My 70mm spinner split on the first throttle up...
#27
ORIGINAL: dieter1999
so, any suggestions as to what would make a good replacement motor?
so, any suggestions as to what would make a good replacement motor?
Are you sure that yours is damaged?
Have you tried connecting it to a different ESC, just to see if it will turn?
Also which plane do you have, just to clarify... as often we start talking about different planes on a single thread.
#28
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From: Huntsville,
AL
ORIGINAL: opjose
The GP tail cone is optional, but the nose cone is mandatory...
The GP tail cone is optional, but the nose cone is mandatory...
Nope.. I looked at it again... Here's a cut and paste...
❏ 4B. If you are installing the optional rotor cone, press it
onto the fan rotor as shown.
Then they talk about cutting away a portion of the aft cone for cooling....
#29
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From: warner robins, GA
ORIGINAL: opjose
Are you sure that yours is damaged?
Have you tried connecting it to a different ESC, just to see if it will turn?
Also which plane do you have, just to clarify... as often we start talking about different planes on a single thread.
ORIGINAL: dieter1999
so, any suggestions as to what would make a good replacement motor?
so, any suggestions as to what would make a good replacement motor?
Are you sure that yours is damaged?
Have you tried connecting it to a different ESC, just to see if it will turn?
Also which plane do you have, just to clarify... as often we start talking about different planes on a single thread.
#30
You CANNOT test the motor and ESC the way you are doing. This is not like a brushed motor where you can test continous DC current.
The ESC pulses the lines in sequence and in between it reads back current to determine the position of the motor.
At best you can check continuity between any two of the motor leads, ( there IS NO "Positive" or "Negative" ).
You should get low resistance between any two no matter how you combine them.
If you do it is likely that the motor is OK... you would then want to test it on another ESC.
Remember ALL THREE wires must be connected for the motor to work.
Did you know you could order a replacement from Nitroplanes here:
[link=http://www.nitroplanes.com/06a05-15.html]Replacement[/link]
You can also order an almost identical motor from here: [link=http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8138&Product_Name=Turnig y_2836_Brushless_EDF_Motor_3200kv]Other[/link]
The ESC pulses the lines in sequence and in between it reads back current to determine the position of the motor.
At best you can check continuity between any two of the motor leads, ( there IS NO "Positive" or "Negative" ).
You should get low resistance between any two no matter how you combine them.
If you do it is likely that the motor is OK... you would then want to test it on another ESC.
Remember ALL THREE wires must be connected for the motor to work.
Did you know you could order a replacement from Nitroplanes here:
[link=http://www.nitroplanes.com/06a05-15.html]Replacement[/link]
You can also order an almost identical motor from here: [link=http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8138&Product_Name=Turnig y_2836_Brushless_EDF_Motor_3200kv]Other[/link]
#31
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From: warner robins, GA
ORIGINAL: opjose
You may have burned the motor out.
If you can remove the fan, make sure that all three connectors are hooked up, and power on the TX.
Then with the throttle down, turn on the plane.
Do you hear the beeps coming from the plane?
If you do not then it could be that the throttle lead is disconnected, or that one of the motor power leads is off.
If you do hear the beeps, throttle it up slowly.
Does the fan begin to turn?
If not you may have a burned out wire in the motor, cause by the restriction of the fan.
You may have burned the motor out.
If you can remove the fan, make sure that all three connectors are hooked up, and power on the TX.
Then with the throttle down, turn on the plane.
Do you hear the beeps coming from the plane?
If you do not then it could be that the throttle lead is disconnected, or that one of the motor power leads is off.
If you do hear the beeps, throttle it up slowly.
Does the fan begin to turn?
If not you may have a burned out wire in the motor, cause by the restriction of the fan.
#32
What do you mean that "the motor turns"?
By hand? With power?
Did you get continuity accross ALL THREE motor leads?
I'm suspecting that you blew the ESC... not the motor.
By hand? With power?
Did you get continuity accross ALL THREE motor leads?
I'm suspecting that you blew the ESC... not the motor.
#33
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From: warner robins, GA
ORIGINAL: opjose
What do you mean that "the motor turns"?
By hand? With power?
Did you get continuity accross ALL THREE motor leads?
I'm suspecting that you blew the ESC... not the motor.
What do you mean that "the motor turns"?
By hand? With power?
Did you get continuity accross ALL THREE motor leads?
I'm suspecting that you blew the ESC... not the motor.
#34
Ok, this still suggests the ESC, so what about continuity accross all three leads.
In other words no matter which two you test, you should get continuity.
Try the three combinations and report back if you would.
In other words no matter which two you test, you should get continuity.
Try the three combinations and report back if you would.
#35
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From: warner robins, GA
ORIGINAL: opjose
Ok, this still suggests the ESC, so what about continuity accross all three leads.
In other words no matter which two you test, you should get continuity.
Try the three combinations and report back if you would.
Ok, this still suggests the ESC, so what about continuity accross all three leads.
In other words no matter which two you test, you should get continuity.
Try the three combinations and report back if you would.
#36
Yup.
If the motor had been shorted or burned out while running at least one combination would have resulted in no continuity.
If the motor had been shorted or burned out while running at least one combination would have resulted in no continuity.
#37
ORIGINAL: ftherrmann
Nope.. I looked at it again... Here's a cut and paste...
❏ 4B. If you are installing the optional rotor cone, press it
onto the fan rotor as shown.
Then they talk about cutting away a portion of the aft cone for cooling....
Nope.. I looked at it again... Here's a cut and paste...
❏ 4B. If you are installing the optional rotor cone, press it
onto the fan rotor as shown.
Then they talk about cutting away a portion of the aft cone for cooling....
I have several... I can GUARANTEE you that it is NOT optional.
The blunt front of the assembly degrades air flow by over 50%! if the cone is not installed.



