After a lot of preparations I finally got time to start building my Sig SE. After having asked previously in this forum I've chosen the Irvine 53 for the engine. Here's that thread: [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2286194/anchors_2286194/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#2286194]Engine[/link]

The modifications I've decided to do after asking for advice [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2695937/anchors_2695937/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#2695937]here [/link] are:

1. Using Sulivan tailwheel assembly. Use plywood for the last section underneath.
2. Modify the tank compartment such that the tank can be removed.
3. Change out the push-rods.
4. Sheet the turtle deck.

I've started building the left wing. This is how far I've gotten between yesterday and today:

Just a thought, but shouldn't you of put the tubes in for the wingtube and the servo wire first?

I think the answer to your question is no. If I remember right, the wing tube gets put in after you remove the wing from the building board and turn it over to sheet the underneath side. The instructions for the SE are very good and detailed, so if tychoc is following them, he will do fine.

tychoc - Let us know if you have any questions. I have been following your progress and will watch this thread as you go along. Good Luck, you will really like flying this plane once it is finished.

aerobatixkid: No, according to the instructions you put the wing tube in without gluing it, to fit the shear web. Once the web is glued in all the way you remove the tube and it's put back in and glued into place, as hookedonrc points out, just before you sheet the underside. So far so good. I'm sure I will have questions as I go along, so I will post them here.

hookedonrc: When you sheeted your turtle deck did you have to sand down the spine and the stringers to account for the extra thickness of the sheet? I plan on using 1/16 balsa sheet. I know I'm ahead of myself, but I always try to plan ahead

Tonight I plan on finishing the left wing.

-tychoc

Sorry tychoc, I didn't sheet mine. I built the turtle deck right out of the instructions with no modification.

Oh, Sorry.. I built mine wrong then. It works out fine either way though. Haven't flown mine yet, I am waiting for fundings for engine and electronics. Hopefully will have it flyable by fall.

Shane

Seems like it should work out either way. How long did it take you to build?

Also, if anybody else did sheet their turtle deck, can they please provide a little more detail on what you did?

thanks,

tychoc

tychoc - I am not sure if it will help since it is a different plane, but this 4*40 turtle deck is similar in construction to that of the SE. It might provide you with the steps that you need to sheet yours.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_24...tm.htm#2465127

ty, I did both wings in about 2 nights and the fuselege took about 3 or 4 nights. The tail goes together like a childs puzzel. The SIG Se is an easy build. Im starting on a Great Planes Extra 300 .40 now, just lining up the ribs on the spar.

Shane

aerobatixkid: Woaw, that's fast. I don't have any hopes of going that fast. After the children have gone to beds I have maybe an hour or so to mock around with it. Sounds like an easy build though.

hookedonrc: Thanks for the link. It looked very helpful. THe only thing I don't like is the idea of cutting the stringers and spine, but whithout doing so, there might be alot of sanding. Does anybody else have any experience on this?

thx,

tychoc

I was going to sheet mine, like I did on a 4*60 I built. I just finished covering the turtle deck lastnight and I'm glad I didn't.
I actually like the look. Sheeting it is no big deal. The back piece of the removeable canopy is slightly higher than the front of the turtle deck. Build, sheet, sand and then install the canopy to sand. As it sits now my "glass" is above the covering! You will want to build as normal, then glue sheeting to stringers, you have to sand (shape) the stringers anyway.
It's all good!

Moving along with the wings. Finishing the left panel and started the right.

I'm using a mixture of woodglue (Titebond II) and CA. Whenever possible I use the woodglue. Easier to sand and more working time to ensure a good fit. CA is very helful though in order to make rapid progress.

-tychoc

tychoc - What is in the bags? I have been trying to figure out what type of bags to use for weighting down items while I build. What you are using looks like just what I need...plus I can get different size bags for different uses.

I went the cheap way. Two ziplock lunchbags filled with sand. Works great. No leaks yet.

Total cost: Lunchbags 2 cents each + 25lb bag of sand at Home Depot for $2.19....

-tychoc

I used short pieces of the stringer on top of each bulkhead and sand to shape. lay sheeting over that.
Steve

I'm glad I didn't increase the size of the tail feathers on mine, I built it stock and STILL had to add 6oz of weight to the nose.

h@h racing: The turtle deck looks nice!

Connery: What engine do you have and how much does it weigh?

In general, does the SE usually come out tail-heavy?

Today I've almost finished up both wings and started the fin and stab. So far so good - no surprises or difficulties yet.

-tychoc

I've built two SEs and sheeted the turtle neck on both occasions. It stops it looking like the sticking-out ribs of an underweight horse!

On the first one I used 1/64th ply and on the second 3/32nd balsa. Both worked quite well and gives it a much more pleasing look without a lot of added weight.

Remember to cut down the formers to accommodate the sheeting.

-David C.

I think that pretty much depends what engine you put in it, where you end up with your battery. Mine was tail heavy with an OS46FX in it. I put the battery (1100mah) forward under the tank shelf, and only had to add 1/2 oz on the nose. I did this by expoxying 1/4 oz on each of the motor mounts at the very front of it on the underneath side. Make sure to laterally balance it as well.

I had a 46LA sitting around so that's what went in it. I spent so much extra time building and modifying my 4*40 that I just wanted to get the SE done and in the air. The next SE I build I will probably do all the same mods I did to my 4* and put in a bigger engine, or maybe I'll just do a 4*60 and put in my Satio 100 4S.

tychoc wrote: Are you sure you need to do this?
I used a Du-Bro tank in mine (I don't remember the size but it was the one shown on the plan). After installing the wing tube I realised I couldn't put the tank in place. However after some thinking I realised that by mounting the tank upside down it would slip in place very nicely with no need to modify the tank compartment whatsoever.

You may want to try this before modifying anyting.

/Red B.

I guess you could mount the tank upside down, but wouldn't that put a lot of faith in the tank plug? On the modification that I did I took the bottom shelf and made the arc that is already in the back of the shelf just a little larger. By doing this, the tank will drop down just before it hits the wing tube in the fuse. Then it's just a simple process to pull it out...and you don't have to mount it upside down. I am not against mounting it that way, just never had the experience to know if it is reliable enough. (I am responding because, if my memory serves, I was one of those who told tychoc about modifying the shelf just a little,)

Tjena Red B. Yes, I read your previous post in another thread about this approach, however, that would mean drilling new holes for the fuel lines since they no longer would match up with the pre-drilled ones. I guess either way one would have to do some modifications, and no matter how you look at it, the stock option is not viable. I will look into it further once I get the fuse built.

-tycho

Not that much extra balsa was added. Fin and stabilizer were reduced and added to control surfaces. some extra was added to each also. Added a balsa cowl to the front so balance was not that bad.

I haven't experienced any problems with the tank plug when mounting the tank inverted.
I managed to use to original fuel tubing holes in the firewall. It may depend on which tank you use if new holes in the firewall are necessary or not.
Here is a picture of my SE. I choose to build separate flaps in order to be able to use crow mixing. Great fun!

/Red B.