My 70mm spinner split on the first throttle up...
02-24-2009 | 12:57 AM
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From: Huntsville,
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My 70mm spinner split on the first throttle up...
I slowly throttled up to 1/4 throttle and the spinner split.. Please send me a replacement spinner (or two spinners if you think it will split again) for the 70 mm f/18... My order number is 527130.
02-24-2009 | 12:13 PM
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RE: My 70mm spinner split on the first throttle up...
I hate being a pain... But here's the standard cut and paste email I received about my broken spinner...
Dear Customer,
If you need more assistance on your technical question please visit our own support forum at www.rcdiscuss.com or you can call us on 626-968-9860 between 12 PM to 7 PM PST.
Regards,
NitroModels Inc. "Where high quality models are made affordable"
When you call the number you basically get a continuous busy signal....
WHEN IS MY REPLACEMENT SPINNER GOING TO SHOW UP?????? OR DO I NEED TO REPACK EVERYTHING AND DO A CHARGEBACK??????
Dear Customer,
If you need more assistance on your technical question please visit our own support forum at www.rcdiscuss.com or you can call us on 626-968-9860 between 12 PM to 7 PM PST.
Regards,
NitroModels Inc. "Where high quality models are made affordable"
When you call the number you basically get a continuous busy signal....
WHEN IS MY REPLACEMENT SPINNER GOING TO SHOW UP?????? OR DO I NEED TO REPACK EVERYTHING AND DO A CHARGEBACK??????
02-24-2009 | 04:20 PM
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RE: My 70mm spinner split on the first throttle up...
Talked to your guy on the phone and he didn't know what a spinner was. I need this spinner for the 70mm EDF that came with my F18. My order number again is:
Order Order Number: 527130
Here's a picture....
Order Order Number: 527130
Here's a picture....
02-24-2009 | 06:52 PM
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From: warner robins, GA
RE: My 70mm spinner split on the first throttle up...
The exact same thing happened when i ran my motor the first time. i ran it a couple of times without it and seem to do fine. later when i had the motor out, i put some crazy glue on it and its still holding together.
02-26-2009 | 12:50 PM
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RE: My 70mm spinner split on the first throttle up...
I hate posting the same thing in 5 different places, but I wasn't really sure how to get in touch for you.. Sorry about the duplicate posts.. Now that I know about PM's I'll use it... 
03-02-2009 | 08:19 PM
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From: warner robins, GA
RE: My 70mm spinner split on the first throttle up...
seems to be an issue with that spinner cone, mine split and damaged the fan and the motor has not worked at all. im wondering if the motor or esc is damaged. by the way, anybody know what the output voltage is from the esc to the motor is? this may help me figure out whats wrong.
03-02-2009 | 09:53 PM
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From: warner robins, GA
RE: My 70mm spinner split on the first throttle up...
here is what mine looks like. also, the motor will not run at all now. im not sure if its the motor or the esc.
03-02-2009 | 10:21 PM
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From: Poolesville, MD
RE: My 70mm spinner split on the first throttle up...
The spinner should be affixed to the fan by the person assembling the plane, so that it becomes hard to remove.
I've seen a few N.P. planes come with the spinner cones CA'd in, but this makes it impossible to remove the fan assembly... and of course people have complained about this practice
Your best bet is to ALWAYS use a microdot of CA at two places on the spinner to affix it only after you have properly balanced, broken in and otherwise check out the EDF. You only need the tip of a toothpick's worth of CA, no more. You may need to break the CA seal later!
This applies ot most EDF's of similiar design.
There are other albeit far more expensive EDF assemblies that go about all of this differently, but most low cost EDF motors use this same scheme.
e.g. it's identical to the T.H. Hyperflow, etc.
So ALWAYS make sure that you pre-flight your EDF properly.
These planes should always be gone over by someone with EDF experience before flying them.
I've seen a few N.P. planes come with the spinner cones CA'd in, but this makes it impossible to remove the fan assembly... and of course people have complained about this practice
Your best bet is to ALWAYS use a microdot of CA at two places on the spinner to affix it only after you have properly balanced, broken in and otherwise check out the EDF. You only need the tip of a toothpick's worth of CA, no more. You may need to break the CA seal later!
This applies ot most EDF's of similiar design.
There are other albeit far more expensive EDF assemblies that go about all of this differently, but most low cost EDF motors use this same scheme.
e.g. it's identical to the T.H. Hyperflow, etc.
So ALWAYS make sure that you pre-flight your EDF properly.
These planes should always be gone over by someone with EDF experience before flying them.
03-02-2009 | 10:54 PM
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From: warner robins, GA
RE: My 70mm spinner split on the first throttle up...
this happened the first time i ran the motor, i ran the motor to break it in and i never made it past half throttle. and i will use some ca when i get it going again. thanks.
03-03-2009 | 12:40 AM
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RE: My 70mm spinner split on the first throttle up...
Could we get serious for a moment... I've had two of these fans break apart at 1/4 throttle. The spinners both split on the first throttle up at 1/4 throttle. One Starmax fan was from Hobby Lobby, which by the way included an extra spinner and fan. I asked Hobby Lobby about the extra parts before I ran the fan and was told that the fans have been known to break up. Had the fan been run up at least once at the factory I'm fairly certain that it would have broken the same way it broke when I ran it. Also if the fan needs the delicate care that you speak of it would of been nice if these details would have been included in the form of a RED piece of paper included and taped to the fan. I guess it's just easier to call the plane a RTF and assume that the buyer is a mind reader.
03-03-2009 | 12:57 AM
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From: Poolesville, MD
RE: My 70mm spinner split on the first throttle up...
You may have burned the motor out.
If you can remove the fan, make sure that all three connectors are hooked up, and power on the TX.
Then with the throttle down, turn on the plane.
Do you hear the beeps coming from the plane?
If you do not then it could be that the throttle lead is disconnected, or that one of the motor power leads is off.
If you do hear the beeps, throttle it up slowly.
Does the fan begin to turn?
If not you may have a burned out wire in the motor, cause by the restriction of the fan.
If you can remove the fan, make sure that all three connectors are hooked up, and power on the TX.
Then with the throttle down, turn on the plane.
Do you hear the beeps coming from the plane?
If you do not then it could be that the throttle lead is disconnected, or that one of the motor power leads is off.
If you do hear the beeps, throttle it up slowly.
Does the fan begin to turn?
If not you may have a burned out wire in the motor, cause by the restriction of the fan.
03-03-2009 | 01:02 AM
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From: Poolesville, MD
RE: My 70mm spinner split on the first throttle up...
ORIGINAL: ftherrmann
Could we get serious for a moment...
Could we get serious for a moment...
What you say is all the more reason that EDF's are not for beginners.
They DO require more TLC than what many purchasers expect.
Proper, balancing, break in and testing is a must for good results even if this is not documented.
03-03-2009 | 01:10 AM
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RE: My 70mm spinner split on the first throttle up...
Ok.. I guess I'm not experienced enough.. The picture on the left is an image that was taken by a local newspaper of my BVM Maverick ducted fan. I flew it about 2 years and sold it. Maybe after another 39 years of flying I'll be experienced enough to read minds and understand that RTF really means "READY TO FAIL".
PS: Thanks for the link to the cheapo fan manual. I'll use their break-in procedure as soon as I fit the fan to the motor...
PS: Thanks for the link to the cheapo fan manual. I'll use their break-in procedure as soon as I fit the fan to the motor...
03-03-2009 | 12:06 PM
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From: Poolesville, MD
RE: My 70mm spinner split on the first throttle up...
All RTF's can be "ready to fail" if not handled properly, not to discount the very real problem you have!
I'm not aiming my comments at you, I just don't think these things should be sold to beginners.
Unfortunately beginners are often attracted by the looks and low costs.
I'm not aiming my comments at you, I just don't think these things should be sold to beginners.
Unfortunately beginners are often attracted by the looks and low costs.
03-03-2009 | 12:17 PM
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RE: My 70mm spinner split on the first throttle up...
ORIGINAL: opjose
All RTF's can be "ready to fail" if not handled properly, not to discount the very real problem you have!
I'm not aiming my comments at you, I just don't think these things should be sold to beginners.
Unfortunately beginners are often attracted by the looks and low costs.
All RTF's can be "ready to fail" if not handled properly, not to discount the very real problem you have!
I'm not aiming my comments at you, I just don't think these things should be sold to beginners.
Unfortunately beginners are often attracted by the looks and low costs.
I agree that these are not your classic .40 sized high wing trainers. I also agree with you that they should'nt be sold as trainers. On another subject.. It sounds like you've had some experience with the Starmax type models. How long should I expect the Nitro brushless motor and ESC to last? I've asked this queston a couple of times and so far no one has stepped up and answered my question...
03-03-2009 | 12:29 PM
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RE: My 70mm spinner split on the first throttle up...
The motor itself uses sealed bearings, so you'll get the typical lifespan out of it, as you would any normal brushless motor.
Meaning, MANY years.
However that is provided that
- The motor is not permitted to run too hot, which will degrade or ruin the magnets and epoxy.
- The motor is adecuately cooled
- The motor is not otherwise restricted by ingested debris, or a broken blade.
Many of these EDF's come with heat sinks. I'd recommend obtaining heat sinks for any motor that does not come with them installed.
( I just got done building a heat sink for a 3000 watt EDF for the Nitroplanes Starfire 101 ).
I've also added a tiny toothpick sized drop of oil to the bearings of brushless motors, but you have to add very little, lest the oild cause dirt to adhere to it.
As you've discovered the fan blades and sometimes the motor mounts can be very weak links in this chain.
As far as the ESC...
The given ESC has enough overhead for the supplied battery or batteries of identical voltage but greater capacity.
You should be fine with it for a long time as well ( it WILL outlast the plane! ).
One person here reported that he disabled the on board BEC on one of the F-18C's and managed to push 22v through the ESC w/o burning it out.
I wouldn't risk this, though it shows that the ESC has adecuate tolerance of overvoltages and higher heat...
The ESC should also last you for years again provided it is not shorted or permitted to get too hot.
The recommended 15 minute cool down period between flights, and not running the motor to full power on static tests, for longer than a few seconds, are both advisable for longevity.
I took one of the 14L motors & ESC out and put it on a heli after I crashed an EDF... it's been working great.
Meaning, MANY years.
However that is provided that
- The motor is not permitted to run too hot, which will degrade or ruin the magnets and epoxy.
- The motor is adecuately cooled
- The motor is not otherwise restricted by ingested debris, or a broken blade.
Many of these EDF's come with heat sinks. I'd recommend obtaining heat sinks for any motor that does not come with them installed.
( I just got done building a heat sink for a 3000 watt EDF for the Nitroplanes Starfire 101 ).
I've also added a tiny toothpick sized drop of oil to the bearings of brushless motors, but you have to add very little, lest the oild cause dirt to adhere to it.
As you've discovered the fan blades and sometimes the motor mounts can be very weak links in this chain.
As far as the ESC...
The given ESC has enough overhead for the supplied battery or batteries of identical voltage but greater capacity.
You should be fine with it for a long time as well ( it WILL outlast the plane! ).
One person here reported that he disabled the on board BEC on one of the F-18C's and managed to push 22v through the ESC w/o burning it out.
I wouldn't risk this, though it shows that the ESC has adecuate tolerance of overvoltages and higher heat...
The ESC should also last you for years again provided it is not shorted or permitted to get too hot.
The recommended 15 minute cool down period between flights, and not running the motor to full power on static tests, for longer than a few seconds, are both advisable for longevity.
I took one of the 14L motors & ESC out and put it on a heli after I crashed an EDF... it's been working great.
03-03-2009 | 06:31 PM
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RE: My 70mm spinner split on the first throttle up...
ORIGINAL: opjose
The motor itself uses sealed bearings, so you'll get the typical lifespan out of it, as you would any normal brushless motor.
Meaning, MANY years.
However that is provided that
- The motor is not permitted to run too hot, which will degrade or ruin the magnets and epoxy.
- The motor is adecuately cooled
- The motor is not otherwise restricted by ingested debris, or a broken blade.
Many of these EDF's come with heat sinks. I'd recommend obtaining heat sinks for any motor that does not come with them installed.
( I just got done building a heat sink for a 3000 watt EDF for the Nitroplanes Starfire 101 ).
I've also added a tiny toothpick sized drop of oil to the bearings of brushless motors, but you have to add very little, lest the oild cause dirt to adhere to it.
As you've discovered the fan blades and sometimes the motor mounts can be very weak links in this chain.
As far as the ESC...
The given ESC has enough overhead for the supplied battery or batteries of identical voltage but greater capacity.
You should be fine with it for a long time as well ( it WILL outlast the plane! ).
One person here reported that he disabled the on board BEC on one of the F-18C's and managed to push 22v through the ESC w/o burning it out.
I wouldn't risk this, though it shows that the ESC has adecuate tolerance of overvoltages and higher heat...
The ESC should also last you for years again provided it is not shorted or permitted to get too hot.
The recommended 15 minute cool down period between flights, and not running the motor to full power on static tests, for longer than a few seconds, are both advisable for longevity.
I took one of the 14L motors & AESAC and put it on a heli after I crashed an EDF... it's been working great.
The motor itself uses sealed bearings, so you'll get the typical lifespan out of it, as you would any normal brushless motor.
Meaning, MANY years.
However that is provided that
- The motor is not permitted to run too hot, which will degrade or ruin the magnets and epoxy.
- The motor is adecuately cooled
- The motor is not otherwise restricted by ingested debris, or a broken blade.
Many of these EDF's come with heat sinks. I'd recommend obtaining heat sinks for any motor that does not come with them installed.
( I just got done building a heat sink for a 3000 watt EDF for the Nitroplanes Starfire 101 ).
I've also added a tiny toothpick sized drop of oil to the bearings of brushless motors, but you have to add very little, lest the oild cause dirt to adhere to it.
As you've discovered the fan blades and sometimes the motor mounts can be very weak links in this chain.
As far as the ESC...
The given ESC has enough overhead for the supplied battery or batteries of identical voltage but greater capacity.
You should be fine with it for a long time as well ( it WILL outlast the plane! ).
One person here reported that he disabled the on board BEC on one of the F-18C's and managed to push 22v through the ESC w/o burning it out.
I wouldn't risk this, though it shows that the ESC has adecuate tolerance of overvoltages and higher heat...
The ESC should also last you for years again provided it is not shorted or permitted to get too hot.
The recommended 15 minute cool down period between flights, and not running the motor to full power on static tests, for longer than a few seconds, are both advisable for longevity.
I took one of the 14L motors & AESAC and put it on a heli after I crashed an EDF... it's been working great.
Glad to hear your good experience.. I replaced the fan and cone and "broke in" the fan first. The replacement also came with a new fan rotor adapter which was a tapered/compression design. I first installed and broke the fan in. The new shaft seems to be an improvement over the original 2 set screw shaft. It ran much smoother from the very start. After running the fan to 100% I then installed the cone and repeated the breakin. So far so good. I ran about 1800mah thru the fan and everything is still in one piece. At first I was a little hesisitant as about the new fan rotor adapter. It was a bit tough getting the shaft tight without having the fan slip while tighting the screw. I did a pretty strong pull test and the fan shaft seemed to stick. So far so good. I'm going to run another charge through the fan and call it ready to fly.. (actually ready to assemble)...
One other note.. In the Great Planes Hyperflow manual they show the cone as an option....
