Well guys finally got my ups confirmation code. I was hoping to get it this weekend but looks like i'll have it next monday.

Pull up the build threads for your kit here on RCU, some very good ones have been posted. CA comes in three different types, the thin is very fast cure and the thick is pretty slow. Over time you will learn what types of glues you as a builder like, I have several types sitting on my bench. My old building board was made from two 6 foot long 12 inch wide boards I glued together then planed flat. I have cross reinforcements on the bottom to keep it straight and level as time marches on. I get my clamps from Harbor freight, the Dollar Stores and any place I spot them, even super markets. Tee Pins I get at the local fabric store or hobby shop. Good luck on the build, you picked a good kit and a nice plane.

Lot's of good advice in this thread. Only thing I would add is one of these!

Great Planes Dead Center Hole Locator




You could get by without it, but it sure is handy for mounting Engines, Servo's.......and anything else!

Hi everyone, I was looking at the diffrent types of titebond (II,III,others) and was wondering about their set times. If you go to the website and read the product info, they all have about the same set and dry time. Is this right? I think im going to use the titebond trim and mould on the build instead of CA. I rather take my time and not rush anything and I would feel more comfortable with slower curing. Sorry that i'm rabling but I am so worried about having to unglue somehing because I did not get it lined up correctly first. So I rather take my time lining things up correctly. Thanks for the other tips guys. I'm going to try to make some kind of build log so you guys will be in the middle helping me along with the build.

ONe more thing, I heard of people tack gluing. I understand the concept but how do you do it?

Yes I use this perfusely for so many things! including control horns and anything requiring a #2 screw, including button head screws for canopies... and so much more!

Patience is a virtue.  And it sounds like you have the patience to do it right.  I dont.  I have made a few mistakes by blazing ahead.  I wish I had more patience, but oh well. 
I understand you are a long way from considering covering.  It just happens to be the stage I am at in my build.  The truth is you may have seen a fabric covered plane and didnt know it.  You can make the fabric show, as in the case of WWI warbirds were it is to scale.  Or you can make the finish a high gloss where the fabric doesnt show.  I prefer it to the plastic films.  And when you do settle on a scheme keep in mind how easy it will be to see from the ground.  Some colors do not show up well at all.  I cannot say for certain, but I think black may be one of those colors. 

I think the numbers after the word Titebond is marketing. I used Original Titebond, then it was Titebond II (new and improved!)... is it up to III now? Just buy the bottle of "yellow glue" and go for it. You could even go to Home Depot and pick up aliphatic glue and it's the same stuff without the brand name. Elmer's sells aliphatic, too!

I tack glue like this. Put the aliphatic glue bead on the piece of wood then leave a small gap in the bead for CA glue. Put the pieces together and drip a little CA where the gap is. If you have a gap where the two join, thin CA won't work so make sure the pieces are tight. If you have any voids between the two pieces of wood, use thick or medium CA. I do this when I don't want to use pins.

If you mean tack gluing to temporarily hold two pieces together for sanding, just put small drops of medium CA on the outside edge of one surface and press the two together. Let it cure, then sand. When done sanding, use an exacto blade to carefully slide in between the pieces and break the CA loose and take the two pieces apart. How far in on the edge to place the glue dots depends on how much balsa you plan to remove. If a lot, it makes no sense to have the dots near the edge as you'll sand the tack away and the piece will fall apart in your hands. So, just think it through first.

Don

Well, gee, I feel stupid.

Titebond is the "original" aliphatic glue
Titebond II is waterproof aliphatic glue
Titebond III is ultimate waterproof aliphatic glue

I have been using II for so long, didn't even know there was a III.

Either will be good for you. II or III III just costs more

Don

I've only built three kits. Here are a few thoughts.

If your kit has not arrived, get a head start by downloading the manual from
http://www.greatplanes.com/parts/index.html#kits

In addition to the manual for your Extra, download the one for the PT-40. If any steps or descriptions in the Extra manual are unclear, find something similar in the trainer manual and it will probably have a better description.

The pictures in the manuals do not always show pins or clamps but the text refers to them where they are needed.

I looked at the Extra manual and it looks like it could be built with wood glue or CA pretty easily.

If you use thin CA you get the parts positioned and pinned as perfectly as you can and then apply the glue. There is no time to adjust anything.

Medium CA is applied before the parts are joined but you do have to be fairly fast.

Wood glue is applied before the parts are joined and you have a few minutes to get things lined up.

I use thin CA, wood glue, and 30 minute epoxy.

The Extra calls for epoxy in several places. They mention 6 minute and 30 minute. I can't use 6 minute. It sets so fast I can't use it so all epoxying I do is with 30 minute.

Plain old fashion Elmers Carpenter glue works pretty good.

glue: Tite bond 2
building board: scrap piece of counter top with a ceiling tile on top.
did anyone mention wax paper to protect the plans?

If you fly at a club with other members you can normally borrow the tools to cover with..might even find someone who is good at it to help you with it at first. No need to go out and buy all the covering stuff for your first plane.

well I was able to pick up a used ceiling tile for free at lowes today. Thanks for the tips, package should be in tomorrow

I use a slab of drywall instead of a ceiling tile. The pins hold MUCH stronger in drywall and fairly easy to push in.

Hey guys, have another question for you guys before I start. I know i'm overanalyzing this but I am getting ready to start the build and I have been going over the plans. I bought the triangle set from tower and the measurements only go up to 6in. Well some of the early measurements require measuring past 6in. SO should I buy a bigger ruler or maybe measure in halves. What I mean by that if that if it is 7 in then measure 3.5in make a mark and move triangle and measure another 3.5in. I just really want to get the measurements spot on.
How do you guys do it?Is the last method accurate enough?

I use two metal rulers, one 12 inch and one 36 inch. You will want the 12in one now and the longer one when you are cutting the covering. Get the metal ones, you can use them to guide an X-axcto blade.

As far as building surfaces, I also use the Hollow core door and the 1/2inch drywall. It is a little harder to puch pins into the D/W than a ceiling tile, but they stay where you put them. The door is even cheaper if you snatch it from the neighbor's trash,(I still haven't figured out why they threw it out). I also have several pieces of aluminum angle (about 1 in long) that I use to hold pieces upright.

Thanks for the metal ruler idea. O.k I just started the elevator so here are some pics. I would like some constructive criticism please.
Remember I have zero wood working experience.

So far the hardest part has been trying to sand the ends perfectly flat, any tips?

Try this sanding block, makes repeated angles precise and perfectly flat.

[link]http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXG876&P=7[/link]

Thanks andrew,
I have another queston about this next part of the instructions:

7. Remove the stab from your building board. Inspect all
the glue joints and add CA to any joints that don't look
strong. Cut the ends of the leading and trailing edges so
they extend past the end of the stab by about 1/16". Use
your bar sander to finish the job by sanding the ends of the
LE's and TE so they are flush with the end of the stab. Cut
the 1/8" x 1/4" tips, then glue them to the end of the stab.

The last sentence talks about the 1/8" x 1/4" tips..... what are those???

The tips are just strips of balsa glued to the ends of the stab to increase strength at the outside edge. Also used on the wing tips and vertical stab. Makes for a nice neat finish to the construction.

The wingtip pieces that are mentioned are shown on the plan at each end of the stab and the elevators. They are simply caps to cover up the end grain of the leading and trailing edges.

I was going to suggest that you use the pins beside the wood rather than through it, but I looked closely at the pics and I see that you are doing that already. It helps you avoid splitting the thinner pieces.

So far it's looking good, just continue to be patient and work carefully and the plane will turn out great. And don't hesitate to bring the questions here. This a great site for info.

OK I worked on creating the hinges on both the rudder and elevator...not an easy job thats for sure. I also beveled the edges too...

Nest step is to create the rudder balance tab and join the elevator halves

Here's a link to my thread on the extra .40 build, some good info on building her.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_86..._1/key_/tm.htm

Lot's of pages, but it will turn out just fine, nothing to fear while building it, it's a fairly easy building plane, a few more steps than a 4* but easy and great flying plane.

Considering this is your first kit, i think your doing superbly, your asking all the right questions anyway. Keep up the good work.

                                Cheers
                                       john

Well I ran into my first big issue in building this kit and wonder if I can get some ideas. I was trying to install the elevator joiner wire and ran into two problems. First, I used my drill to drill a pilot hole (3/32) followed by the regular hole w/ a 1/8 tip. I was unable to drill thru the center and ended up drilling a hole that angled and actually came out thru the bottom of the balsa. Secondly, I must of measured incorrectly, but the other hole was a little too short so that the elevators when joined were a little short.
How do I fix this?? I have a couple of thoughts, remove the angled blockby cutting where it attaches to the TE and part of the LE because the hole goes thru it. Rebuild the block and LE, how will this affect strength? I would have to glue a piece of LE balsa to the remainder of the LE?
Another thought is to somehow make a shallow groove on the upper/lower side of the balsa exposing the canal and then correct it and then create a flap of balsa to glue on to it... It that makes any sense.
Or just rebuild the elevator halves again but this still does not solve the problem on how to drill a centered hole with just a drill... any suggestions?