At the bottom of this page:
http://members.rogers.com/ctatham/skybolt_assembled.htm
you will see a scheme I want to use for my skybolt. Anyone ever seen this plane or scheme before? I want to see what is on the tops and bottoms of the wings.

I've never seen that scheme before, but I CAN tell you that the GP Super Skybolt is a terrific Bipe! I have got one, and with the proper balance, and a LOT of rudder throw, it does the best inverted flat spin I've ever seen an airplane do. And then you just release the controls, and it pulls right out of it!

Thanks for the info.....you hit a hot button on the balance thing..A guy at the field maidened one on the weekend and it was ungodly heavy. He had a 60 two stroke in it and had to add huge amounts of lead to get it balanced....almost seemed like something was wrong with his method...he actually used a section of a scuba weight plus a bunch of strip lead to get it. I almost couldn't watch when he took off. It flew well but I'll be damned if mine is going to be that heavy....I'm already cutting a hatch to put the battery up front behind the firewall. I'm using a 91 4stroke. What have you got in it and how did it balance? Any other suggestions?

That is Tom Keating's bipe. The photo was taken by one of the many talented Luvara Racing team members at the North Coast Challenge in Ohio last August.

Check out the gallery at:
http://www.luvaraairracing.com/gallery/

http://www.luvaraairracing.com/gallery/ohio01.html
http://www.luvaraairracing.com/gallery/ohio04.html

Unfortunately the pictures at the pages listed above were the ones the magazine used for the article.

If you really want photos or more images of it... contact Mike or Chirs - they may still have some other shots of it.

Good Luck,
Ted

Thanks a ton! I had posted on anyone knowing how to find KT Aviation as that is what was listed under the picture as kit manufacturer and got no response....at the very least I now have some better pictures than I had from the mag. I have sent an email to Chris to see if he can help me.

MinnFlyer...I now have enough time on my bolt to begin to stir it up a bit....I've heard about the great inverted spins they will do but have been scared to try it.....What can you tell me about getting into one and back out with the skybolt.

Chuck

Oh boy, oh boy, OH BOY! Now the fun starts!

Ok, Here's what to do:

Set your rudder throws to MAXIMUM. That is, have the rudder deflect so much that it is almost touching the elevator.

Now, get ALTITUDE!

Once you are waaaaaaayyyy up there, pull back on the stick to get almost inverted, then... Push both sticks toward the antenna (Full throttle, Full Right Rudder, Full Down elevator, Full Left aileron)

It should flaten out after about 3 revolutions. If not, re check your CG. To pull out, just release the sticks.

But remember! Pull out early! The plane is COMPLETELY stalled, and will need to go nose down for a while to regain flying speed. After you've done a few, you'll get the hang of how much altitude you need to recover.

ENJOY!

do you remember.....when yours was trimmed to perfection, how it balanced at the stated cg? ie nose down, level or tail down a tad?

The manual for this bibe states a couple things that I am wondering if you guys followed.

Rudder:

D 8. Draw a centerline all around the edges of the
rudder. Sand the rudder to a taper as shown on
the fuselage top view. The framework should
end up approximately 3/32" thick at the trailing
edge. Refer to the centerline you drew to keep the
rudder symmetrical.

Are any of you tapering this as th instructions say?

Elevators:

D 9 Using a sanding block and coarse (80-grit)
sandpaper, sand both sides of the elevators to a
taper (see cross section on plans) The trailing
edge should end up approximately 3/32" wide

Are you doing this as well, or are you sheeting without tapering and then just rounding off the edges.


Thanks for the help!

Here is the full manual incase you are wondering

I think I got to that thickness on the trailing edges but not likely as gradual as they specified....I get sick of sanding fast. Mine are probably a bit more blunt. You might be able to see mine at
http://members.rogers.com/ctatham

Chuck, I don't recall exactly how mine balanced (I built it 10 years ago), but they way i USUALLY do it is to hold it in the middle of the CG range (By the top wing) and let it lean just a tad towards the nose. Right now, if I lift it from behind the top wing, with my finger between, and just foreward of the cabane struts, it will hang just slightly nose down.

Silver Eagle, Yes, I tapered as per the instructions. It was tough, but it looks great. Here's a trick: lay the control surface down on your table. Take a pen, and lay it flat on the table also. With both laying flat, push the pen so it draws a line on the rear of the control surface, then flip the control surface over and do it again. This will give you two lines that are equal distances from the edges and a good sanding reference. Note: I use this same technique for drawing hinge lines.