How do you prepare a framed up model for covering? How to clean off the balsa dust? Should you paint it with Balsarite?

I use compressed air to blow off the balsa dust just prior to covering, then I wipe it down with a tack rag. You can also vacuum off the balsa dust. It is important to get all the dust off before covering and cover it in a dust free environment. Balsarite is not necessary with the plastic type coverings i.e. Moneycoat/Ultra coat but if it'll make you feel better use it around the front end, around the landing gear attachment points etc any where there will be a lot of oil from the exhaust.
What Balsarite does do real well is make it hard to remove the covering to do repairs.

I use the Balsarite made for film. It helps a great deal. It goes on like water and helps the plastic covering stick well. It also fuel proofs the wood. Balsarite comes in two formulas. one is thick and is used for covering that has not adhesive and the other is an adhesive promoter. I have found it helps to keep wrinkles down on sheeted area.

I quick coat with a foam brush over the airframe and two coats on the firewall and fuel tank area. Takes about 5 minutes to dry.

Dru.

You only need Balsarite if the covering material does not have an adhesive layer attached. It will be too sticky otherwise and will make it hard to get the film on smoothly. To fuelproof your tank compartment apply two heavy coats to seal the wood.

I used it when covering with Sig Koverall.  A fabric cover that requires a dope sealer.  There are other fabrics with the adhesive already on them and no balsarite is required then.  But a fabric covered model looks more like the real deal than a plastic film covered model.  That is, IMHO.

Stevenmax50: I'd be interested in how you used the Balsarite (fabric type?) with the Koverall. Did you use it to actually attach the Koverall to the model framework and iron the Koverall to it? Because of a real sensitivity to the use of aircraft type dope I'm seeking an alternative method of attaching the Koverall and then I can use the PolyC and water based paints.

Soft landings.

Joe

Joe, any of the coverings with TEX in them is also another choice for a fabric. Solartex is one of them. It irons on and is very easy to work with.
Another good trick for putting on plastic covering is just spraying the frame work with hair spray. There really is no reason for putting anything on the frame with iron on covering though if you remove the dust first.
I do the same thing as Mike mentioned, just spray with a compressor and wipe with a tack rag

Joe, You can use the PolyC to attatch the Koverall to the framework just as you would use dope. I use a product called ModPodge available at craft stores such as Michael's. I use the same product thinned with water to finish the Koverall and prepair it for paint. ModPodge works well as a balsa sealer to, just have to be careful because it is a water based material and can warp thin structures.

Thanks guys for the great ideas! I may be able to use the Koverall and waterbase paints afterall. What would you suggest as a good alternative to aircraft type dope as a fuel proofer over the water base paint (I use 15% Byron fuel)?

Soft landings.

Joe

Nelson's clearcoat with crosslinker will provide a great, fuel-proof top coat. Comes in flat & glossy finishes.

EG

Will the Nelson's clearcoat with crosslinker (don't know what that is) have the high odor like the aircraft model dopes. I've learned that strong odor equates to BIG headache and LOTS of Excedrin [&o]!

Soft landings.

Joe

Dsegal that is why they make (2) formulas. One is thick and is used for fabrics and covering that does nto have its own adhesive. They other is a promoter, enhancer, primer or what ever you want to call it. It is as thick as water. It seals the wood and really helps the covering to stick and not bubble.

For no adhesive coverings.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXB353&P=7

For adhesive backed coverings.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXB355&P=7


Dru.

Hey gang,

Can you use balsarite in between ultracoat layers, such as in a seem? If the covering is transparant, what does the finished product look like?

Thanks,

Kargo

Kargo: Having used Balsarite quite a bit I don't know why you couldn't use it as a splice adhesive. It would be a bit of trouble though to paint a small, say 1/4" - 1/2" swath along one mating edge and keep it neat. I'd be sure to try it on some scrape film covering first. Have not tried Balsarite under transparent coverings but would think if you got it on a bit too thick and the Balsarite "bubbled" a bit you'd be sure to see it under the covering. I have used transparents many times and you can see the wood grain under the covering (and everything else you forgot was there ) so, again, try it on a test piece first. Let us know how it comes out for you.

Soft landings.

Joe

Klass Kote makes the clear and the stuff is easy to work with and bullet proof. Pull up there web site. It's a two part epoxy and doesn't bother my nose at all, thins down very well too.

thanks Joe

You are very welcome, Kargo.

Thanks much Gray Beard, I'll check that out for sure.

Soft landings.

Joe

I have used the Balsarite under film (both Mono and Ultra) on two planes. I was useing some older covering and I wanted to ensure that it would stick. The Balsarite goes on quite thin and dries very quickly. It does seem to give the adhesive more "bite". I will probably use it in the future. As far as using it on top of the film for overlap, I haven't tried that, but I think I will experiment a bit.


One word of caution! Check the able, this stuff contains some NASTY stuff. You need PLENTY of ventilation with it. I took it out to the garage to do mine.

Thanks for the input guys! Describe a "Tack Cloth", what is the cloth impregnated with ?

A secret magnetic substance of some sort....it attracts any tacks you may have on your model prior to applying the coverings so those dang pointy thangs don't stick up through the coverings...or something like that...

Soft landings.

Joe