GP Super Skybolt progress
#1
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I've been busy with some house and work stuff lately but I'm finally back to work on my skybolt. I thought I would post a couple pictures of the progress. The fuselage is basically complete and I'm in the middle of installign the tail feathers. i've read the other threads on this plane but if anyone has anything to offer in the way of building and flying this plane, I'd love to hear it. I was going to use an ASP .90 2-stroke that I recently aquired but I've decided to go with a 1.20 4-stroke instead.
#3
Thread Starter
Senior Member
The filltet does look alittle wierd. I was thinking about carving something out of solid balsa instead but I'll give it a try as shown in the instructions first.
#4

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If you have not glued on the stab and fin, create a "dummy" stab and fin filler piece the same thickness as the surfaces. Cut these to the shape of the fuse, and tack in place with a couple of drops of glue. Then tack the filler blocks in place, and sand to correct shape, using the fuse as a guide. Then remove the parts & install the flying surfaces. Now the filler blocks will be the exact shape needed.
Hope that description is not too confusing. It's really simple, just sounds complicated.
Hope that description is not too confusing. It's really simple, just sounds complicated.
#5
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ORIGINAL: TLH101
If you have not glued on the stab and fin, create a "dummy" stab and fin filler piece the same thickness as the surfaces. Cut these to the shape of the fuse, and tack in place with a couple of drops of glue. Then tack the filler blocks in place, and sand to correct shape, using the fuse as a guide. Then remove the parts & install the flying surfaces. Now the filler blocks will be the exact shape needed.
Hope that description is not too confusing. It's really simple, just sounds complicated.
If you have not glued on the stab and fin, create a "dummy" stab and fin filler piece the same thickness as the surfaces. Cut these to the shape of the fuse, and tack in place with a couple of drops of glue. Then tack the filler blocks in place, and sand to correct shape, using the fuse as a guide. Then remove the parts & install the flying surfaces. Now the filler blocks will be the exact shape needed.
Hope that description is not too confusing. It's really simple, just sounds complicated.
#6
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From: Nettleton,
MS
alright chuck.......you might want to consider this....
the stage you're at now, with the fuse. you might want to skip ahead and assemble and attach the cowl just to see how things will fit with the engine and cowl in place. i started my build with the engine @ 90 degrees but when i got to the cowl, i noticed i would have to cut the cowl to heck and back to get it over the head. i changed and went with an inverted setup on the engine. i used o.s. 1.20 supass w/ pump. which 1.20 did you decide on?
the stage you're at now, with the fuse. you might want to skip ahead and assemble and attach the cowl just to see how things will fit with the engine and cowl in place. i started my build with the engine @ 90 degrees but when i got to the cowl, i noticed i would have to cut the cowl to heck and back to get it over the head. i changed and went with an inverted setup on the engine. i used o.s. 1.20 supass w/ pump. which 1.20 did you decide on?
#7
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Good idea. I'm probably going to order a fiberglass cowl. I'll probably go with the same engine you did but I haven't bought it yet.
#8
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Senior Member
Normally I have then engine on hand before starting the build. In this case, I planned on using the ASP .91 which I have but this plane definitely deserves a 4-stroke.
#9
I didn't find the tail fillet all that tough, as I recall. For me it was making the flat front fuselage sides become curved (while cracking one in the process) and then shaping the balsa tree trunks into the bottom of the front part of the fuselage.
After a LONG layoff, I'm finally back to work on mine. Top wing is about done. I did a really crappy job sheeting the center section of it, so I would probably say that was also a tough part for me.
-Scott
After a LONG layoff, I'm finally back to work on mine. Top wing is about done. I did a really crappy job sheeting the center section of it, so I would probably say that was also a tough part for me.
-Scott
#10
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Senior Member
Luckily I didn't crack the fuse sides. It was alittle tough to clamp them in place at the firewall without denting them no matter what sorts of pads I rigged up (Tape did not work either). A little water and a covering iron pulled the dents out though and it looks good now. I didn't mind the carving and sanding. My biggest problem so far has been the cabane wires. They weren't bent that accurately from the factory and it took a lot of tweaking to get the alignment correct. I have a feeling that I'll have to tweak the incidence a little more once I fit the top wing.
#12
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I just have a comment about the engine...
I love OS Engines, but I have heard a lot of bad things about that pumped 120. Why not go with a YS 110? It costs about the same as a non-pumped OS 120 and it will allow you to move the tank back to the CG
I love OS Engines, but I have heard a lot of bad things about that pumped 120. Why not go with a YS 110? It costs about the same as a non-pumped OS 120 and it will allow you to move the tank back to the CG
#13
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That's definitely soemthing to consider. Tonight I got the horizontal stab glued in place. While I was waiting for it to set up, I started framing the bottom wing. I didn't expect the parts to fit together so well, the bottom wing is nearly done. Sorry fo the poor picture quality. My good camera is sitting on my desk at work. Next I'll tackle the tail fairings and finish up the wings.
#14

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From: Boise, ID
Chuck, looks good. I have built one also and love the lines on this bird. One word of caution, as previously mentioned; it builds very heavy!! Most of the weight is in the fus. as you know, be sure to sand the living heck out of it before covering.
Mine has a OS 91 FS on it and flys good, not 3D good, but good. Even with the 91 on it I had to add a lot of weight to the nose, with servos up front and battery under the tank. The YS would give good power, but again it is a weight issue not a power issue.
Mine has a OS 91 FS on it and flys good, not 3D good, but good. Even with the 91 on it I had to add a lot of weight to the nose, with servos up front and battery under the tank. The YS would give good power, but again it is a weight issue not a power issue.
#15
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Nice lookign plane. I agree, the fuse is pretty heavy. Tonight I got the tail fairings done; they weren't as bad as I thought they would be. I'll move on to finishing the wings next week. I'll post more pictures when I make a little more progress.
#16
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From: Nettleton,
MS
surf.....that is a great looking bolt. i'm sure it flies as great as it looks. i know mine did what little bit i got to fly it last weekend on the maiden.....before it deadsticked......LOL
good progress chuck. you're making a lot better headway than i did on mine. of course i NEVER get to work on plane projects as much as i'd like to......LOL
good progress chuck. you're making a lot better headway than i did on mine. of course i NEVER get to work on plane projects as much as i'd like to......LOL
#17
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From: Bettendorf, IA
Looking good Chuck. Just my 2 cents on the engine, Mine has a Saito 120 mounted inverted and it flys very well. I have a 3 bade 14x8 MA prop which looks awesome on a bibe. I think if you mount it inverted you don't have to chop big holes in the side of the cowl and destroy the lines of the planes. I have on board glow but have flown it several times without it being operational and the saito runs fine inverted. Good luck Steve
#18
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From: Nettleton,
MS
if you mount it inverted you don't have to chop big holes in the side of the cowl and destroy the lines of the planes
#19
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From: Antelope Valley,
CA
Hey the gangs all here!
Now that I think about it. I should of went with the pumped inverted 4 stoke. Would have solved the exhaust mounting problems.
Looking good Chuck,
Mods
Now that I think about it. I should of went with the pumped inverted 4 stoke. Would have solved the exhaust mounting problems.
Looking good Chuck,
Mods
#21
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From: Bettendorf, IA
it might look better if you sheet the entire wing but this plane is heavy enough. do all you can to save weight. Mine with the Saito 120 up front and the elevator servo in the tail is just right. Do not add un-neccessary weight to this plane.
#23
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From: Nettleton,
MS
they do FINE with the 1.20 but mine has LIMITED vertical which is not a bad thing in my eyes. it flies more true to scale for a bipe so to speak. unless HIGHLY modified i can't think of but maybe one bipe that has UNLIMITED performance. i think that if you're looking for unlimited vertical, 3d, and outrageous aerobatics you should look at the ultimate series with an overpowered engine that gives at least 2 to 1 power over weight ratio.
just my $0.02 worth.
just my $0.02 worth.
#24

My Feedback: (16)
I couldnt agree with you more on that one. But i think the skybolt would be a close call to a ultimate with a good 1.20 on it at sea level. And they each other their good points and bad but I dont think I could come up with 5 things that are bad with an Ultimate? The skybolt would be how it builds on the cabians (sp) and the outer wing struts i think suck IMO ..... not starting a war here or anything like that...but they are both well thought out birds over all.[&:]
#25
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From: Nettleton,
MS
just a quick update on mine.......
found the problem with my "limited" vertical........bad rear crankshaft bearing. took it out a couple weeks ago and the motor sounded like ....... i don't know what. shut it down and turned the prop, there was a scrub and grind in it.
brought it home and found the cage that keeps the balls spaced out was completely gone. nothing but small pieces (app 1/8 by 1/4 or less) left. got new bearings from a bearing supply house locally and ....... WOW talk about a difference.... it flies lilke a different plane. i now have enough to go as high as i dare. the 1.20 does this plane wonders.
found the problem with my "limited" vertical........bad rear crankshaft bearing. took it out a couple weeks ago and the motor sounded like ....... i don't know what. shut it down and turned the prop, there was a scrub and grind in it.
brought it home and found the cage that keeps the balls spaced out was completely gone. nothing but small pieces (app 1/8 by 1/4 or less) left. got new bearings from a bearing supply house locally and ....... WOW talk about a difference.... it flies lilke a different plane. i now have enough to go as high as i dare. the 1.20 does this plane wonders.


