Well, I spent last night repeatedly cauterizing my fingertips and generally not achieving my goal (hardening the cable ends of the throttle linkage).[sm=drowning.gif] I managed to bodge up the kit-supplied cable by wicking the solder too far into it, so it doesn't bend well inside the sheath. I picked up some 1/16" stainless cable that appears identical at the HW store to try again, but this stuff will not accept solder at all. I cleaned it with rubbing alcohol, brushed on some flux, heated it, and nothing. I tried a 100/140W iron and a small torch. Results the same with either. No matter how much heat I applied, the only way the solder would melt was to touch it directly to the tip/flame (and this includes burning the flux right off and heating the cable to glowing hot, out of frustration[:@]). What gives? Anybody seen this before? Any suggestions? In the future, I'll just use nyrod, but inasmuch as the sheath is already installed, I'm kind of stuck with either a cable or solid rod link here, unless I go hacking away at bulkheads.

Stainless steel needs a special flux to make it accept solder. I don't remember what it is but, the last time I went looking for it, it was only available in gallons.

Les

It's the stainless. It's very hard to adhere to. I had the same problems and just replaced with cable from the hobby shop. I use a small vise to prevent the solder from wicking too far. It acts as a stop point. Hope this helps.

Bill

Yeah, that's what I was afraid of. I should have known there'd be an issue with the stainless. Unfortunately, that's all that seems available around here. Since my hobby shop is all but useless for that sort of hardware, I'll just have to try a few other hardware stores. Thanks for the answers, guys.

-Matt

The smaller plastic tube found in NyRods, or whatever brand you have, will work OK. Use 2-56 threaded ends and clevises, or servo connectors.

They're quite flexible, unless your throttle tube is tied in knots.

Matt,

Have you tried going to a bicycle, or motorcycle shop? Ask for the stranded cable they use inside their shifting/braking cable assemblies. The motorcycle might big a bit large in diameter, dependiong on the size of your nyrod, but worth a check.

See, here's where I shot myself in the foot using kit-supplied hardware. The "sheath" has an ID of maybe 3/32", guessing from the fact that it barely accepts a solder-filled 1/16" cable. I may just cut, drill, and replace this with nyrod or equal. That way I can use a ball link on the carb to help flex too. I guess I'll make a decision when I get home tonight.

Ed, I didn't see your post before my last one there. I'll try the bike shop as a last resort, if I can't come up with anything. Thanks for the tip.

Get yourself a Staybrite silver soldering kit. Will work on stainless. the flux works with ordinary solder too. Works with a soldering gun. Should be able to get it at Home Depot.

Another trick to keep solder from wicking is mark where you want it to stop with a pencil. The graphite will stop it if you don't get too hot.

You could put a coat of vaseline or grease to stop the solder flow

Well, I stopped by home depot after I posted this and finally found galvanized 1/16" cable, which worked like a charm. I simply placed the cable into my helping hand at the point where I wanted the solder to stop and the alligator clip dissipated enough heat to stop the solder flow. I'll keep my eyes open for the staybrite stainless compatible solder though. This store didn't have it. Thanks for all the suggestions. Now, I've just got to route the antenna along the fuse and do a final balancing and preflight check. Hopefully, she flies next weekend.

Be really carefull sniffing the fumes from the galvanize, it'll make you wish you could go blind right before you puke!
Not tryin to scare you, just sharing a bad experience.

[sm=eek.gif]

Point well taken. Nasty stuff.

Is the kit-supplied cable galvanised type ? Haven't had any noxious fumes coming from my kit-supplied cables and from dubro cables. Just wondering

The galvanized cable will usually have a yellow powder form at the edge of the heated zone. I have not noticed this form up on either the Du-Bro cable or Sullivan. I like working with the Sullivan cable a little better, it seems to accept the solder easier.

Matt, you know the cable is a ton easier to cut if you do your soldering first. Just mark an area where you think you want to cut and solder .25 - .5 on either side, then you can make a nice clean cut with your wire cutters without the cable unbraiding.[sm=thumbup.gif]

Matt,

Glad to hear you're up and running. [8D]

Thanks! As this was my first ground up balsa build, I'll try and post some pics for "show and tell" if the wind ever dies down here. I am very happy with how she came out (too bad it took me 7 months to finish it)

What were you building?

A sig LT-25......v-e-r-y slowly. I know that timeframe is shameful, but that's what happens when you spend every weekend travelling 200 miles to see your significant other, then have to help her move into temporary quarters, then have to start planning a wedding and looking for a house. But, I'm not complaining--as soon as we figure out this house thing, I'll have a better workshop!

Looks like you are getting an easy start. Enjoy the hobby and game of life. I get maybe an hour or two three times a week, but they are precious. I hope you enjoy the build as much as the fly.

Yep, that's about how much time I wind up with. I'll get more efficient at managing time once I settle into the new life. I enjoy every minute spent building and flying. Even the mistakes that set one back--in hindsight, I find lessons in them.

Matt

Had similar problems with the cables so I have gotten to the point of make sure that I get the brass coated cables. They accept solder much eaiser and the alligator clip to stop the solder flow is a good one. I also try to keep a paper towel around that is wet with rubbing alchol after I have the cable covered with solder I'll keep it hot long enough to grab the towel and wrap it around the cable and squeeze and pull it off the end of the cable to get rid of the excess. Make sure the towel is folded several layers thick or you have found and instant branding iron

egor

Where did you source the brass coated cables from ? Any website ? Thx

Sta-brite silver solder should be stocked by Great Planes. Speaking of noxious fumes, The acid supplied with Sta-brite will lay you low if the smoke gets in your eyes or mouth! BIG TIME health hazard, but the stuff works great. JIM