RVM

What is the "Higley mod"?

FlyingPilgrim

My Feedback: (26)

Higley suggested either replacing the two laminated pieces of 1/8" ply with a solid aircraft grade 1/4" piece of ply, or at minimum glueing in the cut outs to make the firewall more solid for the T-nuts to grab into. On mine, I pitched the piece of ply with the cut-outs, and replaced it with a good piece of aircraft ply. Higley's book "Bipes" is a good reference book for lots of planes, but he refered to the Ultimate kit quite a bit, and had some good ideas.

Timthetoolman1

My Feedback: (6)

Tony, I have no problem with the mounts but like it was said before it's just one more thing to go wrong. The only issue in my plane will be the servos and I have taken care of that. If it's built stock then you will have problems, that's why the Higley method was done, they used those monster air chambered YS 120s without soft mounts back when that book was written and they are still flying.

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

My point exactly. My first Super Aeromaster, which is a bit smaller than the Goldberg Ultimate, had a YS 120N on the issue GP nylon mount, and was built in 1993. The fellow who bought it from me is still flying it.

Not dissing you guys who like/use the soft mounts on these smaller planes; but like he said above, its just one more thing to go wrong.

davesteemke

Mr. Underwood, I filed that wire down a bit. And it went right in. Amazed, thinking it was a fluke, I pulled it out and it went right back in. Thanks 4 saving me the aggravation.
Dave

tuwood

Just out of curiousity; What servo problem did you have & what did you do to take care of it?

tuwood

Glad to hear it worked. I only got the chance to use mine a handful of times & other than a little minor finessing it seemed to go in pretty easy each time.

I wish my kit would hurry up & show up. Tower shows them on backorder until late Apr. At least it will be fresh off of the Lanier presses, so hopefully they've got somebody reading this thread & have fixed some of their quality control issues.
I did get my electronics back from tower & they were kind enough to send me the bad power switch in a little baggie. I will be having a little fun with that tonight... [sm=punching.gif]

Timthetoolman1

My Feedback: (6)

Tony, the issue would happen, not that it did happen.
I always isolate the servo plate with silicone that way any sharp vibrations would be removed. The only thing that gets the vibration from the engine is the fuselage and control surfaces.
I use J'Tec mounts too, but the Ultimate has a nylon mount, and that aluminum transfers everything to the fuselage so that's why I started thinking about isolating the electronics. Don't get me wrong, there will still be vibration, but not the hard vibrations like you would usually get. I still use the rubber grommets with the servos but the whole tray is isolated too. Tim

tuwood

Still waiting.... Tower's status changed to in stock today, so it looks like they got their shipment of Kit's in. Hopefully I'll get it before the weekend.

I've been working on my engine & I think I'm ready to fire it up again. fingers crossed.
As stated earlier, I had to replace the pushrod's. I ended up using a couple drill bits for a form & a hammer to straighten out the bent pushrod covers because they are backordered at Horizon. The last time I had a backorder item from them it took them 4 months to get it to me so I wasn't waiting for that.

I also built a test stand today so I can make sure it's tuned good before I ever put it on Ultie 2.

RVM

I'm sure the motor will be fine! Let us know how it runs today.

That stand looks a lot like the one I'm going to build this weekend to break my .91 in on.

I know you must be anxious to get started again! I hope they get the kit to you soon.

tuwood

Well, I ran home over lunch today to pick up my trainer. (Going to take a friend up to the field so he can do some buddy box flying)
My 1.25 was staring at me & started begging to be ran. I couldn't resist so I drug it out into the driveway & fired it up.

Everything works perfect!!! [sm=tongue.gif] It popped right off & about halfway through the tank I started leaning it out again & was able to get 8500 RPM on an APC 17x4W with Wildcat 15% (still running on the rich side). Digging around on RCU, that appears to be around what everyone else is getting so I'm calling it good. phew, that's one major expense avoided!!

I was having fun flying my test stand around the driveway. I had a cinder block on the back of it & when I went to full throttle it would start dragging it around. Man I love this motor!!

Timthetoolman1

My Feedback: (6)

Cool! I'm glad everything worked out, I couldn't imagine it would be damaged. I consider what happened to it cosmetic.

davesteemke

I have a question. I'm installing a Dubro Kwik-Fuel Valve on my ultimate, but am not sure which lines I should connect to it. I'm using a OS FS-120 III with pump, and my tank has three lines. Thankx

jb86

My Feedback: (8)

if you have three lines you don't need a kwik fill valve, use the third line for fill and drain (the instruction book for the engine has a diagram). the kwik fill goes inline w/the line to the carb, the vent line of a pumped engine just extends out to fresh air (i put a fuel filter inline on mine to avoid sucking up dirt).
jon b

davesteemke

Thankx, I didn't want to put a hole in my fuselage anyway, thank you for your reply.
Dave

tuwood

OK guys, I'm back in the saddle again.

My kit showed up yesterday so I went at it this morning. I am floored at how much easier it is the second time around. I think it took me a week last time to get as far as I am just today.

You'll notice I mounted some blocks to add extra depth for the Robart hinges. Other than that, everything's been stock so far.
One thing of note, so far all of the wood has been very good quality and I've had enough of everything so far.

I also wanted to let you know that I found a solution to my Aileron linkage problem. I stopped by a different LHS over lunch on Thursday & found some Sig Aileron interconnect horns. Somebody mentioned a while back that Sig made some but I couldn't find them anywhere including the web.

I finally have my power switch delima figured out too. Somebody mentioned to me that you could run two batteries with two seperate switches into the same receiver for redundancy. I then found this article at rc battery clinic: [link=http://www.rcbatteryclinic.com/parallel.html]http://www.rcbatteryclinic.com/parallel.html[/link]
So, I bought two 1200mah 6V batteries and two standard MPI charge switches. I now feel protected from another switch failure & it only add's a couple ounces of weight. (due to two batteries)

Looks like the picture upload thing is broke, so I'll upload pictures tomorrow.

jb86

My Feedback: (8)

i have (2) 1000 mah set up the same in an aircraft and a glow driver plugged into the throttle jack. i found out the hard way that when charging the rx's to unplug the glow driver from the rx (it burned out my ace ddvc charging the 1 cell). funny things can happen when you have more than one power supply plugged into on rx. when using the dual batt set up, absolutely, only use identical batt's and size (even though the website you linked says it's not important) so they charge and discharge the same. i have been told to only charge and especially fast charge one at a time, better is to unplug one rx while fast charging. plug one switch into the "batt" and the other into any port. i've done it and works fine.
jon b

tuwood

I agree about matching up the batterires. I played around on the bench with some different mah battery combo's (same cell count) & it did seem to work, but I just wouldn't be comfortable using anything other than identical batteries.
I also bought the MPI switches because they have independent charge jacks & when you turn it off it isolates that battery. So it would be impossible to cross charge anything.

tuwood

Looks like the picture uploads are working now.

Here's pictures from yesterday.

campbec

Hi Tony,

Good to see you are "back in the saddle again". My progress was halted until I received the motor. What a gem! It started backwards on the first flick and fowards on the second. I have run one tank at a one third throttle, two tanks at half throttle and one at full all slobbering rich and even like this it transitions!!!

Thanks for the tips on the aileron linkages and your dual battery solution.

Cheers,

Colin

RVM

Yay!

Those wings look great!

Sorry if this has been answered Tony, but what building surface are you using? I'm using Celotex on top of a cheap hollow-core door and while it's really flat, it isn't perfectly flat. I would, if course, like a perfectly flat work surface, and I can't afford a worthwhile magnetic setup.

Are you going to use the same trim scheme on this plane that you did for the first one?

tuwood

Thanks, I'm pretty happy with how things are going.

My building surface is a standard homemade bench with MDF (it's either 1/2 or 3/4 inch) on top of it. The MDF is very dense & lays extremely flat. Obviously the underlying 2x4's have to be somewhat straight. I then bought a couple drop ceiling tiles to lay on top of it for the pin's. I had to search a little to find ceiling tiles that didn't have a bunch of texture or holes in them. I found these at Menards.
(close up picture attached)

I'm going to trim it pretty much the same. The wings will be identical but I'll change the fuse just a little. I thought there was a little too much white in the tail before, so I need to figure out something there. I also bought blue & black spray paint so I can spray paint the trim onto the cowel. I really wasn't pleased with the monokote checkerboard on the cowel before.

Here's some pictures from yesterday. I spent a few hours working on my other project so I didn't get as much done as I could have. I just picked up an OMP Katana V2. I found myself flying my Somethin Extra a little harder than I should be so I needed a good beater plane.

I was still able to finish sheeting the first wing & have the second wing framed up.

I do have one question about the robart hinge's. I bought the jig to make sure the holes are centered, but is there a good technique to line the holes up on the other surface. Meaning, if I drill my holes in the wing for the hinges, how do i get the holes in the Aileron at the exact same location. With the CA hinges I'd just make wide slots on both & slide it around until it lined up.

Thanks

RVM

I almost did the MDF but went for a door instead. I may go back to the MDF and put some foam insulation or something between it and the 2x4s on my bench to absorb any minor imperfections (I don't see any, but you never know).

Did you use 3/4" MDF or 5/8"? I am trying to find 1" but no one seems to have any locally.

campbec

Hi Tony,

When I fit hinge points I work out the spacing and then drill the holes in one surface and test fit the hinges. With the hinges in place I then place the control surface in place and secure with masking tape. With a soft pencil I mark where the hinge point mounting hole is required. Then drill the holes and test fit. I have found that the small conical stone with the Dremel kit is a perfect size for the outer portion of the mounitng hole.

When happy that all are aligned and moving freely mark each surface to identify where they match up then you are free to cover and fix the control surface.
Others probably have better systems but this works for me and I have yet to have a problem with alignment or binding using this method.

Don't forget to cover the hinge portion of the hinge point with oil/grease/candle wax, yak butter or similar arcane product to ensure the glue doesn't penetrate when mounting the surfaces. I use Lanotec or bicycle chain lube with good results, just make sure it only gets on the hinge not the parts you want to glue.

Cheers,

Colin

Chuckar

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Tuwood I don’t know if you have been to this site but this guy is great [link=http://airfieldmodels.com/information_source/how_to_articles_for_model_builders/construction/hinge_points/02.htm]Install Robart Hinge Points[/link] here a pic of my Ultimate