VincentJ

In preparation to removing the top portions of formers F3, F4, F5 and F6, I thought it wise to add structure to the bottoms of these formers for additional reinforcement beforehand. 1/4" x 3/8" basswood lengths were glued.




I've marked the tops of the formers that need to be removed with blue tape to make sure I don't accidentally take the wrong ones out!




All the former tops have been removed...

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

Vincent, you will want the Windows standing vertical and not touching. The water needs to be hot but not hot enough to warp the plastic. I've never tried window film but would have to assume that sooner or later it is going to bubble/separate.

VincentJ

A small section of balsa tri-stock was added for additional support at each wing mount block.




1/4" tri-stock was also added to each former that had its top removed.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Looking good Vince! I like to add tri-stock too.

VincentJ

I have many tasks started, but to keep this project moving ahead that's what needs to be done. My OCD is wreaking havoc with me though!

It was a little unnerving to cut an opening into the side of this fuselage, but it was part of the master plan. While the baggage opening is much smaller, a larger door will create the illusion of something more true to scale. The full scale Bonanza would have had an optional 22 x 37 inch baggage door to access a 35 cubic foot, 270 pound capacity cargo area.





An opening was made in the right hand side of the fuselage which will serve as the rear baggage door that Bob's full scale Bonanza had. This scale feature will be used to hide all of the electronic switches and charging jacks that would normally be found on the outside of the model.




Removing the stringers and sheeting from the side of the fuselage creates a weak point. A 3/16" thick birch plywood box will add back structure and make it stronger than before I made the opening.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I have a baggage door in my 182 here is what it hides. The plug is for a small Lipo to power the navigation and landing lights.

VincentJ

There you go Mike, good job! It's a cleaner look when you can hide those necessities while still having them in an easily accessible spot.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

The phono jack is the remote glow plug connection. Makes it easier to start that way and I can keep my digits away from the spinning blade! When I was a kid I learned respect for spinning props the hard way. I got bit a number of times by an .049 and a .020 and still have a scar or two to prove it.. I don't even want to imagine what a .75 would do.

I got a little build time in yesterday. Here is my Ken Willard Sunday Fighter I am building for the grandkids. I got the Cabane struts, tail surfaces, and tail skid mounted, landing gear bent, and the pushrods installed. Next its smooth out the vertical fin supports to the rear turtleback,finish the covering and get the wrinkles out, install tank, engine, and throttle cable. Apply the roundlets and the pilot and she will be ready to fly. Power is a NIB OS .10 FP.

VincentJ

Ah, I was wondering what that Jack was for...nice work Mike! I'm sure the your grandchildren will love it.

VincentJ

The baggage box has been reinforced with 1/4" balsa tri-stock. The addition of this cutout didn't weaken the structure in the least, in fact, it's much stronger now!




.032" aluminum sheet stock was cut to fit. I will cut out for the Jacks and switches later when I know how many I will need. The aluminum sheet is removable.




The cover was fabricated and trimmed to fit. The cover is made-up from three pieces of wood that have been laminated together using epoxy. The inner and outer pieces are 1/32" birch plywood with a 1/16" balsa center. The lamination follows the shape of the fuselage as it is not flat. It fits extremely well. I'm still undecided whether to use magnets to hold the cover in place or to use two hinges along with a magnet to keep the cover closed.

Hydro Junkie

My question is how is the door mounted on the full size aircraft? I know one commonly used piece of hardware is a piano hinge. If that's what is used on the full sized plane, you might consider a magnet and this:
https://www.micromark.com/Miniature-...60-in-x-15-in-

VincentJ

The full scale Bonanza did use a hinge on the right side of the door that was similar to that of a piano hinge. Using a piano hinge won't work for me because the luggage door that I made is only one half of the scale size. I will be making the other half non operable so it will appear that it is operable by a faux piano hinge. Notice that on the right hand side of the luggage door (that I built) is squared off and not rounded as I did on the left hand side. I did this because I will be increasing the size to that more of scale dimensions. This is why I'm debating what to use. Magnets would probably be better as it will be invisible and the door would appear to be opened by the faux hinge.
Unless I just keep the size of the door that I made without adding to its length, then I could (and would) use a piano hinge. Hope this all makes sense!

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I used magnets to hold my door closed and with the hinge on the front facing side the air flow insures it stays closed in flight. I need to come up with a better looking handle.

gibb

My Feedback: (7)

I plan to use magnets as well.
Jim

VincentJ

Time to build the dorsal fin. It all starts by cutting out 1/16" sheet balsa to create the dorsal fin base.




The base is fitted around the leading edge of the fin and glued in place making sure it is centered over the fuses center line.




Tapered balsa stock is cut and glued forming the dorsal fin's leading edge.

VincentJ

The plans specified a 1/16" ply dorsal fin fillet. I substituted it with 1/4" thick balsa. Too much filler would have had to be used if I used the thinner fillet. I understand filler is sometimes a necessary evil, but I do my best to limit its use.




For a better fit, I matched the shape of the fin's leading edge to the vertical part of the fillet.




The sides of the dorsal fin have been sheeted using 1/16" balsa and fitted against the fin. I will use a small amount of filler to blend it all together once I'm done sanding/shaping.

VincentJ

My hopes for finding a windshield is starting to dwindle... Someone must have one tucked away in their basement that they aren't using!

VincentJ

The dorsal fin is done. I love the lines that it gives to the fuselage.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Fin came out perfect!

VincentJ

Thank you Mike.

VincentJ

Time to install the tail cone. Two pieces of lite-plywood vertical mounts were glued on the aft section of the fuselage. This is where the tail cone will get screwed to.








I knew that accommodations would need to be made to the tail cone because of the interference with the elevator joiner wire. The areas on the tail cone marked with a Sharpie with be filed.

Note: I marked "TOP" on the tail cone so as not to install it upside down which can easily be done.




A few passes using a fine round hand file made quick work of removing the fiberglassed marked areas. Now the tail cone easily slips on without rubbing against the joiner wire.




The tail cone is secured to the mounting brackets using six wood screws.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Vince, were you going to add a hatch so you can adjust the linkage in the tail?

VincentJ

No, no need to. The linkage can be adjusted by removing the tail cone, there's just enough room to make linkage adjustments for the rudder and elevator.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Cool!

Tony Hallo

Vincent
Might want to take a look at this series of videos by Merlyn Graves. He no longer with us.