Building a Senior Telemaster kit and looking for input on how to go about making it a 2 piece bolt on wing. Will making it 2 piece alter the structural integrity of the wing? Any drawings or pics would be most helpful. Also possibly bolt on tail feathers, has anyone done this?
All input will be greatly appreciated.

Since the Telemaster has considerable dihedral, I would make the wing in 3 pieces, a center section the width of the fuse (or wider if using rubber bands) with the usual dihedral bracing. Then attach the outer wing sections with 1/4" ID brass tubing and 1/4" OD music wire. The center section would need a removable hatch for access to t-nuts/bolts or however you decide to secure the sections. For an 8 foot wing, I would also add struts similar to a Cub. Keep in mind the extra hardware will add considerable weight. Some builders are now using carbon fibre rods with aluminum or fibreglass tubing. If you have some local builders with experience with 2 and 3 piece glider wings you might seek their assistance.

I recently began making all my tails removable. Parts required are a piece of 1/16 plywood cut to shape of the fuse stab area. Draw a centerline and drill 2 holes 3/16" for dowels, and 1 hole 1/8" for a 4-40 attachment bolt. A T-nut is glued into the smaller hole. Epoxy the fin to the ply plate, then drill thru the holes into the fin for dowels. (Before gluing anything, use the ply plate as a template to also drill holes down through the stab bearing area and the stab). The pictures below show the detail.. Use hand drills (pin vises) files, and a lot of patience, takes some precise work. Hope this helps.

BO

Thanks Bo, those pics really help me out on the tail situation.
On the main wing I am beginning to believe it would be better to just make it one piece because I really don't want to add struts to it and from what I have read if you make it two piece I'm going to have to use struts for support.
Thanks again

I think you have made a wise decision. I made my 1/4 scale Cub wing 3 piece, it was detailed on the plans and the Cub has struts anyway. The Telemaster has a low wing loading, doesn't need the added weight of modifications.

I recently broke a stab on my electric plane (one pictured), it was sure nice to be able to just unplug it to make the repairs. Good luck, if you have any questions let me know.

BO

Bo
Great pictures - so once you have your holes drilled the stab and the rudder fin are not glued together and the stab is not glue to the fuse? So the rudder and the stab are all covered separately and are only held on with the bottom screw? Are you able to apply enough pressure with that one screw to hold the rudder and elevator in place? Sounds great. This sure would make it easier to change out the rudder if you need a larger one or as you said if it is damaged. I have a Challenger and the tail assembly is held on with two threaded rods that go through the tail and holds it on very well from the bottom side with nuts. I am getting ready to order one of the Senior Telemasters to build. And I would like to know if you or anyone else has drawings or pictures of how to make the telemaster wing into three pieces. I have a problem of transporting an 8 foot wing. Also has anyone built the wing in more than one piece without the use of wires on the outside? I want the wing to look like one piece once it is attached to the fuse. I have enjoyed reading this forum. Great assistance and ideas - keep it coming. CARPER

Many build the Sr. Telemaster with no dihedral. I've built them both ways and the flat wing is far more pleasant to fly, also makes the building easier and makes the roll rate much better.

Thanks Rodney - it seems that most of the Sr Telemaster that have been built has followed your advice. Do you have to apply rudder and aileron if you build the wing flat? Also have you built your Senior Telemaster's with flaps? And if so did this help to slow the plane down on landing? I have noticed that the Telemaster just below the Senior has an option with the kit to add the flaps, does the Senior Telemaster have the same option mentioned in the kit? Also I have an RC Modeler Magazine dated in 1980 and it shows the Telemaster with a front nose wheel and mentions in the add that the plane can be built with a tail wheel but that it is not in the kit. I think that must be the year they introduced the smaller (approx. 6 foot) Telemaster? Finally, is the smaller Telemaster easier to handle than the Senior Telemaster? Thanks for the help - CARPER

I've built both with flaps on the smaller one. Either slows down so well flaps are more of a conversational item than a useful one, IMHO not worth the added bother. I much prefer the tail dragger versions but that is purely an individual choice. One thing you must watch out for is wing warp. It is very easy when covering the wing to get a warp in it. Do not use a fabric covering, you need the added stiffness that the mylar covering give you when they are shrunk tight. Propery designed wing struts do help in keeping the wings properly aligned; if you use them, build them as working struts, not just ornamental. Just check carefully for warps befor first flight and use a heat gun to remove any if they exist.

Check out the following link about some pretty good discussion on my Telemaster I just completed. [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/8_ft_of_bones%21__Sr_Telemaster/m_2647207/tm.htm]Senior Telemaster Build[/link]

Thanks for the photo's. I have one on the shelf, looks like a lot of work. I think I'll build a taildragger with a two piece wing and a tube thru the center wing section built as a part of the fuselage. I no longer have a pickup truck to haul it in.

Brunswick GA