I am starting new thread for those of us with Stock Stryker issues. I am keeping one Stryker strickly " stock" for combat. This is to keep a "level playing field" with competition.

Ok , problem just occured after changing and connecting battery. I got a steady series of beeps and some intermittent movement of control surfaces as well as bursts of motor. It was like I have a short making and breaking. I tried moving the rx and wiring to see if it had and effect. This lasted about 15-20 second and the beeps began to fade out. That was it. Tried 2nd battery and same thing. Anyone reconize this problem?? Up to now ( for about 3 months of flying ) no problems.

Thanks , Bill

Bill,
This is a pure stock PZ Stryker? I have had 4 if I remember correctly that were stockers, I've never heard a beep out of any of them.
Let's start with the basics, are the batteries fully charged?
Did you check them?
Are you using the included charger or another charger?
Answer these and we'll go on from there.
BJ

p.s. We may be the crazies from the Dark Side on the other forum, but we don't bite.
We've all pretty much started with stockers. Don't be afraid to ask questions on the other forum, we're happy to help, and learn.

AH HA...darn. I RACED to get back to the forum so I could answer my own question. Too late!
Ok , I replaced the batteries once already just because I figured it was time. No other indication that they were needed. That has been about 2 mos ago. Anyway , I tested the cells today and they were all @0.9v ! I installed new ( 1.5v ) cells and quess what. No beeping. I never thought that this little "toy" tx could be that smart! When my Futaba 9c beeps like that............low batteries! It dawned on me after a couple hours. duh

So there you have it kids. Go out and get you some rechargeable cells and save money in the long run.

Bill

Thanks Glacier ,
I have been viewing the Dark Side for awhile now. Got my bare fuse and nose still in the box waiting for the day I join the big "Stryker Insane Hop Up Club". I just cant quite get organized quite yet for performance electric. The information is so huge, I almost need a "grocery list" from someone with everything i need to buy pre-packaged. But of course , we all know, you dont learn much that way. And since there is no spare time when you are in this hobby, Ill have go to a part time job so I can stay up with the important stuff!! ...............but then theres the $$$...........emm


Bill

bldrums
i concure with Glacier
as soon as you have flown stock and want to take it one step further then you are going way pasted the limit
i can understand your point in keeping a simple stock thread but some of these guy's that have flown stock for many months/years have been there and fixed the problems..
also they are so willing to help in any way possible,
i have never flown a stock stryker but if i can help with my limited knowledge i will do so
a hop up could be as simple as putting a point on the nose of sanding down to get better airspeed
i dont want this to sound wrong or in anyway sound incorrect but if you have a forum of stock stryker only users it could be like "the blind leading the Blind"
there is a wealth of information that you can tap into on the main thread
Please Jion us..
we all learn and we all teach
as well as that.. we are all crazy too .. MmmmuuuHhhahah
Cadetman

I agree 100% and thank everyone on this site for making it an informative and friendly place on the internet.


see ya'll over at the main thread!
Bill

Ah, we have another convert. WELCOME to the DARK SIDE, WELCOME TO THE ADDICTION!

Hi all,
I need to make some foam repairs but need some product info and repair advice. I have some chunks of foam missing from the leading edges of my wing. Hitting trees, fences etc. I would like to know if there is any kind of light foam filler that I can use. I was thinking about cutting out the wrecked area and glueing in a fresh piece of foam, sanding to contour and repainting the area? I was also thinking about the foam spray that you can buy at your local hardware store that you spray into cracks and it expands and hardens, sanding to contour and repainting the area. First of all I don't know what the weight of the material would be once hardened and what the effects it will have on foam? Any suggestions would be nice. I'm a show and go flyer so my birds gotta look FRESH and SWEEET!

Thx,

JPGR

I would suggest cutting out damaged area and making a piece to fit, if it's a small area.
You could use just about any kind of styrofoam for a patch.
Not so sure how spay foam would work, it might actually eat the foam.

Here's a tip....use heat shrink tubing on that little "clevis" when the stock rubber holders break off (they will). Works great and no risk of a clevis coming loose on you. I also am now using two rubberbands via the front most body hole (generation 2 body) to hold the nose on. Works great and no more tape taking your custom paint job off. In fact, I wrecked her hard yesterday and the nose did what it should do...broke away to absorb crash momentum but didn't break the body or nose...just snapped the rubberbands. That leads to my next question...

I now have no power. I put a voltmeter on the board and it is getting juice to the board where the power lines attach to it, but beyond that I'm at a loss. I used a magnifying glass to look for a loose contact somewhere but couldn't find anything, even by torking on various components. So now I suspect a part has gone bad. If it's in one of the chips then forget about it. However, if it's the FET, a resistor, or one of the capacitors then that's something I can fix. Anybody know how to test the FET, transistor, or the capacitors with a voltmeter? The resistors are easy enough to check, but I don't remember how to check the other components from my high school days.

Also still looking for a good replacement motor for the STOCK Stryker. Something that will give more speed and power.

Stryker help line, how can I assist you.
Jeeze Critter , is everything you use going bad?
Ok you got power in, And I'm sure you checked power out at the leads to the motor.
Did you check where leads(ones going to the motor) are soldered in, at the Rx?
Poor solder joints are a known problem. Also bad connection at the leads themselves.
Unless you figure your time is worthless, and it isn't. Why waste it trying to fix a $27.00 Rx.

Come over to the Stryker forum. If you really have your heart set on trying to fix it, there are several techno geeks availible for you to ask.
Operators are standing by for your questions.

I agreed with GG's advice and proceeded to cutting out the damaged areas and made new pieces to fit. With a new exacto, I was able to cut out the damaged areas with ease. With the new pieces, glue and activator, I started in on my reconstruction of the leading edge. Well to make a long story short, it didn't go as planned. It flat lined on me several times as I continually tried to resuscitate while holding, gluing and keeping my fingers from gluing together. It got messy and went down hill from there. The "foam safe glue" and activator ate up the foam and solidified it into a hard solid ball. I pulled the blanket up over its head and called the time of death.

After a few days of seriously thinking about what happened I worked up a plan to bring Frankenstein back to life again. After cutting out the ball of solidified foam, the replacement area is now twice the size. With the new pieces and 5 minute epoxy, I will reconstruct once again. If any one else has a better process, I think 5 minute epoxy will work.

Thx,


JPGR

Epoxy is better, it has a little give to it. you can even use Zap or Goop.
Tip: Impale the new transplant piece on a toothpick. You can hold it in place, no glue on fingers,
and foam will self heal around hole when you pull the toothpick out.

You have to be carefull when using a kicker on CA as you found out. sometimes just using CA works better.
I've used 3m CA it works on foam,plastic, etc.

GG, I haven't been having as much bad luck as it may sound. You have to remember, I've beat the living tar out of this plane learning it, having only flew a Challenger prior. Considering I'm on my second body (which is generation 2 and is holding up nicely to the intense crashes...glues together well with only two major breaks thus far), I've only had to replace two servos and now the circuit board. I think this is very good if you would have seen some of the crashes I've done thus far. At least my crashes now are from trying to do a trick at too low of an altitude (like inverted flight), instead of just trying to get the plane to fly. I'm way beyond launch and loops and am now pushing her into new advanced flight stunts...even flying in high rates here and there.

What I couldn't understand was that the loss of power was after a hard crash. Since it would appear to be crash related, I would have expected a loose contact on the board somewhere...but despite my intense search with a good magnifying glass I can't find any loose contact. Now I suspect that one of the input power wires from the battery, or the two going to the motor, may have flexed enough to short circuit the board and blow a part. I have no servo or motor power but I am getting power to the board where the battery lines come in. I'd like to check the FET, transistor, and the capacitors on the board for proper function if I can dig up how to do that. The resistors are easy enough to check. I already ordered a new board but doesn't hurt to try fixing the old one.

Oh, by the way...I saw reference that you guys were getting two servos with the RX for $26 despite the fact that it wasn't listed as coming with the servos. A buddy of mine just picked up his RX but no servos came with it. Is there a special place to order the RX from in order to get the extra servos?

Hey Critter, I thought I read something in one of the forums that if you are going to or thinking about replacing your RX and keeping it stock to use a RX from the new Parkzone Mustang. I think it is compatible and rated high enough that if you wanted to upgrade to lipo's and brush-less it would work. Some one please correct me if I am wrong?

Thx,

JPGR

Bldrums,

I had exactly the same problem (the beeping problem). The controller beeped from day one, even with brand new batteries. If I pressed on the controller near the on/off switch, I could usually get it to go away. A fellow Stryker buddy of mine who is an electrical engineer told me I likely had a bad solder joint in the transmitter. It never caused any problems for me, but it was very distracting to have the beep going off while I was flying. I just made sure that I had good batteries when I flew it. I bought another used Stryker with the same channel off of Ebay and used the new transmitter, so that I wouldn't have to deal with the annoying beep. I'm sure it could befixed with a little electronics expertise.

Hope this helps. Watsonthecat

Glacier and all,

I recently put a 480BB in my stock stryker, and it added considerable speed/power. Unfortunately, it blew out a transmitter in the receiver, which had to be repaired but the crash did no damage to the plane. If I put the PZ p-51 receiver, would it be able to handle the 480BB better, while allowing me the benefits of having the rest of the setup stock, such as being able to use the combat module. I appreciate your thoughts.

Watsonthecat.

P51 Mustang RX Upgrade In Striker: I COMPLETELY forgot all about that! Thanks for reminding me after I already ordered a stock RX. :') Yes, from what I've read the RX in the Mustang will work with V tails or can be set into another flight configuration to work with various planes. In fact, you could stick that sucker into a Challenger and now use a 480 motor to blast it through the sky. On the other hand, not sure if high or low rates will still work with the Stryker? Others? The Mustang RX will allow you to run lipos but as far as I know it isn't brushless compatible. I'm waiting for somebody to invent a device that goes between the motor and the stock speed controller on a Hobbyzone/Parkzone plane, allowing you to run a brushless motor. Also, I've been told that there are cheap voltage cutoff devices that you can install between the battery and RX on a parkzone/hobbyzone plane that will cut the power at a safe level when using a lipo...but I haven't looked into it. It isn't specific for these planes, just a easy way to hack a lipo into a non-lipo setup. Maybe somebody has more info on this?

Whatsonthecat: Which companies 480BB did you put in it and can you tell me the specifics of this motor....IE: Reverse timed, etc? I may pick it up.

Guys if you look on Horizon's site, the mustang's Rx is 3 cell compatible, has 2 modes for controls. and yes jumpers for v-tail etc. The stang is running a 480 motor, more than likely the same one as the Stryker. Not real sure how long the stock motor will hold up on a 3 cell, from what I remember was only around 15 runs before it puked.

Watson,
You need to check the amp drawl on the 480bb, per PZ the stock speed control is rated for 15 amps. I doubt the stang's is any higher as its running a gear box.

Critter,
the servo/ rx deal was way back when. I think Pz figured why give it a way if they could make you buy it.
Also on your Rx problem, check the 2 motor wires where they connect to the rx. If insulation is cut too high they can touch one of the components right next to them and fry.
Sorry but it's been quite a while since I looked at a PZ rx.

Critter,
yes there are cut outs available to wire in line for lipos.
Or you can use the timing method. time flights, landing occasionally to check pack volts. Once you reach limit for pack. deduct a couple of min from limit, for just in case factors.
Note: A 2 cell lipo will actually perform better and longer then stock packs. Even though it is lower voltage then say an 8 cell, it will hold same volts for a longer time. Regular packs start out high and drop drastically on the volt side.

To all you "NEWBIES"
What you are seeing in this forum is exactly what happened in the original Stryker forum way back when. This was supposed to be for stock strykers. As of Post #20, you guys are already into Rx changes, lipo savers, motor changes,and lipos. You are no longer "stockers".
It's time to come over to the DARK SIDE as we the ELDERS of the Stryker forums call it.
We are the ones who have been there and done that, when it comes to the Stryker.
Leave this forum for pure stock newbies if you must, but you guys are growing into the next generation of Stryker elders, when you go away from stock. Come over and ask your hop up questions, learn from us, save yourselves the hassle and expenses of failures.
When this bug bites you, and it will. you are going to be spending some serious dollars on a $20.00 fuselage. My latest has over $800.00 invested in it, not counting my labor. My total investment in just Strykers is well over $5000.00. And just think, 2 yrs ago I was just like you. We can show you the SAFE way to go fast. We have birds that will clock in excess of 100mph. My latest should do 135-140. Not bragging, just trying to show how serious we are on the Stryker. We want you to become the Elders when we move on, and we want to be sure you are the rightful teachers to the next generation of Stryker newbies.
Brad

(BREAKING OUT THE LIGHT SABOR)....OK, back off Glacier Girl...:') I'm only trying to hop up the stock internals WITHOUT going to standard electronics. I'm content with trying to tweak out whats stock. Maybe next spring I'll go standard with a lipo and a brushless setup, but that involves money. Mainly the major expense is a good radio in my calculations, as lipos and brushless motors are dropping in price.

For those who don't know....The Mustang uses a 480 (probably the same motor as the Stryker) and it's RX/Speed Control can be set to handle Nimhs or Lipos. It also features at least two (that I'm aware of) flight modes, V-Tail mixing or the other (which I don't know the name for). Mainly, this means you can throw it into a V-Tail plane like the Challenger. You can also throw it into a Stryker. Now, what this means is you can use the Mustang internals to power anything up to a 480 motor...so I would guess it would not be possible for an Extreme as it uses a 540 (580?). However, it opens several options for smaller planes like the Challenger. I would assume using the stock 400 Challenger motor (or a 400 Zagi, etc) would pose no problems with the Mustang's RX as the main concern would be amp draw and smaller motors should draw less amps. On the other hand, you could stick a 480 in there and blast that baby throw the sky.

My main question about using Mustang internals is the sport/pro mode (or low and high rates in the Stryker's case). Will the Mustang RX work with the Stryker's low/high rates switch on it's TX, and will it also work with the sport/pro mode on the Challenger's TX? Anybody?

Whatsonthecat: What's the name of the 480BB you put in the Stryker and is it reverse timed, etc? Thinking of picking that one up if it performs better like you said.

IT'S ALIVE!! I succesfully rebuilt the leading edge using 5 minute epoxy, toothpics and rubber bands. Sanded and repainted back to stock camoflage colors within 1/2 hour. Can't even tell it has been damaged. I think CA and activator are great for on the field repairs, but something that requires great detail was easier done with 5 min epoxy.

Thx,

JPGR

Oh Critter, the Force is strong in you. I will break you though, you will become a dark Jedi.
How was that?

Any how, did I mention the water break in and retiming the stock motor to you guys, I do it so often I forget who I told.
2 quick items that will prolong the life and increase the performance of the motor.
And you still are stock.
If I did, sorry remember I'm an elder.
If not, ask and I shall oblige the secrets again to you.

From someone sitting on the sidelines...

48 pages of posts on the.... ermmm..... dark side... is a bit too intimidating... It'd take forever to read it.

24 posts is much more digestable.. and no less exciting