would it be possible to take pictures of that set screw you are talking about, or tell me what page and picture number it is in the manual? im hoping that i can get away will that, and maybe tightening up my clutch shoes and be good to go....

also, are the screws that hold the rear aluminum skid plate held on with locktite? if they are im guessing i need to use a butane torch to heat them up good?

TIA

as im sure you can see the it seems like the differential is broken........that part just snapped right off.....so im guessing i have to replace teh whole diff? is there like a better one i can buy, a hop up from the stock? and i might as well add gear oil when i put the new one in, so whats the best way to get rid of all the grease? will brake cleaner work? we use that for cleaning metal at the garage i used to work at.....thanks

If you opt to buy the Nemesis Diff Upgrade which would require the upright braces as well.. Here are the links to Ebay units which are usually the most cost effective way of converting

[link=http://cgi.ebay.com/CEN-NEMESIS-Front-or-Rear-Differential-Gearbox-New-Diff_W0QQitemZ190098112313QQcategoryZ34063QQssPage NameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem]Nemesis Diff From Ebay[/link]

If you dont have the GST you will need these:
[link=http://cgi.ebay.com/CEN-NEMESIS-Bulkhead-Set-New-GS011-Bulk-Heads_W0QQitemZ190098112306QQcategoryZ34063QQrdZ1Q QcmdZViewItem]Nemesis Bulkhead Braces Are The Same As The GST Version[/link]

[link=http://www.headrushhobbies.com/estore_dtl.aspx?pid=229&catn=Genesis/Nem%20Upgrade]Or You Could Pay The Extra And Get It All At Once Here[/link]

There are even Heavy duty Outputs for the Nemesis Diffs Found [link=http://www.customrccars.com/product_temp_trial.asp?id=1668&cat=21&custom=0]Here for $30.00[/link] but you will need the Nemesis Diffs for this upgrade

Hope this helps,,,good luck

and the drive shaft should slide right on to those? also would it be benificial to switch out the front diff, even tho its not broken, so i have two of the nemesis diffs?

Is it reommended for GST owners to upgrade to Nemesis diffs?

and with the clutch, because thats still not working right, what all is involved in tightening the screws? and do i just tighten the clutch shoes screws till the clutchbell has friction against it? is it possible to over tighten?

Yes the drive shafts will work you just need to swap the front drive ball and rear drive cup to the new diffs

if im going to take apart the clutchbell and clutch shoes would it be in my interest to invest in something like this??

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MakeTrack=true

or are there some other type of clutch shoes upgrade out there?

I dont use them with good results I am still running my OEM Shoes But some of the racers use them,

My bad,,,If you have the updated GST bulkheads then you wont need the bulkheads I spec'ed earlier. The updated GST bulkheads ARE the Nemesis Part...Just dont reuse the green spacers.

the green spacers are the ones that are on the inside of the hole on each bulkhead, where the diff goes in, right? so i can just pry those out? i dont need new metal spacers?

if the nemesis bulkheads are better i might just buy them i think it was like 10 bucks for the left and right and front and rear.....

oh also, i got the motor out...seems like the clutchbell spins freely in both directions...also there seems to be a large gap between the clutch shoes and the clutchbell...i can take pictures if needed......but how do i get the clutch bell off? when i try to turn the screw it turns the motor....do i need to use vise grips and hold it? TIA

ALSO......would it be too soon to install the roto start? i figured since i have the motor out, now would be the best time.... i broke it in using cen's breakin procedure, and then idled two tanks through (when i was having problems and it wouldnt' drive)

if now is not a good time, how many more tanks would you recommend running through it before i install the rotostart?

Unlawfull, yes on the spacers, just pry them out. The bulkheads you have ARE the Nemesis part# so there is no difference once you pry out the spacers. There should be a gap between the shoes and clutchbell. Yes you will need to grip the flywheel while turning the screw to the left to loosen it. Install the roto-start while the engine is out, just remember the roto start is hard on the oneway bearing so get a couple for your field/pit box.


Here's a question for you,,,, When you spin the clutchbell and it slows to a stop does it seem to spin just a bit further to make one side(the same side after a few attempts) on the bottom, or does it back up to do the same?? Just curious to see if you got one manufactured out of balance. LMK

Anyway enjoy your tear down!!

well, i put a small scratch on the bottom part of the clutchbell, and when i spin it....fast or slow, clockwise or counterclockwise it ALWAYS stops with the scratch on the bottom......

it will seem like its going to stop on another part, but then moves a bit more so that the scratched part is on the bottom....

guess its out of balance...now what?

and if there is suppose to be a gap between the shoes and the bell, what should i adjust....bc like i said before, the clutchbell wouldn't spin even if i gave the motor 3/4 throttle, but the fly wheel does.

oh and is there anything else you'd suggest upgrading or replacing while its apart? i have the front tore apart and the motor out...also should i get two of the nemesis diffs and replace both? and is there a certain place youd recommend getting diff oil? or what brand?

sorry for all the questions...just trying to cover my self before ig et this back on the road

(tried to delete)

First thing is be more careful with your posts dont post quickly after a post. Use the edit feature if you need to add something to your previous post.

Anyway take the clutchbell off and see if the shoes are hung up.

As for the balancing of you clutchbell just put it back on use a dremel to grind a small amount of material from the outside of the bell but be sure you spread/feather out your grind so you dont create at groove(weak point). just take very small amounts off at a time and continually check your work. Take your time.

I have found out 5 bells I have bought, three were out of balance, I want to check the flywheel, so I think I am going to invest in a prop balancer for these tasks

Have fun!!

is that part number "GS205" just for the diff case? or is that for everything i see in the auction? (the internals as well)

http://206.188.200.166/index.asp?Pag...h=gs205&Page=1

ok, got the clutchbell off....grinded it down, seems very well balanced now....


here are some hires pictures of the clutch shoes and clutchbell...

seems like the clutchbell has temp band things on it (the heat marks....can't remember what they are called) also there was a lot of soot and grim on the chasis around the motor mount and clutchbell...is it possible the clutch shoes got burned up? i use a screwdriver and was able to lift each one up a small amount so i dont think they are frozen.
take a look and see what you think

thanks...

http://xpacx.getmyip.com/rc/

Holy gargantuan porportions, Batman!! those pictures are huge!!!

Yep thats a burnt clutch if I've ever seen one!!!!! your shoes are shot too.. need to get both ordered.... what do the pinions look like?? Are they salvagable??

My Question to you, is "What the hell???" What caused that???? did you have the brakes on while reving??

pinions (the gears right? that connect to the gears on the tranny???) they are fine....nothing wrong with them at all....

so i need both a clutchbell and clutch shoes....

is this something that cen will warranty? i dont know how it burnt up like that. could it be possible that when the diff went it locked everything up? because both things seemed to happen at the same time.

and as usual....are there hopup parts to these? should i try the aluminum clutch shoes?

thanks again....i owe you a beer or somethign for all the help...lol

Well if the Diff failure Locked things up, then maybe.I just can't help but ask "If it did lock up and the truck did not move why did you continue to throttle it and burn the clutch??" But give CEN A call and see what happens... The worst they could say is "No"

I dont think you need the aluminum shoes, just get back on the road and enjoy.. I have been using the Oem shoes and still have the spare set I bought with a clutchbell last year!!


No problem on the assistance...Thats what we do.....

Good luck

i think i was probably trying to figure out why its not moving....bc when i was breaking it in, i noticed it would bogg a little bit when i gave it gas, then it would just grab out of nowhere...i didn't notice anythign burning up....oh well....the more i work on this and tear things apart, the less i am pissed at CEN....

this should do the trick, right?
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-CEN-GST-GENE...QQcmdZViewItem

so the shopping list consist of
nemesis diffs, diff fluid, that clutch/flywheel package above. and i think tahts it...

ill probably do some research and see what other parts are prone to breaking, so i dont have to waste anymore sunny days.

Thanks again

Perfect on the link that would do it!! $40-$50 Usually Sometimes less


Good start on the shopping list. Just fool yourself into thinking thats it!! I said that and now I have two CENS!! Fresh built LE(Started out as spare parts and ended up an obsession) and my Badssed Nemesis!! Check my gallery!

Good luck!! And most of all enjoy!!

i was looking at teh gallery..how does that dual servo steering work out? i like how it looks too, pretty clean

also, do you happen to have pictures of the sway bars, i get paid friday, so i have to make my shopping list before then, so i can clear it with the boss..