Sig Kadet MkII build
#127
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I'm excited! I got the scrap balsa support blocks in place for the cable guides, and (re)started on fuse construction again...main landing gear block (1/4" sheet balsa) in place. Soon the fuse will be fully sheeted, and I can't wait to see that myself.
#128
Hey Ken! You're looking good, no doubt. If I might, I initially reinforced that main landing gear block with a strip of triangle stock on each side of the fuse - and I've found it was to good effect. The Mk-II's a bit heavier than most other versions and she CAN take quite a beating sometimes. That extra reinforcement has, I think, made the difference between a bouncy landing and a damaged plane. Yeah, I've had my share of "bouncy" landings with her. The weight addition is negligible but the peace of mind is "priceless". Something to think about anyway.
#130
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More progress this week...Sheeted the fuse, bottom and top (the forward 12" of the bottom is sheeted with ply!). Then the ply landing gear plate had to be notched per the plans and glued in. After that it's just drilling for the landing gear bolts and installing the blind-nuts, and also adding scrap 1/4" stock reinforcements to the landing gear plate - turns out this recommendation by Dave (skylark-flier) was also called for in the manual.
#131
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I'm really grateful for the progress I've been able to make this week...
After completing the landing gear plate I managed to round out the edges of the fuse and marked out and cut out the cowl...I guess next week I'll place my order for covering and paint.
Have a wonderful weekend, everyone!
After completing the landing gear plate I managed to round out the edges of the fuse and marked out and cut out the cowl...I guess next week I'll place my order for covering and paint.
Have a wonderful weekend, everyone!
Last edited by KenChoo; 02-26-2016 at 04:21 PM.
#132
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Took a week off, but back now. Cowl mounting done...it's not in the photos below, but I used scrap 3/32" sheet to create a spacer for the spinner backplate-to-cowl gap. Now it's time to get cracking on the fin and stab.
#134
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Hi FlyerinOKC,
Thanks...me too. I'm looking forward to seeing it covered soon too. In fact this week I ordered my natural Solartex from BalsaUSA and paint from John at Nelson's Hobby (Monokote Red, Black, and Dove Gray in gloss). While I await the arrival of covering and paint there's still a bit to do.
I've fuelproofed the firewall with 4 coats of Balsarite, completed the fin and the framing of the stab. I just need to sand the stab frame then I'll get to sheeting it.
Thanks...me too. I'm looking forward to seeing it covered soon too. In fact this week I ordered my natural Solartex from BalsaUSA and paint from John at Nelson's Hobby (Monokote Red, Black, and Dove Gray in gloss). While I await the arrival of covering and paint there's still a bit to do.
I've fuelproofed the firewall with 4 coats of Balsarite, completed the fin and the framing of the stab. I just need to sand the stab frame then I'll get to sheeting it.
#135
Nice work, and the engine should be perfect. I flew one with an OS 40 FP and it was great as a trainer. The 35AX is way more power for only a couple of extra ounces.
For finishing, I don't like film or dope fumes either. I've doped outside quite a lot, but now I'm switching to water based paints. I use Minwax Polycrylic for fiberglassing, attaching coverings, and sealing bare wood. I plan to use Nelson System 3 paint with crosslinker for final finish.
Sometimes with thin wood I worry about warping with the water based Polycrylic. Then I give a quick spray with shellac. It stinks, but it is alcohol based and the smell dissipates quickly so for the bit I use it's not an issue. I also spray it on fiberglass cloth so it doesn't unravel. Dries in about one minute.
I have read that you can paint Solartex with Nelson paint. Of course, you can also use Polyspan and save some weight; Sig Koverall might be lighter too, depending on finish.
Jim
For finishing, I don't like film or dope fumes either. I've doped outside quite a lot, but now I'm switching to water based paints. I use Minwax Polycrylic for fiberglassing, attaching coverings, and sealing bare wood. I plan to use Nelson System 3 paint with crosslinker for final finish.
Sometimes with thin wood I worry about warping with the water based Polycrylic. Then I give a quick spray with shellac. It stinks, but it is alcohol based and the smell dissipates quickly so for the bit I use it's not an issue. I also spray it on fiberglass cloth so it doesn't unravel. Dries in about one minute.
I have read that you can paint Solartex with Nelson paint. Of course, you can also use Polyspan and save some weight; Sig Koverall might be lighter too, depending on finish.
Jim
#136
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Hi Jim (buzzard bait), thanks for sharing your thoughts and experience on finishing. It's good stuff for me to read about.
I am indeed slightly concerned about weight...just today as I sheeted the stab I felt like I used too much glue (perils of the novice builder), and I'm sure I was guilty of the same elsewhere in the frame up. I'm curious to see what my all up weight will be at the end of the build. Not too much above 5lbs I hope.
I realize Solartex and paint isn't the best choice of finishing for this size of a model (weight-wise)...I decided on it though to get some practice/experience in as I also have an Astro Hog kit that I'd like to do in Solartex and paint in the future. I hope it all turns out okay...
I am indeed slightly concerned about weight...just today as I sheeted the stab I felt like I used too much glue (perils of the novice builder), and I'm sure I was guilty of the same elsewhere in the frame up. I'm curious to see what my all up weight will be at the end of the build. Not too much above 5lbs I hope.
I realize Solartex and paint isn't the best choice of finishing for this size of a model (weight-wise)...I decided on it though to get some practice/experience in as I also have an Astro Hog kit that I'd like to do in Solartex and paint in the future. I hope it all turns out okay...
#137
You're very welcome, Ken. Since you want to try Solartex I say go right ahead and do it. It really isn't going to weigh much more, and everyone who uses it loves it.
My Kadet was a little over 5 lbs, pretty sloppily painted and as someone said, built like a tank. It flew just fine even without much power. That big flat-bottomed wing makes a lot of lift.
You might try an 11x4 prop. You won't need much speed, and it will give lots of low end thrust. It's a good plane for learning to use rudder; in fact it flies very well without ailerons at all. You might want to couple some rudder to the ailerons. Anyway, have a good time with it.
Jim
My Kadet was a little over 5 lbs, pretty sloppily painted and as someone said, built like a tank. It flew just fine even without much power. That big flat-bottomed wing makes a lot of lift.
You might try an 11x4 prop. You won't need much speed, and it will give lots of low end thrust. It's a good plane for learning to use rudder; in fact it flies very well without ailerons at all. You might want to couple some rudder to the ailerons. Anyway, have a good time with it.
Jim
#138
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Stab sheeted and sanded, and fuse centerline marked for the fin. Just a couple of cut-outs for the fin tab and rudder pushrod and I think that's about it before covering! Now I just have to wait for those materials to arrive...Thank goodness I still have the cut-outs and pushrods to do in the meantime.
#139
Jim's right - I fly mine all the time just using rudder, for practice mainly but it's HUGE fun. She's just as responsive to fly her as a 3-channel as she is as a 4-channel - one of the few planes I've ever been able to say that about. You're going to have an awful lot of fun with her.
#140
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Looks like in my last post I'd completely forgotten about the rudder and elevator! But those are done now, and the tail end's all hinged too. Cut-outs all made, ready for pushrods to be done and final sanding followed by Balsarite preparation for the Solartex.
I did want to ask you guys a question: do you prefer to glue on the fin and stab before covering or after covering, and why do you prefer it that way? I'm inclined to cover first then glue as it's not only easier but possibly neater as well (less film overlap around the joints).
Thanks!
I did want to ask you guys a question: do you prefer to glue on the fin and stab before covering or after covering, and why do you prefer it that way? I'm inclined to cover first then glue as it's not only easier but possibly neater as well (less film overlap around the joints).
Thanks!
#142
I also like to glue first, with triangle stock - as small as I can make it. Prime reason is to make absolutely sure the covering seals the joint.
But, it's not us doing the build. I'm sure everybody would say "go with what you're most comfy with". You're doing a beautiful job.
But, it's not us doing the build. I'm sure everybody would say "go with what you're most comfy with". You're doing a beautiful job.
#143
Some prefer to cover first, stripping the covering in the areas between the fin, fuse and stab as needed to glue everything together. Again, as said above, it's your plane and build so do what you feel comfortable doing
#144
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Nice job on the Kadet
I agree with skylark flyer, go with what you are most comfortable with.
Here is an alternative way of doing it.
Cover the junction with a small strip of covering first, then lay the sheets on the surface to be covered.
If the covering creeps the underlying strip will still hide the balsa. Also the covering adheres a little better to other covering so it doesn't lift at the end.
I agree with skylark flyer, go with what you are most comfortable with.
Here is an alternative way of doing it.
Cover the junction with a small strip of covering first, then lay the sheets on the surface to be covered.
If the covering creeps the underlying strip will still hide the balsa. Also the covering adheres a little better to other covering so it doesn't lift at the end.
#145
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Hi Guys,
Thanks for all the advice! I was going back and forth between the two methods and finally decided to try something new (for me) as opposed to what I'm used to. I know, it's not what most of you were saying, (and I don't mean to be contrary, really!) but I've been reading build threads over the last year which all have done it this way (tail feathers glued on first, then cover over that using strips under the overlap as pd1 posted above). I think it'll be a challenge for me, but I feel it would be a good skill to learn so I might as well do it on this "trainer"!
I think I'm pretty set for finishing...the covering has arrived along with my 1/8" masking trim tape, and my paint should be here this week. I've done the final sanding, glued on the tail feathers and just started applying Balsarite to the airframe.
Thanks for all the advice! I was going back and forth between the two methods and finally decided to try something new (for me) as opposed to what I'm used to. I know, it's not what most of you were saying, (and I don't mean to be contrary, really!) but I've been reading build threads over the last year which all have done it this way (tail feathers glued on first, then cover over that using strips under the overlap as pd1 posted above). I think it'll be a challenge for me, but I feel it would be a good skill to learn so I might as well do it on this "trainer"!
I think I'm pretty set for finishing...the covering has arrived along with my 1/8" masking trim tape, and my paint should be here this week. I've done the final sanding, glued on the tail feathers and just started applying Balsarite to the airframe.
Last edited by KenChoo; 03-22-2016 at 10:08 AM.
#147
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Its one of those deals where you ask 3 builders what the "right way" is and you get 4 answers. The "right way" is the right way for you that gives you the results you want. What matters is what you end up with not the way you get there. In this case its all about the destination and not the trip!
#148
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Just a quick update today, but no pics...control surfaces (rudd, elev, ails) covered, next will be the wings and the fuse. I think I'll just get a picture once all the covering is done.
Ken
Ken
#150
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Okay, I couldn't resist...I've only covered the wings (and the control surfaces) but I wanted to post this pic because I love this natural Solartex and Balsarite! It handles like a dream...so much so that I think Solartex has spoiled me for any other plastic film covering. Also, how nice is it to see the wood through the covering? I gotta appreciate this while I can, before the paint covers it all up. :-)