help with robart hinge points
#1
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From: gilbert, AZ
I cant seem to get a small hinge gap when i try to use the robart hinge points. the gap is almost 1/4. all the hinges are lined up perfect so there is no binding. i just need some advice on how to get a smaller gap with them.
james
james
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From: Sacramento,
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Do you have to actual joint of the hinge buried halfway into the surfaces? What I mean is this: the metal hinge pin that holds the two parts of the hinge together should be right at the edge of the surface of wood that it is in.
#3
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From: gilbert, AZ
yes then pin is touching both joining surfaces. ive never used super hinge points, the gap is just too big for my taste. thats why i was asking for advice. but if its touching i guess theres no way to make the gap smaller.
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From: Sacramento,
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What is keeping the surfaces from coming closer together? An obstruction? When you flex the surface to full deflection, then return it to neutral, is that was is causing it to go to 1/4"? Got any pictures?
#5

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If you have that big of a gap something is not right. I have used then a few times and can get 0 gap with them.
I find the biggest problem with them is you need to taper the hole some otherwise you cant slide them in all the way. Also try to make it so when there in the hole you can slide them in so the leading edge is at the center of the pin as thats the pivot point..
Pat
I find the biggest problem with them is you need to taper the hole some otherwise you cant slide them in all the way. Also try to make it so when there in the hole you can slide them in so the leading edge is at the center of the pin as thats the pivot point..
Pat
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From: gilbert, AZ
I tried tapering the first little bit of the holes and that enabled the hinges to go in properly. thanks for the help, i was havin a stupid moment[sm=bananahead.gif]
James
James
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From: dryden, ON, CANADA
James....... all you need to know and LOTS more.....http://airfieldmodels.com/informatio...ints/index.htm
Cut and paste this chaps link an enjoy....bert
Cut and paste this chaps link an enjoy....bert
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From: Spring Hill,
FL
It sounds like you didn't cut a notch for the hinge knuckle to go into. If you are going for extreme 3D throws then you would bevel the leading edge of the moving surface and the trailing edge of the fixed surface. Then you would notch both surfaces such that the hinge pivot is right in the middle.
For normal aircraft I usually bevel just the moving surface about 35 degrees which will allow about 30 degrees of movement after the covering is applied (if you put the surfaces tightly together with almost zero gap.
Oh, and when I say bevel, I mean double bevel. The apex of the bevel is on the center of the hinge line.
For normal aircraft I usually bevel just the moving surface about 35 degrees which will allow about 30 degrees of movement after the covering is applied (if you put the surfaces tightly together with almost zero gap.
Oh, and when I say bevel, I mean double bevel. The apex of the bevel is on the center of the hinge line.



