Phaeton 90 Build Thread
#51

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After debating on adding ailerons to the upper wing, I decided to go with it. I followed the information from Jeff Canfield who wrote to Balsa USA in regards to modifying the upper wing http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_66..._3/key_/tm.htm
I purchased some balsa sticks and .5" x 1.5" x 36" ailerons. I was going to use 2" ailerons but it would not match to the lower ailerons.
I don't want to throw any dirt on the company, but I don't understand why they didn't modify the kit, which would make the Phaeton 90 a better flier after they agreed with Mr. Canfields letter. While building this kit, I did find flaws to the kit which includes in the instructions, cutouts, and wood pieces that were too short. I had to purchase an extra birch stick because the birch stick in the kit for one of the spars were short by 6 inches.
The picture of the rib is how I got it in the kit. Apparently, the balsa piece was not set right when the rib was stamped.
I purchased some balsa sticks and .5" x 1.5" x 36" ailerons. I was going to use 2" ailerons but it would not match to the lower ailerons.
I don't want to throw any dirt on the company, but I don't understand why they didn't modify the kit, which would make the Phaeton 90 a better flier after they agreed with Mr. Canfields letter. While building this kit, I did find flaws to the kit which includes in the instructions, cutouts, and wood pieces that were too short. I had to purchase an extra birch stick because the birch stick in the kit for one of the spars were short by 6 inches.
The picture of the rib is how I got it in the kit. Apparently, the balsa piece was not set right when the rib was stamped.
#52

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From: Athol,
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Almost done on the Fus., have mounted the G-23 and will work on the servo mounts, tank mounts, etc before sheeting the bottom. I plan on placing the rudder/elevator servos in the rear under the horizontal stab. will help balance to the point where I think a 5 pack of sub-C receiver batterys will balance the plane, or very close. This is my first kit in the past 5 years and I am starting to get back into the grove. I plan on top wing ailerons as it seems to be the best way to go at this stage. Replaced the wire gear with some nice conventional gear that is much stronger overall.
THINK SPRING



THINK SPRING




#53

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From: Jacksonville,
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I have always had GREAT response from BUSA thru the years... They have always been VERY willing to replace any defective or wrong-size parts (and there have been very few). I can't imagine they would not have done the same for you, had you asked... When you punch/cut/pick/box that many parts, you are bound to have an OOPS once in a while...
As for re-design - sounds simple but not really so. Changes to tooling are EXPENSIVE. Then, consider the impact to parts availability for older version(s). How many are already cut and boxed, waiting for sale? Not really practical. Re-designs more typically become a completely new model, new name, etc. TOUGH to do these days w/ all the price pressure from balsa shortages, higher shipping costs, packaging cost, labor, less folks wanting kits (vs bARFs), etc. I am just happy that BUSA is hanging on! I have always liked thier kits...
As for re-design - sounds simple but not really so. Changes to tooling are EXPENSIVE. Then, consider the impact to parts availability for older version(s). How many are already cut and boxed, waiting for sale? Not really practical. Re-designs more typically become a completely new model, new name, etc. TOUGH to do these days w/ all the price pressure from balsa shortages, higher shipping costs, packaging cost, labor, less folks wanting kits (vs bARFs), etc. I am just happy that BUSA is hanging on! I have always liked thier kits...
#54

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From: Schaumburg,
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I have not bothered Balsa USA on replacing any parts because If I had to do that, then I would have called them on five separate occasions during the processes of the build. I would have lost my patience having to wait for that one part, every time. And as for the tooling for redesigning, a company like Balsa USA should invest in a laser (Co2) to cut the balsa, then they don't have to worry about putting any money into tooling. There are too many companies that have gone out of business because they don't change. Any business that wants to succeed needs to look ahead.
#55
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From: Woodville, WI
ORIGINAL: hkusp45
And as for the tooling for redesigning, a company like Balsa USA should invest in a laser (Co2) to cut the balsa, then they don't have to worry about putting any money into tooling. There are too many companies that have gone out of business because they don't change. Any business that wants to succeed needs to look ahead.
And as for the tooling for redesigning, a company like Balsa USA should invest in a laser (Co2) to cut the balsa, then they don't have to worry about putting any money into tooling. There are too many companies that have gone out of business because they don't change. Any business that wants to succeed needs to look ahead.
I don't know if Balsa USA has a laser or not, but the tooling is probably bought and paid for. Might as well keep using it until they can't.
If they do have a laser, then any new kits they engineer/introduce should be laser-cut.
I hope to visit their place in a few weeks. They promised me the $0.05 tour. 'Course I also hope to come home with a Dr. 1 kit.

#56

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From: Athol,
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It would be nice if they would update the top wing just as Sig should have made ailerons available on the Senior Kadet kit to keep up with the times........Both the P-90 and Kadet are classics that could be improved with just minor changes.
#57
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From: Woodville, WI
ORIGINAL: Gizmo-RCU
It would be nice if they would update the top wing just as Sig should have made ailerons available on the Senior Kadet kit to keep up with the times........Both the P-90 and Kadet are classics that could be improved with just minor changes.
It would be nice if they would update the top wing just as Sig should have made ailerons available on the Senior Kadet kit to keep up with the times........Both the P-90 and Kadet are classics that could be improved with just minor changes.
An addendum, to the instructions and drawings wouldn't be a big deal for the "expert builders" who choose to add ailerons to the upper wing.
But retooling to change the cuts of parts, that's a bit more expensive.
Easier (and cheaper) to add a picture or two to an instruction addendum, and go from there.
#58

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From: Schaumburg,
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Even with the minor flaws in this kit, I'm still happy to be building it, and I will be happier when it flies. At least I'll know that's it was built right. How many times have someone bought an arf hoping the Chinese glue will hold.
#59

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From: Athol,
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VMSGUY bring this up when you visit BUSA! Who knows? I am about to tackle the top wing , I modified the ribs to shorten them to mach the lower wing and ailerons...will see how much extra work that will involve. It's looking good!
#60

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Ok, I'm back since March of 2011. I had to do work on the house and organize some future plans. Sadly, I only flew once this year, and the Chicago weather wasn't being fair. I started to back-track on what I was doing last with the Phaeton. I'm currently setting up the incidence on the wings and engine. I start posting pics on the progress.
#61

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It's August 2014, and I still haven't flown my Phaeton. BOOO. I'm working on the finishing touch with engine tuning and balance. The power under the cowl is a YS FZ110S. I almost had it 100% tuned, but the rubber isolation mounts on the engine mount disintegrated due to its age. I wanted to replace the mount with a Hyde mount, but I decided to build one similar to the Hyde mount. I plan to start a new forum on the mount build. Anyways, I began to work on the balance and I noticed the plane is very tail heavy. If I new that ahead of time, I would have worked on lightening the tail. I have close to 3/4lbs of lead. Right now I'm waiting for parts to come in.
#62

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From: livingston, TX
Well I am very late to this thread, but was curious if you ever got yours done? I have had this kit sitting in my storage closet for about 7 years now. I'm finally going to get to it now. After that, I have a 96" Lazy Ace to build. That's going to take forever. Anyway, have enjoyed the read thru.
#63

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Texasrcr, I actually flew my Pheaton today, and it flies good. I'm running a ys 110 4-stroke on it. I modified the plane a bit: I added ailerons to the top wing, and attached a aluminum landing gear. The only pain is preflight on assembling the wings with the control linkages an struts. Landing the plane can take forever because it just floats. I don't fly the plane that much due to fuel cost.
Anyways, how's the summer weather in Livingston? I was out there about 3 years ago in the Brownwood area, and Granbury. I'm currently looking at Texas for retirement, but I need the drier air and lower taxes.
Anyways, how's the summer weather in Livingston? I was out there about 3 years ago in the Brownwood area, and Granbury. I'm currently looking at Texas for retirement, but I need the drier air and lower taxes.
#64

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Here are a couple things I did different on mine.
1. 1/4-20 wing bolts, used 1/4-20 flush wood inserts
2. Upper wing center bolts, 10-32. Added wood to mount and installed flanged wood insert nuts.
3. In the past on the N-struts, I have had the 4-40 nuts work lose and fall into the wing. I used 6-32 collapsible rivnuts from McMaster-carr #90186A311 which I also glued.
4. I added a 1/4" hard wood to rear of rear mount.

5. For the N-struts I also used electrical terminals on the end. Easier to mount and solder. I used those on my previous P-90's years ago. Digikey #277-11157-nd
6. Main upper wing mounts were listed as copper but they were steel. I went ahead and welded them on.
7. Top of fues removable to gain access to batteries without disassembling airplane. Was trying to find large straws to run Allen bolts through. Couldn't find them so I rolled some paper and made straws:

1. 1/4-20 wing bolts, used 1/4-20 flush wood inserts
2. Upper wing center bolts, 10-32. Added wood to mount and installed flanged wood insert nuts.
3. In the past on the N-struts, I have had the 4-40 nuts work lose and fall into the wing. I used 6-32 collapsible rivnuts from McMaster-carr #90186A311 which I also glued.
4. I added a 1/4" hard wood to rear of rear mount.

5. For the N-struts I also used electrical terminals on the end. Easier to mount and solder. I used those on my previous P-90's years ago. Digikey #277-11157-nd
6. Main upper wing mounts were listed as copper but they were steel. I went ahead and welded them on.
7. Top of fues removable to gain access to batteries without disassembling airplane. Was trying to find large straws to run Allen bolts through. Couldn't find them so I rolled some paper and made straws:

Last edited by gow589; 10-13-2022 at 10:37 AM.
#66

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I wrecked the stock cowl and have been flying without one. I was going to order one from Fiberglass Specialties, the ones with the cheeks, but I'm too cheap to order them. I also wanted to modify the wing struts where you can snap them in without having to spend 20 minutes screwing them on, but I lack a machine shop.



