A few people have noted that the GP Stik tends to be nose heavy. The manual says the engine should be mounted so the thrust washer is 4-3/4" [120mm] from the firewall. If you move the engine back slightly (leave enough room to route the fuel lines) it will help combat the nose heavy condition.

That black muffler lost you 300 rpm off your OS 46 AX. Try the plane with the original powerbox muffler?

if you can, I'd highly recommend over powering your stik. Then you can experiment with hovering, etc. I'm using a OS 95ax in my Great Planes 60 sized stik and it's the most fun one can have this side of the law. I recently stalled and crashed it by flying too low and slow. Thought about buying a different model but I just couldn't stand not having a stik, so I ordered a new fuse and it's all back together.

Here's a pic of the 95AX.

EDIT: there's also a known weak spot on both sides of the fuse just in front of the horizontal stab. You'll know it's fractured if there's any flex in the fuse just in front of the tail area. If you can, before gluing the vertical stab, take a couple popsicle sticks and reinforce the area inside the fuse.

I haven't done the test to see the rpm difference , but I should . Would I be any further
ahead if I had to add weight to the tail to rebalance with 2 more ozs. added to the nose ?

if you can, I'd highly recommend over powering your stik. Then you can experiment with hovering, etc. I'm using a OS 95ax in my Great Planes 60 sized stik and it's the most fun one can have this side of the law. I recently stalled and crashed it by flying too low and slow. Thought about buying a different model but I just couldn't stand not having a stik, so I ordered a new fuse and it's all back together.

Read more: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_98...#ixzz0toQu1VTM
DenverJayHawk,
I am with you I have put a ST 91 with a pitts style muffler on mine. I have yet to finish it though as I had to go back overseas to work. My question is how nose heavy did your end up with the OS on it??
Derrick

it ended up pretty nose heavy. I moved the elevator servo to the back of the fuse and placed the receiver battery as far back as possible. I also added tail wires to strengthen the vertical stab. Even with all these changes, I still needed 2 ounces of lead inside the fuse before gluing the vertical stab in place. On my rebuilt Stik, i placed the elevator servo even further back and only needed 1 ounce of lead. I like my models slightly tail heavy though, so I could have likely gotten away with less weight.

Great Plane! One of the funest planes out there. I do ALOTof high speed dives and came pretty close to ripping off the tail. Thats the only thing that has ever happened to mine. A little glue and its still flying.

I've been flying RC for 18 years and have never had a stik. I'm considering a GP 40 for our club fun flys (informal events that require full attention to maneuvers and not beautiful landings). I'll put an OS 50 SX ringed on it. I like the hi wing, sturdy gear, hi visibility colors. I understand the nose weight problem. I have a 60 Uproar with a Saito 100 on it, 15x6 prop. It was a kit and the folks on this site alerted me to the nose problem, so I moved everything back while building. Weighs 7lb 3oz. As a tail dragger it takes concentration to land in a gusty wind. In the air it's like a video game. If a maneuver goes bad, just hit reset and start over.

BTW: What size is the fuel tank on the 40 stik?

Also, regarding the hold down pin - the hold down dowel on my 15 year old Tiger 2 became slightly lose because the hole in the bulkhead had wallowed out. I wrapped a strip of carbon fiber with CA around the dowel and sanded smooth. It's tighter than Dicks' hatband.

Steve

I have seen different wing areas listed for the Big Stik 40 (700, 757, and 770 sq. in.). Anyone know the real wing area? Were different models manufactured?

Bill

There were different versions

The kit

The first ARF

The second ARF

The third ARF ? Was a redesign of the second ARF wing?