Amazing Job man, what about the fuse?

I've done the tail feathers, but rest of the fuse is tomorrow under my covering iron. I have my Saito FG-20 waiting, but no servos yet.
This is my first kit ever and i am learning all the time, as i'm building.


edit...errrr... what i've done with left elevator half ??? "#%#¤&% ! it shouldn't be black...nooooo!
first working 6 days in a week to get some pocket money and on that tiny time between sleeping and working, trying to build a flying model

Great scheme, should have no problems with orientation

Have you run the FG-20 yet? I was really tempted to get one as well but the teething problems with the ignition system made me wait a while. I would be very interested to know how it works as with the price of glow fuel in South Africa (Last one I bought 15% coolpower was $40 for 5l itres), it may pay to swap it out in the near future..

The zenoah is just a bit too heavy for this plane, but almost half the cost of the fg-20 - so many engines so little time.....

On my build I have been a bit slow the past couple of weeks but I did finish off the wing saddle last night so now all set to cover the fuselage.

Andrew,

Have you ever considered trying FAI. Granted I am not currently running any 4-strokes, but I run home made FAI fuel (80% methonal 20% castor) in .40's to .90 size engines and the loss of power is negligible. It can be bougt or made for about half the cost of 10%, between $7 and $8 a gallon here in the US.

I have 2 saito 4 st formationrokes and 2 magnum, 2 strokes all of which require some nitro to run well. I initially ran my first magnum on FAI but it struggled to maintain a stable idle, similarly my first saito I started off with 5% nitro but it definitely runs better on 15%.

In addition caster oil is not recommended for the saito four strokes due to carbon deposit and saito recommend full synthetic oil. I am sure there are many people who have run saito and other 4 strokes well without nitro - just that the manufacturers don't recommend it!

My two stokes I run a mix of castor and synthetic (9% each) am 10% Nitro.

What engine do you have for yours? Is it nearly finished yet?

I will put the Super Tigre 90 in my GP Extra. For now it is all still packed tightly in the box it came in. My current project (three "Tower Hobbies 40 size Uproars) is runnning longer than expected[]. Perhaps you have seen the thread. I no longer have any Idea when I will actuall start the Extra since the project list has been reshuffled once again. I have a couple that have been started and need finished before any new ones find the table.

Today, chitchat with friends and some oracover...

Still plodding along.

Fuel proofed the fuselage from the firewall back to the exposed sheeting and then from the rear of the firewall to the wing supports.

Also have the covering on the tail feathers and have attached the tailwheel and glued in the hinges and sealed the hinge gaps - such that they were!

Having difficulty with the covering the rest of the fuselage. I have added the "scale" side rails and therein lies the difficulty. As I have three different colours over the rail how do you edge join? I have tried to shrink the covering over the rail with an iron but this does not work very well and so use a heat gun - but to get a good shrink the colour to colour joint slips.

Considering taking of the rails but they do actually improve the look of the plane. Maybe change the colour scheme - already done the wing!!!.

Is there an easy(er) way to this?

Hey Andrew,
Nice scheme. Try putting a damp papet towel over the seem and use your heat gun. I like the looks with the fuse side rib too.
Good luck
Alan

Andrew,

Keep the side rail (stringers)! They will make a huge difference in the way it looks.

When I get there, I will also be adding the stringers. On a build like this I would cover the entire open framework of the fuse with white first. Bring the white covering all the way up the solid (sheet) material enough to incorporate the trim scheme and make sure I have at least a half inch of covering material overlapping the solid sheeting so it will adhere well enough not to pull off when shrinking the open framework. After the white is done then add the blue over the white and the red of coarse will over lap more in some places than others.

I hope that explanation makes since. I don’t have any pictures to show the process.

Good Luck, it is going to look sweet[8D]!

Hi Rick that is exactly what I have done - just didn't leave enough overlap. I will redo this evening and try a more conservative approach with the heat gun, also try the wet cloth on the seams although for the inner seams this is not really practical.

Hey Alan you been flying much lately? Have you been able to do a knife edge loop yet?

I notice that the Goldberg Extra thread has gone quiet. Do you think we have intimidated them? Brian are you listening?

Intimidated? You betchya'!

Actually, The thread has died. I was in the process of starting everything over, but priorities have overruled my hopes there.

It might be a while before I can proceed, but I will eventually.

These extras are looking very nice. I have enjoyed this thread.

Brian

Andrew,
Nope, No knife edge loop yet, however it does knofe edge quite well. I had a dead stick on the last flight. To fast spinning on a inverted flat spin. I came in hot, and pulled the LG out again. This time I broke the ply strip used to hold on the LG. I am going to cut a piece of wood to epoxy in from the top and hold them on with a 1/4 20 nylon bolt. Keep plugging along. You will be glad you did when you get it to the field.
Alan

bgfireman,

Did you build your's completely stock?

Brian

Here photo of the side wall of the fuz with the white added and shrunk to my satisfaction.

You can see how much the side rail enhances the appearance of the plane.

Thanks to all for their input.

Brian, Looking forward to your build thread, clock ticking.......

No, I added more counter balance to the rudder and also put counter balances on the elevator halves.
Alan

How "flat" is the inverted flat spin? My SSE just does not have enough elevator to stay flat so nose is down about 30 deg...with the elevator mod, I am hoping for a nice flat spin on this one!

Chemie.
It looks parallel with the ground, and I live in the flat lands of NC. It flattens out better than any other plane I have ever had. Including a showtime 90.
Alan

I really was excited about this plane to build but it is far beyond my skill level. I need 4-5 more kits before I come back to this. I was out of the building world too long and at my age I think that "Oldshiemer" is messing me up. Congrates to everyone on there build of this plane. Maybe next year.

Finished the rear turtledeck - took two hours. First drew the outline of the blue trim profile on tracing paper then cut out a right and left hand version from the roll of covering. Lined up with the bottom corner of the rear of the wing saddle and slooooowly stuck down using a trim iron on low heat, adding as little pressure as possible so as not to stick the covering to the fuz frame and loose the hard fought tent shape over the side rail.

Now for the red.....

Red added and cockpit interior done.

Starting to re-insert the radio and controls.

Next time I cover this I would cover the entire side and turtle deck in one piece as the seam at the turtledeck/fuz side is quite visable. Toyed with the idea of re-doing it now but itching to get the plane in the air.

Andrew,

I've been out of pocket for a while. Otherwise I would have commented before now. The Extra is looking good!

Hi Rick

Not much progress since the last photo, ordered the paint today for the cowl and wheel pants - 2K with MS primer should be able to collect it tomorrow. I have a NIB aztec airbrush to try out

Debating (again) whether to add a pump and position the tank over the cg - this would allow for a 16oz tank over the 14oz tank that will fit in the main compartment.

Need to still add the trim to the HS and instal the radio etc, etc.

Just re-read the original GP extra build thread (AdrianM's) and plan to beef up the landing gear mounts and use 1/4-20 nylon bolts instead of the self tappers.

Will keep you posted.

I had no problem fitting a 16oz without any changes into the stock location. Used this one: [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFU54]Tank[/link]

Hmmm, the only difference in size between the hayes slant tank and the du bro square tank is the length. Similarly the du Bro 14oz and 16oz tanks are only different in length. I will check again when I get home - maybe I can get a 16oz in.