The gear takes a lot of soldering, but isn't too bad.

As you may have guessed, I have a few pics if you need them.

glad for your help ! maybe a pic of the aileron mod you made and the tail gear assembled ready for flying.

ouch! I was assembling the elevator to the stab and see that the post on the fin is cut alot so the elevator joiner moves freely.it would seem that weakens that entire fin? did you follow sig on that.it just seems like alot of wood removed.I was planning to use robart hinge points for allareas including the ailerons..also do you cover and paint the rudder and tail befpre final install?

I built the fin post per plans. After notching it out for the joiner, 1/32 ply was laminated to the outside of the rudder post for a little added strength. The tail bracing wires will also help to keep things rigid.

I, too, used Robart hinges. Large on the ailerons, and smaller ones on the tail surfaces.

I've flown one with a Saito 1.50. Vast amount of power, really. It will poddle around at very low throttle settings.

For everyday flying, a 1.20 would be fine. Of course, if you want to fly "aggressively", you'll need the bigger engine.

hi bob.yeah I think the 1.50 is my best choice for the style of flying.believe me I am not aggressive but at the same time I like having the extra horses under the hood.

thanks tom .I am going to bit the bullet and get solartex covering.I do have a compressor but would need a sray gun.then find a place where I wont stink up the house and its cold here too so it will be easier just to iron on the covering and paint trim work over it .I sort of knew that beforehand but was kidding myself thinking I wouls enjoy all that mess.NO WAY! lol. I am going to reinforce the post as well.I dont think that was the best way to design that particular area but I can make the modification to suit my concerns.thanks for the detail on the rudder .the saying is true'a picture is worth a thousand words"..

With my 1.60, I fly mostly at 1/2-1/3 throttle. When I want the power, I add it. The SW does just fine, putting around at the lowerr throttle settings.

Even though I used Solartex, I painted the whole model. I used the white for opacity, then sprayed the red base color.

When using Solartex, try spraying the airframe with Aqua Net hair spray, first. It acts like BalsaRite, in that it aids in adhering the covering to the airframe.

I used two spray guns, an HVLP, and a gravity fed touch up gun.

I bought the touch up gun at Lowe's, for around $40.00. I know several people using this gun for painting an entire model.

For paint, I used Nelson Hobby Specialties paint. It's water soluable, and can be brushed on, if desired. There is a noticable odor when spraying, but it quickly disapates.

I have heard others refer to nelsons paint so I will look .I was also going to look at other non tradtional paints.I like the water soluable paints.I used an acrylic water paint on my micro funjet. when I covered my dynaflite SE5A I used monokote and it was shinny but a moddeller in the club who often is a static judge at top gun told me to buy minwax water based polyurathane and spray the finish.when it was done it has a matte look and dulled the covering.


lol.I have a can of auqua hairsray in my shop and have been using it for a number of years ..

maybe I'll go to lowes and spec out a spray gun.or go to harbor freight and see what they haveas there is a store in my area.
I bought my wife a craftsman compressor for her brad nailer and it comes with fitting for a spray gun and I have a small badger touch up gun.I guess what I am doing is learning about spraying paint.never too old to learn these things.

I had one other thought tom about the elevator joiner ...maybe a dowel could be substituted as a joiner making the opening for freely moving smaller.

I think that you will like the Lowes touch up gun better that the one from Harbor Freight.

A friend had the one from HF, and didn't care for it. He then went to Lowes and made himself happy. He then suggested it to me,and I liked it too.

If you have a Badger gun, though, why not use it ? That is, if it's not an air brush.

hummmmmmm.I do have a gift certificate for lowes with some money left on it guess where I am heading to.lolI am sold incidentally on nelsons paint.I havent got any paint to speak of so I will get some .

Lowes, Ace Harware, and Home Depot, are good hobby shops.

I just picked up some supplies at HD, to finish my Rotary Drive System for my Cessna's rudder. LOL

Got my SWII out this morning finally. I was thinking of going gas. I don't see anyone using one. Would like to hear from someone who has and any advise.

I bet you could easily install a 26 cc .I ended up with a satio 150 and its plenty..

I would think a gasser would fit under the hood. My preference would be a G-26.

It's kinda funny. Looking back on this thread, I had just completed my Spacewalker II. Right now, I'm building the 1/3 scale Sig Spacewalker. The kit is every bit as good as the smaller SW II.

Tom and Cloudancer sure am glad to see your reply. I have had my SWII for several years got it out the other day. The old feeling of building is coming back because of this kit. I have read all your stuff and it sure looks good. I want to cover in Solortex and paint, will have some questions later. Ordered a DLE30 hope it works ok. Thanks in advance for any help. Do you still have your II. Keep us posted on the 1/3 one.

My third scale is now fully covered. I'm working on the radio and motor installations.

Soon, I'll have to set her aside, and wait for warmer weather to do the paint.

Hi Tom, I know this thread is an old one but I thought you may still be watching it. I'm about to start a re-covering of a Spacewalker II that I got in a trade. It was covered in monokote and looked awfull. I have decided to cover it in fabric as it should be. I'm wondering if you have any advice on engine instalation. I recently picked up an OS Gemini 160 for the plane, my last part needed, and wanted to know if you had any problems that you ran into.

I believe that my Magnum is similar to your OS twin. I purchased "stand offs" at Ace Harware. Other than properly spacing the engine from the firewall, I encountered no problems.

Even with the twin up front, I had to place my RX battery in the fuel tank compartment. I got by without adding nose weight, though.