Has anyone built the 40 size telemaster? If so on the airlons and flaps if you are not going to use the flaps did you build full length airlons or just from where the flaps would end out to the wing tip?Mine just arrived and I am getting my list of changes and how it is going to be done,I was impressed with the wood but I would rather be opening a Sig kit.

No matter how you build it, it will be a great flyer. I've built with both flaps and ailerons and full length ailerons. The flaps are kind of like adding racing stripes to a Volkswagon Beetle, look nice but don't do much as the plane flys so slow anyway at low throttle. The one place flaps help though, if they can be adjusted over the entire range, is for inverted flight. You can set them so that the plane will fly "hands off" both inverted and rightside up without changing elevator trim.

Thanx.I was leaning toward no flaps and leaving the airlons out at the ends of the wing.Just got to think of the best way to get rid of the rubber bands,maybe the 4 bolt system will be the quickest and easest way.

I built one about 12 years ago. At that time the plans called for an unusual aileron linkage with rods & bellcranks, it really didn't work that bad but was kind of hard to set up initially. I think a separate servo in each wing would be easier. With outboard ailerons & no flaps the roll rate adequite for a trainer but alittle lacking for sport flying. If it's your first plane i'd stick with the rubber bands [sig #67] they make the difference between going home early for repairs or strapping the wing back on & continuing flying. However you build it it's agreat plane.

Yes I too did'nt use the single aileron servo but used seperate for each aileron. Flaps skipped adding and after years of flying not sure if they would have been used , maybe an excuise when I crash it.
Rubber bands .. true a pain at the field but it's a trainer and have saved the wing twice when my son flies it. another story.
Have a megatech 46 BB and from here it's a very sweet plane I still have fun flying.
Good luck getting it the air.

Thanx I have to finish covering my lt 25 and then I will start the telemaster,I am gong to skip the flaps and probably stick with the rubber bands seeing I have a couple boxes of them and it will be faster to build.I have been at this a while started with control line and ended up here.Haven't fully completed learning to fly yet seems every time I build one someone wants to buy it and well we start building over again.Just got to get the landings down.I have built two 4* 60's a venture(allso have one of them to build too) an lt 25 and three lt40's.I guess the type of plane is easy to see I like to build.I started rc way back Let's see if anyone remembers these.I built and H-Ray and a Lancer.

I built a Telemaster 40 this spring. I did put the flaps on mine. I also used one servo per aileron which made rigging a lot easier. My suggestion to you is that if you do build it, cut the dihedral to 2 inches and not 4 like the plans call for. They are almost too stable with that much and very diificult to do much more than fly when you get good with it. I built mine with a AXI electric outrunner in it and the performance is unbelievable! If you built a few kits you'll notice that this one goes together a little odd compared to the others. The Germans build their stuff differently than we do. It's not bad, it is just different. It is easy to build and very satisfying. Good luck and keep us all up to date.[8D]

CTDave I too had most problems with earth. Telemaster is alot easier than my 4 * to land but the 4* itself is pleasure to fly. Sometimes it's hard to pick one to take. Do you have a sim, got REFEX for my son but I find Iam on it more than him. Not good with distance point of view but help with dumm thumbs. Also on slow stall screw ups the sim does a good job. Mostly just more comferable on flight linenow.
On telemaster I also took 50% of dihedral out, couple inches on one side. If I remember right the incedent on stab was off, read this somewhere when I checked mine it gave too much down so plane would balloon up. Set it to zero flat with bottom of wing. Everyone who flies it says its better than others so can'nt say if that was why.
In the process of covering a NOBLER this so far is my hardest build. Trying to get done before fall. Hee Hee

I have been thinking of making ythe wing very close to flat,and using one servo on airlons seeing that it is a trainer.How did you fix the stab?did you make a new base with it higher in front?About the only thing I do not have is a sim.My wife said a new radio or that I took a new futaba 6ax pcm I think it was the new one in the magazine section,aleady have 2 6da's so what the heck seeing the new one has 6 model mem. I just might see about using the other servos and rec as flight packs for the other 2 planes.My extra outer ribs came from bte today Now I can use the new ribs to put from the leading edge to the spar on my venture in between the other ribs so the covering won't say less weight than sheeting.

Use two ailerons... Many resaons safety if lose one, flaprons and easier etc. Don't go all the way flat it's a trainer 1 1/2 to 2 inch. on the stab finish build and check yours may be ok. I sanded the fuse, taper the back app. 1/8 inch so all went strianght with engine thurst. On sim IMO get before extra tx then tx with mixing if goning with flapron. PS wife verse this hobby no mix Ha Ha

Knock on wood, mine has not needed any adjustment on the stabilizer incidence. It flies great just as is. I feel that you really should leave a little dihedral in it. Even if you remove it I don't beleive you'll do much better than with just an inch and a half or two.

Your right,I was thinking of taking it out just for the looks.Did you go with a bolt on wing?if so how did you work it?looking at the plans it looks tricky on this bird.Got most of the covering done on my lt 25 so I can clean up the bench and get ready for the tele.Told my wife I need another bench so I can start the venture too.can't tell you what she said as this is a family forum.hahaThis build might go a little slow as i'm going to use tight bond II,I cannot take the ca for an entire build.I will use it very little but that's all,drive me up the wall.

No, mine uses rubber bands. I didn't see any reason to mess with success. I used both glues on mine and the build went quite quickly.

here is one of those great problems.My wife went to our lhs to pick up a few things I needed while I was at work,well not only did she get them she also surprised me with a world models sky raider high wing arf (I know an arf not a kit) well she liked the way it looked and who am I to look a gift horse in the mouth.Now do I start the tele or do I put this one together first? decisions decisions.What a wife she also got me a new radio last week.I better keep her around awhile.

The solution to that problem is easy. You build your ARF while glue is drying on the Telemaster! That way you'll have the best of both worlds!

Hi CTDave,

I don't know if your American Telemaster kits are identical with the ones available here in Germany, I've seen a lot of variations of the plane here. I'm very proud of my Telemaster because it just survived a touch-down from full speed inverted flight with only a few bumps and bruises and it wil be flying again very soon.

Don't use balsa main spars for your wings and elevator, I relpaced them with pine ones and my wing seems to be nearly indestructable. Those few gramms don't matter with a Telemaster, the wing creates more than enough upflift.

Not sure about your aileron options. My Telemaster has (I think you call it) barn door ailerons, and I definitely prefer them over those full length balsa strip ailerons I've seen on other TMs.

Definitely use two aileron servos. On very windy days I like to use the ailerons as inverted flaps (flaps going up to reduce the uplift) to be able to land at higher airspeeds. And you can taxi faster on the ground without accidental take-offs. Also without inverted flaps my Telemaster wouldn't be able to do inverted loopings.

The tail end of the fueselage, with all those slots for the pushrods and the last tiny former, in my eyes seemed to be a weak spot, prone to break. I made a new, longer, elevator mounting plate that reaches farther into the fuselage, so shocks from the tail can better be absorbed by the fuselage side. I cut the upper part of the last former accordingly.

I modified wings and fuse for the wing to be attached with nylon screws instead of rubber bands which I don't like. If you're thinking of doing the same you should stabilize the corners of the fuse's wing mounting area. That's the only spot that broke in each of my severe crashes.

Thanx,I'm still leaning towards the bolts for the wing hold down.I am just about finished with the covering on ny lt 25 should be starting on the tele soon.Between work and my wife getting ready to go out to WA to see our son in the army it's pretty busy around here.If all else fails I will have plenty of planes to build this winter.

I built the main wing with 1" dihedral and it work's great, and hopefully put floats on it for this summer