Out of Miller Lite, but is this messy enough?

Now we're talking mess, bjconst let's see some photos, I need proof. I just got back from Cancun, forced to drink Budweiser all week, I don't think I could finish anything on Budweiser!!!!! What are you covering with?

I'm covering with White Solartex with dark blue sunburst. The pop machine is 5' from my work table, somtimes making it hard to work late at night. I didn't receive my kit till the beginning of Nov. & only work on it on nights & weekends. I guess I really don't have a life outside of this silly hobby. Bob

Budwieser in Cancun ? All we got was Corona !!



rv9-a

Sercets Silversands to be exact.

The correct email address for the dash is [email protected] I talk to them all the time and have gotten several panels from them.

Tony,

Do you have any contact information for Chip at F&M. I thought it was in this thread but haven't been able to locate it.

thanks rv9-a

[link]http://www.stits.com/[/link]

Hi Tony - having read through your fun & games with brushmarks I thought I'd try something a little different as an experiment on the J3.

It too, is being covered with Stits Lite, which I did fasten with PolyTak, but then I thought I might go back in time somewhat, and try a more traditional approach from there on, to see how it would behave.

Now, I know that the following is NOT recommended by PolyFibre but hey, it seems to work really well.....

One coat of Nitrate dope overall.
My 'rib stitch' strips were then lightly held in position with a stripe of more nitrate dope. Not a lot, you just don't want them to move about.
Pinked tapes then over them, brushed into position with a good coating of more dope, making sure that all the points are down. Finger rubbing is ok, but not really needed.
Allow to dry. Check the points, and lightly dope down any that are not fastened.
One further good overall coat of dope.
Allow to dry.
Very lightly sand with 4-600 dry to get rid of any nubs etc. Nothing more.

I'm then painting using latex (http://www.houstonhobbies.com/tips/p...ying-latex.pdf) which works like a dream. Limitless colors, the price is very right, and it really sticks like the proverbial you know what...

I've attached a pic of the rudder that's only had one very light coat of latex so far, so you can get an idea what it looks like - not a brushmark in sight - and no heavy sanding either.
It's a little transparent right now, but a few more light coats will solve that.

Food for thought?
Mike

So Mrbill are you brushing your latex or spraying it? I'm just at the point of shooting my color this week. I put my rib stiches down with the glue drop method, BTW don't us gorrilla wood glue to do that, it turns dk brown when it dries. Regular Tite bond is almost clear. I have put down 3 coats of Nitrate with the last one having baby powder, lite sand with 400 and latex over that. My nitrate has appeared to gasout after only 2 days as there is no smell left at all. I've had it under my CoRay Vac infrared since Sunday, it's dry or maybe baked would be a better word. Anybody use that method? Khelsea

Spraying with a small gravity feed touch-up gun.

9 tsp latex, 1oz washer fluid, tsp of Floetrol
20-25 psi = almost no overspray.

Cheers, Mike

Tony,

It looks like the plans call for the firewall to be 90 degrees to the thrust line and the engine shimmed to give 2 degrees of down thrust. I was thinking of building the 2 degrees in and avoiding the shimming. Do you see any problem doing it this way?

thanks, rv9-a

My memory is 2 degrees down thrust, zero right thrust. The first photo clearly shows the down thrust, the second photo shows right thrust, don't mind the dirty laundry, can't see any right thrust built in. Maybe some successful builders can weight in here, I'm still painting so I can't report if any right thrust is necessary or not. From my experience right thrust is only necessary on grossly overpowered airplanes, I don't expect my build to be overpowered. Posted some photos of the progress.

I called Dave from Balsa-USA about building in the correct amount of offset. He is against that, he said you don't need to do that. Dave had me, looking at the plane from the front, put 2 washers under the upper right side, 1 washer under the right bottom & 1 washer under the left top motor mounts. No washer under the bottom left. I am using a DLE-55 & put the motor mounts on with red loc-tite before I put on the sheeting. I'll make any adjustments from the outside if I need to later. I hope this helps. Bob Johnson

Tony & Bob,

Thanks for the ideas. I have also talked to Dave and he told me the same thing, thought I might get some different opinions. I would like to use a DA-50 but I wonder if it will be enough power. I fly from two different fields, one is about 3300' the other is close to 4000'. Any thoughts on that?

thanks, rv9-a

By the rated HP, your DA or my DLE should be great. I have a DA-85 & was told not to try it, way too big. I think the majority of these planes are being flown with Zenoa 62's. This engine has less horsepower than either of ours. I fly a real j3 cub, and its little 75 horse engine pulls me & a friend around with no problem. Not the same thing, but that wing has a lot of lift. Good luck, Bob Johnson

We have a BUSA clipped wing Super Cub at our field, with a Zenoah G62 on board, and it's pretty much a rockership. Not 3D, but gets off the ground in a couple of feet, and is totally very aerobatic. It weighs around 36 lbs.

Mike

Mr. Bill, Thanks for the latex tutorial. It worked really well. I did mix one batch that was off a little and it showed so your calc is stop on. Tnx, Khelsea Lanny

Mister Bill

Did you coat the whole airplane with the the nitrate dope?? brush or spray ?? Did you spray a primer before you sprayed the paint???

Check out post#408 in this thread. It has all my info plus the latex primer from Roy Vaillaincourt etc.

But basically I brushed 1 coat nitrate on all the fabric.

Brushed nitrate on the ribs to attach the 'wing stitch' strips.
Brushed nitrate onto the stitch strips to tack the pinked tape.
One coat nitrate on the pinked strips only, making sure all the points are down.

One final coat nitrate overall.
Allow dope to dry & 'fume' off.

Spray latex - as many as you need.

No primer - though depending on your colour, and if you want to block any light showing through the framework, a coat of silver is not a bad idea.

Cheers, Mike

Mister Bill I did read 408 and I was looking for more info, Thanks

No problem - I trust that this answered the question. If not let me know & I'll see if I can help - though I'm pretty new to this system too!

Cheers, Mike

I believe this plane would fly scale like with a 30CC engine, the 50 will be great.

Mister Bill

Thanks, 408 starts it and 420 finishes.

A DA-50 it is. After all except for a few highly modified air show planes the Cub/SuperCub is not an aerobat. Ours is coming along, sometimes it is one step forward and three back but it will get there !!

rv9-a