I have an old Hanger 9 ARF (I mean old) that is built like a tank, that came attached to and engine I bought (80" wingspan). I decided to clean it up and get it flying again. ( I have seen it fly so I know it is possible :P ) I have question on where to get or how to make hardware to mount the wing struts to the bottom of the wing . It is a once piece wing and doesn't appear to structurally need the wing supports. It is reinforced at the mounting points so was built to have something. The previous owner tried to make some crude ones struts so I don't have the originals to pattern off. I fashioned replacements but need to make a good mounting system. Any Ideas ?

Sounds like it's a high-wing plane, like a Cub. I use ball-and-socket type fasteners (I can't think of the name) used on control linkages. They are quick and easy to assemble/disassemble, and hold very well.

My H9 40-Cub uses some tabs that are mounted through a slot in the side of the fuse. The tab that fits into this slot would be easily fabricated. If you check out the manual (link below) You would have to put a 'sleeper' inside the fuse for the tabs to mount on and screw in to. Check out page 15, Step 1 (lower right of the page) and continued on page 16. It's not that good a description, I know but you can see a better view of the tabs in the upside-down fuse view on Page 22, Step 5 and on Page 30, Step 8.

The system on this Cub is more elaborate than the one that you probably need. And, if you're thinking what I'm thinking that you're thinking, you cannot buy the Strut set by itself (the manual is misleading). TO get those, you would need to buy an entire wing set.

Just my $.02

http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...arf-HAN4000#t6

Bob

Oh yes I'm sorry its a .40 sized J3 cub (80" wing) .Do you mean like the ones here http://shop.dubro.com/c/aircraft_pus...s?pp=12&pg=1Do you have a picture ?I did fabricate Tabs mounts to mount on the fuselage similar to the ones shown in the link you recommended. I just put the tabs on the outside and crewed into blind nuts glued in to the fuselage .

Yes, the 2-56 will be fine. Fitting the ball at the wing and fuselage will need some ingenuity as the threads are short, but can be done. There are probably hard points already there, you could just epoxy them on instead of using a nut. <div>
</div><div>N1edm's method will work too. More than one way to skin that cat!</div>

There is nothing faster to install and remove wing struts than the old style snap method.
No tools required.
It also make the struts working struts and not just aestetics.

Zor

I made aluminum tabs that extend just past the fusealage sides that are sandwiched between fuse and LG. A hole in tab matches a hole in the end of the strut and I 2-56 bolt together.

Great Planes sells replacement wing struts for their 81" J-3 cub for less than $20 a pair. Check for them @ Tower Hobbies. Should be easy to adapt to any Cub in that size range.

So I'll bite. What's the old style snap method

I think he is referring to a screw mounted nylon tab that has a slot in it with an enlarged area in the slot a screw or rod "snaps" into. I use these on all wing struts and they are indeed very fast and simple to use. I usually only use them on one end. On the other end I use a 1/16 inch brazing rod that slides into a piece of nyrod in the wing or fuse. This allows the strut to float a bit if the wing flexes.

Taxus812,

You will not get an indigestion from this even if you bite .

Think of an ordinary snap like often seen on parkas, jackets, lady's dresses.
Available in many sizes. You snap it in and snap it out with a light force.
The direction of that force is obvious.
Now if you apply a force at 90 degrees to the snap in - snap out force the snap will not unsnap, wil not come out.

Simply use your imagination how you install the snaps on your model.
I have used both orientation ___struts snap in downward and upward.
Can also be upward at one end and downward at the other end.

Just use snaps of appropriate size for the size of he model and the size of the struts.

Zor