Good base for building
#1
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From: Lawrenceburg,
IN
I've decided to build a kit over the winter. I have a strong flat table to build a kit on, but need a base for the t-pins to hold the pieces while gluing the joints. Years ago (25+) we used a 2'x4' ceiling tile turned upside down, and some folks used 3/8-1/2" drywall. What are folks using these days?
DG
DG
#2

Hi!
Never use any pins! I have a door to build on but have it covered with a glass plate on top of it! All formers are spot glued with Ca glue onto the glass and when I want to remove everything I just take a woodworking chisel and pray away the glue.
Never use any pins! I have a door to build on but have it covered with a glass plate on top of it! All formers are spot glued with Ca glue onto the glass and when I want to remove everything I just take a woodworking chisel and pray away the glue.
#4
Senior Member
Ceiling tiles on top of a flat surface(glass, spare formica counter top, new door from local Lowes/HOme Depot) will work. JUs take a good three or four foot level and check your flat surface from many angles to insure it really is flat. Pins work fine. Go to Walmart, JoAnn's, etc. for good deals on boxes of different size pins. Put wax paper between your plans and your balsa. The wax paper makes removing the built part easier to remove. Your built part doesn't stick to your plans.
#6
ORIGINAL: jaka
Hi!
Never use any pins! I have door to build on but have it covered with a glass plate on top of it! All formers are spot glued with Ca glue onto the glass and when I want to remove everything I just take a woodworking chisel and pray away the glue.
Hi!
Never use any pins! I have door to build on but have it covered with a glass plate on top of it! All formers are spot glued with Ca glue onto the glass and when I want to remove everything I just take a woodworking chisel and pray away the glue.
My building surface consists of a sheet of dense particle board (about 1" thick) covered with a sheet of blue foam, which in turn is covered with a sheet of smooth corrugated plastic. It's not ideal what it's what's what was available.
I also can't imagine myself building on one of those magnetic building tables. I'd have to entirely rethink how I do almost every building task.
#7
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From: el centro, CA
I build on grass becuase I had a dinning table that was made out of glass.lol
It was the flatest surface i came across.
I had a work table which I though was flat....not.lol
Later I used a piece from an old stereo consel.
I simply tape the plans to the underside of the glass...No more wax paper or messing around with plans to makesure the plans are flat.,flat.lol
I simply just tac the end of the spars to the glass. Sometimes I might need to tac a little piece of wood for the center of the spar to keep it striaght. It acts like a pin. (butt it)
I simply tac those little tabs of the ribs to the glass.
I do the samething for some fuselage...simply tac the formers. Most model starts off with squaring the front and rear former of the wing.
I leave enough over hang...for the firewall's top. I tac the tail of the fuse to makesure it stays striaght.
Most GP model are build upside down with a flat top deck...then you add the fuslege's upper deck later.
Some models you don't even build the fuselage on the plans becuase of the inter lock parts. Such as the eagle II or 4*.
You simply use rubber bands to lock eveything into place.
I still makesure the sides are stright up and down by butting a square or triangle to check.
I use wieght as i would, if i was building on any other surface.
Easy clean up with a razor blade.
I also use glass for cutting my covering film. Easy on the blades. The blades easily glide on the glass without getting dull if i was to cut on wood.
If I want to do a flame job, i simply make a stencil out of newpaer or whatever.
Tape the film to the glass..then tape the stencil on top..then trace/cut....easy.
A steel ruler or yard stick (leveler type). This helps keeps everything nice and stright. The leverler won't bow.
Steel rulers or 90...so the blades can't cut into it.lol
It was the flatest surface i came across.
I had a work table which I though was flat....not.lol
Later I used a piece from an old stereo consel.
I simply tape the plans to the underside of the glass...No more wax paper or messing around with plans to makesure the plans are flat.,flat.lol
I simply just tac the end of the spars to the glass. Sometimes I might need to tac a little piece of wood for the center of the spar to keep it striaght. It acts like a pin. (butt it)
I simply tac those little tabs of the ribs to the glass.
I do the samething for some fuselage...simply tac the formers. Most model starts off with squaring the front and rear former of the wing.
I leave enough over hang...for the firewall's top. I tac the tail of the fuse to makesure it stays striaght.
Most GP model are build upside down with a flat top deck...then you add the fuslege's upper deck later.
Some models you don't even build the fuselage on the plans becuase of the inter lock parts. Such as the eagle II or 4*.
You simply use rubber bands to lock eveything into place.
I still makesure the sides are stright up and down by butting a square or triangle to check.
I use wieght as i would, if i was building on any other surface.
Easy clean up with a razor blade.
I also use glass for cutting my covering film. Easy on the blades. The blades easily glide on the glass without getting dull if i was to cut on wood.
If I want to do a flame job, i simply make a stencil out of newpaer or whatever.
Tape the film to the glass..then tape the stencil on top..then trace/cut....easy.
A steel ruler or yard stick (leveler type). This helps keeps everything nice and stright. The leverler won't bow.
Steel rulers or 90...so the blades can't cut into it.lol
#8
Senior Member
Plenty of tips, take your choice. One from me that is in my opinion the best, but don't know if it's still available. This is a product called an A-Justa- Jig. It's totally possible when using this to build a wing in it's entirety including all the sheeting,(except a small area on lower center section). With or without dihedral. It will be positively straight and true. The fuse can also be built on it if you obtain the added fuse kit. I used it though only for wings. While in this jig it can be rotated in any angle to enable working on top bot or where ever. As I said don't know if still on market I got mine 25 years ago. I think I will search and see if can find.
#9

My Feedback: (1)
I find ceiling tiles too soft. I use Homasote if I can find it. A paper product which accepts pins beautifully. If you cannot find it, try the brown outside/black inside board at home Depot or Lowe's. Not sure what it is used for but better than ceiling tiles.
Paul
Paul
#10
Years ago I used a homasote surface with wax paper and pins and it worked fine. I switched to glass since all the top R/Cers said it was the best. I have now switched back to homasote covered with wax paper because I ruined too many pieces trying to pry the wood away from the ca'd glass. Yes, I tried putting down wax paper over the glass, but then the problem was keeping it in place over the plans. Call me old fashioned, but pinning parts to homasote is just easier for me.
#11
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From: Tucson,
AZ
I switched to a metal table and use magnets, I'll never go back. Allows easy set up, I can use wood glue (no CA fumes), and you just can't get any straighter build. I built my own 1/4" plate table, but you can get by cheaply with a metal clad door, or even thin sheet on a good flat service. Getting all the magnets and pieces takes some time, but it's worth it over the long run.
Cruse this web site and you'll not be sorry for the time spent.
http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform...ders/index.htm
Here's a pick of my table.
Great planes sells magnet systems (or they did), you can easily make them (including clamps) yourself, or can buy them premade from airfield models at the link above. He tells you how to make your own, but he also sells them. I made most of my own. As you can see, I also make use of some old 12V batteries, they are heavy and very square.
I didn't believe it myself, but using magnets and white glue is just as fast as CA, and NO fumes. You also have a little time to adjust things if you need to.
Cruse this web site and you'll not be sorry for the time spent.
http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform...ders/index.htm
Here's a pick of my table.
Great planes sells magnet systems (or they did), you can easily make them (including clamps) yourself, or can buy them premade from airfield models at the link above. He tells you how to make your own, but he also sells them. I made most of my own. As you can see, I also make use of some old 12V batteries, they are heavy and very square.
I didn't believe it myself, but using magnets and white glue is just as fast as CA, and NO fumes. You also have a little time to adjust things if you need to.
#12
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From: Fairfax,
VA
I got the idea to build on glass from the Dave Platt tapes. CA to the glass or use weights to hold things down. I still use pins to hold pieces together. I also use a small balsa board if I need to pin pieces down. Glass is a wonderful surface to build on. Everything can be scrapped off.




