Im not sure if im setting up my throttle correctly. The kit came with a small tube for the cable and i cant get the cable all the way thru, its almost there but its so hard to push it thru. I sprayed wd-40 in the tube and that helped a little but the cable is stuck now. The cable is not suppose to move thru the cable freely right? The instructions dont say anything about this. Help!

John

sounds like you kinked the cable or the tube... maybe the cable is fraying the end.. if its fraying the end, twist opposite what would screw the cable in.

If its kinked tube you need a new tube. (if the tube is already installed) Cut it off at the kink if its not installed and see if you have enough tube.

If its kinked cable... you do similar to above... depends where the kink is.

I dislike the cable's Use the tube to rout a wire push rod through!

I wanted to use a pushrod but i dont know if i can get the pushrod to the engine with out bending it in a few places. The tube is not kinked, the end of the cable is not the smoothest but its not mangled. It was going infine until a certain point. If i can use a pushrod i will. I still want to know if the servo is suppose to push the cable thru the tube or does it push the cable and the tube. Reason im asking is because theres no way a servo is gonna be strong enough to do this.

nmtr13

I had the same problem with my 4*120 recently. I just used some larger tube from a pushrod that I had on hand. Works great.

Scott

the tube is to be glued to the formers and the cable should slide with little friction!

A larger tube? The only larger tubes i have is the big black tubes that came with the kit and the tubes to screw the pushrods into. I dont think i can use the black tube because when i give it full throttle the cable with just bend and kink. Does any1 know if i can use a pushrod? This cable is just a big hassle.

John

The cable does not slide at all, mabey when i get the whole cable thru it will.

The throttle cable in the 4*60 is a bit of a bear to get through if everything goes correctly. A very easy fix is to go to your local hardware store and purchase a 12" or longer 1/8" drill bit and drill out the existing cable at the firewall and drill a new hole all the way through to the throttle servo. If your tank is already installed, be VERY careful.

After drilling the hole, install the golden cable that fits in the 1/8" tube. The gold color cable is very stiff while still flexible enough to move freely around a few mild curves. Agreed, you have to spend the money for the drill bit, but I assure you that you will use it again many times in the future on other planes.

I suspect your cable ends are frayed. Solder the ends and file them up to a nice taper

Taken off SIG's booklet. Hope this helps

I cant solder for my life, the solder doesnt stick to anything it just falls all over, and if it does stick its very weak and i wount be able to file it without it falling off, thats y i didnt want to use the stock hardware in the kit as most of it you have to use solder.
I would rather not spend money on this and i dont have money (im 14), cant i just cut off the tip thats frayed?

John

Hey John,

If I were near to your location, I would gladly help. You don't need to buy anything if you could get a club member to help you solder, and you get to learn something from him. To get a good solder wetting, the surface needs to be cleaned of any grease and oxides by light sandpapering, alcohol cleaning, and then with a bit of flux during soldering. Less than a minute job.

Good luck.........Mike

Mabey i need to use flux. Unfortunatly theres nobody that lives near me that can help me. Any way ill try to clean and sand the tip a little and see if it works. BTW where can i get flux? I was looking for it the last time i was at home depot but they didnt have it.

If you don't have a club member to help, I am sure there is a local electrician near you that could do it for free, if you talk to him nicely. He could also tell you where to get stuff. If you were to sand or file without the solder on, the fraying gets worse.

If you have a dremmel and a cut off wheel, You can cut the frayed end off using the outer housing. you will loose s short piece of housing but usualy not a problem. or a peice of shrink tube will work also. The type of solder is important here also. Should have some "Stay Brite Solder" by Great Planes It comes with a tube of liqued flux. Note Flux is a assidic substance! and please read the instructions! and protetct you eyes, lunges, and furniture!

Stay-Brite solder is Sn-3.5% Ag (lead free) and is good where higher strength and fatigue resistance is required. Standard eutectic Sn-Pb solder (electrician solder) is good enough for the cable, and it's easier to work with too. Rosin flux can be used with both solder types. I did not use the bottle of acid flux that came with my Stay-Brite solder kit so far.

I don't think everyone understands the problem. Even if the cable is not frayed, the cable is an extremly tight fit in the tube. Don't know if they put the wrong size in some kits or what happened. On mine it would only go about 1\4 through, and that was with a lot of force. I used a piece of old pushrod tube for a 2-56 rod and ran the cable through it.

Scott

Trouble with frayed ends is the individual strands of loose wires "digs" into the internal wall of the tube as you push it through, hence increasing the resistance as you push it through. Of course you could use a larger tube, but if it is too large, it will increase side play. Holding an accurate idle rpm will be more difficult due to the inconsistent position of the linkage, as the cable "buckles" inside the tube.

Hey guys I got it thru no problem. I cleaned the tip with rubbing alchohol and sanded it a little and I actually soldered good for the first time. It looked exactly like the cable in the pic. It moves nice and free now but i had to trim off some of the tube because it was too long and only a half inch of cable or less could stick out on each side. Now i might even try to solder the metal clevises onto the push rods, i hate z-bends. LOL i also got electricuted by my soldering iron, i have no idea why it happened i just touched the wire and my hand fell asleep for like 2min.
Thanks for your help!

You done good !

Nmtr13, get that iron checked out or replaced. Safety first always at home and at the field

Still sounds like you don't really know how to solder.. You probably weren't getting the wire and the clevis hot enough before applying solder. Also you need to clean the solder tip. When its cold you can use some steal wool. Use a wetted sponge when it's hot. You want to tint your solder iron tip with solder. Hold that on the surface to solder 10 sec or so. Then apply solder on the iron right next to the clevis and wire. Should flow right on. Remove iron. Soldering done. You might want to practic soldering with scrap wire. Almost any solder you can buy is rosin core. So don't worry about flux. You should clean oily surfaces but for the most part any surface that looks clean will solder. I have soldered a lot and the biggest problem is not heating the surfaces enough. When you have plastic insulation and other things to worry about it's a game between getting the wire hot enough and melting insulation.

And don't put any stress on the soldered joint until it's cooled completely, otherwise you can cause minute fractures in the solder joint and it will be weak.

Spokman - I did clean the cable and i also used a wet sponge to clean the tip after reading a "How to solder" website. I think somethings wrong with my iron or im doing something wrong because i can hold the iron on the pushrod forever and the solder still wont melt.