That will be nice, at 42% that will be a monster. Do you plan to sell plans for this bird? 33% plane is 140". 42% must about 180" or so? How the hell do you plan to haul it around?

Here's some photos of the servos driving the control sticks, the servos are Diamond brand at 35 in-oz, the elevator is on a pull-pull arrangement, the aileron is a simple setup, used Dubro 2-56 ball links for the connections. Everything works well throughout the travel range.
I decided to add rudder and brake pedals also, these will be stationary.
I think I'm going over the edge with this build, I'd like to have it ready for March but I keep adding more detail here and there, once the cabin is complete I hope to cover the fuselage and lay the pigment to it.
Anybody out there used the Dymanic Balsa interior kit for the Cub? Thinking of gettiing one as I understand the throttle controls are included.

Soon, drawing will be avaible, power is a 3w112cc,weight 48 pounds.more than 5,600sq inches, you work very well Tony

Michel

Here's the floor just about complete, I will finish the floor natural with varnish, all the tubing will be painted flat black after it is glass bead blasted. On to the throttle, carb heat and trim controls. I also need to complete the fuel tank installation, I will be using two Sullivan 10 ounce oval tanks hooked up in a hopper arrangement, the tanks will be located in front of F2 former on each side of the fuselage.

Tony, Where did you obtain the pullys for the joy stick? I assume there is a spacer on either side to keep them centered? Keep up the good approach to the details. I like it!
Thanks,
Kevin

Tony I've been following your build and it looks like it's going to be a really nice model when your done. I'm helping a friend restore an L-4 (Full scale) He also has a very nice J-3 That started life as an L-4. Next project will be a super cub that is ready to start going together. I do all the paint work on these planes as well as help with the assembly. I have lots of pictures of the planes and assemblies if you are in need of any detail shots of anything to help you in detailing, Just let me know what you need and I'd be happy to help you out. Heres a couple of pictures of the real control sticks - shows how well Tony is doing on his detailing. Keep up the good work!
Keith

Kevin
I made the pulleys on a lathe, nothing fancy. Used 7/32" K&S tubing for the axles. I did plan to install spacers however it works fine without any, the pulleys just follow the cable, since everthing is petty much centered, it doesn't more as one might expect.

Keith,
Thanks for compliments and the photos. If you have any photos of the Super Cub, please post at will as they are a great help for any help for that may decided to build this plane in the future.

Work has begun on the left side of the interior, I made one throttle lever and knob assembly. Now that I have the manufacturing sequence down, the second one is easy. The level is formed round on the end and threaded for 4-40, the knob screws on. Also shown is the plug that will used to make the carb heat control box. I tried to vacuum form the part with little success, rather than mess around I plan the simply make a fiberglass part since the plug was already made up. The plug is treated with PVA, once dry I'll put the glass to it.
Very soon I need to decide if the sides will be covered with aluminum or stay with my original plan of glassing the sides to simulate aluminum, I'm leaning towards glassing.
Another neat thing a found at the craft store while trying to find beads that work for throttle knobs is the porportional scale, set it at your percent of scale just read the reduced size, no more dividing by 3, works on all scales, I recommend it to anyone doing a scale project. The search for beads was unsuccessful, so I made the knob on the lathe.

Keith,
Any chance that you might have a photo of the magneto controls and elevator trim panel that I can resize, print and use?

Tony, these are from the J-3..Perhaps they would work? If they are the same as the super cub I can take some pictures that are more close up and clearer, Just let me know what you need.....
Keith

It's been a while since the last post and progress is slow. I spent about a week playing with the elevator control panel. I finally made a 200% scale panel out of construction paper, for the letters I used font printed from the computer, black fill and blue font which are glued to the black construction paper, then photographed and shrunk to size. It's next to impossible to read the lettering in real life let alone the photos shown here. The crank is brass and will be finished with chrome paint.

The fiberglass layup for the carb heat control is complete and fit in the panel, I still need to make the magneto control switch panel that will be mounted next to the carb heat control.

The inner panels will be glassed and painted to simulate the original aluminum panels. The throttle controls are installed. Once I finish the fuel tank installation, fuselage covering will begin.

I hope to use the envelope method to cover the fuselage, both sides will be sewn together along the top stringer and glued on as one piece.

The 2-10 ounce fuel tanks would not fit inside the fuselage without interfering with the rudder pedals so I elected to install a Sullivan round 16 ounce tank instead. To make room I drilled a 3 " hole in the firewall. The front of the tank will stick out beyond the firewall. The tank will be sealed with PFM. All things consided this works out better in the long run, as most fuel tank stoppers do fail over time, even the Dubro brown ones. When failure does occur, all leakage will be outside of the fuselage.
I decided to glass the motor box and firewall for additional strength. I getting closer to covering this thing!
I glassed the inside surfaces of the cockpit area wit 3/4 ounce cloth, this will provide a better finish to simulate the original aluminum on the inside surfaces.

Let the sanding begin, I started to prepare the fuseage for covering. Before so, I added diagonal bracing to the rudder post, the braces are 1/4" balsa. I didn't want the fabric to distort the structure as I learned on the horizontal stablizer. The sanding progress is slow at best as I am taking more time than I normally do. It much earier to remove more later than to add and sand again.

Tony
Looking good, I have a BSA J3, it is in the need to finish stage, I am working on the Jack screw for the Horiz. stab, as I would like to have that be a working item, Your build has some very good ideas, I am thinking about the BSA super cub for a future project.

hi tony i just got back into the rc hobby after a 15 year break and when i found your post i was amazed the detale and the inginuety is stagering I have been reading it from start to finish andwhen i got to the end of page 7, the last page i was very upset i tryed to refresh the site and to find page 8 but it wasent there then looked at the date and relised that your last post was on 12/17/07 not that long ago so now i feal better since i can follow the build to the end. im building a balsa usa 1/4 scale j3 now and plan on the 1/3 super cub next i was also talking to my uncle about your build and said that i want to find a j3 around here [bethel park near pittsburgh] and he told me that oneof the guys we shoot with on the pistole legue was the salesman for piper in this region so im planing on picking his brain soon and finding a good example to photograph. the j3 was the first one my dad soloed in and i have bumed a ride in one back on longisland as well as a L4 in cooperstown in NY this is a sign at the cooperstown airport that you might like i hope it works i have never done this before any way thanks for all the effort you have put in to posting the build for all of us to enjoy and learn from. now please get back to work !

When making the scale trim, fuels and other panels, look in the model railroad section for the rub on letters. They work great.

gachezem,
I took a few days off to finish up my 71 Pro Street Vega. I started this project back in 1998 but when my two childern started college, I just couldn't stand the expense. Seven years and $140,000 later my second child finished college on 12/22/07, I treated myself to wheels and tires for a Chrismas presant. In a week or so the car will go to the paint shop, the Cub is waiting on the bench. I'll be back!

It's too cold to work on my car so the Cub is back on the bench. The stub wings on top of the fuselage didn't match the wings very well so I build the area up with Aerolite filler. This is a Stits product similar to Sig Epoxylite however the Aerolite sands much easier. The inner ribs provided with the kit are either too small or I made a mistake along the way. I had to fill about 1/4" on both ribs so I decided to Aerolite instead of regular balsa filler, it takes a little longer but won't fall out.
I'm finishing off small details like the window flanges and variuos pieces I left out to make working inside the fuselage easier, I hope I don't forget anything!

I made up jack stands out of extra/scrap material for final sanding, covering and painting. I can rotate the fuselage 360 degrees without touching the bench. This idea came out of the Stits covering manual. I wish I would have done so earlier. A couple more hours and I should be ready to cover.

That is such a great Idea. I don't know why it never occurred to me before. I have seen it used on full scale home built aircraft, but my brain just never made the connection. The ones I've seen use an octagonal plate on the end to get even more stop points. Nice build by the way.

It looks like the jack stand works like the octagon plate, I can turn the plane in 1/8 increments. This was by accident and not design, thanks kbear.
I stated covering the fuselage, since I will bury the landing gear straps under the covering, I added little fillers in the grooves before covering.
A rough size piece is cut and glued around the edges with Polytac cement, then srunk and trimmed. Bottom done. On to the top side.

I'm doing the top and sides together using the envelope technique. Two pieces are sewn together right at the top spline then glued in place.
Start by drapping oversized piece on one side, clamp and pin in place, mark the joint with a number pencil, remove, pin to another piece fabric the same size, sewn on the line, cut the excess and glue in place. Sounds easy, I've been working about 8 hours so far and still a ways to go. It's a long way around the fuselage and I got all the trimming left.

Turn the fabic inside out so the excess is on the inside. Carefully glue into position so the that the excess doesn't move around. In my case I put the thread on the centerline of the spline and keep all the excess to the left side.

Well the trimming is complete, finshed at 10PM tonight, all told took about 10 hours to trim and final shrink to 330F. The manual states 350F is final shrink, I just couldn't go that far. Everything is nice and tight so way push the limits? The rudder post came out better than expected, I will use the envelope technique in the future on my next build.
I have built several airplanes, without a doubt, this is this best looking transisition at the rudder post I have ever done. I can't get the same effect with Monokote and balsa filler.