SIG Astro Hog
#26
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From: Singapore, SINGAPORE
ORIGINAL: buzzard bait
Why 0 degrees dihedral?
Why 0 degrees dihedral?
) But although I have glued the last rib at the joiner to 90º, I am now going to revert back to at least 3º with some unecessary mods at the joiner.
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From: Brandon,
MB, CANADA
hey, i was just skimming through and all i have to say is good job with the building, and please.....pretty please consider using fabric. i think fabric covered planes look really nice, and a bipe like this would really stand out at the field. plus fabric is very durable. doesnt get ripped or holes poked in it like film.
I really dont like iron on films (although they are easy to apply and are nice and lite) but i think it makes a nice kit built plane look too "ARFy"
one thing i hate the most is when ppl ask if my plane is an ARF.
I really dont like iron on films (although they are easy to apply and are nice and lite) but i think it makes a nice kit built plane look too "ARFy"
one thing i hate the most is when ppl ask if my plane is an ARF.
#30
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From: Brandon,
MB, CANADA
sorry, got the hogs mixed up....my bad. I always get them bassackwards. when im thinking one, ill say the other. maybe too many toxic fumes in the shop! either way, both planes have a "classic" look to them and i feel are meant to have fabric, not film
#31
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From: Singapore, SINGAPORE
I have already purchased the monokotes, so fabric is out. The colour scheme I am intending to do is gonna be very similar to big dan's hog.
#32
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From: Philadelphia,
PA
ORIGINAL: mechplas
I have recently embarked on a KIT building project. It happens to be a Astro Hog from the 80's. This would be my first 60size kit, so bear with my cock-ups. I hope to get some tips from those who had already been there done that with this HOG.
I had made reference to this existing thread, [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3462912/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm]LINK[/link] but could not find much built pics. So feel free to hog this thread with your built pics if you like. I am sure it will help all the hoggers, especially me.
I have recently embarked on a KIT building project. It happens to be a Astro Hog from the 80's. This would be my first 60size kit, so bear with my cock-ups. I hope to get some tips from those who had already been there done that with this HOG.

I had made reference to this existing thread, [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3462912/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm]LINK[/link] but could not find much built pics. So feel free to hog this thread with your built pics if you like. I am sure it will help all the hoggers, especially me.
Thanks for posting your build process. I have a hog on deck for my winter project. I'm going with dope koverall and dope. Im not too sure about the engine yet. I'll post my progress as well. You're build looks really good so far, keep up the good work!
#33

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From: Paso Robles,
CA
Well, seeing this thread has energized me to finish mine up. It's about 80% done. I need to do some sheeting on the fuse, and a little on the wings.
Mine will have an inverted Saito .91 inside of Stans Fiberglass cowling. My plan is to finish it in a PT-19 scheme (Taildragger.) 1 servo in each wing, Robart's plastic strut covers for the LG, etc.
Mine will have an inverted Saito .91 inside of Stans Fiberglass cowling. My plan is to finish it in a PT-19 scheme (Taildragger.) 1 servo in each wing, Robart's plastic strut covers for the LG, etc.
#34

I think you were right to use some dihedral--it's not the same as a SPAD because there is a substantial fuselage above the wing--that creates the opposite of a dihedral effect. The plane would probably have been a little unstable right side up and stable upside down. Some dihedral will help neutralize the effect. Jim
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From: Marysville, MI
I am installing the ailerons by the instructions. I have seen some discussion on having servos for each aileron with the astro hog. I will be using a jr radio that will handle the extra channel needed, but why would it be beneficial to do this? If so, would there be enough room to mount them in the spot designed for the aileron servo? I have really slowed down on my build since I've been reading these threads. some really grat ideas that i've already put to use. plus the extra time i have devoted to sanding and shaping, really looking good, thanks so much.
rkliemann
rkliemann
#36
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From: Rowlett,
TX
Mine is built with the single servo.
It works well. I twist the plane around pretty good and have not had any issues.
I bought this plane second hand, if I was building it myself I would use two servos mounted out in the wing.
Why ?
Good question, since this plane does not need it I guess the answer is just because.
It works well. I twist the plane around pretty good and have not had any issues.
I bought this plane second hand, if I was building it myself I would use two servos mounted out in the wing.
Why ?
Good question, since this plane does not need it I guess the answer is just because.
#37
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From: UK, UNITED KINGDOM
rkliemann
Why two servos?
Because imo it's much easier/better when you come to trim out the model for satisfactory flying.
Sure, you can manage on one - but if you are a 'second best wont do' kind of person, then it needs to be two.
Why two servos?
Because imo it's much easier/better when you come to trim out the model for satisfactory flying.
Sure, you can manage on one - but if you are a 'second best wont do' kind of person, then it needs to be two.
#38

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From: Paso Robles,
CA
Why two servos?
That's easy...because:
1) it is very easy to adjust direct linkages to perfection,
2) this plane has a six foot wingspan...might as well minimize servo blowback and slop caused by the excess moving parts associated with the original design,
3) Once you've flown a plane that is truly set up properly (even a slow-flying plane like the Hog) you can't go back to flying a plane which you are constantly "reacting to" or needing to fight its bad tendencies caused by the above two conditions.
With the above in mind, I'm hoping to balance the plane with at least one of the tailfeather servos (elevator) in the rear for the same reason. I don't know how the plane will balance with the Saito .91 in place of the 46 - 60 size 2C engines this plane was designed for.
When the plane was designed, servos were larger and heavier, where today we can choose from many lightweight, powerful servos with low profiles and other features like side mounting tabs...seems like wing servo installation will be fast, easy, and fly the plane better.


The pics show aileron servos burried in the wings of a Super Cub and a Giant Scale Edge 540. That's how I plan on installing mine.
That's easy...because:
1) it is very easy to adjust direct linkages to perfection,
2) this plane has a six foot wingspan...might as well minimize servo blowback and slop caused by the excess moving parts associated with the original design,
3) Once you've flown a plane that is truly set up properly (even a slow-flying plane like the Hog) you can't go back to flying a plane which you are constantly "reacting to" or needing to fight its bad tendencies caused by the above two conditions.
With the above in mind, I'm hoping to balance the plane with at least one of the tailfeather servos (elevator) in the rear for the same reason. I don't know how the plane will balance with the Saito .91 in place of the 46 - 60 size 2C engines this plane was designed for.
When the plane was designed, servos were larger and heavier, where today we can choose from many lightweight, powerful servos with low profiles and other features like side mounting tabs...seems like wing servo installation will be fast, easy, and fly the plane better.


The pics show aileron servos burried in the wings of a Super Cub and a Giant Scale Edge 540. That's how I plan on installing mine.
#39
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From: Singapore, SINGAPORE
I will be using two servos for aileron control. My excuse is because I have 6 pcs of Hitec 645MG.
But I would do this also to divide the load and have independant trimming for each aileron.
The weekend was supposed to be used for continuing the build, but guess what, the toilet flush started leaking and everything when downhill from there. [&o]
Anyway, I had only a couple of hours in my hands for the Hog so this where I am right now.
There was a lot of shaving that needs to be done on those doublers.[>:] I will be drilling holes on the firewall before glueing the right-side of the fuse. But I was thinking I should get the engine and mounts first....
But I would do this also to divide the load and have independant trimming for each aileron.The weekend was supposed to be used for continuing the build, but guess what, the toilet flush started leaking and everything when downhill from there. [&o]
Anyway, I had only a couple of hours in my hands for the Hog so this where I am right now.
There was a lot of shaving that needs to be done on those doublers.[>:] I will be drilling holes on the firewall before glueing the right-side of the fuse. But I was thinking I should get the engine and mounts first....
#41
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From: Singapore, SINGAPORE
ORIGINAL: rcdivot
BD's Astro Hog - Insignia Blue and Cub Yellow monokote.
BD's Astro Hog - Insignia Blue and Cub Yellow monokote.
Hmmm... I thought it was orange not yellow. Oh well, its gonna be my version of BD's Astro Hog.
#44
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From: Singapore, SINGAPORE
ORIGINAL: buzzard bait
I think you were right to use some dihedral--it's not the same as a SPAD because there is a substantial fuselage above the wing--that creates the opposite of a dihedral effect. The plane would probably have been a little unstable right side up and stable upside down. Some dihedral will help neutralize the effect. Jim
I think you were right to use some dihedral--it's not the same as a SPAD because there is a substantial fuselage above the wing--that creates the opposite of a dihedral effect. The plane would probably have been a little unstable right side up and stable upside down. Some dihedral will help neutralize the effect. Jim
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From: Rowlett,
TX
Use what ever servos you want, there is certainly nothing wrong with 645MG's, but just so you know standard 425's have plenty of torque for this plane.
#46
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From: Singapore, SINGAPORE
Thanks Charlie, I have those 645's salvaged from a 40cc gasser Extra and thought that I should not spend another cent for servos but channel them to getting a new Saito82...

#47
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From: Marysville, MI
I have super tigre .61 for this plane. By the instructions I read this is the upper end 2 cycle engine for this plane. Being new and reading all the threads, it would seem that I would be better off paying more $$ for the 4 stroke? Big difference in price, but if it is really a better fit I'm in. If it really isn't necessary than I will use the ST.
rkliemann
rkliemann
#49
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From: Singapore, SINGAPORE
Done up the a bit more work on the firewall. I did not cut-out the soft balsa for the top two blind nuts. I compressed it far enough and later after applying epoxy, I think it should hold. 
and of-coursse now I am left with the most troublesome part ,.. the throttle level [
]

and of-coursse now I am left with the most troublesome part ,.. the throttle level [
]


