First time kit builder here. Always wanted to do build one after many years of watching my father building nitro kits as a kid. Its been a few years and can't remember all the supplies and tips I need to build one. If I remember correctly over the blueprints he would put waxpaper and glue the parts directly on the waxpaper with pins to hold in place. Is this the best way to go about? any other tips would be great. The kit is a Gary Wright E3D Plane. I'm pretty excited to build my first plane! Thanks

You start with your "building board." There are many variations on this but the key thing is that it's flat and large enough for the plane you're building. A large sheet of MDF or particle board or an old door covered with ceiling tile material works well. Next, as you say, you cover the plans with waxpaper. Many people make copies of the plans and use the copy to build because it inevitably gets cut up, torn, stained, etc.

After that, construction is largely modular. A lot of builders like to start with the stabilizer/elevator and fin/rudder because these are relatively easy. Others start right in on the wing(s). Personally, I like to start with the fuselage as this always seems to me like the heart and soul of any aircraft.

I don't know anything about the E3D but it helps if the kit comes with a good construction manual. If not, just ask lots of questions here on RCU!

Building is really not that hard and most non-scale models go together pretty quickly.

Here is what I do to start.

1 - check out the wood in the box. I take all the parts out, mark them with a Sharpie and package them up in zip lock bags based on the airplane part - Fuse, Wing, Rudder.... you get the point.

2 - Read the instruction manual and steps cover to cover, best to get to know what you are getting into.

3 - Build on a good flat surface, I use a door covered in dry wall. I pin the plans to the drywall and cover with plans with wax paper.

4 - When I build, I go step by step from the manual, but with out any glue, I test fit everything I can, pinned down to the board to make sure it all fits right, and to find any problems with the instructions, or my understanding of the instructions. I cannot tell you how many times I have glued things together only to realize that I made a mistake or used an incorrect piece of wood. Building with out the glue helps with this problem - at least for me.

5 - I like to use yellow wood glue rahter than the CAs for most applications. It has a longer working period, is cheaper and holds very well, it also cleans up and sands easier.

6 - I also like to build with my son and daughter, it takes longer, but they like it a lot.

Have fun, building can be very relaxing and rewarding when you see your plane take flight for the first of hundred and first time!

Having watched your father build is great news. You probably absorbed more than you know. I still use waxed paper when I build. I now have drawers and drawers of tools for building and repairing airplanes. But I didn't start out that way. The basics are an Xacto, some sort of saw, razor blades, sand paper or emery boards, pins, tape, glue, steel straight edge.



Read the instructions front to back a couple of times before you start building. Often there are corrections or conflctions in the instruction books. Its up to you to find them. Some kits have instructions on the plans also or even all the instructions on the plans. So compare the plans to the book and make certain that everything jives.

Sometimes it is a good idea to walk away from a project. Sometimes you need to think about something over night. You will be surprised how the answer comes to you when you just leave it alone for a while. So don't force it, just let it come to you.

Here is the best advice I can give you, and probably about the best advice anyone could give you!

www.airfieldmodels.com

Just let someone know that you're going to venture into Paul Johnsons' website. That way, if no one hears from you, in a few days they can send a search party in after you.

Second best advice I can give is, look at some of the kit build threads here on RCU and either build along with one, or start your own.

Welcome to building!!

Scott

I don't recall seeing a Gary Wright E3D kit build thread so you should do one. That way you will get a lot of help while you are building it, plus you may be helping others who will be building one someday.

There's a review of the ARF version here: [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=589]Gary Wright E3D ARF Review[/link]

Thanks guys Great input. I'll be sure to keep you updated and post some pictures along the way, and I'm sure I'll be asking more questions.

Wow, I must have Read the instructions 30 times just on the fuselage to make sense of it. Here is my first question of many during the building process. They say to remove 1/8" from the front of the right side of the fuselage to incorporate right thrust. I know on some planes you can get away with no right thrust. I plan on running a 13x6 propeller. Should I stick with the right thrust or could I get away without it?

Why go against the plans? Right thrust is built into planes for a reason - without it you may have to do a lot of trimming in flight.

Agreed. I build right thrust in to all my planes, whether the plans call for it or not.

Scott's pointed you to a goldmine of information over there at Paul's site - be warned, this is going to drain you (in a good way). Also, in case you havent' seen this [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3439708/tm.htm]thread[/link], this is RCKen's masterpiece LT-40 build with a ton of information in it too. Both links are highly recommended for first time builders.

-MA

Yea I'll stick to the plans.

RC Ken and I started a website specifically geared toward the beginner:

http://www.gettingairborne.com/

Hi Mike

Your website is down. For several days I try to access without results.

Unplug the power cable from your high speed modem/router, wait a few seconds, and plug it back in. This will hard reboot your modem/router, and will most likely cure your problem. Your settings will not be erased. You have a DNS issue, and this is the first step in troubleshooting it.

Thanks That has some great info.

Question: When you laminate do you clamp the pieces or doesnt it matter?

It depends on the situation. Usually, if clamps are needed at all, it will only be on the ends.

Hi All -

I'll chip in here as I've been building for about 30-years or so and agree pretty much with everything that's been said.

- as for the building board, personally I love the 2ft. x 4ft. ceiling tile stuff (I think somebody mentioned that already). It's cheap and great for pins. I put mine over top a sturdy utility table of abt. 6ft. x 3ft. I've also bought the magnetic Great Planes building board but am not too happy with it - probably cause I'm not used to it is all. Cover your plans with good wax paper for sure!
- when using the pins to stck the wood to the plans I strongly recommend using 2 pins to cross over the wood piece in an inverted "V" fashion as opposed to piercing the wood directly wherever possible. This avoids possible cracking and splintering plus provides truer alignment.
- I too prefer either Elmers Wood Glue or Tite Bond over CA. And here's a trick for you that works really well.....instead of using the glue straight from the bottle, I pour some into a 50 to 100cc syringe with a abt. a 10 guage needle (tip cut off). You can get these from a local pharmacy. This allows you to apply the glu with precision and not get glue drops every where. It will dry out and/or clog but you can put a wire brad in the tip to prevent that. These glues are much heavier than CA but they do hold better.
- follow the instructions and plans, don't skip around until you've developed your building skills. The majority of good kit manufacturers drafted their plans and instructions with a purpose and if you're not careful you can get into trouble by cutting corners or skipping around. There are some kit manufacturers out there that just make trash so be careful in picking out kits.
- Most kits include a hardware package, which in many cases is adequate for the job; however, alot of the stuff is cheap quality. I prefer to replace many hardward items with brand name goods that I trust. Especially control linkages and rods.
- the last piece of advice for the moment is for the engine compartment. That beastly nitro gets everywhere! I'm not sure about the kit you are building and how the engine compartment is built, but a lot of kits have you bolting the engine to the firewall and then it's surrounded by the balsa fuse sides and carved blocks. Mix a good portion of slow cure epoxy with 99% IPA until about a thin syrup consistency then use this mixture to thoroughly coat the entire inside of the engine compartment (use caution to plug any drilled holes or blind nuts before putting the epoxy mixture in. What this does is to seal the wood, strengthen it, and make it fuel proof. This also a very good technique to use when building a framed structure like many of the Sig trainer kits. For planes with the solid tail surfaces and solid balsa sides you can also use this method as an alternative to fiberglassing and film covering. Once dry the app;lied coating is very sandable and you can readily achieve a glass like finish if you sand using 600 grit wet sand paper. Then just good'ol Krylon spray paint and you're all set

Happy building!

Tom

Tom,
You might want to pick one or two of these up. Easeir to use than a syringe, and just as precise. Other end spreads the glue in 1/2 ribbon or so. I saw this, and thought it was the neatest tool since the exacto knife. I refill mine with titebond 1 when it gets empty.

Hi Randy -

Thanks for the tip! Been quite awhile since I've bought any glue so I'll be sure to look for that next time around

Cheers - Tom