~~SIG Brotherhood ~~
#1101
I've built the two Spacewalkers, and the Bravo. I agree that they are great kits.
A current bui;d project is a Kadet Senior, that I plan to modify into a Kadet Senior Sport.
A current bui;d project is a Kadet Senior, that I plan to modify into a Kadet Senior Sport.
#1102
My Feedback: (6)
Hmm... Nice car you can't kill those old bugs! I was thinking if you reclined the passenger seat all the way back and started at the pillar and slid it all the way back to the rear window it might fit. I use to do this with a car I owned but it was a touch bigger than a bug. If you didn't have far to go a luggage rack on top would work if you assemble the airplane and faced it to the rear. I have a friend who is within 7 miles of the club that does this all the time.
Mike
Mike
#1103
I want in on the list. If you haven't owned a 4 star, there's something wrong with you.Everyone should have to build a Sig kit before advancing from a trainer.
I have had all these Sig's
4 star 120,60,40 (kits and ARF's) Something extra, space walker, fazer and sealane.
I have had all these Sig's
4 star 120,60,40 (kits and ARF's) Something extra, space walker, fazer and sealane.
Mike, I like your idea - simply assemble the plane, strap it on top of the bug (but I would face her forward so I didn't put reversed air stresses on the surfaces - or am I wrong?) and go fly.
And here's our SIG Brotherhood, as I've got it today:[TABLE="width: 592"]
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#1104
My Feedback: (6)
Fred told me he found reversing so the airplane was facing the rear was better the airplane seemed to be a little more stable instead of trying to lift off the roof. Makes sense facing to the rear the wing develops no lift. Now the caveat here is you must keep the speed down, I don't think he ever got above 30 or 35 mph.
#1106
My Feedback: (1)
OKC, You could also think of getting a trailer. Driving tail first doesn't sound good unless you can stiffen the the feathers somehow. On a windy day at the field we usually put the planes tail into the wind on the ground if they are a tail dragger, but driving that way just sounds dangerous. You won't be lifting off unless the wing is attached. I would probably wrap it in a sheet and go nose forward. Build a cradle out of foam that fits the curve of your roof. Just some ideas.
Last edited by Flight Risk; 10-23-2014 at 10:33 AM.
#1107
Thread Starter
#1108
Senior Member
.
#1110
Thread Starter
only thing I have to clean on my Clips is the left landing gear. Rest of the plane is clean. Next gallon of fuel will have less oil in it, so there will be even less residue. Running at about 16:1, book says 20:1.
#1111
Thread Starter
OK Brotherhood, this thread was 7 pages back!
So to liven it up, the progress on my 1/5th SIG Cub.
So to liven it up, the progress on my 1/5th SIG Cub.
Last edited by acdii; 11-24-2014 at 12:24 PM. Reason: Posted same image twice
#1113
Thread Starter
Thanks, its my first Koverall and Dope. I figured out what I did wrong when I got to the ailerons, so my next one will use less dope and cover better. The struts still need painting, going to paint the front one blue,and rear one red and polish the brass. I say about another 16 hours and it will be done. Need one more servo for the wing, and I can finish those up. Still have to hook all the radio stuff up, and make a support for the switch inside, as well as do some sanding on the door so it closes easier.
Needs a kick every so often, not as hot as the Kadet thread.
Needs a kick every so often, not as hot as the Kadet thread.
#1115
Y'er right - it's been awful quiet around here lately. I, for one, have been busy flying and working on the refurbishment/restoration of my 40-yr old CG Sr. Falcon. She had her first flight since the re-build just today, all went rather well once I had the CG something close to right. It's still too far to the rear but it's always been that way, not going to change it any more than I already did.
That 1/5-Cub is beautiful, nicely done. I love the koverall/dope combination, easy to work with, tough as NAILS. My planes that have it never get holes, monokoted planes always do.
That 1/5-Cub is beautiful, nicely done. I love the koverall/dope combination, easy to work with, tough as NAILS. My planes that have it never get holes, monokoted planes always do.
#1119
Thread Starter
Except for the metal, going to use the same dope I used for the rest of the plane since they are wood. I would like to devise a way to quick attach the strut to the fuse so I dont have to mess with a nut and screw at the field, but maybe I can just epoxy the nut to the fitting and do it that way instead. I have a feeling this plane will be a blast to fly, just hope that 100 doesn't rip the wings off! If it flies anything like that T-Clips I will love it, though I feel ground handling will be a wee bit better since it has a longer fuse.
#1120
Banned
Why detach struts from fuselage ?
Except for the metal, going to use the same dope I used for the rest of the plane since they are wood. I would like to devise a way to quick attach the strut to the fuse so I dont have to mess with a nut and screw at the field, but maybe I can just epoxy the nut to the fitting and do it that way instead. I have a feeling this plane will be a blast to fly, just hope that 100 doesn't rip the wings off! If it flies anything like that T-Clips I will love it, though I feel ground handling will be a wee bit better since it has a longer fuse.
Then a small elastic can hold them together there.
Zor
#1121
Would it be possible to solder a nut to the fuselage attachment point ?
Since you have jury struts, I assume that you will leave the struts attached to the wing.
On my Kadet, the srtuts are held on by a bolt into a blind a nut embedded into the wings and fuselage.
Since you have jury struts, I assume that you will leave the struts attached to the wing.
On my Kadet, the srtuts are held on by a bolt into a blind a nut embedded into the wings and fuselage.
Last edited by TomCrump; 11-24-2014 at 03:10 PM.
#1122
Banned
#1123
Thread Starter
The struts are 100% functional on this one, if I do anything that is not according to plans the wings could go bye bye. The attachment points are aluminum, so it would have to be epoxy, or JB weld. They are held onto the fuse with a 3/8 long socket head screw, so imagine dropping that in the grass, never to be found again.
If you look at the rear of the landing gear you can see the attachment point.
If you look at the rear of the landing gear you can see the attachment point.
#1124
Hanger ( has some "pins" that are used to retain the struts on their 1/4 Cub. I can't find te link, but you may want to investigate them.
Don't be afraid to deviate from Sig's plans, but do so wisely. A cotter pin and key may work for you.
The aluminum eliminates the possibility of soldering a nut. I'd be hesitant to just glue one on.
It's too bad that it isn't possible to solder. It worked well on my 1/4 Monocoupe and Fairchild 24.
Don't be afraid to deviate from Sig's plans, but do so wisely. A cotter pin and key may work for you.
The aluminum eliminates the possibility of soldering a nut. I'd be hesitant to just glue one on.
It's too bad that it isn't possible to solder. It worked well on my 1/4 Monocoupe and Fairchild 24.
#1125