Chris,

I have not conributed to this thread an a long time because I have not been working on my Ryan. But I did just purchase fiberglass wheel pants and a cowl for the kit. The ones from the kit seemed to be a rather daunting task to put together so I took the easy way and bought them and they do look pretty good. I will probably begin to work on it again but I need to go back and do some more mods. I will be changing the aileron servos from one to two which will require making servo holders in the wings and removing the horns that I have already installed. I will also continue to modify the landing gear as described by Nichrome earlier in this thread. I have beefed the blocks up and glassed the center section but I have not put the extra rod on the supplier gear. I can't say when I will be getting to it again but I may be able to snap a few pics of the project as it sits today? I got a lot of good advice from Nichrome as he has built more than one of these kits. Bishwheeler also seconded the advice from Nichrome so it would be wise to refer to these guys if you have any questions. I would also be more than willing to help in any way I can. Good luck.

Scott

Hi All!

My first Sig Ryan had flaps...and I will be including them on the next for sure! When you deploy them fully down there is little change in pitch - which is nice. Flaps come down about 60 degrees from memory - but I would like more - and they are SOLID balsa!

The undercarriage is something I would change - its currently 'under repair' for about a year!

...and fit a servo for each aileron instead on a single central one, but keep it light !!

Being from the UK, i dont see these kits anymore... are SIG still manufacturing?

regards

Piotr / starski

Starskipz,

I also have flaps on mine but I don't remember the throw angle. I concur about using two aileron servos and also beefing up the landing gear. One other thing to repeat here is to not use the plastic hinge material supplied. Use Robart pin hinges and add extra balsa in which to insert them for all control surfaces. Unfortunately I had installed the supplied hinges and sheeted the center section before I learned about the necessary mods. I then had to rip out the hinges and also rip off the sheeting for the center section to beef up the gear block supports as described by Nichrome earlier in this thread. If any one has the ability to take and post some pics let's do so. It would be interesting to see how everyone is doing on this kit. Also, Sig no longer makes this kit so if you have one consider yourself lucky although I have seen a couple for sale in the last year they have been very few and far between. Good luck.

Scott

Hi SNIGGEMANN,

yes - i bought mine mail order from the states - cant remember the price - but I recall the $50 postage ! - arrived OK, and is still in the box...

I was thinking I might build the wing - yes, just the wing, only 'better' and using it on the existing model i have... & then sometime start the rest, so I should hopefully have two intact SIGs !

I'd also move the wheels further forward...trying to keep the spats on & flying off grass!

Plus photos this time as I build!

cheers

starskipz

Here are a few pics. I've tried to show how I added extra balsa in which to attach the Robart Hinges. Also there's a pic of my new fiberglass parts I just recieved.

Scott

Scott nice work, the cowl and wheel pants look good, I have order a cowl, I probably will order the wheel pants. you are right about complexity of the wheel pants, it does look like they needed a few more pieces for them. The Robart pin hinges, what size did you use.
Chris

Chris,

I used the mid sized hinges - part #308 - 1/8" Hinge point. If you can please post some pics of your build.

Scott

Well guys glad to see that you took my advise on beefing up the landing gear and using the Robart hindges which is the medium ones. The way I beefed up the landing gear is by adding a second support wire to the back of the landing gear strut and angleing it back to the wing then make a short 90 degree bend then bend again to a hole in the block of hard wood at the back of the landing gear. I haven't measured it for sure but the block should be about two or three inches behind the gear. If you do it rite the wheel pant cover will hide this support quite nicely. If you think it will help use the gear wire cover as a template to get the rite angle for the suppot wire and location of the hard wood block.
Barzini the plastic covers that you are questioning about go on each side of the rudder. On mine I made my tailwheel free float instead of tying it into the rudder. Also if you guys can fabracate better brackets for your flyig wires do it now the metal ones are sharp and to me a little testy to keep trying to hook the flying wires to. On the brace that goes from the fuse to the wings I used a wire at the bottom of the suppot down into the wing to a wood block. Then on the top of the suppot I used small screws to attach to the fuse. I hope that this will help you guys and I will try to give you more info if you need it. Sorry I dont have a scanner other wise I would post some pictures of what all I have done to mine and what my birds look like especially the one I converted to a bype.

My fuse is partially assemble need to install firewall, have been debating what to put in, wanted 4 stroke, was then having trouble deciding what size 70, 80, 90. saw a thread where someone installed a 90 and said it fly well, finaly bought a magnun 91. came today have 3 day weekend going to try installing firewall tomorrow, looks like firewall needs set back 1/2". will make accurate measurments
tomorrow. firewall will need to be a little wider. will post pics.


Chris

I finally was able to work on my Ryan, I wanted to go 4 stroke, settle on a Magnun XL 91, I used a Dave Brown mount 90FS-9004.
manufacture recomended a 5 ply for firewall. and I moved the firewall back 15/16". I ended up installing some of the front blocking on the bottom, out of step of the directions. was having trouble centering firewall. this made it easier for me. it should be dead center now.
I need to fasten gas tank, I am using 14 ounce DU-Bro manufacture says 12 or 14 ounce. not sure on how, I saw a thread that talk about fuel foaming, will use some foam around tank. and velcro. (any suggestions). need to run line for throttle, then I can close fuse[ up with sheeting. I I'm going to try to list pic's.











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I haven't been very busy on my Ryan, and there hasn't been any new post's, I have gotten the bug again, my fuse is close to being done except tail wheel area. need to assemble it. elevator, and stab and rudder rough out, need to install robart hinges. wings about 1/2 done.
it was neat to laminate the curve area's on the rudder and elevator, stab. need to install the wire on the elevator pieces.
will have to make one. kit short part. pick up piano wire. I was wondering about what to cover the Ryan with, Fuse, wings, tail area's.
mono type covering, silk, (glass? for the fuse). would like to do the red and white. lots of plastic parts to paint. ???.
any suggestions. Thanks Chris.


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Hi - my comments would be based on the other relevant subject : weight!!

Id cover the wing in film - nothing heavy. The Fuz would be nice glassed - but only if you can do it light - maybe also keeping your construction & gear as light as poss.

The wing area on this bird is not tremendous because of the narrow cord. I also fly with the os90 four stroke - although you have more oomph with yours being a surpass!

I need to weigh mine to give people an idea!!

Great plane - have another one to build - & promise to do better / lighter with that one!!

PS: keep the photos coming!

regards, starski

Starski, did you glass your Fuz, and what weight was the glass, and did you glass the plastic parts in. as I think that covering the tail area's with film then glassing plastic parts a problem.maybe best to glass and paint fuz then add painted plastic parts.
I do have some pic's but cannot get them to load, use image button, and added pic #. but didn't show up. I thought that there was something else to do. any advice, we are on dail up. PS I am running a Magnun XL .91. Power wise is that close to OS surpass.
Thanks for your help. Chris.

Hi, yes the Fuz is glassed -but so long ago I cant recall the weight, but i have a lot of scale detail & flying wires etc which all add to the weight - promise to weigh it all up!

plastic parts just painted. The rudder & where it joins the bottom Fuz has another plastic part - which does limit the rudder travel (-but this is scale anyway!) - the original rudder link used a straight ' bellcrank' - but this needs attention as it can become sloppy - plus the tailwheel steering can put additional stress on it...

All flying surfaces are filmed...

and the original OS 90 fourstoke is fine - but I will replace it for next season with the Saito 100 (weighs less & bonus of a lot more power over the original OS90 )

My spats & pants were just painted too - need to give the whole undercarriage an overhaul.... these did use a complicated fabricated piano wire set up!!! - after a few years - not quite as it used to be. need something with some 'spring' in it!

Will get round to all this soon I hope!!

regards & seasons greetings to all!

Hi folks,
nice planes you got there. Got one kit sitting in my workshop myself. Can anyone tell me where you got the fiberglass parts and to what price.
Thanks a lot

greetings from Germany

Roy

Hi, Fiberglass Specialist is the name of the company. they do have great stuff, do a search you should find it.
I haven't done much since last winter, my kit missing a couple pieces I need to make. post pics if you can. Chris.

The STA kit was designed by Maxey Hester. I have built several of them and they are great flying models. I think that the reason that they became unpopular was due to the proliferation of the ARF. You can actually get your hands on an ARF of this model, and while the construction (as with all ARF's) is suspect, it is easier for most people to have one that someone else built than to get deeply into a true builder's kit. Every one of these that I have built had a line of folks waiting to buy it before it was finished. As I said, they fly great, but as was posted earlier in this thread, be careful that you do not build in a loop antenna when doing the flying wires. I did not use the normal cloth and dope method of covering on any of the ones that I have build (due to the complexity of the color scheme) but used iron on flim and the model finished out within the reccomended weight range (on the high side). I did build in the flaps, and they appear to work well. Just remember to utilize a scale type of flap hinge. Speaking of hinges, set the model up for either a Robart hinge, or the DuBro epoxy hinge for the control surfaces. The supplied hinges are junk, and will become brittle over time. I think that you will really enjoy building and owning this one.

Bill, AMA 4720

Hi Chris,
I searched google and rc-universe, unfortunatley I have not been able to spot the company Fiberglass Specialist.
Anyody have a link for me?

Greets
Roy

www.fiberglassspecialtiesinc.com

That will bring you to the online catalog. Be aware, some parts that they offer are somewhat pricey. For instance the wheel pants for my fifth scale WACO are listed at $36.00 plus shipping. When you order, you find out that the price is for each piece. The set of two runs me $80.20 to get them to me. I don't know what your parts for the ST-A will run, but I just wanted to advise you of that pricing schedule.

Bill, AMA 4720