I have built several 40-60 size kits and have always used the standard CA. I am about to start a 1/4 scale Cap 232 and I'm looking for advice on glue. Is CA up to the stress of bigger models (160FX powered). What about carpenter's wood glue or white glue? Anyone who has experience with 1/4 scale kit building, please pass some advice. Thanks!
Dave

for your size plane I use the same ca, epoxy,etc and still flying the planes with no problems,it's a builders choice.

The only thing I do different on big planes is to add the use of carpenters wood glue in large areas due to the expence of CA.

For instance, if I'm glueing on a cap strip that's 10" long, I'll put a line of carpenters (or white) glue on the rib, but I'll leave the two ends bare and a 1/2" gap in the middle. Then put a drop of CA on each end of the rib, and one in the middle. Now the CA holds it in place instantly (like it always does) so I don't have to pin it, and the alphatic resin glue will dry over night.

I just bought some Tite-bond Polyurethane glue because of recommendation of some guys on this site. Can anybody tell me what to expect ?. Some claim it is as strong as epoxy ! and I also read it expands as it drys which makes it ideal for hinges. Please share your experience

Hi foxx,don't think it is as strong as epoxy,it is water proof,does expand as it drys ,helps to mist one part being glued with water,I use it mostly on wood to foam, if parts aren't clamped together the expansion of the glue as it dries will seperate the parts,sands easy,the fumes can get your lungs.

I think that your Titebond II is an alphatic resin, not polyurthene. Any of the alphatic resins work well and will be stronger than the wood itself is.

Titebond 11 is an alphatic glue,Tite Bond Pro Polyurthene isn't a alphatic glue,also polyurthene is marketed under many other brands.

I totally agree with Rodney about the titebond.Titebond will build a stronger plane than anything else.Like someone else stated,and I also use ca to tack parts in place but the titebond is the stronger of the two including epoxy in my experience.You can glue any type of wood with titebond and the glue joint will be stronger than the wood itself.But you will still need epoxy in certain areas as you will learn,such as sealing the engine area by thinning the epoxy with alcohol.Hope this info helps,my 2 cents.

I am really disappointed with titebond polyurethane glue. I test glued two pieces of wood , but as the glue dried it foamed out and dried like rice crispy and the joint itself broke really easily. I am thinking this glue might be good for confined areas like the hinges but the for the open joints., well forget about it. Any ideas ? am I doing something wrong . I paid $6 for 6 OZ bottle, very expensive stuff and I was expecting a lot more

Foxx, I don't believe there is a Titebond polyurthene glue, you must have your names confused. Titebond is an alphatic resin glue and does not foam.

Foxx, you most deffinently are confused with something else.You will not break the glue joint when using titebond.

A good fit is the secret with any glue. a sloppy fit or bad one will break with any glue . ambroid or testors 65++++

RC outlaw,take a piece of balsa sheeting and a short balsa stick and either put some titebond on one side of the stick or lay the stick down on the sheeting and run a bead of titebond down one side of the stick.Let it set over night and with no pins or clamps and you will not be able to break the glue joint.Even on a loose fitting rib or stick in a stab it will break the wood itself.It would have to be a very poor fit which would need to be replaced anyway.All we are trying to do here is give someone help in choosing a glue that will be suitable for what he want's to do.He has'nt been building over 20 yrs like myself and alot of other's on the forum.We're just trying to help the guy out.

Alright guys I will post a picture to prove that I have not lost my marbles. I bought this glue from lowe's and it has color and consistency of honey. Watch out pics on the way