrod and the clevis, but that is very limiting as to length. Both MinnFlyer and cknaack have given thumbs up on taking a 2-56 rod, cutting it to length, and CA'ing the plain end into the nyrod, leaving the threads for use in a nylon clevis at the servo horn. Also kind of contemplating the 90 degree bend on the non threaded end of a rod cut to length and using the old Goldberg keeper at the servo. I don't like the appearance that gives, but it might be one of the really good solutions. Thank all you folks.
Max

"I love the idea of soldering a clevis on the non threaded end of a rod, but I understand that causes static in the radio, or it MAY cause static. "

My soldered clevises attach to plastic servo arms. Metal to plastic causes no RF interference or static. Only metal to metal contact can cause static. If I have a metal clevis and a metal control horn like the throttle of an engine I use a ball joint.

John

I use the long threaded rod and cut it to length for what I want. The solder ends won't cause static in the radio. They have their uses too. Nice part is, we have a lot of options.