There are always threads it seems on getting more interest in kit building, so if there's interest in a trainer build, I'm up for doing a build for the CG Eagle II kit. The span is 63" and it takes a .29 - .46. I have a nice reliable Super Tiger 40 ready to go. I received the kit (at my asking) when a friend is getting into electrics was given this kit which was found at a yard /garage sale for cheap! . I asked if he wanted it and my price was to let him try glow and see what it means to be a slimer! What a deal! I have built a number of kits over the years and plan on building this one basically per plan with a few modifcations.

1) I plan to rotate the engine 90 degress from vertical to vent the exhaust under the plane. I find this to be a good practice and done in conjuction with an exhaust diverter, the plane remains quite clean.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXL378&P=ML - approx. 3 bucks

2) I do not plan to use the single servo / torque rod setup for the ailerons and go with a servo in each wing. I personally find this method much easier to build and setup.

and 3)
Open for vote: The kit uses rubber bands to secure the wing. I can go this route or if it's possible per the design, see about using two 1/4 x 20 bolts in the rear of the wing and a dowel up front. I prefer the bolts, dowel method as it's faster ass'y at the field but we'll have to see if the design allows for this. Since this is a beginner build and I'm already making two other changes from the plan, I'm fine with using the rubber bands as well. I'm hoping to work on it 3 days per week.

The CG eagle II is not your standard mainstream beginner plane but it's a kit build none-the-less. Looks like a nice clean design and I like the actual plastic windows and open area in the cabin which will house the included plastic (clamshell) pilot! So let me know if there's interest otherwise I'll just build in solitary in my man cave

It's always good to see a kit go together. The Eagle II is a really nice looking trainer. My friend has the ARF and it has plenty of power with a .40LA. The ST will be great on it.

I think your mods are both good ideas. I agree that the bolt on wing is a good idea, if it's not too difficult. I know that the cockpit area of the Eagle II is a little different than most trainers, so the structure may make it more difficult to add the bolts.

Good luck

The aileron mod is totally up to you. Personally, I don't think it's any easier that the kitted torque rods.

However, I would nix the bolt-on wing. The Eagle has an open cabin design with plastic windows. While it looks nice, it makes for a weaker wing seat that solid wood. With a bolt-on wing, the slightest mistake will result in a major rebuild of the cabin area.

I would love to see a build thread. I would follow it and enjoy it tremendously.

I also prefer dual aileron servos. But I would agree that it is not a good idea to build a bolt on wing, cabin area is much too weak. Instead of the wing bolts breaking off the whole cabin area would snap off. If you eliminate the plastic side windows and windshield and built them out of balsa then bolt-on wings would be more possible.

ok... As I was looking a the plan.. the leading edge sort of just sit atop the cabin as in there really is no place to put the leading edge dowel. I suppose I could go with bolts front and back once the sides are sheeted, etc. etc..

But I digress.. being this is a beginner kit build, I'll just go with the rubber. Minn.. I have always had trouble with the torgue rods... not sure why.... they come out ok.. I just have trouble getting them to come out ok.
So i'll start clearing off the bench and we'll see how it goes.

Hi there: I have the eariler version of the Eagele 2. Mine is the mod 63. I would consider junking the control rods and go with the Nyrod control system. My ailerons are operated by the one servo, and has not given me any problems other than when the model does a wing tip roll during a bad landing. Then the rods get bent some. Be sure to the dihedral brace is made out of 5 ply plywood and not lite ply. Have really enjoyed my Eagle since 1995. Had several bad crashes with complete fuse repair from the rear dowel pin aft. This truely is a fine flying model. Thanks for doing this building thread.

[email protected]

Did you happen to flip through the manual i could have sworn that they list the steps to add the optional Bolt on wing.

I just built one of these last year or so and i really think its in there.

Yes there is a bolt-on wing option in the manual but I still would not recommend it with such a weak-framed cabin. If you want a bolt-on wing all you need to do is build the windshield from balsa and fill in the side window openings with balsa to make the cabin solid.

I have an Eagle II that I built back when it was the trainer that everyone reccomended. I converted it to bolt on wing a couple years ago. The changes are in the back of the manual (pg 32), it is much easier to do during the build than later. I did block in the windshield when I built the plane originally. I left the openings in the sides but covered the windows up as well. I haven't noticed any strength issues with the cabin. I agree that a side-mount would look good and run cleaner, but side-mounting the engine on that plane would be a bit of a challenge, the engine is mounted to a plate on two hardwood rails, not a standard mount. To use a mount, I would think that the firewall would need to be reinforced. Also, the right thrust and down thrust are built into the engine plate and the rails, the firewall is square, so the angles would have to be built into the mount. Two other mods that I did to mine were to sheet the tail surfaces with 1/32" balsa to keep it more rigid and to build up the wing tips with balsa instead of the plastic tips that come in the kit.
I have some pics of the plane both finished and in progress, but I can't locate them right now.

Thanks crossman..
I haven't looked through the manual yet so wasn't aware of the engine mounting process in use in this kit. I'll have to figure that out as I prefer the muffler underneath. I'll take a look at the bolt on wing addendums as well and see what it says. I like sheeting the tail with 1/32 as well. I was wondering about the plastic wingtips as well. Don't think they would hold up after a few dings. I was considering hollowing out some balsa blocks.
We'll see... . I plan on cleaning off the bench tonight and taking some pics of what's in the box and start laying out the wing.

There was someone here that did a lot of mods on one of these, the last I heard of it he was at 11#! Do not know if it ever flew.

Here are some pics of how I did the wingtips. I'll try to find the ones of the finished plane.

The angled end piece is 1/4", the top sheeting is 1/32, it lays on top of the last 2 ribs. There are a couple of braces inside the tip.

i love the eagle i would defenently go with the bolt on wings. heres some pics of one of my eagles. i have a build going on check it out under eagle 2 mods

Mr. E - I like the bush plane effect with the struts and those huge wheels..
Crossman..- nice job on the wing tips.. I was going with solid balsa hollowed out but built up would be a lot easier as you have done. I checked out the eagle mods thread.. lots of changes.. i didnt relaize it wasnt sheeted.. I will probably do the same from the LE to the spar.

My 1/4 x/14 bass for the main spars each had a slight bow so I'm in the process of correcting that with some clamps and a lil water. I'll get going in earnest tonight on the wings nd post pics. Homecoming football game tonight and need to chaperone my daughter and her friends at the football game so I'll be posting later on. I can't wait to start building! Love it as much as flying.

The manual in this kit is very comprehensive. It covers everything from selecting radio equipment, field equipment, how to read the plan, a primer on adhesives and gluing techniques, pinning
techniques and trimming and flying complete with diagrams. Simple jigs are included (to be built by the modeler with included parts) for getting the V shapes in elevators, and ailerons. There are even clamps die cut in the scrap ply if you wish to use them. The manual has comprehensive pictures with each step. It's 60 pages for a basic trainer build! They don't make manuals like this anymore. []

I thought I would start with the wing because I usually never do as I don't like building them.
The wing allows for 3 versions. A 3 channel (non-aileron) large dihedral version, a 4 channel less dihedral version and another 4 channel almost no dihedral version for "increased stunting ability". Each has its own corresponding dihedral gauge. I am building the last version as I hipe this will be a nice fun fly plane.

The Trailing edge is notched balsa to accept the rib, there are two spars of 1/4 x /1/4 bass and the leading edge is hardwood dowel with the fronts of the ribs scalloped to accept the dowel. It's very straightforward construction and the instructions are very clear on how to proceed. Something I learned long ago was to verify the sheer webs (balsa rectangles between the ribs that attach to spar) were square and of proper size per plan. I use these to verify the rib is perpendicular to my board and to assist in rib spacing by checking rib locations against the plan. I found if you assemble all the ribs and then install the shear webs you end up having to modify every web to make it fit since ribs will not be perpendicualr or spaced exactly. Saves a lot of time.

The plans show a double rib on the wing tip to prevent it from bowing inward when you apply covering. I chose to go with a single rib as I plan to use balsa tip blocks instead of the more flimsy plastic wing tips which would have required the double end rib.

I build with yellow wood glue and expoxy. Something new I tried was a tip I saw on one of the boards and that is to use syringes to apply the yellow wood glue and it worked great. I just use those that we get from the drugstore to give liquid medicines when the kids get sick. Makes it easy to control and apply nice clean fillets. You can buy better ones with all kinds of applicator tips online.

I sanded all ther ribs, shear webs, and laid the wing out. It was then I realized I didn't have any pins! [:@]. So I'll pick some up tomorrow.

Pics show progress so far. I'll try not to be so wordy going forward!

With pins in hand I began assembling the wing. The wing tip has a gusset front and back on the last rib. The instructions did not mention but I recessed the front to better conform to the leading edge dowel. Just wrap a piece of finer grit paper around the dowel and run the balsa gusset back and forth a couple times for a good fit. At the root edge, the balsa placed under the first two ribs keeps them level as they are smaller in width along the entire ribto accept the center sheeting top and bottom. There are two lite ply pieces that fit between the third rib and the trailing edge. not sure what these are for but I have not been able to find them in the kit. The third rib is short by the width of the ply so i just made one. When dry I'll add the top spar. I could do that now but the fits are tight wihch is nice and I don't want to disturb the alignments. In cases like this one could go on to other part.. tail, etc while your waiting. I just realized I forgot to make holes in the ribs to run the servo wire. I'll cut them next and in the next set of ribs before I forget[].

The pics show wingtip stock running a bit long. I like to sand back to the plan line to get everything nice perpendicular at the wing tips when it's ready. The wingtip pic shows the end rib short of the plan line b/c I only used one. It also shows not being lined correclty with a slight bow in the middle which I corrected. I'm still not sure why the pics are posting large so I'm re-sizing them in MS Paint.

Looks like it is coming along well Mike. Your students are watching.

To upload smaller photos.
On your computer desktop or wherever you store your photos . . .
1) With your mouse pointer over the photo thumbnail right click on your mouse for the menu to open.
2) When the menu opens scroll down to 'open with', another menu will open
3) When the second menu opens scroll over to and click on 'paint'
4) At the top tool bar click on 'image'
5) Scroll down to and click on 'resize/skew'
6) Underneath 'resize' at both horizontal and vertical type into the small boxes an equal percentage to shrink the photo to. Usually around 60-70% each box is good.
7) Click 'ok' and you will see the photo shrink.
8) Close out of paint and when asked click 'save'

Now the photos won't be as big when you load them into RCU

By the way, very nice build so far. I will be following this thread whole-heartedly to its end.

shd3920..... That is what I have been doing. In RCGroups, I usually just post a photo, it attaches small and when clicked on enalrges. Here the photo posts the size of the mspaint modified size meaning it does not post small, then grow when clicked on as in the photos attached by Mr. E up the thread. I guess this is ok but it's a hassle having to scrowl right to read the txt of hte post.. on my laptop anyway. I assume that is happening to everyone.

Mr. E are you doing anyting different?

I was looking for another thread and found one where i posted a pic and it workd fine. I don't belive I' am doing anything different now.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_85...tm.htm#8579957

Today I added the top spar and bottom center section sheeting to the left wing panel. The painters tape is stop any glue from leaking out of the joint keeping the fillet in place. I also began making up a wingtip from balsa shee and aileron stock. The angle at the bottom is to mate with the bottom of the rib while keeping the upward angle. The balsa sheet with the scores running across was needed to allow the the sheet to form more easily ove the curve. The scores will be on the bottom side and not seen. I am planning to put some bulkhead type braces inside.. I will post pics of this as it gets made. The wing is angled on the leading and trailing edges to allow the glue to set up against the spar and leading or trailing edge where the sheeting mates up. I also put the vertical stab together and did some rough shaping on it. The front and top need some rounding over.

The pic issue was somone has put the camera on 5mp instead of 1.1. So pics are positng correclty again.

Mike, that picture thing is a bug that only happens occasionally. You did nothing wrong, it's just a "Phase of the moon" sort of thing.

Just right-click on each image and do a "Save as". When the save box appears, change the name slightly (Like: add an "A" to the beginning of the first name, a "B" to the second etc.)

Once you have saved them, edit the post and delete all of the images (The delete button below the text box). Then, click "Attach more images" and reload the renamed images.

That usually works.

Mike,

As far as bracing I put small blocks at the LE and TE (about an inch or so wide) and a 1/4" brace at the spar. I guess I should have taken a pic before I covered it all up.

I am enjoying this build. The Eagle 2 was my first RC build.

Got some more done tonight. Created the built up wing tip though since i usually shape balsa block or shape from laminated pieces I'm not sure how it will come out until I remove the wing from the board. I placed a thin doubler just below the rib outline the spacing equal to the thickness of the sheet balsa. I added a couple cross pieces for support as well. I finish shanded the vertical stab rounding over the leading and top edges and also started the horizontal stab. The three center pieces and tips were die cut for me.

Mr E. - Form the pics it looks you sheeted your leading edge. Is that correct? I have a feeling the wing will be a bit twisty w/out some thin sheeting up front.
Crossman - It looks like you did not... did you notice a tendency to twist?