Don't know if it's been asked or not - so here goes... I've got a CNC and wanted to cut my own cores - do you have the templates, dwg's, etc for this you can make available??

HI

On Mikes approval the templates will br released for cnc cutting they are nearly finished now in dxf format with no extra lines to confuse the cnc machine or in gcode what ever is needed

Thanks

Troy

Thanks for the reply Troy, that's good news.

Yep.

One note about these cores and CNC...the CNC doesn't like some of them, specifically the turtle decks. After a lot of different approaches, I've decided the fuse cores are best cut by hand.

-Mike

OK, I'll ask - what about the cores doesn't CNC like? this design "looks" (from my uneducated point of view on this design) tailor made for a CNC buildup.

Radical taper. Wicked burn out.

Wings and stabs are easy, the fin and fuse cores are very prone to burning up at the small end.

But I didn't say it CAN'T be done, just that so far nobody has had any success trying it with a CNC......yet.

-Mike

Fin cores---don't know anything about CNC cutting, but by hand, my best results have come from:
Templates for base and T/E, draw bow from junction of base and T/E, parallel to L/E.
Exit at L/E.
(Long lead-ins and lead-outs necessary, smooth hard templates essential.)

No problems cutting the pieces by hand (modified feather cut actually), just trying to CNC the pieces. The TEs are fine, it's the 3 or 4:1 cut ratio that fries the tips.

-Mike

I've been trying. Wings and stabs are easy to cut on CNC. Takes some playing with setup, but they can be cut nicely. The turtle decks are a different story. Due to the different shapes of them front and rear it is a very difficult cut file to come up with. I haven't given up yet, but so far no luck.

Arch Stafford

Mike,

I am really interested in the Black Magic now. I was considering a Genesis for a bit, however after thinking it over, I'm pretty much sold on this one. What would be the possibility of you being able to bring short kit #2 to the Nats, as that is when I would be needing it. If not, I can order it sometime sooner, like in May. Thanks a lot and take care.

Hmm I dunno, I was planning on bringing a few to the nats just in case. Just let me know and I'll make sure I have whatever you need.

-Mike

I have a genuine interest in the cnc foam cutting. I am familiar with EDM programming where the top and bottom shapes can differ completely. In those cases, there are keypoints along the two profiles that have to match up during the cut, keeping the wire perpendicular to the desired profile. If not, the effect can be like someone twisted one end while keeping the other stationary. The code is generally written so that these keypoints are described in the same line of code seperated by a colon or other syntax. Can anyone tell me if the programming capability is like this on the cnc foam cutters?


example (1" square at one end, 2" dia. circle at the other end....x0y0 is the centerpoint of each shape):

"assume wire is at starting point at X.50Y.50 (upper right corner of square end) and x.7071y.7071 (45° position circle end)"

"(square coordinates(x,y) : circle coordinates(x,y));"
"G01X.5Y0: G02X1.0Y0I-.7071J-.7071;"
"G01X.5Y-.5: G02X.7071Y-.7071I-1.0;"
"G01X0Y-.5: G02X0Y-1.0I-.7071J.7071;"
"G01X-.5Y-.5: G02X-.7071Y-.7071J1.0;"
"G01X-.5Y0: G02X-1.0Y0I.7071J.7071;"
"G01X-.5Y.5: G02X-.7071Y.7071I1.0;"
"G01X0Y.5: G02X0Y1.0I.7071J-.7071;"
"G01X.5Y.5: G02X.7071Y.7071J-1.0;"
"M02;"

(I & J represent x,y radius components to define arc centerpoint)

-mark

Hi friends, there are certain software wich let you cut differen shapes at any end, as mark say

This software is in spanish, and is made for RC cutting shapes, like airfoils, turtledecks, botton deck, etc...

Name's cenece

Some friends in Spain sell it, software, electronics, mechanics.... any you need

This is that I use

By the way, Mike I'll buy plans and composites next month

Roberto

Just a few more pics, courtesy of Dean Funk. i'm beginning to update the web site. I'd give anything if I could edit my first post in this thread so I could pput in the finished V2 pics.

man these things fly nice!!!!!!!!!

Hi Mike

How do you stop those propellers spinning mid flight thats a neat trick

Troy

Hi

I have started cutting all the formers sides, and the foam blocks for my Black Magic. I have constructed the firewall out off carbon fiber and nomex. Hopefully I will start to build tomorrow and cut the foam wings and stab.

Troy

I think I've got my head pretty clear after everything that happened at Ocala. Between an engine not running, 2 crashes right before my eyes and my first 2 rounds being rather embarrassing for me, things are finally getting back to normal, whatever that may be.

I want to thank both Mike and Emory for letting me fly their V2's. Although neither of them had enough aileron for me they both went through the P-07 fine (although Emory's was cut short).

Mike is 100% right when he says that they are easy to do rolls (point, slow, reversing). You don't have to think about it when you do it. Snaps stop “now� when you want, even slowly with such little aileron. The only thing that wasn't as strong or better than my Impact's was the rudder authority around the last part of the rolling loop, which it still did, just needed high rate rudder. Mike had warned me that his is a bit nose heavy, so I'm sure it would get better with some CG adjustment. Other than that, the 11lb plane flew great... oh wait, Mike said something about 9.5lbs for his.

Bump

Hi Guys

Apologies for a bump on the first post but i really have to get an update and bring this one back to the start. My interest is to the point that i had to register to get an update.

Surely somebody has updated pictures, build, plans, info etc.

As i'm in the UK does anybody have an electronic version of the plans to avoid shipping costs and i'll get them printed here.

Thanks

Ian

PS - Sorry to hear about the E version, sure it wasnt carbon lockout. I had a robbe futura SE a few years back and that suffered radio lockout becuase of the carbon plates causing interferance - the fix was to "ground" the plates. took 2 expensive crashes before solving

Nope, wasn't carbon lockout. I have MUCH more carbon in the 3 other planes I'm flying, and using 2 different Futabas and a JR, have never had so much as a glitch. there is no carbon in the rear of the plane to speak of anyway. And the plane was flying away quartering both times it got hit. nothing but wood between both antennas.

I'm going to try and finish the build portion of this thread later this week. I've been more busy the last couple of months than the last couple of years put together.

-Mike

HI Everyone

Yep the electronic version is very very close. But shipping isnt that much anyway, by the time you pay for printing of the sheets is almost equal to the shipping anyway. Mike will have the electronic version fully complete and ready to go just after easter for his distrubition.

Thanks

Troy

Allright, you dated it now

I am furiously making parts, so I'll have a good supply of Black magic parts again by mid week after I fill the pre-existing orders. Just a heads up; lead time right now is under a week.

-Mike

PS I'm going through this thread figuring out exactly what I did and did not cover, and if I need to go back and ammend anything.

PSS Can you guess what I'm doing tonight??? [:'(]

Hi Mike

Hope some of those foam blocks have got my name on for my 2 your sending to the UK :-)

Ian

Yep, waitin on you [8D]

-Mike

Stabilizers

First, as always with the wings ans stabs, true up your edges. Make sure your roots are squared, and the roots and tips match each other.

Draw reference lines for the cuts and angles on the top of the stabs, specifically the hinge lines and the angles at the root.

Using a band saw, scroll saw or a really steady hand, cut the angle at the root where it meets the fuse, and the angle of the elevator root. DO NOT cut the hinge line yet, you need the whole thing intact to set your incidence.

Make a root rib template and make your root ribs. make them slightly oversize so you can sand to final shape after glueing.

Now is usually when I glue in the stab socket tube...

Start on the fuse by drawing a reference line through the locations of the center line of the stab. be sure to bring the front of the line forward of F9.

Using a 1/2" piece of sharpened brass tubing, carefully bore out the hole for the stab tube. Note the angles. only go in half way from one side, and half way from the other. When you're finished, wrap a piece of 150 grit sandpaper around the stab tube itself (not the socket) and sand the hole until the socket fits nicely. If it's a little sloppy, that's fine, we'll fill it during installation.

Insert the center piece of socket in the hole, and lay your root rib in place. line up the rib so the center lines match (and you have effectively 0 incidence) and drill the hole for the adjuster pin. Flip the plane over and do the same for the other side.

When you're done, put the pin in place and tack glue it.