orthobird

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i just found this thread, and boy am i glad.

orthobird

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one more question, do we have to fly the DF SD with the wing spars, meaning, are they functional?

Zor

cshahrdar,

A model has to be balanced statically (like in the shop no flying) longitudinally (pitch axis) within the CG range location and also laterally (roll axis) . You are obviously working on that.

It also has to be balanced dynamically while flying.
Dynamic balance is affected by ___
The aillerons rigging that should have their trailing edge in line with the rest of the wings.
Any warp in the wings.
The incidence angle of each wing.

Just things to verify .

Zor

G8er

Do you mean wing Strut? if so then no the struts as built per plans are purely aesthetic and can be flown with out, someone at the field had theirs out with a 1.20 4 stroke and was talking about how they flew theirs w/o struts for a while

orthobird

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yes, you are correct, the strut is what i meant.
thank you,
that is what i meant.

however, in the building instructions, they stated how the struts could be used to adjust the wing washout?
which, if the wing is warped, how could this help any.

i have measured the wing and spar incidence using the hangar 9 meter.

both wings, and root, are even. the right wing at its tip has less washout than the left wing at its tip.

the left wing has 1 degree washout at tip relative to root.
the right wing is o at tip relative to root.

do you think this would account for the plane rolling to left?
or
the engine does not have enough right thrust and it is a torque thing?

83scamp

This most definitely could be your issue. It can also lead to nasty stall tendencies in the plane as well. The right wing will stall first, which could lead to the plane snapping right during a stall. Also, you are going to have to use aileron trim to counteract the difference in washout which can lead to even more trouble. The wing will always be fighting itself. The "D" tube construction of this wing is going to make it almost impossible to correct the washout problem. This wing is incredibly rigid once built.

If you built the plane according to plans, it already has plenty of right thrust built into it. Unfortunately, it sounds like you have a lot of issues built into this plane. Not sure there is an easy fix for any of it.

SticknRudder

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Been a while - thought I'd throw these pics out there to those using the DLE30 as the PS. Built this muffler over the weekend - 1/4"clearance with the cowl.
Enjoy.

SticknRudder

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Didn't intend the duplicate front view (a beer too many....). This pictures shows the 1/4"clearance with the side of the cowl.
The other problem is the DLEengine head - the fins on the the lower right corner (looking at the front view in the post above )need to be trimmed back - they contact the interior corner generated by the air intake and the side of the cowl - hate to do it, but it's gotta go.
Thanks, SnR

speedstik

If ones does snap rolls and other aerobatic maneuvers I would recommend building the struts as functional. Also bolting the wing with the recommended 1/4x20 nylon bolts, there might be a risk also of snapping the wing free.
15 fights with the DLE 55, awesome!

G8er

wow that muffler looks Great! If i ever get a gasser i might have to either commision you to build one or attempt at copying the design

Zor

The wing struts could use the snap method.
They then could snap on and snap off in seconds and be functional.

Zor

orthobird

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can you show me a picture or direct to me what this would look like.

thank you

Zor

I have piictures somewhere in my 5,000 plus pics. I will ty to find them.

Meanwhile think of snaps like on ladies dresses for small airplanes not exceeding 24" span
or like on winter jackets for larger airplanes up to 100" span.

You fasten the snap so they snap in or out at 90 degrees with the wing struts.
Any tension or compression of the struts is not trying to unsnap them because these forces are at 90 degrees with the forces needed to snap them in or out..

Each side has 3 snaps; one at the fuselage bottom side and two at the strut/wing connection.

See how much time it takes to snap in the struts ? About 5 seconds on each side and no tools are needed.

A bit of imagination figures the best way to install the snaps depending on their size.

On wooden struts I usually sew them on with #10 sewing thread and epoxy the termination.

I will try to find my pictures that probably were taken 3 to 5 years ago.

Zor

lamarkeiko

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I increased my hinge mortice depth in the rudder as Zor mentioned on a previous post, and it resulted in a nice almost no gap between rudder and fin. I'll do the same with all my other control surfaces.
Getting back to the subject of which gas engine to put on my SD, I originally was under the impression that I had to go with a Chinese made engine if I wanted gas. Now I realize there are more gas engine makers out there available that are not made in China. With that knowledge now, I am concentrating my engine search on those resources. Two engines I am very much considering are a Mintor 33cc and an OS GT-33. I believe they are both fairly new to the market. The specs on them are fairly close. They are both beautiful looking engines. Prop mounting looks different. I'd appreciate any input out there on these two engines. Espescially from first hand use or seeing them perform. Would like an easy tune and operation for my first gas. Any other non-Chinese brands that may be good that I haven't considered, I'd like to hear about. Please exclude the Zenoah, because I really don.t want to go that heavy.
Thanks
Lamar

83scamp

You cantry Syssa: http://www.syssaaircraft.net/sap.html They are built in the USA.

lamarkeiko

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That Syssa 30cc is very appealing. It would cost me about $60 more than I would have to pay Tower for the O.S. GT-33. How does the static thrust compare between those two engines?

Lamar

Zor

Here is a picture of a big snap as used on larger models to make the wing struts be functional and able to be installed by just snapping on and off without tools.

Zor

orthobird

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check this out:

do335a

It will depend on the prop you use.

Do not expect to necessarily get the same thrust from an identical prop on each engine. You'll probably find that optimum results with each engine require a different prop, that is, one optimized to the engine and its characteristics.

orthobird

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thank you ZOr

now i know what you are referring to

i will make these struts with this.

Zor

You can see that if they snap in at 90 degrees with the struts they can take lot of force if well fastened to the struts, wings and fuse bottom.

They can be bought from most fabric retailers.

Zor

warbirdmustang

My Feedback: (21)

Looks like that airplane wasn't given sufficient time on the runway to build speed, pulled up to abrptly, and snapped to the right. No offense meant, but it looks like it COULD be just a little ahead of it's pilot. Is this the airplane with the built in twist to the wing? That might explain it's flight characteristics also. Just my opinion.
Bryan

Zor

I may be wrong but by stoping the video many times to look at a single frame from leaving the ground to the crash it appears that it has full right ailerons to turn right as sson as it leave gound contact.

Perhaps reversed aileons ?

Zor

orthobird

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you caught that
pretty good

what happened was i took plane with a cross wind,
my mistake
everyhting else people say is true and i am learning from that
what you saw is also accurate,
when i saw the wind was making it roll right, i wanted to make plane completely upside down to avoid the most damage,
which i was able to do
so i did make ailerons to right turn after i immediately saw the cross wind rolled plane to right

83scamp

OK, so let me get this straight. You are at low airspeed, low alititude, and high angle of attack, and you somehow think you are going to pull this manuver off?? Add in the cross wind, and this was doomed to failure from the start. No offense, but I think you need to sit down at this web site: http://www.grc.nasa.gov/WWW/k-12/airplane/bga.html This is a good basic intro toaircraft areodynamics, which a lot of modelers need more of IMHO. I've been flying R/C for over 20 years, and probably 80% of the crashes I have witnessed were due to the pilot not really understanding what makes an aircraft fly. They yank on the sticks, and assume the plane will respond, which isn't always the case.