OK! This is my 2nd session with my GST (1st was during broken in). While having fun in the sand, and after my 3rd tank, suddenly, there's no engaging of the gears. The truck does not move even I rev the engine. The engine clutch and the bell did engage, the pinion gears and the spur gear work great! All 4 wheels are not lock. Brakes are ok! So what could be the problem. I suspect the Forward/ rear shifter are not engage properly. I have use the reverse a couple of time before this incident. Please help!

your drive shaft lost a grub screw or you broke a drive hub on the differential.

Hi, Thanks for your input,
Where does these located?
Did you mean Drive Shaft for the front/ rear Telescopic shaft or the suspension arm's shaft?
How abot the drive hub on the differential?
I have not been very hard with my truck, I hope this is nothing major
It is soooo difficuitto get parts here
Thanks!

Any other advice guys?

OK! Just found out that on of my rear wheel is lock, the other is free,
what could be the problem
Sorry for the NOOB question!
Please help!

man, seems like the similiar issues that im having with my truck are very common.....was there a bad batch of them made? this seems like it says a lot about quality assurance. parts should not break this soon, and the fact that myself and others have to spend the time tearing it down and money for postage to mail the parts back is very annoying.....espically after paying 600 dollars for something. (i could have simply gotten a cheap T-maxx, but i wanted the best and expected the best, so i was fine with paying a good chunk of change, because i was trying to avoid similiar issues....)


on a side note, good luck with your ride, check out my post for more info....and thanks again guys for your replies and help with the diagnosis.

Unlawful, Would you rather buy it in kit form and assemble it yourself. Then maybe there wouldn't be as many issues of screws coming loose. Well, any RTR you buy, you definitely need to go thru the truck completely and check every screw. Especially those that are KNOWN to be loose or not installed propoerly at the factory(as fast as they are assembling them you just know the time is not really taken to get the grub screw on the flat portion of the pinion shaft Before tightening)

Anyway enough ranting, Good points tho..

well, i dont think there are really any screws loose, seems as though there is an issue internally with the front diff, and does that mean i should have taken the motor apart and adjusted the clutch shoes? i understand things break/wear out, and i knew this when i got started with the hobby, just wasn't expecting anything to happen right after break-in........and sorry if i shoulded a bit pissed off, every day the weather is getting nicer here (comming out of winter) and i get more annoyed when i can't have my car on the road.....but tommorrow i plan on disassembling it and getting new parts on the way if need be....

You actually got my point. It doesn't have to be a loose screw, the point is ANY new RTR will have problems from the factory you should completely go thru it and check it over. And if you dont, then dont be surprised or disappointed when something is not installed right, or just plain go bad...

I'm not trying to be mean,, Its just so often we will hear the same story of how someone just broke in their truck then all of a sudden it wont move. or wont start or wont something... And MOST of the time its something over looked or could have been avoided just by going thru the RTR and catching issues before they become issues. Then, flame the manufacturer for poor or questionable quality. These are HOBBY grade RTR and require a diligent vigilance to keep them happy. I would be unhappy if I bought a RadioShack RTR it did not move, but that is a toy and should be good to go..

Go ahead tear it down, tear it all down... find those issues, fix those issues.. But most of all Have fun!!!!!!!

HI GUYS!
Thanks for you input.
I finally got the time to dismentle the rear diff
Well! the OUTDRIVE CUP snap into 2 pcs
Hope I am able to get the spares by next week!
I think I should must as well put some diff oil
Please recommend what diff oil setup is good for all round bashing, and racing
Thanks in advance!

yup, mine did the same thing when i was doing donuts in the grass. these things have so much touque that if you see a wheel balloon too much it will break a drive cup, mine was like someone cut it with a laser it was so smooth and sheard in half. that is the only thing that broke on mine and a rear shock from a high jump. besides that these trucks are very durable for 17lbs.for diff oil setup look at the cen racing page and click on their setup for the nemesis or the genesis le very informitive. mine are all stock except for 50wt in the front and 70wt in the rear shocks, for those high jumps.

ok, so on another topic....what would you recommend to prevent the diffs from breaking?? i see you mention ballooning wheels....is there a method to prevent that?

Diff breakages; Avoid donutting on high grip surfaces.

Tyres ballooning; Add a strip of thick duct tape to the inside of the tyres will stop them ballooning.

To prevent the balloning, is directly related to driving style and setup. First the driving style.. When you see the balloning,,Let off just a touch. The setup requires thicker diff fluid and sway bars. Locking the center diff will also help the balloning. If you lock all there diff's wil cure the balloning but will kill your drivabilty and drivetrain parts will wear very fast so you will have to find a happy compromise with thick diff fluid, driving style, sway bars(you will have to fab your own, or order a set from me) and center locked diff. I any case the combination will differ for all, so experiment and see what works best..

Duct Tape works to stop the balloning but does not cure the unloading of the diff that causes breakage...

Good luck and have fun!!

the only setup i know of is to use diff fluid in the center front and rear,that way its less likly to balloon one tire. the fluid would need to be thick like 40 in the front 50 in the center and 30 in the rear( i like the front more of a possi traction).but if you go to the cen website they have recomendations on fluid and setup.

You guys also, need to remember that if this breakage is within the first 60days of ownership, then the warranty will get you new parts free and let CEN know there is an issue. Even if the 60days has past, contact CEN they MAY work with you..

Good Luck!!

just wanted to say you guys have helped me out a lot, with not only my problems, but with understanding how parts of the vehical work. i guess i am just not used to having this much of a complex RC, my first one was a smartech magic wheel.(1.5motor) so as you can tell thats a big difference.....nonetheless i still feel like that was a good car to start off with (cheap, espically since i was learning as i broke things)

The Real Dogman~ hey how much for them sway bars? Got any pictures? how well do they work?

i am also interested in the sway bars

The sway bars are $20 + shipping that will get you both the front and rear sets


Let me know and I will make a set for you guys..I will post a pic of the Beta version which does not have the ends bent parallel to the hinge pins You will get the final version with the Parallel Bend

Hey Dogman,

Sounds cool, can't wait to see the pics, of the beta's.

I might even be interested in a set! .46NitroAddict [>:]

Got 2 snapped outdrives to my name [:@] (thank god they sell them in pairs), snapped one about 3 tanks after locking centre diff and adding 10K to front and rear diffs, then another the next week [:'(] , snapped right rear both times - was driving it hard tho, tyre balloning to the MAX, racing mates on a hard packed dirt carpark both times, I can only imagine the forces on that outdrive shaft thats down to about 1/5th its original density thanks to the pin through it (there's gotta be a better setup than that). Trialling a thinner oil in the rear for now, starting at 1K and taking it in baby steps. Funny thing, both shafts are snapped in EXACTLY the same way, not a clean shear, almost a tear, had me thinking it may be a binding/meshing issue but it all checks out pretty good. I'm putting this down to 5HP [>:]

Hey Monaroman,

Sounds too me like you are just having 2 much fun!

No, seriously, sounds like you are on the right track. But may want to do the Nemesis diff upgrades! From what I have read they sound beefier where you are having your problems.
Check this [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5602683/anchors_5652396/mpage_2/anchor/tm.htm#]post #28 by TRD [/link]

Regards, .46NitroAddict [>:]

Nitro you tha man, that's exactly what the doctor ordered, don't need the bulkheads either. Ebay here I come!

Here's the beta sway bars fellas:

This was just after a simple green bath so dont mind the red rash,,,it's minor

These are the betas, the final version I'm working on has a bend in the ends so the pivot balls axis are parallel.. I will have pics and a new thread for the final version,, so let me know whatcha think and should I make several sets in different thickness' for you guys..

i dont think that will help i also broke the nemesis drive cups when the wheels ballooned. i dont think it matters which you have its just all about throttle controll.