WILDCRASHWILLY

Dave,

The 18 X 10 should work better for you. If not you can try an 18 X 8 three blade. It might load you engine enough to get the job done. I'm running a 20 X 18 three blade. It sounded like it was loading the engine correctly with the plane on the test stand. Not sure though as I have not flown the Decath yet. I'm running a ZDZ 40 which may have a little more power than a G38. I have never had a G38 so I'm unsure of the power it produces. I've talked to a couple guys at the club that have flown them and they seem very happy with them so it must be a pretty good engine.

nh4cio4,

Was not ignoring your post on the Seagull pants. I'm not familiar with them and was hoping someone else would address your question, so I would learn something also. Evidently others are not sure either from the lack of response.

Red_Jeepster

I will take pics very soon. I have just marked up my plans for the mods to the wing. It shall begin tomorrow!

Red_Jeepster

OK, the wing is started. The pics show the "NEW" root rib I cut from 1/8" Aircraft ply. I copied the W3 rib, only making the opening for the wing tube at this time. Later I will add a small hole for the servo wires.
Notice that I do not go out to the original position. This wing will "butt-up" to the fuse and be attached by wing bolts from inside the fuse. Similar to any of the Extra 300, etc.
I added support at the leading edge with a gusset, and also the hard-point for the wing locating peg or wing bolt near the trailing edge.
I will make sense as I go, and more pics are shown.
I know this is not the first time this has been done to the SD.

Red_Jeepster

Tail feathers are complete. Awaiting polyester fabric covering.

Zor

What are you planning to use with the polyester fabric ?

Zor

Red_Jeepster

I will apply Minwax waterbased Polycrylic for the stick-it adhesive, then shrink with a covering iron at 250 degrees. Followed by a few coats of nitrate dope or more of the polycrylic.
Any suggestions?

Zor

Any suggestions?

I do things differently but if you have experience with the process you describe than by all means go ahead.

Zor

Red_Jeepster

Truth be told Zor, I have not yet tried the Minwax Polyurethane process yet, so PLEASE share what works for you.
I have always either used monokote/ultrakote or on my fully sheeted pattern or Scale warbird planes I fiberglassed the entire plane.
Back in the day of my control line flying I used silkspan and dope.

SO... do share what works for you!

Zor

Red Jeepster,

I have often shared how I do the covering and finishing of my models in the past many years.
It always attracts the unfounded and unsupported opinions and comments from many who have never done it like full size airplanes that are coveed and finished with fabric.

In the next couple of days I will write an article describing my procedure and send you a PM.
I am fed up of reading such comments as _ _ _
It is too heavy while it is not too heavy.
It smell all over the house while proper use of ventilation avoids that.
I have to buy expensive irons to shrink the fabric while I do not own or use a single iron here.
It takes too much time while a little patience is needed for a finish that will last for over 50 years.

Check your PMs approaching the coming weekend 19-20 January 2013 and let me know when you have received it.

Of course you are absolutely free to use any finishing method you may wish to experiment with.

You or anyone can see a lot of this work by browsing the threads "Skybolt Hanger and Clubhouse" in RC Universe and in the thread http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1484799

Zor

Red_Jeepster

Thanks Zor!
I look forward to the info. I am not too old to learn! I'll go check out your web page after I get home from the church. We have a special service today and tonight, and I have to run. BUT I WILL look for that PM.
THANKS!

nh4clo4

My Feedback: (33)

Zor,

Zor

Red Jeepster and nh4clo4,

I will start tomorrow putting together the procedure I use to finish my models with fabric and genuine aircraft dope.

I am not intending to teach anyone; I will simply explain what I do and how I do it.

In the two threads I referred to in my previous posting there is lots of pictures.
One way to go through these threads quite rapidly is to scroll and when you see pictures to look at then also read the text to which the pics are attached. Do whatever you wish or like to do.

nh4clo4 I will PM you also.
Note that the PM may have to be split because I think there is a length limit on PM.
So I may have one about the tools I use and the preparation which is very simple.
Then one about the covering process and followed by one about the doping proper.

Zor

mikem99

Hi guys,
I used Minwax Polyurethane (water based) and fibreglass over balsa to cover my Pica 1/5th scale P51. It goes on like a dream and fills nicely with 2 or 3 more coats. The beauty of this product is that it is 80% water which evaporates off and there is no smell.
IMHO I think that it is a great product when used as above. I do not know how it will work over open webs.

All the best

Mike

Zor

Guys.

Have a quick look over here

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1&pp=25&page=2

Go to post #319

Zor

Zor

Here is another thread some of you may be interested to glance at.

Note that this is linking to a method of possibly finishing the Decathlon.

The fuselage and tail is covered with skirt lining material.
The wings are coverd with light Ceconite.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1484799

Zor

Edited to add the comment below.

This thread is worth looking at as it covers the covering and finish of a complete wing.

Keep scrolling down to see all the pictures and captions.

End

Zor

Ed,

What I am talking about is not "JUSTIDEAS".

It is actual work and results as witnessed by all the pictures in these threads.

Ideas are a dime a dozen.

Zor

Zor

I have sent PMs to participants in this thread per their request and found out that only one attachment can be attached to a PM,
In other words only one picture can be attached to a PM.
That is unfortunate.

Zor

BOLT

Hi guys:

Back to the workbench and the SD. I'm going to install the servos in the cabin and need to know the thickness of the pushrods that I'll need for a safe connection. Any suggestions?

Nothrottle

I used 4-40 in my SD and after near 100 flights that size pushrod is ideal.

BOLT

Thanks a lot, very helpful

Zor

For the convenience of having adjustments at the control surfaces (threaded clevis) I would use rods that end with the theads to fit the clevis.

The importance is to avoid the rods from bending sideways (90 degrees to the normal movement of the rods) so supports should be located approriately for that purpose.

I like to run the rods inside a plastic tube and fasten the tube so it is in a fixed location.
Some small spacers every 3" or 5" keep the rod centered inside the tube.

2-56 size rods work well for models up to 120 inches wing span.

Zor

nh4clo4

My Feedback: (33)

Zor, thanks for the finishing tips.

Zor

YW

flyer35

My Feedback: (33)

Did you end up using the Seagull 120 size wheel pants

nh4clo4

My Feedback: (33)

I've looked at them online, would be nice to know if they will fit, haven't tried them yet, we still have 2 feet of snow on the ground. So it will be a while before I need to do anything to it.
Ed