claudacio

My Feedback: (9)

Well this is what my LST2 has become, the only thing missing is the pipe which is a novarossi top pipe, I am waiting for a RD Logics header to mount it. I am also waiting for a few little things to like the BAC steering link, some dual rate springs from rc raven and the MGT servo savers but thats about it:











RPM a-arms with lunsford links, on an LST2

osofast

looks good

PillowPants

Man i'm liking the moabs.. cant decide! You like 'em better than the ATX's? How are they when ran in dirt?

claudacio

My Feedback: (9)

I havent run it yet as I am waiting on my header, but I did run the moabs on my jato and the do work good as an all around tire. Anyone notice anything wrong with the way I pretty much built the rear of the truck, LOL. I mounted the shock tower, a-arms backwards. LOL

MBX5T Maniac

My Feedback: (-1)

Dude, you're missing something else:





































THE MUD!!!

Lol.

Looks sweet man. Great job

claudacio

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks mayhem, and dont worry the mud is coming! I just need the damn header to mount the pipe and I can run it.


At least I fixxed it before I ran it






Damn I cant farging wait!

2DMaxLST!!

Very nice looking setup......... Are you using a insert on the clutchbell?? I ask because it does not seem to be shimmed out enough to me. I just would feel bad if you shredded the face plate with that wicked powerplant.

Mz

claud....when you replaced the stock plates and put in the HD one that protects the exauhst.. were all of the screws the same size???.. I ask because I just recived my HD plate that protects the exauhst and i cant get two of the screws out with the hex wrenches I have.. they seem to be slightlu bigger than the other screws..[]

claudacio

My Feedback: (9)

2D:
When you say insert do you mean the thing that comes with the shim kit and goes over the outer bearing where the screw goes. Sorry for the lack of tech speak, I have never heard of an insert on the CB. Other than that I used 3 or 4 shims and that was it.

MZ:

I am pretty sure they are 1/16 if not they are going to be 5/64, I replaced them with the 1/16 head sized hexes. Are you talking about the 2 screws that go into the engine brace? Those were a real PIA to get out, I had to cut a slit in them and use a flathead screw driver to get them out.

claudacio

My Feedback: (9)

Heres some pics if this will help you determine what I dun did.

Mz

yes.. those are the ones im talking about...[:@]..... how did you cut the slit???

2DMaxLST!!

That looks good. Keep a eye on it during breakin, if it seems to gradually start slipping more and more stop and re-examine your flywheel and collet for slipage, the first sign of this is the adjustment nut getting tighter on it's own. There will be slight interference between the face of the clutch and the bell but that is ok, other than that your shoes should last ~5-7 gallons.


[link=http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c380/2DMaxLST/83c57d76.jpg]Link to a killer pic of one I setup this weekend..[/link]

claudacio

My Feedback: (9)

With a dremel, and a cut off blade. Cut a slot right in the middle of the screw just deep enough to get it out without chewing up the plate too bad, but if you arent keeping them who cares.

CR500rider

what did you use to shim up the RPM arms on the LST2 cariers?

claudacio

My Feedback: (9)

I used the ends of the LST2's a arms. I cut them off with a craftsman handicut and then made little slices of them.

CR500rider

i noticed you have some proline 23mm hex wheels, how did you get those to fit on the LST2 with 20mm hexes?

MBX5T Maniac

My Feedback: (-1)

you pull off the 20 mm hexes, and replace them

tsperling

Claud,
I notice that u used what looks like a peice of fuel line on your brake linkage instead of the spring that came with it. Why did you make the change? Does the fuel line increase the pressure on the brakes and increase braking power. I have noticed that the LST2, out of the box, does not have that much braking power. Will your change solve this problem?

Thanks,
Tim

SublimeJason

The LST2 has Lots of Braking power, You must Not have it Adjusted Up?

claudacio

My Feedback: (9)

Those are not Proline hexxes, those are CEN 23mm hexxes off of the nemesis and genesis, they are a perfect fit for the LST2.


Its more of a personall preference for me, but some people like fuel tubing over a spring and some people like it the other way around. I do think its better than the spring myself, but somebody else will tell you otherwise.

As far as getting more braking out of your LST2, you can adjust the servo endpoint adjustment (EPA) on your radio. Or you can deal with whats already been set and see if you can get more out of it by adjusting the linkage collar but I think its easier to do it with the the EPA function on your radio.

tsperling

Really. I have already adjusted the EPA, but I guess I did not add enough. Anyway, do you have any idea why Claud made the mod? Do you think it was to make the brakes more responsive? It seems to me that eliminating the spring and replacing it with a stiffer spacer would make the brakes more responsive? What do u think?

claudacio

My Feedback: (9)

I think 90% of people that run nitro rc's are using fuel tubing on there brake linkage, its what I have always used. And I have heard that it will give the brakes better response from one magazine or another. I know on the monster GT its the only way to get some kind of braking power, I got my brother one and he kept complaining about the brakes not working, adjusted it all the way and still didnt work right. A peice of fuel tubing curred it.

So just try it, it isnt that big of a modification that its going to ruin something or cannot be reversed. It can only make you know more about your brakes/truck and how they/it works.

tsperling

thanks. Appreciate the input.

Mz

claud...or any one.... since i dont have a dremel.... what would you recomend using.. or do i have to use a dremel?

claudacio

My Feedback: (9)

I'm really thinking thats the only option. I got one from target for $25, its a cheapo brand called durabuilt but it has saved my ***** I dont know how many times. If you have to buy one and funds are limited (like they ever arent) get the one from target man. Dont buy a $20 cordless dremel brand, believe me you'll be sorry. I did and it and it would barely cut a peice of cheese. The one at target has a cord, definitely stick with a corded version unless you are gonna go all out and buy the top $$$ dremel lithion ion one. All the dremel fittings or attachments whatever they are called fit into the durabuilt one, trust me its a worth while investment.

I really cant see any other way except drilling it, but then you'd be chancing ever getting whats left after drilling the head off, out. Whatever you have to do man, I would say to get the rotary tool (dremel) and do it like that, its the easiest and best way to get them bastids out.