VincentJ

Cliff, good luck on you maiden and don't forget your camera! Murphey, nice job on your Spacewalker. I like the removable hatch idea. Will you use magnets to secure it into place? David, their are a lot of ways to get good results. You've got the right idea, but you may want to make it a bit wider to get a nice flat even surface. Here are some that I use from time to time, ranging from one's you can make to one's you can buy...

acerc

Vincent, those in the first pic came in a kit, do you remember if it was a plane or just a sanding parts kit. Seems like they came with a cub but I can't remember. But I have them, that I remember!! LOL

VincentJ

You are correct Robert, I think they came in my Tiger or Chipmunk Kit, but I can't be sure...

acerc

Seems as though I got mine in a GP cub. Not sure either. But they have been handy, and even replicated at a larger size.

Cub Flyer Fresno

Actually, I don't remember the exact dia., that was just a guess.  I opened it up enough to get the flat surface.  It works.  I'm..... satisfied. 

ovationdave

My Feedback: (16)

For sanding radii on a wing LE, I did the same thing where I drilled multiple size holes (for different thickness wings) and cut it in half, then affixed sanding paper to one of the halves.

I also do my hinge points a bit differently than Vincent in that my openings are usually squared off. I make a sanding tool for that too, that sands a square slot wide enough for the Robart hinge point, to the right depth on the control surface bevel. I then cover them first, and then the control surface.

Thanks,

Dave

hrrcflyer

Now THAT was funny..........................ROFLMAO ! ! ! ! ! ! It's been a long time since I laughed that hard. I've had a pretty rough summer so I really needed that.

Hey Murphy, Your SWII is looking GREAT ! ! ! Keep up the great work......

Hey VJ,

The rate you are going, you're going to have your SW done before you maiden Private Ryan.......LOL

Take care,
David

VincentJ

Robert adding that small extension to the jig turned it from a good tool to a great tool! The tail is completed and after a brief intermission, it will get fitted to the fuse... Can covering be that far away...

acerc

I'm happy to see someone likes what I like. One other thing, I don't like using a big cumbersome hand held drill so I use that little snake/extension thingy that goes on a dremel.

ovationdave

My Feedback: (16)

I love my dremel Stylus. The only issue is that the battery/charger combo quick working a long time ago. About 6 months ago I resurected it with a 3S Lipo and it is back and action, and its AWESOME powerful now. Plus I can use my balancing lipo charger.........nice

Dave

out2pasture

Vincent,

How much gap do you keep between the fin and the rudder on the non hinged edge? I always worry they will rub there because my covering job is too thick on the edges. I guess the same question goes for the other flying surfaces also.

VincentJ

Mike places such as the gap on the top of the fin I will leave about 3/32" gap. When I build the pieces I don't have any gap. Only after I hinge the rudder to fin I sand the gap that I want. Depending on what you are using for covering you can adjust the thickness. On control surfaces I will (in this case) leave as little gap as possible without causing any binding of the control surface that I want during maximum deflection such as up/down or left/right . On my Ryan the gaps between the control surfaces were very wide as I chose to simulate scale. Good question Mike.

VincentJ

Before epoxying he horizontal stabilizer to the fuselage a few things needed to be done first. I took the liberty to round over the perimeter of the stab, as it is easier to do now without fuselage in the way. Next, I once again leveled out the fuse in preparation to check the stabilizer incidence. With that done I clamped the stab temporarily in its proper position and checked its incidence which is supposed to be 1 degree positive. It make no sense whatsoever to epoxy the stab first then after it dries check the incidence. If it was off how would you go about changing it? You can see it's "dead nuts" on at 1 degree... Verifying that the incidence was correct I mixed up some 30 minute epoxy and secured the stab to the fuse permanently.

Cub Flyer Fresno

Yes, from here that looks to be exactly one degree!  Good job VJ.  

Laird SS

I tried using a router table with a proper size round-over bit. Worked great for the straight sections, but of course it wasn't so good on the rounded sections at the top of the rudder and such like.

acerc

Ok brother Vincent, lets see what you've been up to.

VincentJ

OK Robert, since you asked so nice. I have a lot of photos to post. Let's start off with the rudder. After the fin was secured to the fuse with epoxy the instructions want you to first cover the elevator then epoxy it in place before you attatch the rudder. Not liking this method, as I prefer to epoxy all of my control surfaces after the plane has been painted I chose to notch the trailing edge of the fin so the rudder can be assembled after painting.

VincentJ

Sorry won't let me post multiple pics in one post!

VincentJ

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VincentJ

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VincentJ

This photo shows blocking I added in front of the leading edge of the stabilizer so I will be able to secure my covering.

VincentJ

OK, this is the right photo which shows the blocking...what a pain t in the #ss this is...

VincentJ

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VincentJ

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VincentJ

This photo clearly shows the notch that I made in the fin's trailing edge that allows the rudder to be installed at a later time...