WacoNut

No not really, we have a freeze fly on the 1st Sunday of the new year. I will attend that but other than that I will be in building mode until spring breaks.

VincentJ

Question for you Cavoodle. I am working on the wing tip, specifially the part of the tip that transitionsto the end of the aileron. I have added the 3/8" block and now it's time to shape it. The plans are a bit vague here and one could accomplish this different ways.I could extend the tip of the wingto conform with the line of the aileron, but the plan doesn't show that. Wondering how you transitioned yours. A close up of that area would be helpful.

SunDevilPilot

Nice job on the servo mounting bracket....  And thanks for the compliment. 

do335a

My mistake.

Right time wrong place.

Removed.

Keep up the great wok on the Ryan. I've got a reduced size copy of that plan. Looks like lots of building for a vern nice model in the end.

VincentJ

I've been busy in the shop today. I spent most of the day deciding how I wanted to transition the aileron tipto the wing tip. As I said in an earlier post, the plans are vague in how this is accomplished. This is my interpretation of how I thought it should be done as you can see in the photos. It took quite a bit of time getting the fit just right

Anotherchallenge was to hinge the ailerons and flaps using Robart hinge points. Ihave used these hinges inthe past with great success, however this was my first attempt at using them in a "scale" type situation. I had already decided which bays that I wanted them to go in. You can see that I added the necessary blocking these hinges need . I drilledall of the holesusing the drill press to ensure all holes were straight. Now it's time to installthe hinges...each hingehad to be sunk pretty deeply into the aileron leading edge. I first marked/scribed with a pencil the hinge centerpoint visible in the photo. Next was setting up a simple back stop on the drill press to act as a depthgage to ensure all 6 holes were sunk at the same depth. I used the small drum sander that comeswith a Dremelgrinder that I'm sure everyone is familiar with chucked in the drill press..After all holes were countersunk I had to sligtly further enlarge the first 1/8"of the hole by handusing a drill bit.This is done because if you notice on the Robart hinges they are slightly tapered near the knuckle end. If you ommit this step the hinge will never seat properly. The holes in the wing's trailing edgedid not need any further enlarging due to the fact that the hinge standsproud of the trailing edgefor it to work correctly in this application.

yel914

A really excellent job on the aileron hinging. It's nice to see good craftsmanship is alive and well! My own Ryan is still in the box, but this all looks very enticing.

swift bill

It's been 25 years since my Ryan build and I still remover the wing building. Are you going to put in the wingtip hand holds? Your wing looks great. What are your plans for covering the wing? I used coverite mica film and k and b epoxy paint. Looks great very difficult to repair.

A note on winter flying: My shop is ready to go for our long Alaskan winter, but I will fly on any windless day when the temperature is above 20 . Here is a clip of our last winter fun fly

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zqC1d...2&feature=plcp

WacoNut

Beautiful country up there but watching the video made me want to go grab a warm blanket
I think my winter flying will be on days above 50. I don't see myself doing much flying as I have too much repair work to do. I was really tough on a couple planes this year.

VJ,
You going Solartex or Koverall?
Later!!
Anthony

swift bill

Summer flying here is not much higher then 60 up here. 21st century coverite is an excellent choice for scale applications. I buy in 15 rolls for the best value. I am recovering my Ryan wing and tail surfaces in 21 century coverite. Vincent If you are doing the Gosney paint scheme the checkerboard will be fun. I used Liquid masking film. Many coats sprayed on and marked off with a ball point pen, the trick was cutting the checks out without cutting through the fabric.

VincentJ

ye1914, I hope this build has inspired you to get started on your own Ryan!

Swift bill, good eye on catching the lack of hand holds. I'm not going to put them on. I'll be using Solartex for my covering and probably going to use Klass Kote epoxy paint. I still haven't 100% decided on the color scheme, but it will be one of the three I have posted earlier.

VincentJ

Spent most of the day at the flying field, but I did manage to put in a few braces in the aileron and triangle stock in the wing tip. Wanted to give these areas a bit more strength.

VincentJ

In an attempt to shure up the landing gear block what I have done was to reinforce each of the four ribs that support the landing gear block with 1/32" birch ply cut to fit the profile of each rib. Each piece was glued to the inboard side of each rib.The weight penalty is minimal and from the reasearch that I have done this area has been prone todamage on less than perfect landings.

swift bill

I can confirm that reinforcing the gear block area will save you a lot of grief. I have started recovering my wing and the only place that needs repair is the gear block area.

VincentJ

Thanks swift bill. This plane certainly has it weakness' and I am trying to eliminate or at least reduce the chances of problematic occurences.

On the same theme I have spent quite a bit of time reinforcing the landing gear mounts. I have added 1/4" balsa stock to support and craddle the mounts in three of the four ribs, this increases the glue area making it a much stronger connection. Additionally, I installed shear webbing in that area making a very strong box frame. (Note: the grainon the shear webbingwas installed vertically for maximum strength) The landing gear mount block at this time is only sitting in its newmount, it is not yet epoxied in place. The reason I did not place the 1/4" square balsa on the second rib is because there will be a torque block that will be epoxied to the underside of the mount in that area. I believe all of these steps will correct / strengthen an overlookedarea that was prone for damage.

WacoNut

Looking Good VJ,
My Contender has the same setup for the gear mounting. I apoxied the torque block in place then added a piece of 1/2" tri-stock from the torque block to the gear block for added security. I didn't like the idea of a butt joint keeping the gear from touqing the block loose on a rough landing. 50+ flights and it is holding up very well with some less than perfect landings.
Later!!
Anthony

raptureboy

You guys need to practice your landings some, its called a landing not a smack downLooking good VJ ! Hey did anybody watch the Discovery channel on Sun night where they flew a 727 into the ground using an RC radio. I think they must have been using a JR or Spectrum radioIt was pretty cool, if you didn't see it they wanted to get real crash data without having the plane blow up on impact but just break up so they could recover all the data equipment. Boy did that landing gear go flying! One thing for sure there was no place sitting on the plane that was safer than others, it's all a matter of chance.

Cub Flyer Fresno

Gosh!  Life is just too busy sometimes.  Just getting caught up on this thread again.

Wow VJ!  Super job on the ailerons!  I'm learning a little from this one for sure.  Keep it up, and I'll try to keep up as well.

raptureboy, good quote there.  Sometimes I think I'm definitely in the wrong seat!

Take care,
David

VincentJ

Thanks David, yes life takes us away from our beloved hobby from time to time.....but we all eventually come back.

Last night I glued the right wing ribs to the spars. I didn't include any pictures as I have already documented the procedure on the left side. Once the wing is complete Iwill start-up on the photos again showing how I plan on joining the two wing halves together. The right wing is going together much quicker now that all the details have been worked out on the left side. So far I am very pleased with the results.

Since you are waitingfor me to complete the right hand side, I thought it would be interesting and fun toshare what your favorite building tool is with everyone. Be sure to include a photo if possible. I will post mine this evening as I am already at work at the moment, so how about it guys....

VincentJ

OK, here's my nominee: my X-acto electric pencil sharpener ( Model #19xxCN ). I really like a sharp pencil, it helps me make accurate joinery, this pencil sharpener gets pencils the sharpest! I'll bet a lot of you have the old type hand crank pencil sharpener that you mount to walls, similar to the one I still have as a back-up. You can see the difference between the two pencils in the photo. Both are #2 pencils that just came out of each respective sharpener. You decide....

stuntflyr

Survival location had a big differential as I remember the show. 4G's in the back seats and 18 in the front? Big difference. Chip Shanle is my co-pilot! Super guy, does lot's of neat stuff and tells my F-4 stories all day.
Chris...

Neddy191

My Feedback: (2)

This is one of my favorites that I've been using on my current cub build. It makes fine tuning angles and keeping them square top to bottom very easy.

raptureboy

Still a matter of chance. Just depends on what part hits first and how many people are on board, wheels up,down,etc...If they were really trying to get some accurate data then they should have simulated more of typical plane loaded with luggage, fuel, etc... Still it was interesting to watch. My favorite tool; that one is a tough one. Hmmm... toss up between my dremel and my servo tester which lets me set up all my servos without a radio. Sorry, no picture I'm at work.

OldScaleGuy

My Feedback: (2)

How do you set this to make sure the angle is correct?

box car

my hands

Neddy191

My Feedback: (2)

Get the initial angle by eyeball, test fit, sand a few strokes, test fit, sand a few strokes. Usually only takes 30 seconds to get the angle perfect and the joint fit tightly.