G&L 1/5 DHC chipmunk - diary of a build.
#651
My Feedback: (43)
After the primer has cured to the touch and it seems ready to sand, take it out and put it in your trailer or truck, somewhere where it gets hot. It will finish the cure on the primer and it will sand much better without clogging the paper. In the winter time, I wrap the part in an electric blanket for a few hours. I also do this with finishing resins. It makes the product harder and easier to sand. I have found that with Zpoxy finish resin, it takes three days to cure to the point that it can be dry sanded. A few hours in the blanket, and in half the time.
I DETEST wet sanding, so I look for ways to avoid it until it comes time to cut and buff the paint.
I DETEST wet sanding, so I look for ways to avoid it until it comes time to cut and buff the paint.
#652
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
No, I did a few tests, I would first mix the paint and let it cook, then I would test the color, then reduce it. When I get yellow it doesn't change when I get orange it is orange off the bat and the reducer doesn't change it, but I could be wrong. I am using the same reducer that I used when getting yellow.
I just got off the phone with the KK guy. He said that the paint is "floating" and that he is getting with the chemist today. So I think it is something that has happened to the paint either in transit, or as it sites at my house, or who knows. But I think the paint I have is toast.
He is sending me out some new paint and I should get it by Monday or Tuesday. This is so strange, but I am not a chemist, the paint starts out yellow and by the time it has cooked it turns orange, when it doesn't do the yellow thing. Lesson learned, when painting with yellow, mix enough to paint every thing in one batch.
TB
I just got off the phone with the KK guy. He said that the paint is "floating" and that he is getting with the chemist today. So I think it is something that has happened to the paint either in transit, or as it sites at my house, or who knows. But I think the paint I have is toast.
He is sending me out some new paint and I should get it by Monday or Tuesday. This is so strange, but I am not a chemist, the paint starts out yellow and by the time it has cooked it turns orange, when it doesn't do the yellow thing. Lesson learned, when painting with yellow, mix enough to paint every thing in one batch.
TB
#653
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
After the primer has cured to the touch and it seems ready to sand, take it out and put it in your trailer or truck, somewhere where it gets hot. It will finish the cure on the primer and it will sand much better without clogging the paper. In the winter time, I wrap the part in an electric blanket for a few hours. I also do this with finishing resins. It makes the product harder and easier to sand. I have found that with Zpoxy finish resin, it takes three days to cure to the point that it can be dry sanded. A few hours in the blanket, and in half the time.
I DETEST wet sanding, so I look for ways to avoid it until it comes time to cut and buff the paint.
I DETEST wet sanding, so I look for ways to avoid it until it comes time to cut and buff the paint.
Thanks Jeff, I store all my planes in the trailer, even planes in the build. So as soon as the parts are dry to the touch, or sooner if they are on a stand, they go into the cooker (my trailer) and stay overnight. I paint starting at 7:00am so the part will cook in the Texas heat (100 degrees now) all day. I do this with the painted parts too.
Good to know that about the Zpoxi, I will start doing that too. I knew my trailer would come in handy some day
TB
#655
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Paint update
So I heard back from Klass Kote and they confirmed that the batch that my paint came from is indeed "floating". He was getting the same results as I was. The only way he was able to get the correct yellow was to put a can in a industrial paint shaker like at a paint store for 10 min then he was able to mix the correct color.
They sent me a 1/2 pint that was shaken to kingdom Kong and he feels it will work. I will have to shake it before I use it and hopefully it will work. If not I am screwed until they get it fixed. The good is it was nothing I did and I am not crazy. There chemist is going to fix the mix on Monday but I don't think it will be a quick fix.
Once I get it and I am ready I will take the can down to HD and have them shake the hell out of it, then I will mix it in the parking lot (back alley drug dealer sty). Then take it home while it inducts.
One thing that makes sense is only the first mixes from either can was resulting in the good mix, the more I used the paint the higher the chances I got the orange until I would only get the orange. Hopefully I will get a good mix right off the bat. I will mix all of it even if I only use half of it.
My only chance of getting the wing painted, I got a 50% chance of getting the right color
This sucks.
TB
So I heard back from Klass Kote and they confirmed that the batch that my paint came from is indeed "floating". He was getting the same results as I was. The only way he was able to get the correct yellow was to put a can in a industrial paint shaker like at a paint store for 10 min then he was able to mix the correct color.
They sent me a 1/2 pint that was shaken to kingdom Kong and he feels it will work. I will have to shake it before I use it and hopefully it will work. If not I am screwed until they get it fixed. The good is it was nothing I did and I am not crazy. There chemist is going to fix the mix on Monday but I don't think it will be a quick fix.
Once I get it and I am ready I will take the can down to HD and have them shake the hell out of it, then I will mix it in the parking lot (back alley drug dealer sty). Then take it home while it inducts.
One thing that makes sense is only the first mixes from either can was resulting in the good mix, the more I used the paint the higher the chances I got the orange until I would only get the orange. Hopefully I will get a good mix right off the bat. I will mix all of it even if I only use half of it.
My only chance of getting the wing painted, I got a 50% chance of getting the right color
This sucks.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 09-05-2014 at 04:37 PM.
#658
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: The Sunshine state, when it's not raining!
Posts: 8,131
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Boy is there truth in that statement. Even with perfect paint we can really make it difficult. I am considering another redo, not because of the paint but because of the painter.
#659
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
I really hope this works. They sent my a now can 2 day priority so should get it Monday or Tuesday. The wing should be done by Monday and ready for paint. I will mix all 8 oz to insure the best chance of getting the yellow, probably only shoot half that.
When this is all said and done KK owes me a pint of paint and catalyst, ($50).
TB
#660
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
On the bench for today, install the last of the gear in the fuselage, wet sand the wing and make it ready for rivets. My stencils came so I think I can do all the black lettering on the fuselage, that will be for Monday mornings shoot. My new Paasche air brush will handle that job.
The oracles will be the only multi layered paint masks that will have three colors so this will take a good three days to do and I will do them when the wing is painted. I got till the 22nd to get this plane finished, then it is back to work and I will only have the weekends for flying and building.
Going to be close...........
TB
The oracles will be the only multi layered paint masks that will have three colors so this will take a good three days to do and I will do them when the wing is painted. I got till the 22nd to get this plane finished, then it is back to work and I will only have the weekends for flying and building.
Going to be close...........
TB
#661
Tony, my LHS sells a robart paint shaker that will shake cans that small. Even smaller I think. I don't think it costs too much, worth it if you will continue to paint your planes. Oh, and Ace, are you serious?
#662
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
One way or another I will shake this can like it has never been shaken before!
TB
#663
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Morning progress.
So I am getting all the electronics install.
Just about everything short of the second receiver, and the telemetry sensors.
Receiver #1 is in and I have the antennas exiting the belly of the fuselage. This is recommended with all the CF I have.
Receiver #1 is the main controller, ailerons, elevator, ruder, tail wheel, throttle, and flaps.
I will install the second receiver once I get it working, if not it goes back.
The second receiver controls, choke, engine kill/ nav lights, landing lights, canopy, and the pilot/camera.
I will let this be for now, tiered of all this micro work, taxing on the brain
On to the wing
TB
So I am getting all the electronics install.
Just about everything short of the second receiver, and the telemetry sensors.
Receiver #1 is in and I have the antennas exiting the belly of the fuselage. This is recommended with all the CF I have.
Receiver #1 is the main controller, ailerons, elevator, ruder, tail wheel, throttle, and flaps.
I will install the second receiver once I get it working, if not it goes back.
The second receiver controls, choke, engine kill/ nav lights, landing lights, canopy, and the pilot/camera.
I will let this be for now, tiered of all this micro work, taxing on the brain
On to the wing
TB
#670
RCU Forum Manager/Admin
My Feedback: (9)
Tony,
I'm curious as to why you decided to have the antenna elements of your receiver exit the fuselage. The only instances where I have seen this done is where flight metal or carbon fiber is used in the fuselage and it can block out the signals getting to the antennas when mounted inside the fuselage, or did I miss something along the lines back earlier in the build??
Ken
I'm curious as to why you decided to have the antenna elements of your receiver exit the fuselage. The only instances where I have seen this done is where flight metal or carbon fiber is used in the fuselage and it can block out the signals getting to the antennas when mounted inside the fuselage, or did I miss something along the lines back earlier in the build??
Ken
#671
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: The Sunshine state, when it's not raining!
Posts: 8,131
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Per post #663, line #4
Morning progress.
So I am getting all the electronics install.
Just about everything short of the second receiver, and the telemetry sensors.
Receiver #1 is in and I have the antennas exiting the belly of the fuselage. This is recommended with all the CF I have.
Receiver #1 is the main controller, ailerons, elevator, ruder, tail wheel, throttle, and flaps.
Morning progress.
So I am getting all the electronics install.
Just about everything short of the second receiver, and the telemetry sensors.
Receiver #1 is in and I have the antennas exiting the belly of the fuselage. This is recommended with all the CF I have.
Receiver #1 is the main controller, ailerons, elevator, ruder, tail wheel, throttle, and flaps.
#672
Banned
About receiver(s) antennas
Tony,
I'm curious as to why you decided to have the antenna elements of your receiver exit the fuselage. The only instances where I have seen this done is where flight metal or carbon fiber is used in the fuselage and it can block out the signals getting to the antennas when mounted inside the fuselage, or did I miss something along the lines back earlier in the build??
Ken
In post #663 Tony refers to all the CF he has so I agree with him for the antennas outside the fuselage.
I do not agree with the antennas as appear in the pictures.
I understand the two antennas are from the only receiver installed at this moment.
Antennas should take advantage of diversity and wave radiation polarity.
I do not see that in the pictures.
Zor
#674
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
I know that the antennas are to be at 90 degrees of each other. I have always ignored that and just install the receiver in the fuselage. I have never had a problem and with Futaba I feel confident. I will do a series of range testing and so on. I did not have the room to have both antennas come all the way out and at 90 digress. Futaba for carbon fiber recommends just the tips of the antennas to be out side of the fuselage so we will see. The second receiver will have the antennas in the second pilots cockpit.
TB
TB
#675
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (11)
Daily progress.
I moved the fuselage into my trailer and will be testing the transport dolly.
I needed to clean my trailer so I can go fly tomorrow, was a major mess.
Prop and spinner fit
This KK primer is great stuff, wet sand really nice and dry sands as well, no clogging.
Panel lines came out great
I am laying out the rivets and will get a good start on it today. I start with the bottom first.
Besides this primer sanding really nice it also marks much better. The pencil does not etch the primer, and I think the vinyl will stick better too.
TB
I moved the fuselage into my trailer and will be testing the transport dolly.
I needed to clean my trailer so I can go fly tomorrow, was a major mess.
Prop and spinner fit
This KK primer is great stuff, wet sand really nice and dry sands as well, no clogging.
Panel lines came out great
I am laying out the rivets and will get a good start on it today. I start with the bottom first.
Besides this primer sanding really nice it also marks much better. The pencil does not etch the primer, and I think the vinyl will stick better too.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 09-06-2014 at 11:16 AM.