spaceworm

I t would be very simple to make a new bracket out of brass and solder a nut onto it as many have done. Alternately there are nuts that have a flange on them that allow swaging like riveting to retain them. I personally do not care for the loose pin and clevis that some ARFs use. I think they may rattle and cause electronic interference. Just my sayin' though.

Sincerely, Richard
Cub Brotherhood #187; Sig 1/4 Cub, H9 100 inch (Gen 1) Cub, GB Anniv Cub
Club Saito #635; Saito 56, 100, 120abc, 130T, 180
Kadet Brotherhood #96; Mk l/II Kadet, Kadet Junior,
Sig Kougar, Sig 1/4 Spacewalker II

acdii

The struts on this cub are structural, and the last thing I would want is any slop in them. JB weld will hold the nut tight in shipping. Once bolted in, the glue plays no part in it.

TomCrump

Thanks, Steve. That's the product I was referring to.

skylark-flier

Hey, got a question - and it's probably just my lack of knowledge generally, but why are you going with structural wood struts and not aluminum? Is it because of the difficulty in aluminum working? My own GP Cub-40 got wood struts but they're not functional - I actually fly much/most of the time without them because they mess with my "perception" of the plane in the air.

Zor

Hey guys,

I selected aluminum wing struts for the addition to the Kadet Senior because it is much easier to install terminations.

The aluminum struts also resist compression better than wood that can more easily bend and break.
Aluminum can also be lighter than wood depending on the type of wood used.

I selected 3/8" x 3/16 with a wall thckness of 0.017" .

The struts will be functional even though the wings do not require them to be.

Zor

Zor

Glued a 6/32 nut that happened to be brass to a piece of aluminum. Both first cleaned with acetone.
I used thin CA because so many fellows swear by it.

The next day I then inserted the machine screw from the aluminum side so the head of the screw is on the aluminum side and thightened it reasonably hard. Waited a minute or so and unscrewed the machine screw.

The nut fell off fromt the aluminum. I attributed this to the glue drying brittle and being broken off by the thightening.

Please _ _ _ Let me know if you try that.

I can see that an epoxy like JB Weld may hold on.

Zor

acdii

The struts are part of the kit. Why re-engineer something that has worked for countless thousands of builds? The difference in weight is negligible. This Cub is already very light, and with a Saito 100 pulling it around it should have unlimited vertical. I would not be surprised it is comes in at the same weight or less than the T-Clips.

TomCrump

Are these airfoil shaped struts ? If so, who is the supplier ?

box car

www.ksmetals.com

Zor

Hello TomCrump,

Always nice to read you.

As ' box car ' posted while I was processing pictures.
My supplier is the local LHS. I do not know who is his supplier.
As seen on the label in the following pic I imagine that K&S Precision Metals in Chcago, Illinois, is the manufacturer.

Hope this answers your question.


Incidentally _ _ _ the background upon which the struts are sitting on is the new material into which I can insert pins by fingers. It will sit on my flat thick plywood work area.

Zor

smkrcflyer

Btw on cub mans web site (link below) there is a very good explanation of how to make folding struts use the K&S tubing. I built these for a 1/4 scale cub and they worked very good.

http://thecubden.org/j3l4-related/folding-struts-take-1

TomCrump

Thaks for the brand info, zor.

Zor

Hello All,

My RC Universe display on my monitor has changed.
It defaults to reply and I do not see the ususal listing of threads.
I see only one post and it is always showing post #40.
Has anyone else seen a change ?

I also get a popup asking to stop running this script.
Other forums are ok as usual.

Zor

bodybuildr

My Feedback: (44)

Try deleting your cookies and rebooting.

Zor

Hi bodybuildr,

I am NO computer guru

It took me a while to find out how to delete cookies. Looks like I finally found out by chance; not by knowledge.

I rebooted and now it seems I am back to normal.

Thanks you so much for your computer expertise.

Now to see if it continues normal and back to topics of the threads with my apologies for the disturbance.

Zor

Zor

You are very welcome TomC.

It feels good to help .

Zor

acdii

And now the Cub has a seat. Needed something to secure the battery and hold the switch/charge jack, so built a seat out of scraps. It is almost done, painted the windshield to match the wings, just have the tail bracing to install, then one final balance. The only thing I haven't figured out is how to attach the rubber band(s) to the landing gear as it is not on the plans nor in the manual other than saying to attach bands to it. I lost the instrument panel though, but its easy to put in when I find it. Thinking of adding the N numbers to the sides to fill in the huge blank white space, but couldn't find 1 1/2" letters. It took me a year to complete, but sure was worth it, my best looking plane so far.

skylark-flier

Y'er right - that's a beatiful plane. Well done! Personally, if the wings have "N" numbers I wouldn't clutter the sides with them. You've got a very clean paint job there, I wouldn't change a thing.

cubcrasher

My Feedback: (6)

Hey acdii
On the landing gear I like to use O-rings. Go to the hardware store and get some about the
size of a dime. Hook it on one side, go under the wire and hook it on the other side. I use
two on my 1/4 cubs. I like that seat too.

box car

~~SIG Brotherhood ~~

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

If that is the 1/5th scale SIG Cub you start by adding a little piece of piano wire (not include I think) to the center bend of the top wire formed so the the to ends stick up at an angle (I call them ears). You start at one of the piano wire ears and wrap it around both pieces at the center of the "V" and end by looping over the second ear. I built the stock gear and then promptly replaced it with Robart Cub gear.

Mike

Zor

I like the idea of modelling by matching the full size airplanes which have registrations readable from the sides. No doubt your suggestion wil be evaluated.

Zor

skylark-flier

Absolutely, if you're modelling a particular full-size, then the markings need to match - got no argument there. BTW, that bipe is nice - the matched wing/side looks quite natural and correct.

I guess it really ends up in what effect any particular modeller is looking for - which is really the beauty of this whole endeavor.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I'm with you Zor. When I ordered CAP insignia for my J-3 Cub and also ordered the N numbers for the wing and tail to match the CAP Cub in the AF museum.

acdii

Well she's all done. Got the tail braces done last night, installed the battery pack and switch in the seat, mounted the seat inside, and hooked everything up. One final balance check and time to fire up and tune the motor. If weather holds nice this weekend like they say I just might take it out and fly it Sunday. All depends on the wind.