Bolt on wing for an LT40
#1
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From: cochrane, ON, CANADA
Last winter I built a Sig LT40 and did a very nice job covering it, now I would like to know if anyone has
converted the wing and plane to a bolt on wing as rubber bands are a pain. If it will be too hard to do
because the wing and plane are already covered I was planing to build a complete new kit and go from
there, either way I will need some help as there are no instructions on how to do it in the manual.
If any of you have done such a modification it would help me a lot. Thanks Lou.
converted the wing and plane to a bolt on wing as rubber bands are a pain. If it will be too hard to do
because the wing and plane are already covered I was planing to build a complete new kit and go from
there, either way I will need some help as there are no instructions on how to do it in the manual.
If any of you have done such a modification it would help me a lot. Thanks Lou.
#2
I bought an ARF version of the LT40 many years ago, and it was a bolt on wing. I think its when Sig just started with the bolt on wings for the kadet.
All they had for bolting in on, was a little lip at the front of the wing to slide under the fuse former (you want to make a notch in the former so it fits nice and snug), then they just had (2) 1/2" blocks of basswood that were 4-40 tapped for the nylon wing bolt in the back, and 2 holes drilled through the wing. You may consider beefing that area up if its just balsa.
It may sound a bit confusing. Hope this helps. The hardest part will be making the lip up front, but make sure everything is lined up straight. Its not too critical on trainers, but you still want to make sure.
If you go this route, then I would suggest using T-nuts instead of the tapped 4-40 thread. I always used T-nuts instead of a tapped hole, but the tapped hole is still very strong if you put some CA in there.
Good Luck!
All they had for bolting in on, was a little lip at the front of the wing to slide under the fuse former (you want to make a notch in the former so it fits nice and snug), then they just had (2) 1/2" blocks of basswood that were 4-40 tapped for the nylon wing bolt in the back, and 2 holes drilled through the wing. You may consider beefing that area up if its just balsa.
It may sound a bit confusing. Hope this helps. The hardest part will be making the lip up front, but make sure everything is lined up straight. Its not too critical on trainers, but you still want to make sure.
If you go this route, then I would suggest using T-nuts instead of the tapped 4-40 thread. I always used T-nuts instead of a tapped hole, but the tapped hole is still very strong if you put some CA in there.
Good Luck!
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I've used the instructions in here http://www.masportaviator.com/pdfs/N...0Hobbistar.pdf to fashion bolt-on wings and it worked slick. Still I always wished for the setup where two dowels on the leading edge plugged into a brace across the cabin front and only had two bolts at the trailing edge end.
I've seen them that way but have never built one with it and whenever I toyed with the idea I wasn't certain how to establish an angle that would permit easy installation/removal yet provide solid mounting.
Please share your solution,
Clay
I've seen them that way but have never built one with it and whenever I toyed with the idea I wasn't certain how to establish an angle that would permit easy installation/removal yet provide solid mounting.
Please share your solution,
Clay
#4
Check this out: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_49...tm.htm#4904721
The pics shown are what the ARFlooks like, so you can copy that.
The pics shown are what the ARFlooks like, so you can copy that.
#5
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From: cochrane, ON, CANADA
Thanks guys, I think I will go with the dowels in the front and the bolts in the back of the wing. Another rainy day project Lou
#6
Have you joined the wing halves yet? If not you can make a center rib with a
tung on it and reinforced the bulkhead and cut a slot for the tung ala the newer
LT-40 ARF way. I had mine from 1/4" aircraft ply and once the estimated slot
height was cut, I filed the slot till the wing fit very snuggly with very little pressure
on the wing when the bolts were tightend down. It is a lot easier than drilling for dowels.
Let me know if you would like pics of my set up. The pics below are my LT-40.
tung on it and reinforced the bulkhead and cut a slot for the tung ala the newer
LT-40 ARF way. I had mine from 1/4" aircraft ply and once the estimated slot
height was cut, I filed the slot till the wing fit very snuggly with very little pressure
on the wing when the bolts were tightend down. It is a lot easier than drilling for dowels.
Let me know if you would like pics of my set up. The pics below are my LT-40.
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From: Merritt Is,
FL
#11
Check out this thread:"Bolt on wing for an LT40" www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9378908/anchors_9378908/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#9378908
#13

My Feedback: (16)
I find it difficult to post right now as the images are not loading. I got so excited, I made a post in the old LT-40 thread
</div>Here is my LT-40

these next two images are not my plane but my plane looks like this when you take the wing off
[img]{akamaiimageforum}/upfiles/106349/Gb90684.jpg[/img]
[img]{akamaiimageforum}/upfiles/106349/Ig13571.jpg[/img]
I have an older LT40 ARF from back in the 90's
About 4 yrs ago I decided to make it a Tail dragger with bolt on wings
I removed the covering under the wing for the part that fits over the fuselage.
I made a plywood wedge for the front half of the wing with two 1/4" dowels protruding.
In the front bulkhead, F-2 I drilled to matching 1/4" holes for the two dowels
At the rear, I covered the bottom of the wing with a piece of 1/8" ply with hardwood shims to allow for the dihedral
There's already a plate in the rear that I added 1/4" ply under
I drilled down through the plywood doubler on top of the wing clearance holes for 1/4" wing bolts
The plywood in the fuselage was tapped 1/4-20 for the nylon wing bolts. I put thin CA in the hole and when dry re-tapped the hole
While I was at it I used the rear reinforcement to raise the trailing edge of the wing 1/4" to subdue the tendency of the plane to climb with increased power
<div style="overflow: hidden; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); background-color: transparent; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; border: medium none;">
About 4 yrs ago I decided to make it a Tail dragger with bolt on wings
I removed the covering under the wing for the part that fits over the fuselage.
I made a plywood wedge for the front half of the wing with two 1/4" dowels protruding.
In the front bulkhead, F-2 I drilled to matching 1/4" holes for the two dowels
At the rear, I covered the bottom of the wing with a piece of 1/8" ply with hardwood shims to allow for the dihedral
There's already a plate in the rear that I added 1/4" ply under
I drilled down through the plywood doubler on top of the wing clearance holes for 1/4" wing bolts
The plywood in the fuselage was tapped 1/4-20 for the nylon wing bolts. I put thin CA in the hole and when dry re-tapped the hole
While I was at it I used the rear reinforcement to raise the trailing edge of the wing 1/4" to subdue the tendency of the plane to climb with increased power
<div style="overflow: hidden; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); background-color: transparent; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; border: medium none;">

these next two images are not my plane but my plane looks like this when you take the wing off
[img]{akamaiimageforum}/upfiles/106349/Gb90684.jpg[/img]
[img]{akamaiimageforum}/upfiles/106349/Ig13571.jpg[/img]




